Now I know why the sound in my 04 t5 is so ‘weedy’….looks like speaker diameter is only 4 inch? Did you consider just putting tweeters there and wiring up speakers in the door where I’m sure you would fit 6 inch diameter? Thanks for posting.
Thank you, it was the case for me as well! Because of the small battery consumption while not in use, the battery drained and after that the exact same solenoid caused problem, but after temporarily replacing the wire it works again!
Had to take my wheels off to get my hands in, but in the end turned out to be a fault in the wiring of the lamp so had to order a whole new lamp and bumper off to change it!
Mines got similar symptoms and using more fuel just put a new battery on it and coil pack is the next option. I had the same gunk in that breather tube my cars on 38,000
so your van doesn't have an inmobilizer? It should be exacly where that stop solenoid right? I'm about to smash mine to get to those cables... never parking next to tesla chargers again. So you do you have that part II ? 😄😄
It's the timing chain hitting on the inside of the engine block. I've had an Aygo since 2006 and it has done it ever since it was driven out of the Toyota dealership until the engine warms up. Last year I replaced the engine because it was just drinking oil after reaching 200,000 miles. When I took the old engine apart, you could see the scratching on the inside of the engine block where the chain was hitting the top. As long as you use good quality oil and change it regularly, it won't be an issue. Low quality or the wrong oil will clog up the timing chain tensioner and hinder its performance / stop it working altogether.
@@sebastianborek3591 I'm not saying you're wrong because it's also a common fault with these, but with piston slap, you'd expect to see blue smoke and a drop in the oil level? When the piston hits the side of the cylinder wall you'd end up with scoring and deformation which would allow oil to seep through past the oil seal and burn. Also I know the timing chain tensioner is mechanical and my point was that low or bad quality oil can cause the mechanical parts of tensioner to not work as effectively. I'm not saying it would make the chain loose as such, but that tiny bit of play can cause it to hit the side/top engine block due to there being such little clearance.
Turn the wheel inward, it will be out of your way. Even better Jack the car up as well. Don’t use the pliers you may crush the fragile plastic socket, you can easily remove the socket and replace it with your fingers.
Sincerely for me it sound like a major mechanical fault , pistons ,tappets ,timing chain,you name it, like a very high mileage car probably neglecting regular oil change
A few years back I started filling the replacement fuel filter with Liqui Moly diesel purge instead of diesel. I watched a well known VW T4 mechanic do the same and thought I should give it a go. Van runs like an absolute dream. A 500ml tin is enough to fill the fuel filter.
This is the timing chain. Even though low mileage I’m wondering if the mileage is 1. Genuine or 2. Has had a diet of poor quality oil. I’ve found that although people claim the 1KRFE is bulletproof, it really is sensitive to correct grades and needs premium oils. It’s known in certain circles that Toyotas own oil is Mobil 1. The problem with cheaper oils is that not only do they increase wear, but they lead to varnishing and organic particulates which clog the timing chain tensioner. The chain may not be that much stressed, but the tensioner takes increased time to reach full pressure, or as can be seen here, perhaps never does along with wear. These are very good, simple engines and considered, sadly - as almost throwaway by many owners … that is until austerity, Covid and the end of affordable sub compact class really hit in. As a result, many of these cars are neglected. They really do rely on top quality oils as the sumps are so tiny and for the more delicate cam gear and softer piston rings for higher MPG. Only use mobil 1 or another premium oil
@@startfromscratch4858Ah, so I was right about it being the chain though, when others were saying piston slap and lifter tick. I wonder what else I might be right about? You would of course know that lifted tick on most cases develops from low quality oil and neglected oil change intervals. So, what do you put the stretched chain / failed tensioner down to? What oil do you use and what history of oil changes / quality did it have?
Yo tengo el mismo problema en mi Yaris, ni cambio de cadena, ni bujías, ni limpiar el cuerpo de aceleración, ni pcv, ni maf ni nada, además con la vibración golpetea el escape entre 1500 y 2000 rpm, horroroso
