@@AlaGamesMobile No, this one is the Om646, just before that. I think the 651 was introduced between 2010-2011 just before the face-lift model. There was a weird purgatory time where the preface lifts could have the 651 but was somewhat rare.

@@AlexYeets just got an om651 and could I apply same kind of transmission service and haldex service as you did? Mine vin is WDC2049841F884354

Hi! Please be aware that I have done hundreds of these gearbox services over the years. I have plenty enough experience to know where these want to be tightened down to. I can also concisely say that wherever you've gotten 4nm + 180° from is incorrect. The correct torque figure is 8nm. Adding 180 degrees to 4nm would inevitably and undeniably take it significantly past 12nm, where you claim they would "surely break". In this case, I would much, MUCH rather just do it by feel. You also should note that this is my own vehicle. Regardless of getting paid for the labour time or not, I would still be comfortable to carry out the service just as I have here - however I would always torque these to spec, as well as replacing the bolts, given the customer pays for enough of my time and the replacement bolts. One could argue that without replacing the bolts, using torque settings at all is entirely moot and pointless either way, so by extension, even simply torqueing them is not enough if you use the old bolts. You have to bear in mind that not all customers are willing to pay the cost for new bolts, and my regular labour rates. A gearbox service can get expensive fast, when majority of people are told that automatic gearboxes are "sealed for life" or filled with "Lifetime Oil". The final thing to note is that many people do not have torque wrenches to work on their own cars outside of a workshop, and at the end of the day, there are thousands upon thousands of cars going about with sumps and drain plugs and fill ports and oil filters and wheels and lord knows what else which have not been torqued to a specified setting, but just tightened by someone with vague experience and not a single issue arises from it. I appreciate you taking the time to comment regardless.

​@@AlexYeets "I can also concisely say that wherever you've gotten 4nm + 180° from is incorrect. The correct torque figure is 8nm. Adding 180 degrees to 4nm would inevitably and undeniably take it significantly past 12nm, where you claim they would "surely break". In this case, I would much, MUCH rather just do it by feel." My bad I had theses torques in mind but for 722.9... You're right for 8nm on 722.6. WIS document-s are my sources

Hi, it's unusual that it's come with a 25mm/1" lug. Usually they come 1/2" or 3/8th". You will probably be best getting an adapter for 1/2" to 1" and a simple 1/2" socket set. But at minimum a 1/2" ratchet and 1/2"-1" adapter.

Appreciate it, mate! Hopefully you find a good one, they're honestly brilliant cars and I've loved mine since I got it. Just look out for the dreaded ESL faults that they sometimes have, as well as the rear subframes rotting away! Good luck, and again, thanks for your comment! :)

Hi Nye Davis. I'm currently not taking any bookings as I'm extremely busy up until March and I do these on a private basis as opposed to through the workshop I work at. Sorry I can't be of any help.

Does anyone know where such services can be found in Germany? I haven't found anyone who works like in this video!!

@@AlexYeets Hello, Thank you for your reply for which I’m really appreciate. As I’m 71 and intend keeping the car I’ve wondered whether to stockpile spares likely to fail while available and not cheap Chinese copies. Since lockdown I’m only doing 4.5k annually but always restricting runs to 20-80 miles on Shell V Power. Unlike your C Class the rear subframe doesn’t suffer from corrosion if the internal square void is kept clear though my W201 which we’ve had since 97 shows some signs. That was treated to Bill Hammer’s wax which is available in a thick heavy duty wax or a light clear coat wax. Both are superior to Waxoyl which I’ve used since 76. The plastic fuel filter housing, and plastic inlet manifold are weak points. As for the OMG651 the timing chain as you know can slacken. Some advise changing at 160k though another suggestion is merely to test and change the steel tensioner. There are also videos of broken plastic chain guides!. I similarly use a CTEK battery charger though mine is possibly a later variant specifically designed for the glass battery. Personally I never use the Stop/Start system as I believe it damages the alternator and imposes an unnecessary strain merely to achieve the lower E.U. emissions directive. There are some interesting videos produced by Daimler on discovering oil leaks. First use Sonax and then a Contrast agent which you might find useful in your job. The vehicle is taken for a run and then the oil leak area’s are localised. Best Wishes. 👍🏻🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

@@Backwardlooking I'd probably avoid stockpiling the bits as they can just naturally degrade. Things like o-rings, filters, plastics, rubbers, can all degrade and most times, you're better off buying an aftermarket item than a new-old one that's been sat for a while. Further on the point of the start-stop systems - The alternators don't get affected by it, the only thing that gets more wear is the starter motor. However, the starter motors are designed for it specifically and are rated to levels of magnitudes more starts than standard starter motors. The emissions standpoint is basically the only reason it's there to be honest, and it is kind of laughable. The CTEK chargers are the best chargers on the market in my opinion, and especially the pro-ones. All the CTEK chargers can deal with AGM batteries, though the latest black professional range can do Lithium ones, as well. All of the silver CTEK ones can charge any lead acid technology battery (SLA, EFB, Spiral AGM and flat plate AGM.) The feature for AGM is specifically to try and recondition those as they are a deeper-cycle battery - they can handle a deeper discharge like when used on stop-start cars, whilst using heated seats, infotainment systems, sat nav, blower motors, lighting, control units, etc. By and large, timing chains are not a serviceable component *as long as the car is maintained with regular oil changes*, so when they start to stretch, it's usually obvious with rattles on cold-starts or check engine lights intermittently. Essentially any cause for concern towards a timing chain fault is signifying it's due for replacement.

6.5l engine oil including filter - though as a service, you usually end up topping up by 5.5l.

@@AlexYeets mine has gotten very sluggish on gear change and bogging down on takeoff so want to see if it's something to do with the gearbox never been serviced, it's a 2009 so it's getting on now, thanks

Yup, that's the one. 646.811.

​@@AlexYeets the best of best 4 cyl diesel, i have the same and 0 oil leak

Toutes mes excuses, j'utilise google translate. Oui, il s'agit de la boîte de vitesses automatique à 5 rapports sur ce modèle. Apologies, using google translate. Yes, this is the 5-speed automatic gearbox on this model.