Thanks for the information. I could not really see any cracks and when tested for continuity they checked good. But everything else looked good on the boards so I just took my soldiering iron and re-did the solder connections.... and sure enough it is now working.
I have a similar problem but resoldering the joints didn't fix it for me. If you say bad solder joints are the problem 9 out of 10 times, then I must be the 1/10 time where it wasn't the problem. The problem was that the voltage regulator on the main board that was toast and had to replace. It's a 8M05 voltage regulator sitting between the 5-pin connector and the display daughterboard.
Same problem on my '03 Suburban. Took it all apart to investigate. The solder wasn't the issue. The fuse wasn't the issue. The search for the solution continues.
The guy that replace the led lights burnt the hell out of the circuit board. I pulled it all apart to see what the problem was. What a joke whoever attempted the work. Even led lights on the outside of the truck. Made a of issues for me to fix. Now my truck has nothing but led lights and all work just fine. Lol
1:31 - is this harness/connector for temp. sensor? (the box on the mirror support is a temperature sensor? for outside ,inside temperature?) I have a small box on the support and this box is attached to the mirror. i'm wondering what is this...
I can confirm that the same issue with cold solder joints exists in the instrument cluster. Not only with the DIC display, but also for the DIC control buttons on the steering wheel, as those buttons are wired to the instrument cluster where their resistors are located.
This worked for me. Well used 00 01 02 03 comp/temp mirrors. No screen display, took a chance and resoldered each of those resistors. Comp/temp screen working. Thanks for the video 👍
Thank you, i had just taken my mirror apart cleaned everything and put it back together after going off other videos and finding nothing wrong. Your video came up next in the autoplay, so before reinstalling my mirror and finding it still didnt work i checked the resistors. I found the furthest one to the outside cracked. It was not as obvious as yours but with some light and magnification i could see the solder had a very fine crack. I reflowed the solder and assembled my mirror, put it back in my truck and it lit up perfectly.
It is a DS 650 that has been boared out to a 720cc. He also added a turbo kit to it and a special modified clutch to handle the torque that it put out. He was running the turbo around 20-25 pounds of boost.
The one that is puple is running a street bike engine from a gsxr 700 with nitrus. the yellow one is running a regular ds 650 engine that has been bored out to a 720cc and running a turbo on it. He said he was running between 20-25 pounds of boost from that turbo. I don't know any other mods he added to it, but it is fast. Really cool seeing it in person!!!