During this mid-life crisis I decided to take up OO Gauge model railways. I have been binge watching OOGauge Model Railways on RU-vid for well over a year, so I thought.... how hard can it be??? The answer is quite! The pros are truly brilliant at providing inspiration and showing you how amazing your layout could look and they do cover the basics, however getting there from scratch and avoiding some very basic potholes (even though you think you know enough to avoid them, D'Oh!!!) is harder than it looks, well at least it was for me, maybe I am more basic than I realised!! I aim to share the fundamental errors that I have made so hopefully you can avoid them, to date they've probably cost me a couple of hundred quid!! Which in these hard times I'd prefer to have avoided. I'm certainly not suggesting that you shouldn't get into this great hobby and indeed I wish I'd got into it sooner, just hope I can make it a tiny bit easier for you.
I just got back to this hobby from a 30 year break or so. And i thought i knew enough to start it off nicely. So i bought a lot of DC stuff, cause i want to keep it simple. Plus i have experience with it to know how to block the tracks and so on. What i did not take into account was scaling. I remember as a child we had HO scale. I clearly remember the size of it all, very nice size. BUT!!!! I should have taken it into account when i restarted this hobby. I have a room, 2.7 meters by 3.7 meters. Sure, you can build a reasonably nice layout in HO scale in that room. BUT i should have gone for a smaller scale. N, or Z perhaps? But since i bought so much stuff for HO scale, i gosta make it work in the available space. I have the option to connect another room to this room by knocking down a wall, which would increase the space by 3.7 meters by 2 meters roughly. So in total a space of 3.7 meters by roughly 5 meters would be possible. And i think it is possible to create a nice layout with HO scale in a room like that. So why do i write this? To warn people that they do have to consider the space they have available, and adjust the scale they want to build in. Because with a smaller scale you can build so much more stuff. Nevertheless, i have decided to layer the layout. And so, it will have an extra level. The trains will have to get up to the next level somehow. And so i am gonna have a mountain ridge blocking the view where the train can climb uphill, perhaps a bit of an uphill spiral, and then it comes out of some tunnel. Or, what i was thinking of is a train lift system. Simply lifts em up to the next level. That way they don't wear as much as when they have to climb up a hill.
the rails of a drawer from the kitchen, 4 of em and a platform in the middle with a small lifting mechanism, scissor lift or something like it. End stops. Easy enough in my opinion.
Hi Bert, a very well constructed and thought out response. And I completely agree, space is key, I went OO/HO as I just find the other gauges a bit too fiddly, but I agree on your point about the amount of layout you can get in a particular space. As for inclines, I agree, there are many ways to skin a cat, lifts, helixes, inclines, they all have their merits. Good luck with your layout!!! And welcome back to this wonderful hobby, I look forward to seeing/hearing how your layout turns out....
Hi Somax. That is weird, can’t think of a reason that would happen. I guess you could just leave it at 3 and change any other locos from 3 to something else…. But it’s a weird one, thanks for raising.
@@AberHaltJunction thing is i tried changing it back to 3 and it still wont work, might try asking bachmann what to do or just sending it back to get it fixed
If you go into TOOLS and click TOOLBOX, you can set up your baseboard in several ways. I use rectangle as I have a dining table to build on. Click the drop-down menu in TOOLBOX and select BASEBOARD (RECTANGULAR) and then input the X and the Y dimensions and it draws it for you. It will place the upper left corner at 0/0 grid point. If you have an "L" shaped baseboard, you will need to select BASEBOARD (ADS, COORDINATES). Then input an X and Y grid point and click +. If you make a mistake, click the -. When all of your points have been chosen, click DONE. Don't forget to make the last point a return to the first point to close out the shape.
Hi ya. You have a fantastic little layout there. Got mine in a 10ftx10ft log cabin thick wood for the roof with tiles on top. Try to keep the humidity down as much as possible. Hope you can sort your damp problem out. Great vlog buddy thank you. .... Pete....
Quite an interesting layout. It was December when we first moved to our current address, and I thought the roof space would make a great place for model railway! But when the summer came, it was as hot as hell up there! So I moved the layout to the room it is now in. However, the dimensions of the baseboard were dictated by the place in the loft I designed it for. Since then, I have made many revisions to the track plan. The problem is most track plans cause derailments! Have fun. Thanks for uploading.
Ah yes it is is true, there are pros and cons to all layout locations. As for track plans, yes I agree, it is very hard to pick ones that cause hassle free running! I hope you can fix on one that works for you! Thanks for your view and nice comment, appreciated.
I just installed my first HDMCC decoder, which went into a Hornby class 56. Decoder set up and loading the class 56 profile via the app was relatively straight forward and I’m pleased with the resulting sound. The ergonomics of the app are great and enable easy driving of the loco and operation of the various sound and lighting functions from the phone via Bluetooth. BUT……. switching from the app to my DCC controller and the function operation is significantly degraded - F1/engine start no longer works and the directional lighting functions have been lost. The only way to get sound and directional lighting via my DCC controller is using F28/automated function control - so I’m losing a lot of operational flexibility using the DCC controller. As I intend to operate all the locos on my layout via the DCC controller, I’m hesitating to purchase another HMDCC decoder for any of my other not sound fitted locos. Has anybody else had similar issues and been able to find a solution ?
I’m the same, I only intend running mine using my controller. My functions seem to be okay, but I have had issues transferring control from the app to the controller… The app seems to be more robustly connected than from the controller…. Let’s see what the hive mind comes up with….
Being a novice myself I have probably followed a few of these steps but its all part of the fun to begin a new hobby but fortunately I can follow lot of people on You tube for guidance so I can go back and forth improving my mistakes. thanks for highlighting few points I can avoid too as I go along on this hobby. Good luck to your new layout.
Cheers mate, I completely agree with your points, I do the same! Thanks for the good luck wishes for my new layout, hopefully I don’t make too many of the same mistakes again!
Hi ya. You have a great layout. Found it's all part of our great hobby making mistakes. Part of the fun is fixing them. I make lots of mistakes but don't show them on camera, I cheat.😄 Great vlog thank you. ....Pete....
Haha, yeah, I try to show mine, but some don’t make the cut!! Yeah it’s a great hobby, people are always willing to help. Your layout is very impressive, nice scenics, love the pill box! Thanks for the nice comment.
At least you've built something.... I have a pile of "stuff" and each time I move a step forwards it raises more questions - I.E. do I buy 4 pre-made inclines and two bridges at a high price or wait and just cut plywood to suit ? The later being the cheaper option.... Do I go for pre-built ABC modules or make my own ? How do I sort the Boolean Algebra to control the various routes at a double slip crossover and/or 3-way point ?
Lol, yes, you’re right, getting started is always 80% of the battle!!!! As for gradients, go for your own, it’s doable, takes a bit of time and isn’t quite as good as the bought stuff, but it’s satisfying! Yeah I’m toying with ABC, managed to get a free unit with a DCC chip, will have to experiment. As for Boolean algebra, yes you are right, it’s probably more complex!! Hope you get started, look forward to seeing how your layout comes along!
Get rid of that nasty OSB and use good plywood ,don`t use cheap felt and insulate !!!!! Then enjoy building the layout ,, I`ve seen a lot of time and money wasted because of poor shed roofs ,,,,subscribed as well ...
Urgghhh curved points are tricky. Hey btw, I don't think you need more track personally, it's obviously down to you but I think it looks decent and not too full which some do. I've been on the same journey as you, at least you have a level board 😂🎉
Yes they are tricky!!! I think your point is fair, it would be a case of removing some to enable the space, but yes definitely a fair point. Level boards do help….. took a while to do mind!!
@@AberHaltJunction I didn't think my shelf layout would be as much a pain in the backside as it's turned out, but still enjoying it. Like you, lots I would probably do differently having learnt the hard way.
@@_RandomPea very true!!! I’m building a shelf layout and by complete fluke it’s level!!! But yeah you’re right, hindsight is wonderful!!! 😂 I’m sure I’ll make some of the same mistakes again! Although hopefully not the curved point one!
I'm sitting here nodding away going "yup I did that ... oh god yes that flipping incline of mine was a pain, ...." I can relate to all of these points as I have suffered the same issues but that's what we do as novices. Mine is in an inherited shed, but when I decided to first go for a model railway I fortunately did do some work proofing the shed but because its in a shed the temperature as you say plays havoc Having learnt the lessons this second time around I tried to avoid all of these, and have done (mainly) successfully. Couple of points as well if I may - * plan where your turnouts can go to avoid the wood work underneath ( I had to cut some of my baseboard out even on the second layout attempt!) * run locos as often as possible before fixing track down ( I switched to using small screws for N gauge track because sods law I would nacker up a section and then fight to get it back up and laid properly) * Ballast thinly, then run the locos as often as you can before glueing to ensure no derailments (I still had to lift some track up!!) For me personally as well, being N gauge and being 65 years old my eyesight is not as good as it should be so - purchase a magnifying head set (with light) and a set of rail joiner jigs - damn those things are small and I saved my thumbs a lot of cuts! Great advice mate and thanks for sharing. Regards Steve
Hi Steve, glad it resonated, yes, as for your additional points, I couldn't agree more. The turnout one in particular! The amount of rework I had to do to get a point motor in, on the dock it took me an age as I stupidly made the dock out of solid wood!! I really like your ballasting comment, that's one I haven't done, will definitely do that for AHJ V2.0. I feel a second video coming on! There's no way I could do N gauge, hats off to you sir! I would certainly need the magnifying head set, it's hard enough doing OO joiners, I'm very impressed you can do that! Thanks for your view and considered comment, we need to make a bible of mistakes to avoid!!! Cheers.
Thanks Phil, yeah, looking forward to making a bunch of new mistakes!! :) But yeah itching to get the new shed built for my wife so I can get the new layout started!
we all make mistakes its part of life, has long as u learn from it and learn to do better thats what anything is about - look forward to the new progress
The real underlying issue as to Hattons having to close is exactly the same reason that many thousands of other companies have ceased trading in the last few years. If your business did a high percentage of its trade outside of the UK then I'm afraid that the reality of the Brexit lies has come home to roost! Brexit is actual reason why Hattons has closed. The impossible trading conditions caused by it have sunk UK's foreign trade for the smaller and medium sized businesses. It's a national disaster. Whoever thought that inflicting economic sanctions on ourselves was a good idea? There are serious consequences for national stupidity, delusion, exceptionalism, gullibility, susceptibility and insouciance. We as a nation sure are "world beating" at those! This country deserves what it voted for and has now got. The public are responsible for who they trust and who they elect. They needs to learn some harsh lessons sharpish or this country is finished. Regards Julian
Hi Julian, very considered opinion, I note that in their press release they do mention some of these aspects. It's a shame as I still refer to them and then remember they have gone. I hope the other modelling companies are suitably isolated or diversified. I tend to steer clear of politics when I can on this channel, but read into my thumbs up and heart of your comment as you will......
@@AberHaltJunction Hattons specialised in international sales, it was a large part of their business, so they were not equipped to deal with the new trading conditions. They diplomatically shared around their reasons for closing so as not to upset the apple cart. I do, however, mention politics because it affects every single aspect of our lives...I've made it my business to be very informed and I've an outspoken personality/mentality! :) I totally understand your position and don't blame anyone for steering clear of it or hiding their opinions. Anyway, I enjoy you channel so more videos when you can please... Regards Julian
@@theeventhorizon-valebridge9512 you are too kind Julian, and thanks for your understanding, I am very political down the pub don’t worry! As for vids, they’ll keep coming, I assure you. All the best.
Wow that was a shock! But good luck and I know when I re did mine it reinvigorated my joy of model railways. I am really looking forward to how you go about the new layout, envious that your inside (and not in a shed). Good luck with it all. Regards Steve
Thanks Steve, yeah I know what you mean, I hope it will be the same for me…. Yeah being inside will bring both pros and cons I’m sure, but yes there definite upside. Sorry for the shock! I’ll try better in the future….
A perfect 'Meet the Fleet' vid, enjoyed that. You have built up an impressive collection, very nice. And of course, you can't beat a 125, belongs in every collection (like the Valenta sound too). All the best.....Andy
No it’s all connected together, very steep gradients unfortunately, but it’s what I had to do to get it into the space I had available. But I don’t have any problems going up and down them.
I don’t have any DCC locos. Think it might be too late as the cost of chipping could be inhibitive plus, living in Toronto there is an excessive postage cost. These locos look and sound great The bridges, retaining walls look terrific also
Thanks mate, kind comments. Yeah chipping can cost a bit, plus a controller of course, I can understand your pausing. Yeah those retaining walls are amazing, really help the layout.
How do the lighting functions work? I was going to put a Hornby decoder in my 37 but was put off the idea as apparently the different lighting functions don’t work?
Hi. Nice video. I had the same problem with apparently missing roof panel magnets. But they were actually still on the loco. They had just come away from their setting and were just stuck to the opposing magnet. They are very slim. I just glued them back in position. Maybe this has happened to your loco. Regards… Steve 👍
Ah yes, interesting, good call Steve. Glad you enjoyed, I will take a look and let you know if my eyesight has struck again!! Glad I don’t do n gauge! I’m just relieved didn’t have to take the whole thing apart! Thanks.
Hi there,Just purchased used select controller and firmware is 11, but I’m going to use this for HM DCC legacy dongle, all my locomotives have sound and are already programmed through my original Railmaster Elink controller so wouldn’t need to send the Select off to Hornby ?
I see what you’re saying, yes, that could well be a good trick. I got a second select last week from eBay and may well have the same issue, so may well do the same! Cheers! Great comment.
brilliant videos and instruction on how to change CV using Select Controller. Now a little confused as I purchased my Select as a used unit, I sent of my Select to Hornby for upgrade which they did and returned it back to me, So when I switch the Unit ON I get on my display start as 16-30--03 but you had I think 20-30-03 is that because of the age of my Select being an older unit??
Hi Dalip, I’m glad you enjoyed. Thanks for the nice comment. Yeah that’s right your firmware is 1.6, the newer units are 2.0 hence the codes. But you can still get yours to do what it needs to do?
hi tricky job well done, i had same problem but manage to use original bits i actually did what the new shafts came with ribbed ends i squashed the ends with a old big pair of pliers gave it a knurled end and used super glue to fit plastic bit......tony
Yeah I agree, it is tricky, lovely little loco, shame, as it seems to be quite a common problem. I like your idea, if I had a greater skill set I would have done the same!!! Cheers Tony!
Hey mate, very good question, I’ve been away for a couple of months, now I’m back I’m back in the shed and am already working on my next one, a few weeks and I should have a couple out… Thanks for asking!
