This is where you can come to find all kinds of tips and tricks for weaving, as well as some other fun things. If you have questions, or want to see a video on something specific, please email kathy@rocklakeweaving.com.
yes, although it would likely be easiest if you took the groups of ends off the sticks, or at least had enough warp in front of the sticks to overlap the ends.
I don't know specifically, it would depend on the shop. If you need a half pound RIGHT NOW, then I would use a "local" shop, even if it was a little more money. If you are doing larger orders, and don't mind waiting for shipping, then direct is likely more cost effective. Definitely reach out to Brassard and research it to compare costs specific to your location though. They are wonderful to work with.
it would help if the camera were closer to your hands for the knot, and how you are wrapping the yarn around the pegs...thicker yarn, brighter colors woukd help too. are you going over under the pegs or just over all? Is there supposed to be a figure 8 ( whatever it is called!) somewhere?
I have just found your channel and I really appreciate your tips. I am working through your videos one by one. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge, it really helps new weavers like me. I would also like to mention that your teaching style and delivery is very professional. Cheers from South Australia ;-)
thanks for sharing this. I just decided to do this with a towel I weaving. I grabbed a bobbin which I thought was the colour I wanted, but then when I had to wind another from the tube of 2/8 cotton I realized it wasn't quite the right blue. At first I continued and thought you can't really notice it, but eventually decided to pull it out!! This was so much faster!!
@@rocklakeweaving1142 Thanks. I am buying a 60" loom specifically because I want to weave throw blankets and was leaning towards 8/4 for those and, like you said, larger towels. What sett do you tend to use when using 8/4 for blankets and bath towels?
So I can (and do) buy Brassard 8/2 and 8/4 from domestic vendors here in the U.S. Do you know if they would even sell/ship directly to me if I ordered a lot of yarn at once? Also, they only list 8/2 and 8/4 in 1/2lb spools and would be interested in buying it in much larger cones (1lb or higher). Do you know if they do that?
Why on earth did I not think of doing this, do it all the time with my knitting wool when knitting. Good job you dont have to wet and rub in hands though like when joining wool. Thank you great video.
I will probably never do a sectional warp again from a chain. I'm dealing with a 20 ends per inch on a 36 inch warp...720 ends.... You still have to strum , stroke and comb tangles out as you wind the warp..... I will probably wind up bobbins for each part of the section and put them on a spool rack and run through a tension box and then to the warp beam like you are doing.... I'm dealing with a 40 yard warp, a 5 or 7 yard warp might be good from a chain but not a long warp...I had ties at every yard and the warp chain was only made for each 2 inch section, it still wanted to tangle
Yes, getting it right at the peg would result in a tiny bit less waste, but it is so minimal that I generally don't worry about it too much. That would be different if I was using a very expensive yarn though.
Great idea but why put the numbered tape on each section? Why not just on the last section? And I probably wouldn't do every yard; maybe every 5 yards? That's just me though!
I have a question! Do you make a new chain for every section? Mine has 1” sections, so would I make a new chain for each or could i get away with separating them off one big chain?
Theoretically you could measure one large chain, and then separate 1" sections off to measure one at a time, but I find it easier to measure individual chains from the start. You CAN beam a sectional with a single large chain, but it is akin to beaming a plain beam, and requires some mental and physical gymnastics, and a friend along for the ride definitely helps.
Yes. I will unweave if the weft is expensive, or it is only a half inch or so. IF it is more, it is more efficient to cut it out. I CAREFULLY spread the warp ends at the selvedge, and clip the weft ends, then pull them out. I will see if I can get a short video of that the next time I am at the studio.
Oh wow! First, you have just saved me a bunch of time and saved me from going back and fixing incorrectly bunched groups and second, I cannot even believe this has not occurred to me before. 😬 thank you!
Those scissors are brilliant!!!! I LOVE having the right scissors for the job close at hand! Thanks for showing us these. I've never noticed them before, but I can see how useful they can be!
I would like to ask about your pattern. It is absolutely gorgeous!! Is this draft one you designed or is it published somewhere? I would love to weave up some kitchen towels with this fun checkerboard pattern.
