Building and flying model aircraft is my passion. Building from scratch or assembling an ARF (almost ready to fly) airplane, I love the challenge of defying the Gods of Gravity. Join me and I will show you tips for building, flying, working with RC equipment, and maybe an occasional review.
I really like the racks but it also depends on your ceiling height and how tall you are. For the height l, also need to take into account how far the landing gear hangs down. I don’t want to be hitting my head all the time on racks or landing gear. I suppose I could always turn the nose of the plane towards the wall where I would not walk. Well done. I will take some measurements and build a few.
Thanks for the video DAN I found your videos inspire me to get back into RC airplanes. I’ve been away for a while hopefully this summer I can get back into it. And I build planes not ARFs thanks again and keep the videos coming.
Congrats Dan nice job, Ive had the plans printed off so you know whats going to happen next don't you! anyway what receiver did you end up using with your neat tandem X20 tx.
I believe I used an X8R which is the older version protocol accst Rx I bought to use with a Horus 10 radio a few years back. It’s a little confusing all of the options available with these FrSky radios. The guys at Aloft Hobbies told me for IC gassers the best protection for noise is the Archer line of Rxs that use Access protocol. However I have read many forums where guys are using the ACCST for long time now and no problems with ignition noise. With a tandem radio you also have the option of duel band RXs that cost a little more but transmit on two totally different bands at once making better redundancy. Probably going to have a show and tell about these radios in the future. I really like them.
So true. I try and mention in my videos to have ventilation and even a fan that blows across your work table. Keep those fumes away from your nose and eyes and vent out your shop on occasion.
I think bought that one in 2010ish. It is the original canvas with grommets for ventilation. I loved the whole Tilley built for sailing story. You are correct, the newer versions seem to be made with lighter weight materials. I have been trying other brands like Shelta whichbis more of a sun hat for people that want a baseball hat firm bill out front. They work well too and pretty well built.
Hi Dan , interesting build video, I use some of your techniques when I build from plans , just one question, when you lay the ribs out , how do you keep the wing level and true as I didn't notice you using a jig to assist you when laying out the ribs ? anyway thanks good building from Tony from Bedfordshire, England,
On this particular plan the wing is flat with no dihiedral at all so level is easy as long as the table is flat. The ribs are perpendicular to the table with help from magnet each side of the rib. Once the top spar is dropped in it is easy to lock them in with the glue nice and solid.
Have you ever tried coreless servos? They usually last twice as long because they don't corrode as badly. Checkout their hs7235mh servos. They have the best price for the kind if servo you get. I've also seen some really good kst servos that would satisfy your mini servo needs. John Salt just used them in the recent fenestron heli he recently built.
We are trying to get there. Both Mark and I have been really busy as we are starting to come into flying season here. I'm building racks and shelves in my trailer for hauling planes to the field. They are too large to throw in the truck without risking some hangar rash damage. I will do a trailer tour once that's complete. But otherwise we should be starting them hopefully soon.
I have 4 of the Futaba FM72 AFS active flight stabilization Dual Conversion PAR 2S receivers and a handful of Hitec Supreme Super slim receivers plus a bunch of radios. Might actually fly with them again some day.
72 MHz is still completely usable. I think the main reason I have switched to 2.4Ghz is most of my planes are now gas with either magneto or solid state ignition, and they handle the noise from the spark plug so much better. Not bullet proof, but pretty close. And now with everyone switched over to 2.4, you probably don't have to worry about others turning onto your 72Mhz channels. So 2.4 is a win/win for our hobby.
I understand completely! I brought out my planes of old and revamped all the technology as well!. Was over 20 yrs. for some of them. I have a box full of the receivers you're showing. Was actually pretty good equipment even then. That is a large part of the reason I still have the planes. LOL Enjoy my friend.
The thing that kind of cracks me up is all of those 72mhz are still legal to use, and now with 2.4 being the radios everyone is using it’s almost like everyone has their own private frequency with no competition. Until of course someone fires up a CB radio with an amp on it. Does anyone use CBs anymore?
I had a couple of friends that had those Kraft radios and loved them. Another one had an Ace radio that kind of looked like them as well. I had several old Futaba gold boxes. If they had a module on the back they could be easily up graded to the narrow band FM just by switching the module and then buying a Hitec RX.
I took a pause for 30 + years mainly because I had a young family, but also I had an AM radio, and it was phased out in favor of new technology, and I could not afford a new radio. Also, we had board which when we were going to turn on our radio we had to put a clip on the board showing, which radio channel was being turned on. The other big thing I think we overlook today is the fact that we need one transmitter for hundreds of planes.
Oh yes. I had a different transmitter for each plane because one had its own trim settings and Normal/Reverse. You could use a different plane with the same transmitter but had to be sharp about those things. I always had the cheaper transmitters because of that. Thanks for the reminder of that.
Dan, thanks for the trip down memory lane. My first R/C plane had a hobby lobby AM 3 channel...way back in the 1970's. The new gear is such a quantum leap over the old school gear it's hard to even compare the two!
I completely forgot about that!!! How many times did you get off the ground and realize that you forgot, to extend that big ol aerial antennae? Crazy!!! In contrast, my Fr Sky radio has no antennae on it. It's in the handle and inside the case so that feels a little naked. They do offer a short aerial you can add, to make yourself feel better, but I don't see a notable change in the signal strength to use it. Wow, thanks for that reminder.
loved it.. I also have a very old airplane my very first freeflight airplane back which I build back in 1995 the fuselage is gone but I have its wing in a perfect condition.
You can build it!!! I hope you do. That wing deserves to fly again. It's kind of a funny trend, guys that have been around in the hobby, tend to have extra wings in their inventory. For some reason the fuses always bear the brunt of the damage, in wrecks and often leave a wing behind. And we always have that intent to build a new fuse for it... a common oddity in modelers.
@@Capgains7777 it was a mercury magna" free flight model.. this was my very first model my father purchased the kit with a Mills diesel engine.. I am so thankful to my father for all he did for me.. he passed away in 2021.
I'm a big fan of using MP JET fueling valve. Works similarly to the Sulivan valve you had, but it's all metal, so it lasts. Though I am unsure of its availability in the States. Edit: DuBro Kwik-Fill Fueling Valve looks similar
Dubro has one that looks just like that called a Quik Fill, and I and I have used them in the past on glow applications. The only problem I had was that the o rings inside would wear out after a while and the fuel would leak down the side of the plane, and would also allow air bubbles into the line to the carb. Now I have never tried the version made for gasoline so maybe it is better. Glow fuel can be very hard on some parts. This method with the fuel dot is a little more simple with less moving parts and with the walbro pumped carb on gas engines I don’t have to worry about flooding the carb out. But I will order one to see if they have gotten better in design. 👍
@@Capgains7777 Had the exact same problem with glow fuel, but it seems they remedied this issue in the version for gas. I've been using them now for over 10 years without any problems. Without a doubt, your method is proven and the most cost-effective ;)
I guess I'm just old because I'm still using Elmers Glue for my models. No smell, no BS. And my models haven't fallen apart yet. And I'm not concerned about stabbing myself to death with push pins. Currently working on a Guillows Space Shuttle. I couldn't make it all the way through your video because I think you've been sniffing too much of that glue you're using. I think you're all in too big of a hurry to get it done. I always thought that model building was about the trip, not the destination. If I wanted to get it done that fast I would just pay someone to make it for me. That "Beaver Nation" shirt says it all.
The beauty is: you have many ways to carry out how you do things with this hobby. I know a lot of people that don’t use CA, and prefer use Elmer’s or wood glue and pins. So more power to ya my friend!!!!! Hope you build your shuttle straight and it flies right. Which rhymes with Oregon State!!! Fight fight fight.
Honestly, I don’t feel that the struts are functional necessity for structure to to this plane. But… the Decathlon looks wrong without the struts. The design was poor so I improvised a way that the struts could be installed and remain attached to the wing while in storage. There were actually some additional strut braces that had no instructions as to how to mount them or if there were hard points in the wing to mount them too. The instructions were poor at best. So it is what it is, I guess.
Hey Dan, I commented on one of your other videos about your Ultra Stick that flew like a dog (I thought it was a weight/power problem). Then I saw your friend's "Rebel" fly very nicely with a magneto-based engine... so what the heck do I know?! Anyway, I've built a number of planes, but they've all been kits (no ARFs!). I've always wondered about building one from scratch- so I'm going to watch your video series here and make a determination from there. Thanks for posting the video, I appreciate it (maybe more than your mom does!). Floyd-
The Rebel is pretty light despite the dimensions being almost identical to the Ultra Stick ARF. But it was pretty well talked about amongst modelers that this ARF was extraordinarily heavy. So much so that the next version Hangar 9 made was called the Ultra Stick 120 Lite, admitting the first version was over weight. I took mine out for a flight just yesterday and it is everything I wanted in a kick around stick, powerful and aerobatic. Hope you like the series. My focus is to show that building isn’t hard and can be done with plans, kits, even hybrids such as a fiberglass fuse that you build the wing and feathers for. Great to hear from you again Sir.
@@Capgains7777 Interesting that I just got to your "Engine Changeup" hours later today- where you took my advice 3 years before I even knew who you were. Thanks again for the videos, giving me the confidence to build my own from scratch (should I decide to!) ...and for responding to my comments.
Dan, what I think I'm seeing with the plane in this video is a lot of excessive weight because of the engine you're using. There's a magneto, requiring the heavy flywheel and coil. You might think about checking its total weight compared to a RCGF 31cc Twin w/ CDI ignition, which is 927 grams. The ignition battery would be mounted inside the plane (helping with your CoG) and you could eliminate the tail weights. The twin is over 3 HP. That may help correct the problems you describe in this video. I think the CDI (capacitive discharge ignition) would be lighter than the magneto single-cylinder engine, and provide you with more power. which you seem to need. Additionally, some of its weight (the ignition battery) could be placed within the aircraft to help with the balance. Besides, a twin cylinder engine is a whole lot more fun to look at than a weed-eater motor- sounds better too! I don't know... I'm just suggesting that might be an avenue to check out. Thank for taking the time to make this video. Good luck! www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832638975449.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt
Good idea not painting black under the star and bars decal. I like callie-graphics products plus Callie is really friendly with questions and requests. I asked for a custom cockpit panel decal and she just wanted dimensions and an image of what I was looking for.
It’s pretty amazing the materials she has that aren’t on the website. She came up with some really cool looking decals for Mark’s new Fly Baby. Great outfit.
Dan, Love your videos, keep up the great work! I am going to try the magnets on my next build. Quick question, did you CA glue the metal pieces on to the magnets to keep the from sliding around? Thanks for your time!
Hey Josh!!! On the first 100 I bought I did glue the plates to the magnets. The only bad thing was that if the glue set and the plate one side was not perfectly aligned the magnet might have a lean to it. Or worse if one plate set slightly twisted so they don’t line up the magnet is useless as the plates aren’t parallel so it will rock. On the next 100 I didn’t use CA and find that it gives more flexibility of use. Sometimes I like to lean them to force a spar to stay in place with tension. I’ve seen some modelers use the magnet with no plates for a lesser strength fence to hold a part in place to lock a contour with the magnets closer together. So the short answer is, if I needed more magnets I wouldn’t glue them to the plates. I think you stand more of a chance of damaging a few of them. The only annoyance is when I store them they all glaum together in the box and plates slide around and pop off. Not a big deal it’s just part of setup.
You have a TF Mentor in kit form. That is rare. Still looking for one myself. The PlanesGoneBy guy still hasn't added that TF kit yet. I like RC shop tours.
I can’t agree more. The whole world of model airplane kits has turned upside down. I keep seeing statements of Sig being sold and moving, and coming back in 2024. Well here we are.
I misread, the site says they bringing new products to market in 2023. Come and gone. Looks like they are planning to supply ARFs instead kits and wood going forward. 😔
I have the same plane with the one piece wing. It's one of very few Models that I did not build. I got it dirt cheap and it needs to be stripped and re-covered. I'll probably use Sig Koveral. I have an OS 1.20 Gemini flat twin or a Gemini 1.60 ... don't know which engine I will use. I hope i'm not in for a surprise when I get the covering off but I'm a builder so I can cope.
That sounds like a great project. You will probably be fine once you start uncovering. There is a lot of “box” construction with raised spars to create the cloth on stick look. Either of those engines will be fine for power but the boxer valve covers on the 1.6 might add a nice scale effect.
@@Capgains7777 Thank you for taking the trouble to reply. I really appreciate it. Both of the flat twins run very well on no nitro fuel so I can save some money and mix my own fuel. I've been doing that for many years with engines that will tolerate no nitro. And yes, that 1.60 is a mighty pretty engine.
The covering is 21st Century film which is more like a cloth from Coverite. The blue is Rustoleum spray can. The black stripe is vinyl 1/8” automotive pin stripe. It was pretty easy to form the radius turns by stretching it gently around the star bursts. The star bursts were masked off with tape and paper first, then Rustoleum. Just for peace of mind I traced all of the pinstripe with a brushed on coat of lacquer hoping it would help hold the stripe down. So far so good on this one but I have had failures on other jobs I have done, I’m not sure the lacquer helps if the stretch is too sharp.
@@Capgains7777 sorry to say no. He also made model railroad buildings and other stuff. He was in business with one of our classmates and when he passed he stopped producing pieces.
Oh yes, Bonnie is also getting worked on. Also been a while since she was up however not nearly as long. It’s really having all of my fleet in the shop so I can move from plane to plane much easier to work on them instead of in a storage unit.
Kinda funny but when I cut this stack out I actually counted the ribs incorrectly and had two extra ribs after assembly was done. So those two ribs were floating around the shop for quite some time before I used them in a wing mock up for CA glue video I made later on. I do know a lot of modelers that will make a template of the ribs just in case usually with 1/16 ply. I don’t know though. I guess my philosophy about airplanes is, there are so many planes and so little time. I rarely will build the same plane twice. My biggest exception was when I was involved in racing and often had 2 or 3 backup planes and I had templates for every part of that plane. My second exception is the F4U Corsair. I have had a 40, 60, and a foamy, and have a Meister Scale 100” under construction and a Flite Test master kit on the shelf. But for the most part once I finish a plane I will be moving on to another. So little time…
Actually I liked the curling of the transfer paper because it meant it was letting go of the sticker. Sometimes it took a little longer, but the main thing was that even if it pulled up on the sticker a little, it was still aligned and just needed to be pushed down on the surface to be permanent.
I just used that dust collector a few weeks ago when I was sanding down some fiberglass I had just put on a set of floats. The collector is nothing more than a five sided box with the open side made to fit a furnace intake filter cartridge and a bathroom vent fan passing through one of the other sides to create the vacuum through the filter box. You can determine how big the box is by picking the filter size. Go to the local hardware store and find a common size. It works very well.
@Capgains7777 oh yeah. I was sanding on a airplane a few weeks ago. I left the barn and came back 5 minutes later and you could still see balsa flying in the air!
