Follow me on my journey to become a RU-vid Maker. My name is Morgan and I make things. What kinds of things you ask? All kinds of things, but I have to start somewhere. So welcome to my channel, I hope you enjoy your stay.
If u tension the belts just enough the printhead shouldn't come down. Also when the powers get cut the motors need to cut their current to around 35-50% and then move the printhead straight up by about 5cm and stay there (because at the end of this sequence the steper motors are still energized they will hold the printhead in position so it doesn't fall on the printing part). I've done this on a little monster equiped with duet 1.04 and it worked so it should work also on other boards that support the current reduction in order to reduce the power consumed from the powersupply when the electric current gets cut so you can park the printhead before there isn't any more energy in the powersupply capacitors.
You've got such a friendly, chatty persona, watching your vids feels like having a brew & a chin-wag with a mate, in his workshop! You definitely deserve more subscribers & likes! 🥰❤️
If you want this thing to work properly there are quite a few upgrades to do. The Duet 2 is a huge upgrade on them and the smart effector for bed levelling make it work way better.
Nice video Morgan! Are the wheels on the bottom of the shelf fixed-position? I tried an application similar in theory a while back and got wheels that would rotate when the angle of force changes and they ended up being a headache.
Cheers Mate! All the wheels are fixed in position and don't swivel. I only wanted it to travel in 2 directions, like a normal sliding door but heavier.
morgan bi gün ölecen köpek kedi kus yılan ve aslan dahil olmak üzere maske bana getirip yeniden doğuş versiyonumu diriltip ben ve askımı sonsuza kadar yaslanmayı tercih edeceğim ve yeni baharlara umut acıp gönüllere gitmeyi alayına tercih olmak üzere kapılarımızı kapatıp benim karım haric tüm cizgidizifilmleri yokedeceğim haberin olsun o gün bugün olmiyacak baska zamn
keep going mate..i enjoyed the video.. what a lecky u are :)).. i got a mate with one of them types of printers if u still aving issues ile tell him to pop up some mesages for the next one.. also he boat stuck because its too low to the bed on the first layers..
lol, cheers mate! I've gotten some better results from the little monster since I posted the video. I have the Z off set all the way up to 1.2mm at the moment. The prints are coming out nice but I hate how Pursa does supports.
@Morgan Makes you can change that . Take supports away and draw them in. Or reduce the angles that require supports. In fairness when you get used to it I actually found now it better than cura but that's my opinion.
Cheers mate! First time I've heard of Klipper, had a quick look and it seems interesting. Might at least open up some options for other slicers for me.
I have had a decent look for it and I can't find the file on my computer. It only took a few minutes to make in Blender so I'll get back to you in a day or two when I have made some new ones. Good luck with your build mate.
Hey mate, in terms of using bog, a great replacement for builders bog that is a tonne easier is Blade Putty from Supercheap Auto. its 1 part so no need for mixing and sands super easy. Should make your life a fair bit easier, at least when it comes to sanding :)
morgan great explanation on the train stuff fella. nice wonky curves though . its good that you add in the faults and issues with the builds and the fixes you have,, keep going fella. your doing well plus you make me laugh a fair crack.. cos i deal with these issues too
Thx for the video. Did you firmware update? I have some doubts about upgrading after I saw some User complains their review videos about issues have become after firmware update. What do you think?
Cheers mate! I have never updated the firm on this machine, all these months later it is still running just as it did out of the box. I read about similar issues, don't fix what ain't broke I guess.
Good job fella... now how about the clone trooper helmet and vader.. I'm working on a terminator arm and alien wall . Will get too the storm trooper soon
Cheers mate! Thanks for the kind words. I recently got a large format 3D printer, when i finally get it working its going to be helmet time! I love both Terminator and Alien, can't wait to see how they turn out. Best of luck mate.
Cheers mate! The fact that it made you laugh makes all the effort worth it. Stuff ups are part of the process, you gotta listen to yourself when you say "That sucked, there has to be a better way."
It's so spiky, that game looked fun, but I never got around to playing it. The ball seems perfect to me, when I saw it in the thumbnail I thought it was a real ball you put spikes on, great work.
@@morganmakes3465 You're very welcome, bud! I've checked out some of your more recent videos and you've definitely improved! Looking a lot more like a "youtuber" and less like a "guy with a camera sharing advice"! And you've clearly figured out the music already. I'm actually looking into getting my first 3D printer, and was only thinking about artistic things like miniatures or busts, but your video on the fishing rod turner gave me so much inspiration of what I could do, especially modifications for my kayak, so thanks! You got my sub. Actually, if you don't mind me asking, how was your experience with AnyCubic been? I'm torn between the Photon mono 4k, and the Elegoo Mars 3 Pro, and I've heard some iffy stories of the customer support from AnyCubic.
@@cormacsmall9442 Cheers mate, loving the support! 3D printing is a great hobby, a great business if you have imagination, the more you push yourself the more you will be surprised with what you can do. In my experience with AnyCubic, the machines are good when they work. If you keep them serviced and they have a mighty machine spirit they will serve you well. AnyCubic customer support on the other hand can find and kiss the hairiest part of me.
@@morganmakes3465 Haha, I am delighted to here that, as I have just ordered a Mars 3 Pro! And I had an issue with payment, but got a prompt response from Elegoo so based on customer support alone I am happy with my decision. SO excited to get into the hobby! To help deal with the wait for it to deliver I've been learning some CAD stuff. Not easy with a laptop touch pad, hah!
I’ve vaccuformed and fiberglassed more than a few of these. Purchased aa 3dprinted kit once, and hated it. It melted and deformed a little in my shed. Then it cracked when my mannequin fell. Yes, it’s a ridoncolous pain in the ass. Try doing the armor now. You’ll have deep appreciation for the first imperial detachment guys in the 501st.
We need to make this video more popular because this one of the very few videos that shows the entire process on how to make an arduino powered portal gun
Instead of 3d printing the clear tube, you could probably get away with finding a smooth plastic water bottle with the same diameter for a clearer tube.
very carefully with a soldering iron. Scrape back as much of the resin film as you can off the terminals on the strip, then put a small amount of solder on the terminals before attaching the wire. Good Luck Mate.
Someone asked for the code I used. Here it is. /* This sketch is a compilation of the FastLED DemoReel and a button press. There are a bunch of mode options to choose from within the sketch. Note: Codebender might not support some parts required by this sketch as the version of FastLED may be out of date. Copy to & upload via Java IDE if you run into this issue. Have fun! */ #include <FastLED.h> #include "colorutils.h" #include "colorpalettes.h" #if defined(FASTLED_VERSION) && (FASTLED_VERSION < 3001000) #warning "Requires FastLED 3.1 or later; check github for latest code." #endif //This is where we adjust things to match our unique project: #define NUM_LEDS 31 // adjust this to the number of LEDs you have: 16 or more #define LED_TYPE WS2812B // adjust this to the type of LEDS. This is for Neopixels #define DATA_PIN 6 // adjust this to the pin you've connected your LEDs to #define BRIGHTNESS 45 // 255 is full brightness, 128 is half, 32 is an eighth. #define SATURATION 255 // 0-255, 0 is pure white, 255 is fully saturated color #define BUTTON_PIN 2 // Connect the button to GND and one of the pins. #define UPDATES_PER_SECOND 100 #define COLOR_ORDER GRB // Try mixing up the letters (RGB, GBR, BRG, etc) for a whole new world of color combinations #define NUM_MODES 4 //Update this number to the highest number of "cases" uint8_t gHue = 0; // rotating "base color" used by many of the patterns uint16_t STEPS = 30; // STEPS set dynamically once we've started up uint16_t SPEED = 30; // SPEED set dynamically once we've started up CRGB leds[NUM_LEDS]; CRGBPalette16 currentPalette; TBlendType currentBlending; int ledMode = 0; const TProgmemPalette16 MyColors_p PROGMEM = { CRGB:: DarkBlue, CRGB:: HotPink, CRGB:: Teal, CRGB:: BlueViolet, CRGB:: DodgerBlue, CRGB:: DeepPink, CRGB:: Turquoise, CRGB:: Indigo, CRGB:: DarkBlue, CRGB:: HotPink, CRGB:: Teal, CRGB:: BlueViolet, CRGB:: DodgerBlue, CRGB:: DeepPink, CRGB:: Turquoise, CRGB:: Indigo, }; byte prevKeyState = HIGH; // button is active low //------------------SETUP------------------ void setup() { delay( 2000 ); // power-up safety delay FastLED.addLeds<LED_TYPE,DATA_PIN,COLOR_ORDER>(leds, NUM_LEDS).setCorrection(TypicalLEDStrip); FastLED.setBrightness(BRIGHTNESS); currentBlending; pinMode(BUTTON_PIN, INPUT_PULLUP); } //------------------MAIN LOOP------------------ void loop() { byte currKeyState = digitalRead(BUTTON_PIN); if ((prevKeyState == LOW) && (currKeyState == HIGH)) { shortKeyPress(); } prevKeyState = currKeyState; static uint8_t startIndex = 0; startIndex = startIndex + 20; /* motion speed */ switch (ledMode) { /*Here are the mode options. Paste these lines into the below to choose. Only 4-5 will fit. * case X: rainbow(); break; * case X: confetti(); break; * case X: sinelon(); break; * case X: rainbowWithGlitter(); break; * case X: juggle(); break; */ case 0: confettiA(); break; case 1: confettiB(); break; case 2: confettiC(); break; case 3: confettiD(); break; case 4: confettiE(); break; // case 5: confettiF(); break; // case 6: confettiG(); break; } FastLED.show(); FastLED.delay(1000 / SPEED); //EVERY_N_MILLISECONDS( 20 ) { gHue++; } // slowly cycle the "base color" through the rainbow } //------------------Button Press Setup------------------ void shortKeyPress() { ledMode++; if (ledMode > NUM_MODES){ ledMode=0; } } void confettiA() { // random colored speckles that blink in and fade smoothly fadeToBlackBy( leds, NUM_LEDS, 10); int pos = random16(NUM_LEDS); leds[pos] += CHSV( 50 , 255, BRIGHTNESS*5); //Adjusted Brightness with variable } void confettiB() { // random colored speckles that blink in and fade smoothly fadeToBlackBy( leds, NUM_LEDS, 10); int pos = random16(NUM_LEDS); leds[pos] += CHSV( 150 , 255, BRIGHTNESS*5); //Adjusted Brightness with variable } void confettiC() { // random colored speckles that blink in and fade smoothly fadeToBlackBy( leds, NUM_LEDS, 10); int pos = random16(NUM_LEDS); leds[pos] += CHSV( 50 , 255, BRIGHTNESS*5); //Adjusted Brightness with variable } void confettiD() { // random colored speckles that blink in and fade smoothly fadeToBlackBy( leds, NUM_LEDS, 10); int pos = random16(NUM_LEDS); leds[pos] += CHSV( 150 , 255, BRIGHTNESS*5); //Adjusted Brightness with variable } void confettiE() { // random colored speckles that blink in and fade smoothly fadeToBlackBy( leds, NUM_LEDS, 10); int pos = random16(NUM_LEDS); leds[pos] += CHSV( 0, 255, BRIGHTNESS*0); //Adjusted Brightness with variable } //void confettiF() //{ // random colored speckles that blink in and fade smoothly // fadeToBlackBy( leds, NUM_LEDS, 10); // int pos = random16(NUM_LEDS); // leds[pos] += CHSV( 200, 255, BRIGHTNESS*5); //Adjusted Brightness with variable //}
I was looking at one of these on the weekend. A customer at my Strawberry Patch very kindly showed me a couple of it’s features as I’m concerned about carbon fuels & am looking to update to hybrid myself. Thank you for this informative review. You also brought back some memories of during a move my trailer unhitched itself right on that very speed hump. Which also makes this review a little freaky as you look very similar to my friend who was with me when the trailer unhitched. Anyhow, back to the Strawberries. Regards.
The whole build plate fits inside of the wash bucket. Just turn it upside down and it fits into supports on the metal cage. You can wash the model and the build plate at the same time.
The only downside of this is you end up getting all the excess resin in your cleaning station and you end up having to replace the alcohol FAR more often. If time is more of an issue than avoiding waste, then your advice is definitely solid, but if you're trying to save every drop of resin and/or alcohol, it's a good idea to separate the build plate and scrape/filter as much resin as you can back into the bottle, and then wipe down with alcohol and a disposable rag, and then a microfiber cloth.
