Correct! The test port on the relief is getting water off the high side so it's water source is before #1 check. I don't usually use it testing though. I hook up to 1,3,4.
Do you think after water pressure didn’t help getting the check out, opening the #2TC would have helped with prying? I’ve had some 375s that were near impossible to get out. Have never worked on a big Apollo. I think that is where the engineers that design BFs need to get better as far as repairing once they have been in service a while. Did it pass the test after first repair attempt? I hate the ones that take multiple attempts. As always, thanks for the time you put in for the vids.
Do you have any issue with the soft floor? Looking to add shelves to mine, but not sure if we’ll go with a plywood floor or a polypropylene floor as I’m worried the polypropylene wouldn’t hold up to the heavy load that will be on the shelves
This is the worst backflow valve assembly ever. If check 1 or 2 is the point of failure you need to disassemble the relief valve to get to the checks. If the relief was not an issue before the repair it likely will be an issue when the assembly is placed back in service.
Absolutely right. I tell my guys if it's a small drip to just leave it until we either replace it or have a complete kit because I know it's going to be worse once you open it.
There's a few places online. Like backflowsupplyusa and testguage. You can try a crescent wrench but sometimes they are in there really tight and you end up braking the little nubs off. Then it's time to carefully chisel it out
I am following your very helpful video to repair mine. I am at 1:40 time point in your video, but can't go beyond that. The valve stem isn't coming out even after turning and pulling with a wrench. Any suggestion? Spray WD40?
I would say make sure you can spin it as it might be hung up on the threads. In a not so graceful way. turn the water on and see if It will pop out. It's outside so shouldn't make too much of a mess. But I'd be prepared to replace the whole thing in case it doesn't go back together
Their instruction say that the system comes with a check valve and that another one is not needed, just connect system to exit pipe with a 1 1/2 inch coupling . Did you decide to skip installing their check valve or this model didn't have one included?
I left their in. It's needed for when the backup kicks on. The white one is a quiet check so no banging when it closes. I also like if you need to service anything there are unions
If you're mostly using bins, why have a full backing on the shelves? Why not a lip in the back too. Seems like you could save some weight, prolly negligent though.
It helps from stuff falling behind as I do put some parts in there not in bins like drop cloths. But also adds a lot of rigidity. But I'm sure no back would work well too
What is the order ( from top to bottom) of the different metal washers and how are they oriented? The large one has a concavity to it, and the smaller one as a lip.
i take it you have the valve with the brass stem. It goes smaller round rubber gasket, concaved washer with the edges going up, larger rubber gasket, then the flat washer. hope that helps.
This is a follow up, I did order two of those pumps, and they both came damaged so I ended up sending them back. Not only because they were damaged, but, there were proprietary components that I didn't want to try and source later down the road.
I'm averaging $1400 all in. Depends a lot on permit pricing and if you have to buy the meter from the village. One village charges $900 for a meter which is ridiculous
I'm replumbing an old utility sink. I have to ask why are there no shutoffs on the supplies going to the faucets? I see yours is like that too. I get there are shutoffs on the washer supply lines, but it seems like they would be helpful above the faucets also.
It's not a bad idea to put valves in. But utility sinks like this tend to be piped directly instead of having supply lines like a normal faucet or a washer.
Thanks for the video. Just a suggestion. Try commenting thru the video about what you are doing and what the parts are you are installing rather than just music playing. It would be a little more informative. I need to do this to mine now.
I have a Watchdog model that I'm thinking is 25 to 30 years old, replacing it with the big combo WiFi. Around 2015 I got rid of the original battery that had come with it and purchased a large deep cycle marine battery from Sears at the time. It does not loose water and I disabled the water check. Better to double up on a set of deep cycle batteries then to buy the Watchdog brand. Maintenance free batteries don't loose water over time why are theirs? Something I would like to see from Watchdog also is better wire management right from the get go. Yeah good video on the installation.
All good points. I got lucky and didn't get low on water. They have a maintenance free battery now. I moved but was planning to upgrade when the battery needed to keep being filled
I have replaced many pvb's the exact same way. So long as there are no leaks, theres no problems 😊. Febco 825YA's are nice for replacing pvb's as well, however much more expensive then that 375 you got there.
That meter and strainer should not be installed between the #1 shutoff valve and backflow preventer there after, as approved backflow prevention assemblies are classified, approved and supplied as a complete assembly with direct inlet and outlet shut-off valves. However you likely would have had to shut down the supply from the water meter in order to make the correction.
Yeah I inherited it when it needs to be replaced I will correct it. For now they don't want to spend the money. It's original so was approved at some point by an inspector
Also, the small o-rings in your check valve repair kit goes on the check valve stem. The c-clips are removed at the stem and check seat face, then the check disk retention plate will slide off the stem exposing the replaceable o-rings on each check assembly. Good work brother!
What is inlet pressure, because we istalled same but our inlet pressure is 14 psi and due to that water not able to cross BFP because its inside clappers are very tight.
Inlet pressure is just the water source. So village or well system. They make booster pumps to help push more water and more pressure. The number one check is usually 8-10 pounds so I can see that low of pressure being and issue
You said it! Sometimes it’s easy and sometimes it’s a fight. I bought a removal tool kit but it slips off on the #1. I am gonna check out the tool you have.
@@dave_adamson do large building normally have backflow preventers on the main line? also what if any test cock(s) are leaking, what is usually the fix for that?
I am trying to fix mine now. My diaphragm cover appears to be glued down like yours was. I will try working the edges with a knife like you did. Thanks for the info! My #1 check valve has bad rubber. Will definitely replace that. Once I get the glued cover off, I will definitely replace the diaphragm. I hope the relief valve there is good. That sucker cost like $200 to replace. Unbelievable prices.
