Hi there! I'm an analogue photography nerd who sometimes uses a digital camera. On this channel, I'll try and share my love for photography. The main focus will be in the field videos, mostly landscape stuff. In between, you can expect the odd video from the office, where I'll share my thoughts on gear, technique, process, etc.
I really liked the shot of the tree. The tonality seemed.... nice and smooth. You said you used T-max developer. What time and dilution did you use? I have a roll to develop, trying to decide how to approach it. I did photograph some contrast scenes.
Thank you! I did use T-Max developer, I've since switched over to Rodinal. And I do prefer Rodinal semi-stand for most, as it works as a compensating developer. This though, was developed in the standard dilution t-max and rotary-development in my jobo-tank. I'm not sure about the time, I think I did 9 min. But I forgot to note it...
I have great ambitions of being super careful, but more often than not, I end up just winging it and hoping for the best. Luckily BnW negative is often fairly forgiving :)
Thank you for sharing. As my question of today is exatly what yours was at time of doing this video, I watched carefully both the 1st and 2nd parts. The 3 unscientific questions represent pretty much the way we amateur enthusiast think. I liked the way you oragnized the video. I know it is not so easy to push this whole provess through. As for your conclusion, sounds like a well established and fact based one. Finally, the locations and weather conditions 'talked to me' as I visited the Ludvika/Grangesberg reagion on business several times to do services for the Julmust/Trocadero bottling industry. Brgds.
Glad you enjoyed it! I don't know if I'm very scientific in my approach, I'm just a simple enthusiast, as you said :) I do highly recommend the naked photographer and his film comparison, for a bit more scientific approach. I think he done a stellar job to compare almost all BnW films on the market. Ludvika (and the whole of Dalarna) is beautiful! I do wish we had a bit more snow down here in the south. Have a great day!
I think I've figuered out my workflow for Darktable and Negadoctor, at least for Black and White. I created a Blog Post with a how-to of how I do it. It's available here: www.thatbeardedguy.photography/2024/08/23/how-i-invert-my-negatives-in-darktable-using-negadoctor/
Hi Oscar, This is a brilliant video for me! You have explained the process you use very well and shed light on an area I was "lost" in. I am looking at the Lobster film holders you suggested as well. A HUGE Thank You for your hard work which helps us out here that have never scanned film!
Thank you for the kind comment. Glad it was of some sort of help! The lobster holder looks brilliant. I haven't tried one myself, just came across it on Etsy. But I'm intrigued, and might order one myself just to try it out.
Great to hear! I actually just cancelled my Adobe subscription, and switching over to Darktable. It's a bit of a learning curve, but I'm super impressed as well :)
Re-uploaded video, due to a missleading statement in the original upload, regarding the Essential Film Holder. For details about what happened, I've made a blog post that you can find here: www.thatbeardedguy.photography/2024/08/20/i-was-wrong-about-the-essential-film-holder-and-why-i-decided-to-re-edit-an-video/
I cant find again the video where you use Darktable. Im testing it with the module NegaDoctor, it is freaking awesome. What was the title of the video ?
I know you already found it, just leaving a bit of a trace if someone reading your comment is wondering which video it is. It can be found here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Dz3Lp1Y-YUw.html
I'm inclined to agree. With the right expectation it's great. One needs to remember Instax is fairly limited in resolution power, and Instax wide isn't that much bigger than 6x9 (Instax wide is 10,6x8,4). If one wants the best colour photos, MF is probably a more sensible option (rollfilm-backs are available for LF-cameras). But it is an easy way of shooting some colour with a LF-camera, just because its cool and fun :)
Hi Oscar, I may look into the Jobo system as I know its very popular and loved in Europe. I'm using a Nikor stainless steel double 120 tank taking nearly 1000 ml per two rolls so with the rotary process I'd get my expenditure back. However, I tend to over agitate so I've got to work on that! Do you use constant rotary action and reduce the development time by 10-15% like Adox recommendation? I just ordered 8 rolls of CHS 100 II and Adox to try out as my 100 speed film. Always liked Adox and Agfa film and papers. Have to shoot Adox CHS 100 II?
Hi Stephen! The Jobo-system is nice, but expensive. I have one of the smaller tanks, it can hold 6 sheets of 4x5 or 9x12. I do rotary development on a homemade rotary base. I usually go with the times for constant agitation found on one of the big dev. charts, if it's available. Otherwise I just reduce the dev. times with 10-20 % I've gotten good results on LF, but unfortunately had some issues with some rather ugly streaks on 120 that I never figured out. So nowadays I do LF in the Jobo drum, and 135 & 120 in my Paterson with normal agitation or semi-stand. The Jobo drum is quite thirsty for normal agitation, mine take ~1,5 litres for normal agitation but only 275 ml for rotary development. Another option for LF development is the tanks from Stearmanpress, they look really nice. I went with the Jobo-system because I shoot both 4x5 an 9x12 cm, wich is supported native with the Jobo-drum. However I do think I'm going to order the tray developer from Stearmanpress, as it supports 4x10 and looks easier than doing normal tray development (a bit pricey though). I'm also a big fan of Adox, I think they do really cool things. I have shoot CHS100 II on 135, can't really remember any details more than that I liked it. And I do have a few rolls of it in my fridge , that I ordered not that long ago. Thinking of picking up a pack of it in 4x5 on my next order run of film. All the best! EDIT: I feel like I should add that I don't think it's the Jobo-tanks fault that I got some streaking on my 120-film. Probably down to uneven rotation, or something else that I did wrong. Nowadays I mostly shoot handheld and I'm fairly loose with metering on 120, therefore I've switched to semi-stand rodinal (wich is a good compensating dev. method) as my default developing method for 120. I therefore never actually figured out what went wrong with my 120-rolls (never done 135 in the jobo, as it only holds one roll).
The fabulous story of the Ansel Adams picture "Moon and Halfdome" Taken with Hasselblad Sonnar C 250mm and Orange filter ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-o0Q0lZ3sYag.htmlsi=PwuioBSCA06G9m3R
Oskar, Thank you for all the hard work you do and sharing! I'm having good luck with Fomapan 400 4 X5 in Rodinal(Blazinol) 1:50 with their published reciprocity failure times. I tried 120 HP5 same developer and published development times and got some unusable over exposures. Could be I'm over agitating and/or not being consistent. I don't mind long exposures either in most exposures.
Great to hear you're getting along with Fomapan and Rodinal. I find it an excellent combination, and very affordable. I have very little experience with HP5, as I'm not a big fan of it. Not that it's a bad film, on the contrary, it's just not to my taste. Rodinal can however be a bit temperamental at times. My theory is that's because it's highly diluted. I've personally switched over to 1-25 as my default dilution, but the Jobo drum I use only requires 275 ml of chemicals. Which means at 1-50 the actual amount of dev is very little, and even at 1-25 it's stretching it (I've read somewhere you shouldn't use less than 5 ml/roll or sheet). I'm getting better and more consistent results at 1-25, and Rodinal is still very cheap so I don't mind using that little extra chemicals. But as you said it could also just be over agitation. Have a great weekend! And as always thank you for the kind comment
nice video, fyi, you can get a 90 Degree prism (PM-90) which allows you to get higher, without the neck strain which may help a bit, and besides, you can switch between them anytime, its just a mechanical component, not integrated into the metering system, as it doesn't have one (you use a PM-E 90), its the 205Fcc that has it all in-built, but nice explanation of the scene at 12:34. One other way to get contrast in the shot, or to help with shadow details, is to use a ND filter, if you had the 205Fcc the contrast control would also do the same thing (in Z mode).
Thanks for your comment, and excellent input! I'm aware of the prism finder, I want one, however not enough to pay the price for one. ;) I enjoy the waist level finder, and would probably still use that most of the time. Someday maybe... I've since recording this video started using the hassy more handheld, and landscape stuff on a tripod is nowadays primarily done on LF. I've locked at a 200-series camera in the past, but coulden't afford. But in my mind the most refined and decked out of the Hasselblads. Then again I do believe it was the last series before they switched over to the H-series of cameras. The H-series for me lost some of that Hasselblad charm.
one other reason for reciprocity calculations, even with the shooting you do, is any filter factor, or Bellows ext. factor, can move a 1/2 or 1/4 sec. exposure time into this area, esp. for LF, as wide lenses on landscapes can easily add a lot of bellows factor quick, as 1.5 ish times 65 or 75 is way less than 1.5x 150 or 210 certainly if you find yourself doing a macro with them, or close up subjects, necessitating long bellows draw.
This is very true. Happens surprisingly seldom for me though. But important factors to consider, and keep in mind especially when shooting Fomapan 100. As it falls off a cliff fairly fast.
This is really interesting! I eyeballed a shot on Velvia 100 recently, ended up doubling the indicated time from 30mins to 1 hour, and managed to get a nearly perfect exposure. It's really interesting how it can vary so much between stocks, I wonder if the thickness/quality of the photosensitive material on the film affects it a lot
It is a bit of an oddity that they differ so much. I have no idea why, though, but you might be on to something there. Btw. Kinda jealous that you had some velvia, I've never had the opportunity to shoot that. And nowadays it's almost impossible to get hold off.
That's true! Love myself som Agfa-film. I'm not sure in what capacity they still are around as. My understanding is that some ended up being bought by adox, but I still see some films branded Agfa. And Rollei RPX, is supposedly the same as Agfa RPX. German brands and their licensing, it always makes things so confusing. 😆
From my total random use of pinhole cameras and Fomapan 100. I dont expose more than 10 minutes as it should be like 32 minutes and it seems to have no effects above 10 min, but it's random. You said Rodinal, Im looking forward about stand dev or half stand
The effect might be tapering off at some point. I haven't read anything about it though. But an interesting observation, nonetheless. I've actually ordered a pinhole camera from Ondu, so we'll see how it goes for me :) I do semi-stand rodinal for most of my street photography (as I'm very loose with metering there), and happy with the results. Haven't tried it for long exposures though.
Did I miss anything, please leave a comment! And of course there's apps avalible for reciprpcity failure as well, I personally use "light meter" on Android. That contain some charts for calculating compensation for reciprocity failure. I didn't mention it in the video, but reciprocity failure also occurs for really fast shutter speeds. In most cases it's a non-issue as the cameras shutter rarely is fast enough for that to occur, but in case of flash photography it might become a factor. Anyhow as mentioned in the video, this started as an blog-post wich you can find on my homepage. There you'll also find all sources used in this video. Link: www.thatbeardedguy.photography/2024/06/25/about-reciprocity-failure-bnw-film/
The last time I heard, Agfa APX was being made in/at Ilford. I used to be a great "devourer" of APX, but then I discovered Foma 100 in 120 and that was my (so much used word) "gamechanger"... Too bad that Foma does not have the Ortho 400 on 4x5... I would love to see that!
Agreed, I would love to see some more ortho film on 4x5. And we are the same, considering how cheap foma is, it's great. The falloff in reciprocity failure and the somewhat ruffer grain is its biggest drawbacks, but it's by far outweight by its price and general performance.
By the way, reciprocity failure only happens on Analog. This has to do with the chemicals itself and they composition of them. They can easily "worn out" on the very first seconds, meaning that a chemical with 10 second exposure DOES NOT capture light as a brand new fresh one, that's why there is this "failure".
This is very true, thank you for mentioning it in the comments! I do go into more detail about reciprocity failure in my blog-post, as I didn't want to go into details about it in the video. However, I could have been clearer in the video that this only affects us analogue nerds and our precious film ;D
@@O.Persson funny thing. I use film for myself and digital professionally (I'm one of the photographers on one agency of the European Commission) and I never look at it as a "film nerd". I actually have a tendency to see it as others being "digital nerds". I like the way they discuss between themselves that camera X has 800 autofocus points (when in reality you just need one and the camera only focus on a specific length), or they debating themselves which photo camera has the best video...
😆 that's one way of seeing it. And I agree it's fairly funny hearing people complain and discuss especially AF performance. And I'm like AF is to good today, it's no fun. Maybe I should just buy a bigger and slower larger format instead :D I did photography semi-professionally for a while, a small side-thing. All on digital (of course). Then the pandemic hit, and well since I've more or less moved over completely to doing it as a hobby and only analogue stuff.
All my film holders have a number: 1-A, 1-B, 2-A, 2-B, etc... I have a note book with a chart that I make up telling me what film is in what holders. Then when I shoot a sheet, I make a note which gives the individual sheet a SN based upon the date (Month/day/year,) a sheet shot today would be: 062524-1, then the 2nd sheet would be: 062524-2, etc... I also make notes about the exposure, where I was, what I was shooting etc. So my notebook becomes a written record of everything I do. I can also make notes about development needed, i.e. +1 -1 etc. When the chart fills up and all the film in all the holders is shot, I make a new chart on a new page. It really helps keeping the large format film straight. And yes, the reciprocity failure of Fomapan is deadly. After 1 second it falls off a cliff. I also get a lot of hard green specs on my Fomapan, so I don't use it all that much anymore. The CAT Labs has been better for cheaper 4x5 film.
Seems like you have a quite robust system. Thanks for sharing! I myself slack on my notes keeping, all my film holders are marked and I do have a fairly decent system in place. But I keep forgetting to take proper notes once out in the field. Especially when I'm juggling video as well, even though it's a bit of a contradiction as that's probably when I should take extra care. I've heard good things about CatLabs, but it's almost double the price of Fomapan here in the EU (at least on retrocamera.be). And more inline with pricing of Adox, which I do like (not shot it in LF yet though). I like Foma for the simple reason they provide most of the different photography materials, like film, paper, chemicals etc. All have performed well enough for me. It's not as good as the Ilford stuff, but considering it's generally half price compared to ilford it's hard to beat price/value wise. I'm going to switch over to Fomapan 200 for LF though, it's already my favourite in the smaller formats. And I just finished of my last sheets of Fomapan 100, so next order will be Fomapan 200 and some Adox CHS. Reciprocity usually isn't a big factor for my kind of photography. It's rare I get exposure over 1 s, with a 100 or 200 -speed film. Thanks for the support and the useful comment.
Thanks for the reference to NCS sheet "film". That looks like some cool sheet. I'll have to try a box some time soon. And as for incompetence I won't tell you how many times I've mis-loaded a sheet of film and ruined it while trying to replace the dark slide. Keep having fun and keep making videos.
I want to add that 30s for a 4s measured exposure isn't out of this world. Fomapan 100 would be in that ballpark. But it was very apparent that it was too long for NoColorStudio nbr. 12. After editing this video, I jumped into the rabbit hole of reciprocity failure. If you're interested in my findings, I made a blog post about it: www.thatbeardedguy.photography/2024/06/25/about-reciprocity-failure-bnw-film/
I just got an ikoflex IIa today, and I found out the little red window in 3:00 on the left, but the 6x6 format shows on the center of the 120 rolls, the "1" in your video is the "1" of the 6x9 format. have you been using it this way with no trouble?
You're right, I've never thought about it, but that should be for 6x9. But yes, I've shoot multiple rolls with the camera (maybe 20-50 rolls) and never had any issues att all. All have been loaded as shown in the video, and I haven't noticed that the frames been missaligned on the negatives. It's also how it's described in the manual, wich I actually have for this camera :) Small warning though there's multiple versions of the Ikoflex, and some even share the same name, so that's something to watch out for. Hope it was helpful, and the best of luck with the camera!
one tip, the C lenses do have 1/2 stops, in the F stop dial, aka to set 1/2 EV values, and for the shutter issue, thats why we use CF lenses, so we set the body on C for leaf shutter use, and for focal plane shutter set the body to a speed, then the lens to F, all done, no interloping of one system into the other, so no cut off exposures.
Thanks for the input! This old video still lives, I must admit my earlier videos contains the odd miss here and there. As you wrote, you can set the f-stop to half stops (I'll add in a correction), thank you for pointing it out! I agree about the CF-lenses, they are better suited for the 2000/200-series of cameras. My 50 mm is a CF-lens, much easier to use and match the camera better. However, it must be said that, the c-lenses are cheaper by some margin. Quality wise they are excellent, if one can live with the short comings and in some cases the lesser coatings. Have a great day!
Yes I did, sorry for the late reply. I've been on vacation and tried staying of Social Media/E-mail etc. Sometimes I just need a digital break :) It was great seeing though! What a great letter from Ansel himself.
Hi Oscar, Love your images. Did you keep using HP5? I just developed my first four 4x5 negatives after 45 years and am happy so far with three of them. I used Foma 400 in Blazinol (Rodinal). My paper should be her tomorrow from fotoipex which I chose Adox contact fb paper(I forgot the name). Hopefully I’ll have a few contact prints in within a week but then I’m not sure how to share them. I may have to invest in the pixl-latr.
Thank you! I've abandoned HP5 for now. I'm never satisfied with that film when I get the negatives. Technically speaking, it's one of the best and most versatile films out there; I just don't like it. Kenmare 400, on the other hand, gave me some of my favourite negatives from a camera ever. I ran a roll of that through my 35mm camera and pushed the film one stop (winter time). And as I'm writing this I'm ordering another pack of Foma 200 ;) That's great to hear! Looking forward to seeing some of the results (I do follow you on IG). I have some old Adox paper that still has some life in it, and I love it. I haven't tried the new stuff. But in general, I've been happy with whatever Adox produces. I've tried some of their (new) chemicals and films, and I'm sure the paper is also excellent. Hopefully, you get some digitalisation going; many options are available. Keep it simple, and as I think I mentioned, I would seriously consider the lobster film holder (found on Etsy). I keep hovering over the buy button for that. Even though I have the Pixl-ltr (for 4x5) and the Essential Film Holders (for 35/120-film). Neither is perfect, but they work well enough (and are fairly priced). I'm also considering buying an Epson V800/850 to save some desk space, as I keep leaving my tripod and scanning equipment up. It just doesn't look very nice in my office. All the best!
I own a Lomograflok for my Technika, I find the Instax film tricky on hi dynamic scenes and don't really like the colors compared to good old Polaroid 4x5 packs that no more exist
Agreed :) I never had the opportunity to try Polaroid 4x5, but I trust you own that :P As said in the video, I preferred the monochrom version, but then again I'm a bit of a BnW fanatic.
Yes Sir, I believe you'd like her work! And, yes I enjoy your videos and will watch them all as you're voice and wonderful accent is calming, humble and good music. I am learning. lot the way you observe, use a view "gadget" or the camera handheld first then mount on tripod, etc...Your enthusiasm and dedication on just getting out there is very encouraging! Thank You!
I made an honest mistake and accidentally calculated for each pack you buy of Instax containing 10 frames per pack. This is true, but they are sold in packs of two. As added as a flash card, in reality, I would say it's about the same cost (instax vs. fompan 100). (That excludes printing, and scanning the negatives at home, and assuming you already have the dev. gear.) I want to add that my point was that it's not significantly cheaper to shoot Instax over BnW negative film. If you are interested, here's the math (I also made a blog post about it) 50 sheets of Foma 100, incl. Vat costs €42.5 Cost per sheet Foma: 42.5 / 50 = €0.96 Jobo alpha developer and fixer, incl. Vat: €37 Developing cost per sheet: 37 / 50 = €0.74 (It will do 50 sheets according to specs) Total cost for fomapan 100 per sheet: 0.96+0.74 = €1.69 Cost of a 2 x 10 Instax Wide (colour) pack, incl. VAT: €13.42 Cost of Instax Wide per sheet: 13.42 / 20 = €1.35 Of course, the cost of developing will differ depending on your choice of chemicals and how many sheets you do each run. Another example: Rodinal 500 ml costs ~15 € I use 10 ml per dev run, and I can do 6 sheets on each dev. run*. 15/50=0,3 €/dev run 0,3/6=0,05 €/sheet Fomafix 500 ml costs ~ 7 € Mixes 1:5, and 1 l of working solution will do 17 sheets (according to specs). 500 ml will give 3 l of working solution 7/(3x17)= 0,14 €/sheet Dev cost Rodinal & fomafix: 0,14+0,05=0,19 € Foma 100 (still): 0,96 €/sheet Tot: 0,19+0,96€ = 1,15 €/sheet All prices are EU prices incl. VAT. (taken from fotoimpex or retrocamera, which are my resellers of choice) The cost of development will vary greatly. You can often stretch chemicals beyond specified numbers (at your own risk, of course). I would say a good approximation would be 1-3 €/sheet for development alone. On top of that comes the film cost. Fomapan 100 is the cheapest film I've found, and even so, it works beautifully and is what I shoot the most. So for me I would say the cost is about the same. If you instead shoot, for instance, slide film and have it lab-developed, that's another story. That I don't want to think about, luckily I'm a B&W fanatic :D Hope that was helpful! And feel free to correct me if I made a mistake! * note that using less than 5ml rodinal per sheet is not recommended. I do use, as stated, 10 ml for 6 sheets. So, I'm stretching the developer slightly. If you use 5 ml/sheet instead, that would be 0,15 €/sheet. And that would mean a total of 1,25 €/sheets instead Side note: I use tap water as a stop bath, and the final rinse is done with tap water and a few drops of rinse aid (for dishwashers). This is not included in my calculations. EDIT: I cleared up the formatting and the language.
Thanks for the tip for the Louisiana Channel! First video was Kristen Klein from, I think, Denmark - amazing work with mostly 35mm and some 6X6 film. She's not afraid of grain yet her landscapes and detailed studies are fantastic.
I haven't seen that episode yet, perfect as breakfast tv :D Sounds like she's a photographer I would like very much. In general Denmark have some great photographers, and I personaly love the melody of the Danish language. But than again it might be some childhood nostalgia from growing up watching danish TV (growing up close to the danish border and all). On another note, you must soon seen all my videos. I love the support :)
I love the last two as well with the 50mm, I think? I seem to remember when you teated Ilford Delta 120 that you took an image at f16 and f22 but I done remember you commenting if you did get refraction on the f22 image. I also forgot if you shot with the normal or another lens.
Thank you! The last images where with the 50 mm as well. I can't say I noticed any big issues with difractions at f/22 with the 80 mm. I would say that it preforms best at f/8-f/16, but I don't hesistate using f/22.
Definitely didn't turn out mundane, very nice photographs. I lie the tonality you are getting . You have totally encouraged me to shoot in less than perfect weather - actually it appears perfect from your results. Don't worry, I won't hold you responsible for my Hasselblad but they are made to use. Also enjoyed seeing you in your darkroom working away. I can develop film now but printing will have to wait until I plywood/epoxy tray sink (after my wife's sewing table is built!;). I may order some RC paper for quick contacts but have stayed away from them due to RC's longevity or lack of it according to AA and his assistants Peter Ross and John Sexton - also great websites from these two nature photographers. Having said that I have some RC prints from the 70's that are holding up fine! Thank You!
Thanks! Great to hear! Bad wheater is often the best wheater for photography. Perhaps not always for the gear though ;) Regarding RC paper I do prefer the look and feel of fiber, but RC is much faster and easier to use. According to a couple of old books from Pär Lundqvist (Swedish photographer who wrote a lot of books about darkroom stuff back in the days), he claims RC papers longivity problem was mostly a myth with "modern papers". With that said I do have a local exhibition (street photography actually) comming up in september, I'll probably print on fiber paper for that. I'm thinking of ordering some Bergger Prestige Variable CB, that I haven't tried but I have high hopes.
@@O.Persson Wow, Congratulations on your exhibit in September - what a Birthday present! Looking forward to that video! I am starting to think that Par Lundgvist is correct and the bias toward RC may be unfounded. I think it was co new in the 1970's and RC has probably improved since then as well. It is a lot easier to develop I will try out a batch at least for contacts and try to locate Mr. Lundgvist books although they may not be in English! I received a letter from Ansel Adams concerning RC back in the 70's, which I treasure, and will sed to your email if that's okay? Not sure how to post here.
I don't think Pär's books ever was translated to English. However his book "Foto min Hobby" (translates to, as you probably can guess, "photo my hobby") is pretty much the standard for learning film-photography, and was used by many schools and photo clubs back in the days. I remember it vaguely from my school days, I did take a class in photography and film was still the norm. How cool to have a letter from the master himself, I would love to read it, feel free to e-mail me (the email can be found on the front page of my channel).
@@O.Persson Yes, I looked him up and only one book was in English but it was more about Line work whatever that is. I am going to try and learn a bit of Swedish. We have been watching Scandinavian mystery shows like Backstrom, Wallender, Rebeka Martinsson, etc... and find them very, very well done. We hardly watch any North American TV, I generally don't like much from here, and watch UK and European shows. Yes, I'll email you the letter right now. Keep in mind I was 20 at the time and I believe AA was just being kind to a youngster as he was and encouraging me... which he did!
Nice to see how you edit is LR very carefully, not overdone and especially when you "soften" the hyper sharpness if digital (one reason I shoot film only now) the colour beach image. I think you accomplished your goal of surreal for the beach:)! I also love the birches which we have here as well as stunted (due to weather) balsam fir and considered Eastern Hyper-oceanic Barrens Ecoregion very similar to Northern Scotland and Lower Norway. We also pick Lingonberries or what we cal Partridge berries and Bakeapples (I believe called Cloudberries everywhere else). The soils are mostly peat with sphagnum moss 2-10 metres deep. You got some great shots of woodland and beach so success!
Thanks Stephen! Didn't know lingonberries where a thing in Canada, the more you learn. Cloudberries I had to google the translation for, that's really rare in my area, fairly common up north though. Love me some cloudberry jam :D The images from that day where some of my best with the X-H2, and probably the second to last time I used the X-H2 for photography. I also photographed a dance event, but after that it's been all analouge. My initial idea was to use the H2 for colour and do B&W on film, but instead I've became alomst exlusive BnW film photographer. Cheers!
@@O.Persson Hi Oskar, We pick Bakeapples aka Cloudberries in August so I'll see about sending you a sealed jar of our Cloudberry jam for your Birthday in September! We pick Lingonberries AKA Partidgeberries in September usually after a frost (like like the veg Brussel sprout, they are sweeter after a frost). Just had a Lingonberry muffin from my sister in -law from last years berries (we freeze some for baking and future jam every year).
Beautiful images, the last one shown looks like Platinum print:) I think I will put some red tape on the knob for my G2 head quick release knob! Glad your Has was okay.
The 500's are the famous camera, and the bigger legend. However the first system camera from Hasselblad was a focal plane shutter, so I like to think that the 2000-series is Hasselblad return to it's roots :)
Hi Oskar, Great Video with lots of good stuff ti inspire - Thanks! Being on the cold North Atlantic in Newfoundland and having both shoulder with rotate cuff tears due to slipping on ice, I was wondering which proper boots you have from Lundhag and if they have soft rubber soles? I like the LL Bean's made in Maine however don't find the soles grippy enough and only use when the snow and ice is gone - can be May!:(. I mainly use Gumleaf wellies fro the UK I picked up when over there which are very good but not the best support. On gloves, the Hestras look interesting with the prebent fingers for camera use. I have a good insulted winter pair but they must be taken off to use my cameras. Are the Hestras the Ergo GripActive - they are available in Canada. Many Thanks!
Hi Stephen, As always thank you for your kind comment! Regarding my hiking boots, I use a pair of Lundhags Tjakke Mid. Great boots, took a while to break in though. They use vibram outersoles, decent grip on most terrain. I do know Lundhags sell a couple of model specificly made for winter and ice & snow. Lundhags are very well regarded boot manufacturer here in Sweden, especially among old-school hikers and scout-leaders. They are heavy, rubust and will last a life time (and two). However, they aren't for everyone. My partner, she never got along with em when she had a pair. Personaly I've been pleased with the Tjakke, however I think I'll replace them with a pair of Forrest II boots this autumn. As I like the idea of a 1-layer boot instead of the 3-layer boot I have now. Lundhags are also most famous for their 1-layer (sheel boots). None of the lundhags uses goretex, instead they are partly rubrised. A soloution I much prefer over Gore-tex (which I avoid in general). But I'm really no outdoor expert, I'm at core a city-rat that fairly recently (~5-10 years) discovered the great outdoors. You're absolutly correct, I'ts the Hestra Ergo Grip. They come in a pletora of different variants, all very similar, I think mine where the "Ergo Grip Tactility". I loved them, sadly they broke this year, after I've had them for about 3 years. They aren't the warmest, works well in tempertures around 0-10 °C. If it got colder than that I switched to a pair of "Hestra - Windstopper Pull Over Mitt" with a liner underneth. They are the kind where you can fold away the top, wich works ok. Side-note: I live down in the damp and rainy south of Sweden, not sure if that's better or worse then snow in May ;) All the best!
@@O.Persson Hi Oskar, I do like the idea of a boot that you can layer as needed which seem to be the idea of the one layer boot. I have emailed Lundhags to ask what their grippiest boot is. This is my main criteria. I found another company from Sweden; IceBug with Michelin special winter rubber soles and liked the traditional look of the Adak but I think its lined. For Newfoundland, they would probably be fine 9 months+ of the year. I wear heavy socks from Sept. - June! Have you seen them? I don't like Gore-tex either, mainly the aesthetics of it which I'm sure is silly of me. Well, I grew up in Kentucky, Florida, North Carolina and lived in Michigan, Texas, Ohio, and England before moving to Newfoundland, Canada on 2008 and becoming a Citizen. Now I live, where my wife is from, in a fishing "outport" of 500 people, a grocer, gas station, post office, church and community center. The really good part is the North Atlantic behind us if you can get through the dense forest of dwarf trees. To bad about the gloves as they are not cheap and should last longer than 3 years. I have a deep winter pair but looking for this weight/style glove.
I have a pair of summer-sneakers from Icebug, my favourite day to day shoe for the warmer months. And I've heard good things about their shoes/boots in general. Sounds like a lovely area you live in nowadays (even though it's cold), away from the stress from the large cities. After living 10 years in Malmö (3rd largest city in Sweden, but small compared to many other European-cities), I appreciate the calm and quiet out of the countryside where we live nowadays. But I do miss after work beer, the dance scene, and the general culture scene of the city. Even though I only have about a 50 min drive to Malmö, it's not the same.
Yes, we love it here. We also have an Atlantic Salmon run in our rivers minutes away and are allowed two per season but its hard work getting one on a barbless fly. I enjoy brook tout fishing probably more with a dry fly and lighter gear than salmon buy seeing a Salmon jump and shake the fly out is an exhilarating experience. For fine dining and nightlife we drive 4 hours one way to St. John's the capitol and largest city - a whooping 200,000 metro area haha. The entire province of Newfoundland, an island, and Labrador above Newfoundland is just around 500,000 with an area as large as the the UK. Gander is 1.5 hours from us and has decent shopping and is where the play originated Come from Away when all the passengers landed in Gander during 911 and the Newfoundlanders took care of everyone as best they could.
Great Video. Love seeing you while actually photographing with your equipment then a commentary after. Keep them coming please! As you noticed, the 250mm C is a good lens. After all, Ansel Adams photographed Moon and Half Dome with the 250mm C 1960! I will be on the lookout for one in the future as well as a 60mm 3.5. I just picked up a Hasselblad 500CM with an 80 2.8 C (non *T) from a very reputable Hassy and Rollei repairman in Mass. US that's been fully CLA'd mechanically and optically and in excellent cosmetic condition. You wouldn't believe the hours it took (yes you would I'm sure!) to find a 500C or 500CM that was CLD'd and not over 2K USD. She's probably much older (1976) than your 2000FCW but should be good for years now. The focal plane shutter has the advantage of not having to test every lens with shutters for base film exposures but I can live with that considering the 2000 series are more expensive here than the 500 series and are totally mechanical with no batteries:). The wooden Tripod I sold was great. However, not for my shoulders and age so I'm happy with the CF you recommended with the living base and G2 gear head - still light at under 2kg compared to almost 5 Kg. It will serve well for my Intrepid 45 and Fujinon W 150mm 5.6. I was going your route with filters and get a BAY50 to 52mm thread for Tiffen black and white filters - id that what you did? Eventually I'd like a bellows hood with gel drop ins but not critical for me at this point.
Glad you found it useful. This is an older video, but it certainly is a nice lens, at ~1 kg it's not a light lens though. Even though mine has started acting up since :( My HB 2003 fcw was actually cheaper than a nice 500 CM when I bought it. And I get why, it's the 500-series that's the legend, and there's a certain allure to a fully mechanical camera. I went with a bay50 to 62 mm, as it matched some filters I already have. I slightly regret not going for a larger thread size, as bay 60 that later hassy lenses uses are slightly larger that 62 mm. I've simplified my filters for the Hassy, I only use an orange filter from Heliopan. Someday I'm going to add in a 100 mm filter system (looking at one from Kase or Hoya filters), to be able to use grad filters on my HB and large format cameras. But for now there's other things I need/want first.
@@O.Persson Dear Oskar, Thank you for your reply. I hope and pray you get the 250mm going again. Is it the shutter? We've got at least two qualified repairmen here in Canada now that mainly if not only do Hasselblad's and Rolleiflexes but I'm sure if you can't seem to find the issue there are many in Sweden! After seeing the size and weight thanks to you I may go for a 150mm and 60mm for the wide. I've been checking out and writing down spots I want to return too with my Hasselblad and Intrepid 4x5 but still waiting for some important items like the 150mm lens for the 4x5 and the Hasselblad kit which is in shipping. As you know, it's not easy getting all the "parts" assembled when from different sources! As far as filters I would like one of the systems you mention for 100mm filters but I honestly can't figure them out. I think I'll call Kase, Hoya and LEE to see if they are helpful in a system that works for 45 and 120. I can't understand what to even order at this point.
@@stephenwiseman3780 We do have a fairly good general repairman in the nearest town. But the cost of having it fixe professionally would probably be more than the lens is worth. And it's not the shutter, that works fine when fired without the camera. It's more like the camera doesn't recognise the lens (it works fine with my other two lenses), so I think it's the little cog that's supose to engage with the camera that's malfunctioning (probably just a bit sticky). It takes a while before assembling the kits, and meanwhile one is just ready to go out and shoot. I myself am waiting for a Ondu to start manufacturing my camera. I pre-ordered a 4x10 as a small birthday present for myself. It's expected to ship in September, hopefully I'll have it in time for my birthday (21/9) :) I honestly don't think there's much difference between the filter systems from the reputable brands (kase, lee, nisi, Hoya etc.), as long as they are glass filters. The cheaper resin filters, like the one from Colin aren't as nice. Had a kit of that, and they worked ok, but had a horrible magenta colour cast. My Kase filters, and the more expensive Cokin glass filters (nuance I think they are called, I had one Nd from that series) were much nicer, and no to very little colour cast. I would look for a good deal on a starting kit from one of those brands, they do go on sale every now and again. But a starting kit with still costs like 400-1 000 € over here. It happens every now and again that I wish I had some filter with me, but not as often as one might think. Hope you get your cameras soon, and can get started shooting. :)
Thank You! I'm only now waiting for my 500Cm with an older 80mm 2.8 and the 150 lens for my 4x5. I'm loading my film holders tomorrow with all the above due to my door Thuesday:)! Then I'm shooting next week:) Yes, I can't believe the prices of the older V lenses even when CLA'd. I like the old design as well - they seem more German/Swedish engineered but I'm weird. Congrats on the Ondu for you BD fingers crossed! They really look nice and I would think a step or two above the Intrepid. The Intrepid is a great camera too as you know. On filters, I'm going to hold off but you've given me some great options to look out for. @@O.Persson
I also have a thing for German (or really euro) cameras and stuff, if that's not apparent. I do also collect european cameras. I want to think the Ondu is a step up from the Intrepid; to my eyes, it looks like a very similar design but with better materials. I actually got an email from Elvis (who's running Ondu cameras), and I might receive my camera before September as he will make it with the Kickstarter batch. Now starts the hunt for all the things needed for 4x10. It's an odd format, so that will be interesting.
