WELCOME to Lodestar channel! I'm Lance and this is where you will find technical information and How-To guidance for curious minds and DIY enthusiasts. The focus of this channel is mainly Automotive Diagnostics, Troubleshooting, and Repair but will include other topics as the desire, or viewer suggestion arises. I may also post some unique off-topic material to add variety, so please SUBSCRIBE and check back regularly to see what's new!
Thank you for your informative video 👍 We are planning to take the old girl cross country to visit family in Texas. Recently replaced the timing belt and a tuneup. Next, the motor mounts. To bad they don’t sell the internal rubber part of the motor mount separately.
A mouse nest will come into your cabin filter immediately even in. New vehicles vehicles.!!! Why would you design a car that allows mice and rodents to get into it? Especially the air that you breathe system.? Design a mouse proof vehicle and you will corner the market.!!!🎉
The only part I disconnected was the heat shield. The rest of the mount stays together along with the removable shim if it had one on the old mount and the new mount does not have one.
Symptoms were vibrations resonating through the body of the car especially in Drive or Reverse. Also excessive movement of the engine/transaxle when shifting into drive and reverse. This was a customer car so I don’t know how long the mounts were actually broken. Car had well over 150,000 miles.
The cast iron block typically has a flat boss area on the sides that is useful as a jack point for the screw jack. Not sure if the aluminum blocks have the same boss cast into them or not.
Heres what you replace: its a ram. So what you do is take out the drive belt so that way you can replace the entire vehicle. Makes it easier to go buy a toyota.
Im doing mine right now also rear main seal and trans seal, i made the mistake not changing the trans seal once and a couple months later it started leaking. So do yourself a favor and take care of rear main and trans seals while trans is out.
Is the water pump the pulley that is connected to the fan? That pulley on my 2016 is wobbling like crazy and I have a bad coolant leak from there. Please help.
@@Lodestar1 just finished the job! Filled it, drove off and it’s leaking everywhere…… forgot to put the effin radiator cap back on!!! 🙄 O’well, it’s all good now. Thanks for the video!
Don't normally comment on videos, but man, you're a lifesaver. My boss was wanting me to disconnect everything down to bare bones to get that mount out, but thanks to your video I got it done only taking out the fender liner and the exhaust manifold heat shield (for clearance). Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
My 2002 was a bear had to remove the engine bracket bolts also and drop it down the front of the subframe. Getting the new one in there in position with the bracket flopping around was something let me say especially while laying on my back for hours. Its doable tho. Tight squeeze
Just did my 2010 Suburban with 4WD in about 5 hours. Driver's side motor mount broke while pulling 5,500 lb. + travel trailer out west on an 8% grade. Severe downshift and it popped. I opted to remove the wheel, inner fender, bottom deflector, steering shaft connector and jack up the engine. Replaced with GM mount for about $140. Just had the air bag recall repaired at the dealer and they always perform an 180 point inspection before you get your vehicle back and spotted what I already knew. Quote from the dealer to replace, parts and labor, $ 784.83. Saved a few bucks doing it myself. Not the hardest repair I've done, but it was challenging. Now I don't have to baby it when accelerating from a stoplight. I checked the passenger side with an inspection mirror and did not find any tears in the rubber element.
You’d think GM would design a stronger mount for the torque side of an engine installed in a truck with tow package….but that’s how they make money in the shop.
This is the only task I've ever attempted on a vehicle that I had to give up ! Infuriating! I could not find a way to even get the socket on the head of the bolts (to the block)...seemed the hole in the heat shield was offset and kept the socket from aligning with the impossible to see bolts. Hours of cursing before I hung my head and gave up !
Yes indeed thats why i bought box of 3000+MAh 18650 batteries :) im an mechanic at audi so i will be using this alot and i will keep you updated how long the light will last
Most parts suppliers sell the mounts individually. It’s possible someone has a complete kit, like www.Rockauto.com so maybe you can check out their site.
I purchased two of these over the past two years & have treated them with care. Not to rotate the heads to overkill. Both have FAILED in less than a year. One failed right out of package it came in but was beyond it's return date. I considered Braun a trusted name but it's garbage like all things Chinesium @ H.F.
Not sure if you will read this but I have a 1996 Toyota Avalon xls model and I have PO401 code on mine. Before I had the code, i took it to the smog to see if it would pass and then the guy told me I have insufficient air flow and that the modulator could be causing the problem. I switched that out and it helped but the check engine light still appears and the next thing he told me is to switch out the the vacuum switch solenoid that connects to the egr system but honestly I feel like I’m going in blind not knowing what the problem is. Do you have any ideas worth noting? Thanks.
Before spending more money, I would suggest removing the EGR valve and pipe assembly, inspect the inside of the tube and egr valve for carbon build up which can restrict flow of the exhaust gas. Then verify the solenoid actually operates (opens and closes) with 12volt power and ground applied to the solenoid terminals.
