No glamour (Cleavage to get views), No room filled RGB (It's not LGBTQPRZ++1) and No script written by AI or reading from Wikipedia (It all sounds the same droning crap). Just good old fashioned retro repairing!
I need to try Batocera. Just tried CoinOp 2 on my PC and most of the older console games have only audio and a blank screen. Like NES, SNES, Genesis don't work, but MAME, Saturn, N64, Dreamcast all fine. Not sure what's up.
Why go through all that hastle, get df0 df1 switcher, external drive cable for the gotek has its own power, easy boot from gotek from df1 or df0 floppy, just recently done this with my 500+, not knocking you just easier way.
Yeah I know your not bud. I was creating something out of bits I had laying around. I created a DDA board a few years ago to give you internal Gotek and Floppy but I have done videos on that kind of thing many a time, this time I just wanted to experiment 😊
I believe the crack intro is coded to only look at DF0 when exits the intro to load the game. To get it to work you either need to edit the crack intro program to look at both DF0 and DF1 or you need to do a hardware modification with a switch between SEL0 and SEL1 line traces on the mainboard to swap them around. This will make external DF0 and internal DF1. The A4000 has a jumper on the mainboard that does exactly that, swapping of SEL0 and SEL1.
That would explain a lot! I did that when I created the DDA board for Gotek/Floppy internal but this time round I don't want to mod the case in any form to add a switch! Just creating a cable from spare bits I have laying around!
@@SHGRetro you could use a diy modded chip socket on the even CIA to swap over the generated SEL0 and SEL1 signals. Create this with a switch and you can choose whether the external port is DF0 or DF1 👍.
@@MrSmileyBobuk Them Gotek mods on the top of the Amiga remind me of a growth! Can't stand them as they look ugly and was one reason why I created the DDA board!
@@cullmaster7361 Forgot to tell you over the phone! Don't forget when you replace the button cell, a bit of white Vinegar over the corrosion patch and leave for 10 mins then clean with IPA
6:40 actually its better to fix the hot air blower fan sooner than later if it starts making noises like that, i heard bad stories of people having the whole thing melting because the fan got stuck
Corrosion is always a challenge to deal with and you did a great job on getting it sorted. About the comment, apologies, it was meant to be a tongue in cheek comment as I know you need broken stuff for your videos or it makes for a short and boring video.
About a year ago when my partially recapped A4000D sound all of a sudden got very faint on one channel and a bit quiet on the other I pulled the Zorro cards and scan doubler and recapped the audio section in place. I was too impatient to rip the whole thing apart and the solder station was literally two feet away. It took 15 or 20 minutes and the sound was back to 100% after. Sometimes you're lucky and sometimes you're good and sometimes you're good and lucky :)
Thanks for the Vid Stu! The thumb nail made me laugh 😆 Just confirm, I only touched the SIMM sockets. The Caps being played with and the VARTA damage was because of the previous owner I bought it off over a year ago… Thanks again for looking into this for me. Cheers 🍻
Nice vid Stu 👍🏻 Dare I say it…. but Greedy Bugger here, has 3 of these as well 🙄🤣👍🏻 1 has a Spacebar problem. So will use this video to try and fix that one and hopefully not destroy it… 🤣🤣🤣🤣😉👍🏻🤦🏻♂️
I miss the old times. I have an Amiga 500 plus myself, which is always nice to look at. I love your videos. Real retro feeling. Not many can do that. Keep it up. greetings from Austria
A Amiga with a much issues and a lot of work. Great job! I am working on a IBM 5150 for a customer. But waiting for parts now. Greetings from Steven from the Netherlands
