Yet another RU-vid channel that will try to put a different spin on 3D printing. Not only showing the good, but showing the bad and frustrating. Please like, share and subscribe! :)
I have successfully printed a custom box. First 2 attempts at download brought in a solid box and one with supports inside! very strange. Finally, it gave me a useable file that printed perfect with petg. HOWEVER, the lid is a different story. Because I added text to the top of the lid, I wanted to print the lid right side up to get good results with the text. The hinges protrude below the lid, which means I had to add supports on a 4"x5" box. Tried 4 different support values. If support is too open, then print fails. If support is too dense, must use hammer, chisel and lots of sanding to remove support. (ideal would be an idex or your ams with pla supports (something that doesn't adhere to petg). Someone in these comments mentioned to print lid on edge. I may try that with a brim for stability. TIP, when you are on the site, right mouse click and do translate, esp before downloading (when in that dialog box). And you should use 2m x 28mm pins, available on aliexpress and ebay. the 28mm is difficult to find, but they are available (or you could just buy 30mm for the hinges) but for the front clasp, you do need 28mm pins. Hope this helps someone. BTW, that bento box is cool if they continue to develop it, it could be awesome. Right now it is buggy.
Black Dino Thunder mask on the AnyCubic Kobra2 Max? those printers are awesome, accept for the Z-levelling issues and once in a while a clogged nozzle.
@@3DPrints747-ku2gm there is an "Unclogger" ?? I always take apart the whole print head, ending up holding the nozzle over a flame to get the jammed PLA out 😅
There is! Google it, I got mine on Amazon. It is around $20 and you heat up the hot end and just push the unclogger through to clear any clog you may have. So far it has worked great for me.
If the handle says Unclogger, then yes that is the one. When the K2 Max clogs, heat it up to 220, remove the top tube and run the Unclogger down through the nozzle.
There's another youtuber who tried this and the box outer stl needed repairing for bad geometry before printing otherwise it tries to print a solid object
The stringing inside the helmet is most likely from a tree support that fell mid print, & the excess filament strung up & attached itself to the next surface the extruder touched
You're welcome! It is pretty comfortable. I don't cosplay but wouldn't have a problem wearing it for a few hours. It isn't that flexible so a lower % infill would probably fix that. Shore hardness was 95A. Thanks for watching!
Thank you and its such an easy print! I also figured out where the cheek pieces go. I velcro'd them onto the sides of the eye pieces and they look great!
You may have incorrectly sliced it, maybe a different filament type. Im printing one now and havent ran onto any problems although my lid is printing on a different side. I uploaded a short of it on my profile.
Thanks, I just watched the short. I tried 2 different filaments. Maybe I'll try again on a different printer and see what happens. I sliced it in Bambu. I printed it upside down because I didn't want to have to use supports.
I don't power the machine off with TPU in the nozzle. When the print finishes I use the thumb lever that allows me to pull the TPU back out while the nozzle is still hot. I then either slide my "noclogger" through from the top or immediately feed filament back through to clean it out. So far, so good...
Thanks, I know there was a set that you could use where you measure your head and download the correct size one, but I couldn't find it. I'm going to have to dig deeper, maybe its on printables...
Thank you! I just sized and sliced a Black Ranger helmet from Dino Thunder. It's been on for about 4 hours. I'll post a video tomorrow and then again when it is finished. :) You'll really like the K2 Max!
Hey, cool stuff, could you give us a breakdown of all the settings (quality, strength, speed, support, others) you used? What nozzel size, speed, etc? Thanks! Keep up the great work!
Thank you! It's been a while, but I think I used 25% infill and the only other thing I changed was Top Z Distance to .34 and Bottom Z Distance to .3 to make the supports easy to remove, since TPU has a tendency to weld to itself. Everything else was default with a .4 nozzle. I didn't change any default speed, just selected generic TPU and let the machine do the rest. :)
It is, but the ones I printed either cracked, slipped, or bent the cardboard trying to put them on. I printed 6 and ended up tossing them all the the recyling bin...
@@3DPrints747-ku2gm maybe they need to be scaled up. I gave a colleague with an AMS a spool of Polymaker and the STL, he printed the rim in TPU and used the spools without issues
I'm not sure what you mean "skin". This was printed in place like this. The back has fold lines that I followed, along with a paper guide from ThinkFun. :)
On the far Green horitzonal layer progress bar on the right you'll see the pause marked with II. click on the green + next to the left of the pause mark , not the II and you'll be able to "Delete Pause".
This is an awful idea, specially if you use an electric drill to re-spool your filament. If you really need to re-spool it, first you need to at least heat up your filament, if not, your will expose it to stress and compression forces that will break it in the future. It's already happening to a lot of other users that tried to respool their filaments
What are your sources for this information? I'm interested. The more I get into 3d printing the more I want to learn about various aspects of mechanical engineering as it applies to printing
Just printed an outer box and lid on my X1C with Bambu Basic PLA. Box outside is 193x131x97. Default settings, gyroid infill, 15%. Lid printed on its side edge with support. Bambu Studio added a wide brim to the lid. Printed great. Was expecting the lid to fail, but no problems. Am printing on High Temperature Plate that already had glue stick applied and the door open.
I have used TPU on my Kobra 2 Pro and the setting was for PLA and had no problems. I would however try putting your own supports instead of those built -in. I also use a stronger pair of wire cutters instead of the ones you showed. One comment was that your volume was rather low at one time even on max, but I do wear hearing aids so please don't take offence.
How does the speed compare? Those bamboo lab printers can be really quick. I’m looking to replace my creality cr v2 printers. Maybe with a couple of bamboos.m🤔
I started a print on the P1P and the K2 Max. Same prints, took all default settings from the slicers, Bambu Studio vs Anycubic's slicer. The prints looked identical and the K2 Max finished about 5mins faster. Maybe I'll get a video going this week to compare prints between the two making sure they are using the same print speeds. With that said, I know that I can rely on my BambuLab printers so if I ever have to just print something and go to bed, the print always ends up on the BambuLab.
You should mess with Tinkercad. It's super easy to design things and doesn't require all of the knowledge that programs like Fusion360 do. It obviously can't do as much, but for basic things needed around the house, that is my go to.
I got my first 3D printer a few months ago and have been busy learning Onshape (free, browser based) - to be fair, I'm an IT consultant and have a lot of experience in 2d vector design so the transfer wasn't too bad. I've designed loads of things round the house (components to fix home appliances, gadgets etc) and now starting to think about designing items that I can eventually sell either locally or online. If you have an idea for something you want to design, I'd be happy to have a look at creating the basics in Onshape and sending to you to tinker with
I only upgraded to the Panda Touch. I will get something recorded this weekend hopefully and show you more details on it if that is what you would like to see.
Any reason not just using a 24v fan? You just really wanted to use noctua? Should work well either way. Anycubic, like most sub $1000 printers is made to such a tight budget that you end up with lots of areas that a few pennies more would make it better...thats the economy we have created with everyone buying the cheapest they can.
The info I found online had the 12v with the stepdown. I tried to find a 24v but couldn't. I've had experience with fans and stepdowns in the past with Enders so wasn't hesitant to go this route. :)
your audio is all over the place. i couldn't finish the video. you seem to be very knowledgeable but get yourself a decent mic to capture all audio clearly and at a continuous level. :)
Thank you for that. I've bought a mic and will be doing a new video this weekend so hopefully that will help. I'll also make sure that I normalize the sound when editing. This is all new to me and I appreciate your comment.
Looks like they changed the Printables links. This might be them: www.printables.com/model/703943-anycubic-kobra-2-silent-psu-kobra-2-pro-kobra-2-pl www.printables.com/model/865304-anycubic-kobra-2-max-anti-vibration-feet
How have your prints gone since you’ve printed this helmet with the any cubic 2 max? Are they still printing wall or are you running into issues like everybody else?
Surprisingly I've had zero issues with the K2 Max. I'm very happy with it. But if you don't need the print volume I'd get a P1P for the seamless slicing, printing and remote monitoring.
