Any kind of technological stuff; be it electronics, electrical or mechanical! i try to share any knowledge I've gathered throughout these years to help people. It's the best feeling ever! Electronics hardware designer by profession
When I was 16 (in 1995), a friend of mine who was a bit older had just gotten his drivers license (we're in Europe, we must be 18 to get the drivers license here) and his father let him use his car. He called me and a couple of other friends to his place and then he was like _"Guys, guys, you need to see this! Look what happens if I push this button"_ and then he showed us what we see in this video. We were all _"WOW!!!"_ because none of us did know that a car could do this! Innocent times... 🙄
My dad bought one of these back in the day only about a year old 2nd hand.. i was around 7-8 so would have been 1983-4.. he loved it and thought it was the dogs nuts and even as young as i was i absolutely hated it and thought it was God-awful in every way sorry 😟 he had just replaced a mk1 ford granada 3.0 ghia that had been written off in an accident and i loved that car
French cars: you either love them or you'll absolutely hate them. Personally, it's the advanced technology they had back then, is what amazes me. The hydraulic system is amazing in every way.
i have the same heater, works great. i have to replace the wick, but i couldn't find it anywhere. Going to look for a Aladdin wick. Thanks for sharing!
depends what you like. they have nice bass and lots of reflection (which is fun concept on it's own!) but lack resolution. I did compare them to my Yamaha NS690, and to me, the 690 sounded much more detailed (albeit lacking bass!). i prefer to sacrifice some bass to detail; other people might prefer it the other way round. To me, they are simply not in the league of the NS690 (both bose and yamaha in subject fetch roughly the same money on ebay). I would probably pair them with my ns 690 (or the NS1000... will decide when i get there!) so that i'd have best of both worlds; the clarity of the yamaha, and the bass and reflecting concept of the bose.
@@chrisbusuttil8030 Thank you for the detailed explanation and your personal opinion. Based on what you're saying, they sound more like "party" speakers, which is not a problem, but I was hoping for a detailed sound signature. It seems like a fun speaker, so I completely understand your desire to keep them. Thanks again, and enjoy the sound :)
@@SD-ym5joindeed, they are PERFECT for party speakers! They are particular speakers, the direct reflecting thing really works well if you put an empty wall behind them. They are less fussy than the 901s when it comes to positioning, and I have to be honest, I like the fact that you can hear them next to you wherever you are in the room. In reality, that was Bose's point with these speakers; clarity wasn't on their agenda; sound reflection was! They are a keeper to me... and will plan to get some 901s series 1 or 2 someday. If you want a detailed sound signature and are willing to spend 600EUR on a set of vintage speakers, go for the Yamaha NS690. if you have more cash, go for the NS1000. I have both and while i like the precision and distortion free high output sound that the NS1000 produces, there are times where i prefer the NS690; slightly sweeter, and more forgiving; they sound good with most amps you put them with albeit less powerful than the NS1000. You can't do that with the NS1000; they dont like mid-fi equipment and sound horrible.
@@cbusuttil Thanks for the tip. I would have gladly purchased those if it weren't for the fact that they are more or less impossible to find in the market where I live. And when they are available, they usually fall into a price range that, in my opinion, exceeds their sound quality. That being said, it would still be fun to come across a pair in decent condition at a reasonable price, just to test them out. I've tried various speakers in different price ranges; the most expensive I had for a short period were the Focal Kanta 2, but unfortunately, they didn't suit my taste. They were simply too sharp in sound, and perhaps a bit too large for my living room, as the bass often felt "boomy." The best speakers I've heard so far are the ones I have today, Chario Hiper 4 MK2. An older top model from Chario that plays absolutely fantastic, with a nice clear sound and tight, hard bass due to the push-pull configuration. It's a brand I can highly recommend if you haven't heard anything from them. They might not be widely known everywhere, but they make fantastic speakers.
Fantastic and you made me laugh, so funny you are chastising yourself for your English, if I could speak your language as good as you, I’d be very happy, but I love your patience and the fact that your fallible and show the mistakes. Excellent and you have helped many people! Thank You
Thank you for your comment! i try to be as honest as i can; we all make mistakes; no point in editing the video and trying to hide my mistakes! glad that it helped many people!
definitely you need a sharp, good tweezer, small and screw drivers and long nose pliers... as a minimum.
Год назад
Hello, i have these speakers and they are amazing! I already have to replace the tweeters, if it happens agains thanks to your video i will know what to do, i appreciate. Also i wonder if you recomend some kind of protector for them that don´t affect the sound quality. Greetings from Argentina!
They really are amazing! those beryllium mids and highs are the secret to super crisp audio! they are extremely fast-transient speakers, IIRC in the region of nearly 20dB per millisecond! I do not know of any protector that really works without affecting sound quality; maybe a fast blow fuse? the key to protect these (and many speakers) is NOT to drive the amplifier into clipping. Sound clipping is what kills them. Many times, it's better if you have a higher power amplifier as that will lessen the chance of clipping.
Hello great video, mine is optimus 300p its been years since it last lit up, what do you recommend should is just lit it up or it does require servicing as it has a lot of dust on it.
generally the only service it would require is a new leather pump seal and it's checkvalve as the washer that seals the vapourizer to the fount is made of lead and the washer that seals the control knob is made of graphite (IIRC). if i was in your position i would check if the fount is clean internally, pour some fresh kerosene and pump it up to get it pressured (with the knob pointing upwards ie. closed (if my memory serves me right). then check for any kerosene leaks. at times, the 550 and 1550 tend to leak from the shutoff valve (located inside the found) and thus kerosene would pour out from the jet at the top. To get to that seal you would need to disassemble the whole vapouriser unit, but it is not a big deal. if the pressure test is all well, you can proceed in lighting it up (the correct way ofc). if the fount is dirty internally i would proceed in cleaning it as the dirt particles can clog the vapouriser. hope this helps! happy lighting!
Hello! at last i have ended repairing of my marantz 1180 dc. there was a lot of problems, but at last it works. I have a question the transistors Q725 Q726 Q727 Q728 which placed on a small heatsinks are very hot, is it normal??? I heard some music about 20 min. and touched the small heatsink it was about 50-55 C in my amp no place for fan the power caps are very tall and filter board is fixed without screws and have not holes)))
glad you managed to fix it! well done!! bias on this thing is not settable; i didn't bother measuring it but the unit runs very hot even on idle, so i trust the bias on this thing is fairly high. They all run hot; which is why i installed that little fan. Can't say for those TO220 pre driver transistors but i can presume they run hot yes since the bias is presumably a little higher than the typical amp. i guess 45-50 degrees is what they run at. if their heatsink is too hot to touch, i would peek a look at the amp unit again. Do not forget to remove ALL that glue on the copper tracks which hold the varistors as that glue becomes conductive as it ages!
@@cbusuttil thanks bro! don't worry somebody cleaned up the glue before me and removed 2 varistors too)) so i used 4148 diodes instead and it works well. I can touch the heatsinks but they pretty hot so it worried me, may be some thing went wrong and I made a mistake. But if it is normal so I can calm down. Hm, may be the driver transistors are work in class a and power transistors in class B or AB so at small signal we have not distortions as in usual class B amps.
@@ilhomrembo9723 i suggest that you check the power output. if you don't have a dummy load, use a high power woofer, set a sine wave frequency generator on the aux input to 1khz, put a scope on the output and crank up the volume and check the sine wave shape. keep on cranking until you see the first signs of distortion, then read the ac voltage. use V2/R and you should have the power output more or less. if the sine wave is not distorted and it reaches the approximate output power that is displayed in the service manual, then all is fine. but they do run hot. even the output transistors run hot on idle... approx around 45 - 50 degress. Every person i talked to, who serviced one of these told me that these run hot. Mine was never serviced and ran hot on idle. after full replacement of semiconductors and power resistors, it still remained running hot. It's their design.
@@cbusuttil hello bro, at last I decide to install small fan to my amplifier too)) but don`t know how to connect him, because there is 50V DC voltage everywhere. how did you connect your pwm controller or is it works on high voltages?
@@ilhomrembo9723 what i did was, i bought a cheap 230v to 12v small power supply, say 0.5 - 1 amp maximum and connected it after the amplifier mains switch. the 12v output of this power supply was connected it to a small dc to dc step down regulator so that i can vary the speed of the fan....they are super cheap off ebay... i think both of them cost me some 7 euro shipped
I recently have acquired one myself I want to try get it running but having some trouble battery definitely dead but even I plug the power plug in but no start up
Beautiful amp - and saw your restoration thread - but why is the treble cranked so high? I have an 1180DC and all I have done on the EQ is a slight boost on bass. The highs are bright enough to hurt my ears!
It is a matter of preference, but yes you are right. In fact, right now treble and mid sit in the middle while the bass knob is a little higher! cheers!
I bought one of these that had many electrolytic capacitors and other components replaced by a very reputable technician.I am not a tech guy,just a musician who enjoys recording acoustic guitar.This unit has plenty of power,and it's tape loop function is very useful.The reproductions of acoustic fingerstyle;simply throught a pair of sm57's and a decent dual transformer preamp going into a Teac four trac produces the cleanest,quiet recordings.The only thing I would recommend is using a top cooling unit fan when using this amp.I am told this is normal for this class of amplifier.It''s good to know there's tech guys around like yourself.I basically have only one longstanding,honest,great tech guy whom I rely on.Just wanted to comment on this great Marantz integrated amp.Keep teaching!
Indeed it is very normal for these amps to run hot (seriously hot!).. the cooling fan helps a great deal but my suggestion would be not to set such cooling fan running at full power as lots of airflow will disrupt the dc offset. You have to find the sweet spot. my 2c.
Thsnk you so much! Your video helped me deal with one of many issues I found with a Mat 124 I bought on ebay that looked like it had been dropped down some stairs!
Hi! I've dismantled the camera following all parts of the video. I still cant figure out what's wrong. The camera can be wound to frame 1 where both shutter and crank fully jams. They can be partially moved by holding the shutter half way down but it does not advance either film or frame counter. Upon deconstruction the crank and shutter can be fully working for multiple shots in a row. it's not until the frame counter gears are engaged it has the problems. Please help :D
its difficult to help without seeing the camera with my own eyes etc... but i will suggest to look at those levers (from memory) behind the shutter... could be a bit bent... you have to investigate by closely looking at it and see where stuff is getting stuck.
I found one in a thrift store in the Netherlands. I saw your video, thank you for that. but i was wondering, how do you actually turn it on and off again? and is it safe for the living room or is it more something for the garage or shed? my video Does anyone know how this works and if it is safe to use it at home? ru-vid.comMOrMGB4LK0Y?feature=share
hello, can you help me. there is 4 pcts details on position q741, q742, q743, q744 named as varistor mv-1. on pcb they marked as diodes. one of them is lost, what can i place instead of it?
hello, i suggest you try to find some used ones on ebay as i, too had an issue with those when tried to replace them (mine were okay, but i wanted to replace them with something brand new). you can try to use some 1n4148. be aware that they are not as fast as the original mv-1, so biasing etc might take a while to settle etc...
@@cbusuttil thanks for answer. as i understand the mv 1 varistors works as termokompensation and must turn down the current, when the temperature of heatsink rises. am i right? but there is the termoresistor in parallel with it how does they must to work both? also i will try your recomendation with 1n4148
@@ilhomrembo9723 yes they reduce the bias. This also eliminates the possibility of a thermal runaway. I have the specs for the MV-1 varistor: P(mW)=40 If(mA)=50 Vf(V) min=0.58 typ=0.62 max=0.65 @If 10mA. (mV/°C)=1.9
@@ilhomrembo9723 i do hope you did not reverse polarity... if i were you i d be on the lookout for a set of second hand ones. 1122dc, 1152dc, 1180dc use the same mv-1
Hi How is the car doing? Was it worth it? Did you upgrade anything else or is it just an ECU remap? Mine is an s60 same engine. How did you got to 1bar? I think in my s60 I have a low pressure turbo running on 7-8 psi boost (0.5bar) at the moment.
Stock 2.0T can be remapped to approx 220 - 230 bhp. You up the boost to 1 bar by remapping it. I ve put a 14T turbo instead of the 12T and then we remapped it. It was well worth!
@@Sezon-xn9lp another note, if you are going to tune it yourself, do not tune it to acquire full boost below 3000 - 3500rpm else you risk bending the rods...pre 2005 ones are even more prone to this. I also wouldn't suggest going past 1 bar on stock internals. remember, this is the LPT not the HPT engine. goodluck!
@@cbusuttil ohhhh 😲 I thought the internals not much different to the high pressure turbo engines and easily could withstand that sort of power. Thank you for bringing this to my attention. 👍 My plan was, 14T turbo, s60r injectors, 3" straight pipe exhaust from catalytic converter and tune the car for that setup but now I might gonna just take it easy with less mods. 😔
@@Sezon-xn9lp No need for S60r injectors. T5 blue injectors are enough. 14T takes a tad longer to spool, so you might want to hybrid it with the 12T exhaust turbine. NO, the LPT does not have the same internals. The HPT before 2005 weren't much better either; they were prone to bend rods as well. The best 5 cyl engine you could possibly have is the B5244T5, from the 04->07 S60/V70 T5. That is better than the s60r engine.
Do you think you would ever be able to make a video on how to disassemble the shutter mechanism to repair? My shutter blades are really sticky but I don't want to risk taking it apart and not knowing how to put it back together and I can't find any videos on the Yashica MAT 124's shutter mechanism
Many times, the blades are dirty. i usually use some alcohol and a cotton bud and clean the blades from both sides. I disassembled the shutter mechanism on my other 124. It is a tedious job, but will try to do a video should i require disassembling the shutter mechanism.
@@cbusuttil That would be amazing! I think my issue is mostly just with the shutter blades, but if that isn't too much more of a hassle then maybe it would be nice as well. Thank you so much!
@@treyusher32 remove both inner and outer lens that are in front/rear of the shutter... and as I said, soak a cotton bud in alcohol and gently (GENTLY!!) clean the shutter leaves. repeat the process for a couple of times, Dont forget to fire the shutter between each cleaning....
