I hade the same table saw. Fine for general work but it has too many adjustments that can get out if wak. I replaced the plastic guides on the sliding table with long pieces of Jatoba (Brazilian Cherry). Mostly l run a thin kerf 7-1/4/184mm blade. I rarely cut anything over 3/4/19mm. I like the idea of each turn of the elevating crank raises the blade the same amount. You do not need a largeshop todo good work. Chris on Clickspring is basically working in a large closet. Although he does all his heat treat and casting work outside.
One of the challenges that I had with seizing the side stay to a dead eye was that the dead eyes need to be aligned with each other, ie, the same distance apart from the matching deadeye, and on a horizontal line with the others. My first boat, they were all over the place. It occurred to me that, when the line trapped by the loop just starts being pulled underneath the wrapped lines, the seizing isn't very tight yet. At that pont, the wrapping is secure and won't come undone; but I can move the lines to either raise or lower the deadeye. I tried this, it worked. In fact, I found that I could seize the line without the deadeye in place, leaving a very large loop, and then put the deadeye into the loop. That saved me from the fiddly part of stopping the deadeye from falling to the floor whilst I was starting the loop.
This video gave me all the anatomy I have not been able to find the names for online! Thank you. Deadeyes are gorgeous, don’t know why they are used, trying to figure it out
You have opened my eyes to some very useful ideas! A great example for those of us who can’t afford all the fancy modeling tools. Do I detect a bit of a Dutch accent?
Someone has to teach this 'bosun' how ropes should be coiled - that one is going to tangle and snag on every block it passes through! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2333Ff8GJDw.html
When I was in Navy Radioman school in 1972, I bought a model of the USS Constitution and worked entire weekends painting and putting it together. I had completed everything and was worried how to do the rigging. I guess fortunately I had to stop. I graduated before I figured out how to do it. So I left it for someone else to complete everything. Hope someone did.
Do you have any videos of the Hahn method of framing a model upsid down? i am building the Bounty from Harold Hahn's plans and need to see how this is done. thank you email: lesterpalifka@gmail.com
Oh dear, she's wrong from the very beginning!! Thankfully the evidence is right there to support me. Look at the other lines, they ALL come down to the forward side of the pin, she'd be correct on the opposite side of the ship as the left side would be the forward side. Reason? Because you don't want the line crossing the front of the pin, it gets in the way of doing the figure of eight and hanging the coil. And you got it wrong too! You did your figure of 8 the wrong way around the pin AND you're coiling is the wrong direction, Clockwise with right hand rope! It goes clockwise around the top of the pin with right hand layed rope. I'm going to have to stop watching model makers videos, it doesn't help my blood pressure. Me? 45 years rigging and sailing square riggers around the world.
LEFT TO RIGHT, WHAT ON EARTH ARE YOU DOING?? Just kidding. Looks super cool. I'm wanting to incorporate this in a full size sailboat I'm building, as well as putting it in a model boat someday.
