The purpose of this channel is to cover the Ford 92-97 OBS Trucks. General maintenance, upgrades, modifications, and servicing. Among other Ford vehicles.
Follow this link to view my email. www.youtube.com/@GarrettsOBSGarage/about
Hi Garret I’m currently doing this swap on my obs with a set of 05 axels. In the rear I’ve run into a few problems. There’s a stud in the rear shock mounts so I’m not sure how to tackle that in order to flip the shock mount around. And if cutting it off and welding one back on is my best option. Also the speed sensor is a different connector let me know if you have a good solution for those issues?
I have a '97 F-SuperDuty, 2WD, and it has a 161" wheelbase with a 12' bed. It has cabinets and toolboxes on it, but it only weighs 7550 per the registration. I've been looking for a 4WD, and figured I could cut down the bed and get a shorter driveshaft, but it always seems to be more work than I want to do. My property has a very steep driveway, which is why I've been wanting a 4WD. The problem with that era of trucks seems to be that the GVWR is not that high, 15000 is much lower than even an F-250 SuperDuty built today, which is over 20000 lbs. The OBS F-250s are only around 8800 GVWR, so even though I can find something with a diesel (I have the 7.5L 460ci), the GVWR doesn't gain me anything, it loses me in fact.🙄 I've always though my truck would be nicer if it was a bobtail. Mainly because 8'x12' bed is a problem driving around town. EDIT: FWIW, I only get 8 MPG on my truck also...<ouch> Have you had to replace the steering column? That's a major job in itself...in fact the entire ignition system was designed by a moron.
Your shitting me lol! Were both set up almost the same, except mine was a 94IDI I did a 96 PS swap on! Flat white w satin clear, rear line lock for parking brake. AWSOME trucks!!
@@GarrettsOBSGarage Thanks. I like the idea of having the engine on a stand to do my upgrades, but I don't like the idea of lifting the cab or dismantling the front end.
Wow, that's a clean 30 year old truck. Great score. This might be a good truck to paint the frame, undercarriage, and inside the bumpers with mastercoat. I wish my undercarriage was that clean and rust free. Good luck with whatever you decide to do with it. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Thanks Garrett
This truck is likely going to stay this way for a long time. Don’t wanna coat anything on it. It’ll never see any form of winter driving. It’s really amazing to see how nice and clean it is for its age!!! Over time, probably just fix the things that need fixed or repaired.
That thing looks pretty good. Way better than anything we have in the frozen north. Too bad the painter didn't have a bit more attention to detail. I noticed the driver side reverse light has a blotch of blue where they missed the masking (when they should have just popped out the tail lights.) Looks like they just masked the extended cab windows too. My second gen Ranger had one of those muffin cup heatshields on the radius arm bushing.
Yeah. Whoever painted it really lacked attention to detail. Other than that. It’s great! I’ve never seen a truck with the heat shield on the bushing. That was a first for me.
I couldn’t find your email but I’m in the middle of this on my e99. Did you end up needing an adjustable track bar because my axle is shifted towards the drivers side. Also, could I not just use the factory steel brake lines where they’re at and run the rubber lines on the rear side of the buckets?
There are no torque values given for the crossover. Reason being it is sold as a whole unit, crossover and intake, and there "should" be no need to remove it. With that being said, dismantling the crossover from the manifold is not recommended by the manufacturers by their lack of torque specifications for that part. We all know thats the best thing to do, and install the RTV, so I went by feel on the bolts, and being that there is no value stated, or printed, I can't really tell you an exact number. If you have an older, manual torque wrench, you could see how much torque it requires to remove the bolts and reinstall with a similar value.
I have to look into those shorter filters, I think NAPA has a listing for them as well since I'm doing a sort of fuel setup on a non-PSD where I'm contending with smaller frame rails.
U may have to do a pre pump solutions kit to go with it. My vacuum readings were too high. I disconnected the rear lines at the selector valve and ran lines into a container with diesel. Ran the truck and the vacuum dropped to acceptable ranges. The stock rear lines are too restrictive for the pump. They say the pre pump kit will fix this issue. Just ordered my pre pump kit today. unless you are eliminating your selector valve?
It does more than the flashing on an E4OD transmission. The LED has HIGHER not lower resistance. The ECU sends a small current through the circuit to ground thru the light circuit. This small current (milli-amps) tells the ECU the circuit is complete. Then When the brake lights are activated this becomes a positive voltage and tells the ECU the brakes are on and it unlocks the torque converter (in addition to the other functions)
The process is a complicated one for sure. And most people wouldn’t understand how it works. This is why people have issues with the multifunction switch cancelling cruise, because the transmission is extremely sensitive to the voltage. So, yes. You’re correct, but it’s a very in depth explanation that most wouldn’t understand. So I made this video so that it was understandable to everyone.
@@GarrettsOBSGarage Yes, I agree, and the E40.D is a complicated transmission.It's a great transmission when it's working though and it is extremely strong
Thank you much for the vid! How much did the install cost you? Or how much would you charge someone? I def don’t have the lift or knowhow for such a job. One dude quoted me $13k. At that price I should just buy a 05-07 diesel. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
He’s not far off as long as he’s replacing literally EVERYTHING. He was under 13 and that included a new rear diff, and a bunch of new parts and upgrades to the axles. Including install. Each truck will cost a different amount. Depending on what your donor needs. And what your truck needs. And what you want. This truck needed all new brakes, new rear diff, new ball joints and universals and unit bearings. All new steering and steering stabilizers. Blue top steering box. All new brake lines. It’s pretty much “new” from the frame down.
I have a 96 F350 CCLB and I just installed LED taillights and a third brake and everything works great until my left blinker! When I apply left blinker it cancels my cruise control and unlocks my torque converter! Whence I turn the blinker off, it goes back to normal! Any ideas on which wire I would need to add a resistor to, or if it is a different issue yet? Or should I just add resistors to all of them? Thanks!
I’m going to be doing this while the engine is still in the truck. Should the ones under the valve covers be done first? Or the bigger ones at each end first?
Appreciate this video, got to do a cab swap and got a rust free shell and was nervous about having to swap everything over but this made it not so scary
@@GarrettsOBSGarage yeah I got to pull the cab bc it’s rotted out, swap everything to the new cab, replace cab brackets on frame, core support etc. typical rust areas on these
@@Daks7.3garage for the cab swap? AC disconnect tools, torque wrench, impacts, larger metric sockets like 24 for the new bolts. An induction heater is useful.
I noticed you said in the beginning, you were talking about all the benefits of a 05-07 front suspension vs a 99-04 front suspension and one of the things you said was it makes it ride “a little bit better”. Does it not make not much of a difference in ride quality? I was just surprised to hear you say that. That would be the number one reason I would be interested in doing this, for the ride quality. But if it only makes it ride “a little bit better” then I’m not so sure I’m interested in doing all that work.
When I say a little bit better. It’s a totally different ride. This truck rides a little better than it did. Since it had a lot of suspension softening before. The other truck we did, the 2001 F250. It rides better. But it also had the absolute softest springs you could get in a 99-04 truck. It all depends on what suspension package your truck originally had. We bumped weight carrying up on both trucks and improved the ride on both trucks. These swaps aren’t only for the ride. It’s about the whole package, the brakes, the steering, the turning radius, the ease of maintenance. The ride is always going to be better, but guys “say” the 05+ doesn’t ride better than a U code 99-04 truck, but it does. But at the same time, some guys may not notice a difference if their original suspension package is VERY soft. If you’re in a truck that’s got a plow prep or F350, you’re absolutely going to notice a difference. And if you go older, into the OBS era, it’s night and day. So, when I say a little bit better, it’s better, it really is, but you can go so much father with it in the aftermarket to make it ride ALOT better.
Great video. Going to do my truck this summer. I’ve tried so many different brand leaf springs to make it ride better and I give up. Love that extended crows foot socket for the pitman arm nut! Never saw that before I’ll be definitely buying on of them this week!
Torque adapters have their uses. This is one of them! Lol Aftermarket springs always have an issue. They are never what they should be. The axle swap is a no brainer for me.
The amount of trucks on that trip was crazy. And the way they drove was worse! Stuff was falling off the sides of trucks. Stuff flying up from the roads.
