@@dutchless7794 KEN BROWN 12 Inch Shutter Exhaust Fan Wall Mounted,Aluminum with 1.65 Meters Power Cord Kit,High Speed 1800CFM,Vent fan for Commercial,Greenhouse,Attic,Shed,Shop. See summary notes for amazon link.
No issues. It would need to be at least 365° to melt the rubber. If it ever got that hot, The shed and many generator plastic components would have already melted.
Awesome job! Was wondering if you can provide where you purchased the bug screen kit used on the exhaust. Also the thimble that supports the 3” double wall vent pipe
That’s part of the 1975 AFX Jackie Stewart volcano lava sot car set that was prototyped, but never sold due to potential melting hazard. The Easy Bake Oven playset was canceled shortly after.
That was a real good catch. I watched the video closely and did see it was not negative. I just set up the unit and tested the same car and got the same results. I was stumped, when the car was sitting on the platform, but the pin was not in the hole, I got a negative reading, but when the pin was in the hole, I got a positive reading. A little thought and examination, I realize that this particular car used a non-OEM pin, which seems to be just a little bit longer than an OEM AFX pin. Long enough to actually be touching the top of the plate so it was pushing the plate down counteracting the car magnets trying to pull the plate up!
Did you anchor the generator down to the ground at all? I'm wondering if the vibration of the generator while running could make it walk/move around a bit resulting in the extended exhaust pipe trying to pull away from the wall that it's connected too.
Question..I use my Westinghouse same as yours , but for rv-ing, my 50 amp cable is tough to plug in because tire is in the way, I have to force it over the tire to plug it in..what do you use for a 50 amp plug
I have the same issue with my 50amp cord. I have to bend the cable around the wheel. I keep my 50amp cable in my house so if it cold outside when the generator is needed, the cable is pretty flexible. I thought about getting smaller diameter wheels but after running the generator for 6-8 days during power outages, there were no issues with the cable kinking.
great idea. Definitely making one for myself. Just got back into the hobby a couple years ago after being out since the mid 70s. having a ton of fun. good work
Thanks! Remember NOT to use the 3M fire caulk around the thimble because it’s not waterproof and will dissolve in the rain. Use regular outdoor caulk. Check out my zombie power box performance test for effectiveness of the shed..
Nice build, I would put some type of protection from the exhaust heat getting to the tank. My tank gets warmer than I like even with the guards in place.
I am assembling the material to complete my shed (similar to yours) and wanted to know if you could share the specs on the fiberglass wrap, pipe and exhaust enclosure because I like how you controlled the heat output.
check out the complete build inventory list and build hints and tips in the build video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fxRTMOkpyrM.html the exhaust build method and parts list can be found there.
Hand held jigsaw. Drill 1/2 inch hole near the corn er of your square mark off and then insert the jigsaw blade and cut on the line. I drilled 4 holds in the corners and then just ran the jigsaw from one corner to the next corner. Very easy to do.
Use a cut off wheel to trim off about an inch to an inch and a half off each thimble insert so that when they’re slid together, they but up against each other at the 2 inch distance.
Lol...yeah it may look that way. That's not my house, that's my shed in the very back of the yard. It may be confusing since everything is bigger in Texas. Thanks for checking out the video. The follow up shed performance video shows the exhaust exit in detail behind the shed. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-luAWRXmicG4.html
Fireproof foam, rubber flooring, kill mat, radiant barrier foam insulation, and caulking every little area. Very detailed. That giant 6” un insulated plastic hole for cables though. Hmmm.
Yup, I was not aiming for a watertight soundproof box. Sound reduction and critter blocking are two key goals. Note that the 6" hole is a blast door that slides up and down so it is bug proof when closed which is a key goal of the build. No impact on sound when the generator is not running. Yes, when the shed is running the door will have a slight opening to account for the cable but in most cases, I am running the shed in wintertime when bugs are dormant. Small critters won't enter with the generator running. As for 6" of no foam insulation, it does not have much on the sound. Check out the Shed Performance video for details on sound impact. studio.ru-vid.comluAWRXmicG4/edit
The only thing that I didn't like was the location, I noticed you really have that exhaust pointed right close to the corner of the house and the fence. The sound must really reverberate in that corner. I noticed you didn't show us how it sounded when you were done.
For performance results, watch this follow up: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-luAWRXmicG4.html The location is in the furthest corner for my and my 3 neighbors' yards. The "house" that you are referring to is my shed which acts like a giant muffler by having the sound be absorbed by the fence ally way behind the shed.
@akoporc thank you for the quick response, I didn't realize you had a space behind the shed. It looked from this video that it was a pretty closed corner. Not as bad as I thought.
@akoporc if you have natural gas that's acceptable you might want to consider running a gas line to it. That way you don't have to worry about getting the propane tank filled.
Why use all that Culk to seal small seems? When the box itself isn't a sealed box. The lid, the doors, etc not of that is water sealed and can't be for functional reasons
I agree that the shed is not perfectly “airtight” sealed. The goal was to seal up lower points of entry so that animals, rodents large insects or ants would have a much harder time getting into the shed when snooping around the shed from the ground level. When I test ran the generator in June to charge the battery, and just keep things limber, the only thing in the shed were a few spiders and their victims. Trying to keep out chewing critters or nesting, bees or wasps are the top priority.
Extending the exhaust pipe, a few feet at the same diameter, should not create back pressure. My understanding is that when you use much longer pipe and route it vertically with 90 degree angle fitting and/or using a muffler at the end of any exhaust extension, that could change the back pressure and engine tuning.
One of the best generator sheds I've seen on RU-vid and an excellent video. The only thing I would have liked to see is the generator running to hear the sound difference with the lid and doors open and shut
Check out the Zombie Power Box performance test video. It has lots of sound test data! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-luAWRXmicG4.html
I live in Houston Texas and I built this shed. it is june 10th 2023 the temperature right now is a warm 86° I have tried and tried to get the temperature below 104 and I can't do it when I'm running the generator. How do you have your generator in a shed and control the temperature so that it doesn't ruin your machine? please let me know
104 degrees should be well within the temperature tolerance of your generator's engine and the electrical generator. 120 is the upper limit of heat where you can damage the piston rings and/or the generator bearings/internals. That is why I installed the temp safety switch (see comments below for details) Ensure that you wrapped the exhaust extension with heat wrap tape. In my performance test video, the temperature of the engine exhaust vent with the heat gun measured over 300 degrees with the tape on. Also, make sure that you have the generator power switch on so the exhaust fan is running and cycling air thru the shed box (I know, Captain Obvious stuff but if your just testing shed temp and not actually using any tools, appliances during your test, you may have forgot to activate the power switch. I know, because I did this exact thing!) Another Houstonian commented below that they used a larger exhaust fan, that might help. My shed is in the shade. If yours is in direct sunlight, close the shed and don't run the generator. See how hot your shed gets when sitting in the sun and closed. My guess is that the shed will be hotter than the outside temp. That should be your baseline and then check the temp when the generator is running with the shed closed. Try running the generator in the shed with the lid or the doors partially open and see if you get the 104 temperature reading to drop. I would open the lid and the doors all the way and put using your same temperature measuring tool/method and see what the temp rating is just to get a baseline. Remember, you need to measure the temperature of the air in the shed, not the generator. The generator will be hotter than the outside temperature due to it creating its own heat. If your shed/generator runs at a stable 104 degrees, you should be good to go. If the temperature outside is in the 90s and your shed is in full sun, you may need to run it with the lid or doors ajar.
@@akoporc correct 104 should be okay but it's running in the shed about 118. when your shed is all closed up and you ran it for 5 hours what's the temperature inside your shed?
You can quiet it further by directing the sound to the ground. 4 pieces of plywood tee-pee style... leaving a 3 inch gap for exhaust. 1 piece of plywood atop the tee-pee... basically soundwaves travel out, the tee-pee allows sound waves to bounce off the plywood and is absorbed into the ground.
Remember NOT to use the 3m fireproof calk. Is is not water resistant and will dissolve in the rain. Use regular outdoor calk to seal the timbal around the shed wall.
I know the interior insulation is popular but doesn’t it trap heat. Here in Florida hurricanes hit in the hot steamy months and extra heat may not be good.
Interesting. I too am back in hobby after a 55 year break. Since, I grew up without magnets, I have been taking the traction magnets out most of the time. Not all. What agreat way to see how the magnets are paired. Great stuff here. - I kept my cars too! All this time. Ran em a couple of times on my kids Tyco layout, but that was it. Having a blast.
Neat looking job. My only comment is on your fan. I did a similar project for a 5kw Honda generator. I started with a 12" fan and migrated to a 16" AC Infinity fan (16S) that pumps 3000 cfm. You want to keep the inside temp to 10-15F above ambient. You want that propane tank outside the compartment. Also consider a bimetallic normally open switch inside the compartment (cheap on Ebay0 In my case I got one for 50C and connected it to the low oil level circuit and it shuts off the generator if the fan fails.
Very good points that were also shared by other folks in the comments. I added a 120° cut off switch to the low oil sensor circuit. I also bought a 40 pound tank and propane line extension. That’ll allow me to run the generator on natural gas with the tank outside the shed and I could run the line through the blast gate so I don’t have to cut additional holes in the shed. As for the fan, I’ll keep that in mind. So far, our power failures have been in the cold of winter and ice storms and not in the hot summer months. Thanks for taking time to comment!
I made my shed out of Hardy board. With a 10k watt generator. It runs 68 db right next to the front and 75 db next to the vents. Measured with my phone though.
I used a 4ft long aluminum ruler and laid it on the mat and kneeled on it. It made a great guide for the box cutter razor. It took a few passes to cut thru and the cur was clean and straight. I am sure a tablesaw would slice right through it with a fine blade, but it may be a bit messy with the rubber dust.
I just recently added a temperature, cut off switch to the generator to shut down if the temperature in the shed gets above 120°. Check out my comment from a few days ago.
Modified the build by adding a 120 degree temp switch into the low oil cutoff circuit. This will provide a safety should the exhaust fan fail, or temperatures rise in the shed for some other unknown reason. This will ensure that the generator won't keep running if temperatures approach risk to the propane tank and/or the generator and engine component failure. How To: I simply cut the low oil sensor wire and added a molex connector to each piece of wire. Then made a harness from the temp switch with one ground wire to the engine block and one wire that is split into two with a molex connector on each end. These plug into the original low oil sensor wire. Part number is: www.amazon.com/dp/B07L95FMMG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I tested the harness first on the bench with voltmeter and then on the generator. I just plugged a heat gun into the generator and started it up. Then I fanned the temp switch a bit and sure enough, the generator shut down. I waited a few minutes and the generator started back up without an issue and I repeated the test. Same result. All Good. Using Molex connectors is optional as it allows for removing the temp switch from the oil cut off circuit very quickly if needing to debug engine that does not run. Also makes swapping out a new temp switch very easy as it can be done from the workbench instead of on your knees in the shed. YT has many videos on how to install molex connectors and the tools you need. Amazon has lots of Molex connector kits. You could just crimp your connections if you don't want to go the Molex route. Also added 40lb propane tank with a 12-foot propane hose extension so that propane tank can be placed outside the shed on very hot days.
During the recent freeze in Austin, TX, we were without power for 3.5 days and nights. The generator worked perfectly. Several neighbors came over to see it and get the specs for how to build it.
The muffler adaptor was purchased from amazon and a metal lathe was used to mill the inside diameter it to fit my muffler 'nipple'. The adaptor fits some generator manufacture mufflers without modification. Details can be found in the first build video details. Here is the link to the muffler adaptor: www.amazon.com/dp/B07HGLQSDJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details The original video also has the entire build recipe in the comments.
Interesting, with my setup (similar to yours) but uninsulated I get about 75-80db (reading with an android app on my cell phone) in my bedroom, of course my genny sits right outside the bedroom wall and I just have cheap single pane windows, that's dang near hearing protection level at work, but it humms me to sleep and I sleep good with it running. as far as temps go I believe it read like 93 degrees with the shed closed, I figured adding insulation would just trap the heat inside and found by searching the net the melting point on the material the sheds are made of is about 200 degrees anyway. I do have a temp alarm with light and siren on mine set to go off at 110 though just to be safe and have fire extinguishers all around the house. I usually run mine with the shed open anyway and haven't had a problem yet and just to be safe I always run mine with the propane tanks outside the shed!
