cool... gotta do this like... now... myself... only thing that I don't know is the alignment proceedure so the plastic don't grind on first blo/switch operation... since it is HOT I ASSUME turn the dial all way HOT but... ummmm
Fuel pump relay. It’s a manufacturer defect on these. It happened to me. You can by pass it with a 14 gauge wire. Save you from buying a whole new tippa system
Right I bought a bypass unit for it. May need to replace it because it's at it again (it's been a year)Before I knew to do that a mechanic told me I needed a new fuel pump....I spent $750+ and it did not fix it .. found a video on RU-vid and bought the bypass for $30....I do love these vehicles, but I think I will let it be someone else's headache.
Every thing that happend on the video happend to me on my 2011dodge grandcaravan i watched this video and i figure out that it was the battery i changed it and it turned on like nothing happend
@@jeffmuehlfelder7468 So was it the battery after all? Because I been having the same problems with mine for a while now. I got a new TIPM and its still having these random moments where it won't start. I usually disconnect the battery and tie the terminals together and take out the TIPM for a hour or overnight if I'm home and when I reconnect everything it startup fine and does good for a few days then it goes back to the randomly not starting problem
@@carlrosette1116 - yes it was the battery - while it tested good for voltage - it was low when tested for CCA (cold cranking amps). You can take it to Autozone or O'Reilly's to have the battery tested for CCA - an ordinary electrical tester will only give you the voltage.
Mine is doing this also. But someone said it was a relay for the fuel pump? I tried a different battery, but it still wouldn’t start. I even changed the terminals as well.
Start with putting the antenna straight up. Not meant to work horizontal. Polarity of antennas must match sending signal. Also try an external antenna. And readjust you squelch on chirp.
My 2007 Caravan would not start even though it had been running good previously. Solution was to replace the battery in the Key. This is very common because it is an antitheft feature and is designed to shut down the engine if the key is not present.
Once every week or two van would not crank, put a battery charger on it for 30 min. to an hour and it would crank. Today tried something new I saw on here that worked. Shook the shifter lever to make sure it knows the van is in park and it started right up. May need to replace or adjust the position switch on shifter if this continues.
I have the same issue for days . thinking about the battery did change the alternator and didn't WORK. I did find one problem when i look into the starter it was the small conection on too of the solenoid it was loose and cracked . Is working good now. Hope this help someone.
I am experiencing this very same thing. I turn the key, and nothing. I took my starter motor into o'riley and it tested fine. Before removing the starter motor this would occur once in a while but after a few attempts it'd fire up. Now it won't start at all. Had my battery checked and it tested fine as well. Have you found a solution??
turning the key from off to accessory position 3 times rapidly and then stopping will show you the engind DTC trouble codes on the display. You don't need a code reader with most cars to get the basic codes... you can do this which is sometimes referred to as the "key dance". So I was checking for trouble codes but none were displayed on the dashboard... just he flat lines across letting me know there were none.
Just FYI these have auto-start. You don't have to hold the key on start, just twist and let go, the van will take care of the rest and your starter won't grind if you twist the key while it's running.
The UV5R5 is the only Baofeng with DSP which filters out ignition noise. Yeasu and the other Japanese radios also have DSP. Your only other option is to get a mobile rig. The Chinese mobiles still pick up the same ignition noise but not nearly as bad as the handhelds.
great write up, did you ever find a fix? I've programmed several UV-5... series and 1st generations seemed to have problems with picking up electrical noise from many sources (car radio's internal computer, car's computer, speedometer, tire sensors, Uninteruptable Power Supplies,) leaking into the IF or squelch circuit. Even FM radio signals bouncing off of the human body.
Hey Jeff, my battery died so I replaced it. Still nothing no amperage going from battery as well. There was a recall on some wiring harness in the steering column not sure if that will fix it. I am perplexed may have to take it to the dealer.
UPDATE I jumped the starter relay and got the same click - no turn over. I tried to jump it with my other vehicle - same click. I tested the battery with a multimeter and it was still strong over 12.5. It was new last winter. I tested the ground by hooking the negative battery cable to the frame with a jumper cable. I cleaned and tightened both battery cables. I checked the hot wire at the starter and got 12.5 down there as well. I took a 24inch breaker bar and whacked at the starter a few times and still just got the click. Unfortunately the way Dodge designed this engine the starter is almost impossible to reach without taking half the engine bay apart. I found a couple replys to some other videos suggesting the starter can be changed by only removing the front motor mount. I started to do that and it started to rain and I was outside on the street so I put it all back together. I was able to get a better angle tapping on starter with front mount partially out of way but still could not jump the starter with a screwdriver or get at the lead that brings power when the key is turned. Anyways I put it all back together and tried starting it one more time and the starter made a brief high pitched whining noise and then started right up. Drove straight to mechanic who could find nothing wrong. It's been a few days now and its started perfectly every time. My guess is that it's the beginning of the end for that starter and I'm going to get stranded somewhere else sometime soon if it's not changed. UPDATE 2: got stranded today. Just a click again. Tried to jump it from another vehicle. Got the same thing again, just a click (starter engaging but not spinning). Tried tapping on the starter, nothing. Called for a tow and the tow truck driver tried to start it one more time and said battery sounded low. Of course it was by then with me having been trying to start the car unsuccessfully for 2 hrs. Anyways he got out a 1500 cca jumpstart battery pack and hooked it up and it started right up. So now I'm lost. Did he just happen to get lucky on that start like I did last week, or is there really an issue with my battery even though it was showing 12.5 volts last week? Or is there a bad ground at the starter that the higher CCA battery pack was able to overcome? I was trying to test that when I gave up the first time because I couldn't get at the thing. I have seen somewhere on RU-vid, Eric the car guy I think, where he tests a battery for cca and it comes up short while still showing 12 volts. So I find it hard to believe it could be that but who knows. I called Oreilly auto where I bought the battery and they said it's under warranty still for another month but to give me a new battery on my warranty they have to test mine to determine it has failed. I didn't clarify with them exactly how they test it. RESOLVED: it was the battery all along... not enough CCA cold cranking amps - I couldn't believe it would be the battery as it was relatively new and still showing 12.5 amps when I would test it... but have not had a single problem since replacing the battery... thank God for the warranty.
Alright so, I took yesterday off frustrated. Today went out cleaned everything tighten everything took serpentine belt off to see if any thing was seized nothing. Borrowed a neat little amp meter that you just place on top of the red wire from battery. It would slightly move when I tried to start and then nothing. Tried on my other vehicle and move a lot. So since I changed this last Christmas and it was a complete pain I wasn't interested in taking it out to check. However, I figured it had to be so took the starter out and it is completely seized nothing but a click. Can't even turn it with vice grips. So hopefully tomorrow I put another one in and it fires up. To be honest it took me less than an hour to get it out. Jacked car up removed motor mount. took both mounting bolts out of starter, Rotated starter out of housing and took wires off and it came right out a little tight up against the cat but it came out I hope it goes back in as easy. If will let you know but I am a little happy that it was seized at least it could be the reason.
@@paulshanks7183 got stranded today. Just a click again. Tried to jump it from another vehicle. Got the same thing again, just a click (starter engaging but not spinning). Tried tapping on the starter, nothing. Called for a tow and the tow truck driver tried to start it one more time and said battery sounded low. Of course it was by then with me having been trying to start the car unsuccessfully for 2 hrs. Anyways he got out a 1500 cca jumpstart battery pack and hooked it up and it started right up. So now I'm lost. Did he just happen to get lucky on that start like I did last week, or is there really an issue with my battery even though it was showing 12.5 volts last week? Or is there a bad ground at the starter that the higher CCA battery pack was able to overcome? I was trying to test that when I gave up the first time because I couldn't get at the thing. I have seen somewhere on RU-vid, Eric the car guy I think, where he tests a battery for cca and it comes up short while still showing 12 volts. So I find it hard to believe it could be that but who knows. I called Oreilly auto where I bought the battery and they said it's under warranty still for another month but to give me a new battery on my warranty they have to test mine to determine it has failed. I didn't clarify with them exactly how they test it.
@@LetsCountSheeps Yes... it was the battery all along... not enough CCA cold cranking amps - I couldn't believe it would be the battery as it was relatively new and still showing 12.5 amps when I would test it... but have not had a single problem since replacing the battery... thank God for the warranty.
Ok so I took the starter out and it was seized and a wire had melted inside. Got it fixed put back in and click again. Took it out bought a new starter put it in and click then everything started going lights on the dash windshield wipers etc. Test battery shot. I will pick a new one up and start over. Let ya know when I get installed and what happens.
I got the same thing yesterday. Driving along and just died. Going through now. I will let you know what mine was when I figure it out. Maybe battery. I replaced starter last winter. Or alternator I am thinking making battery dead.
So I have the same problem with ALL my Chinese radios in my 2013 GMC Yukon, no joke I have about 12 handhelds and mobiles. So I THINK the issue is with friction and grounding because in car engine is running but parked I have no noise or popping, but as soon as the vehicle stands rolling it pops, I have tried different antenna's too. I thought it was a grounding issue but handhelds are free form so I am going to try a ferite loop and see if that works then try dragging a ground strap.
@@echoMagnolia bought a yaesu ft3d solved my problem. lol had a problem and threw money at it. gt-3tp was better though. didnt have the static issue. i just dont like how you cant buy extended battery for the gt radio. its a completely different shape.
I have the same problem with my UV-5R and UV-82HP. I tried to explain the problem to BaofengTech 3 times and they were absolutely useless. They actually did a copy/paste from www.miklor.com to answer my questions which tells me they didn't even bother to read my description of the problem completely. I've searched the internet countless times and have had no luck. I even sent an e-mail to BaofengTech before buying the UV-82HP to find out if it had this same static noise as the UV-5R and they answered, "No". They are liars trying to sell faulty equipment. After my third attempt to describe the trouble to them, they refereed me to baofengradio.com/en/. That was their way of passing the buck to get rid of me. I sent baofengradio.com an email yesterday and am waiting for a reply. If I get anywhere with them I'll let you guys know. But I wouldn't count on it.
I also had this problem with the one uv82 I tried... I have a uvb5 that doesn't do it at all and sounds better than all the other uv5r bff8 variations I've tried... but it doesn't have a keypad lock and it holds 27 less channels and so nobody wants it either
I was wondering if you ever found a fix for the UV-5R crackling problem. I'm going crazy trying to figure this out. It's happening on both of my radios, the UV-5R & UV-82HP. Baofeng Tech is useless and Baofeng China's email addresses don't even respond.
I've had the same issue with all 3 baofeng radios I have uv5r uv82 and uv5b. Just a characteristic of $30 radios I guess. Do u have it set to wide or narrow, just out of curiosity.
I've tried both wide and narrow... they do it both ways... I have had a lot more luck switching to the uv5rax+ model and now the bff8+ model. The crackle.is virtually gone on these newer models. It's more of a very minor interference now. But I still have plenty of these old uv5r models that nobody wants... they only sound good on vhf or simplex
I have had the same problem before but mine is usually worse on vhf than uhf. And it only happens when I am inside a vehicle or inside buildings with lots of obstructions. Handheld two way radio's are not intended for being used inside cars in my opinion unless your using external antenna with a good ground.
did the new one fix it? I have a brand new BF-F8HP with the same problem (geiger counter when moving, but only seems to happen when i'm listening to my wife's radio transmitting on any FRS channel (uhf)).
