Souber® Tools was first established in 1990 by the founder, and Managing Director, Paul Souber. He had worked for Chubb Locks for 13 years and he brought his extensive engineering skill to this new venture which he devoted entirely to the needs of professional locksmiths.
In 1989 Paul invented his first product for locksmiths and it was this that prompted him to begin Souber® Tools to market his invention. Since then new products have been developed at a great pace and the Souber® Tools range now comprises some 600 lines including the acclaimed DBB 5 Minute Morticer.
Within the locksmith trade our company, and precision tools, have established a reputation for high quality, reliability and efficiency of service. This has fuelled our success in the domestic market and in addition we now also export to over 20 countries Worldwide including Australia, Japan and the United States.
Our aim has always been to provide ‘simple, effective, precision tools - affordable and easy to use’.
The clamps will open to 100mm maximum. Above this dimension you need longer clamp screws. (Part No. DBB/LCS). Then, it can open to 200mm maximum. However, the full "left to right" movement is reduced above 140mm.
Thank you for the quick response, I'll check it out. I noticed that you also provide for off ctr locks in rebate doors. Is that a different mortiseor or can I purchase an adaptor for your standard one? Thank you
@@danthechippie4439 Go to www..morticer.com for details. Watch the videos and take a look at the sales leaflet. You can order the separate Housing Kit to make it work "offset" from the supplier.
I was impressed the first few times I used this de-glazer. then the curved end blade started to straighten out slightly when using on some stubborn beads,, making it now difficult to use, must be manufactured from low carbon spring steel material for it not to remain in shape
This Drill bit does not have a conventional tip. It uses the same design as the people who drill the old wooden lampstands. When it hits a knot in the wood, the noise changes pitch but continues to cut straight. It cuts in 3 places at once using a lip and spur design. The important thing is if you start straight it continues straight. Furthermore, keeping the jig aligned is important and correct stance is advised in the Long Drill instructions. This means no deviation and no strain on the Jig or housing. If you follow our instructions you should "pop-out" within 10mm of centre. I usually expect most achieve it within 6mm.
MBA USA In Kentucky are stocking the Master Kits only at present. That's 8 burrs in a set. 5 Magi Burrs plus 2 plain burr and a safe end burr. I expect them to stock the individual Burrs some time soon.
The quickest we've done it is about 40 seconds. But, it comes down to how quickly the pins jump out. Unfortunately, Medeco is no longer sold in the UK so we used some old stock I found stashed away in store here........So, we'll now have to wait for you to post your videos instead
Bought my DBB about 6 years ago to replace the Trend router jigs, and I've been using the smaller diameter plunging cutters to do tubular latches for a while. They work well. Last week I got hold of the 29 and 32mm plunging cutters so that I could install a number of Perko (Correction: they are Astras, see below) tubular closers - the large 4000 series ones with the 280mm long body. Fire rated ones need a 31/32mm diameter hole, non-fire rated a 29mm hole. I've now installed six Astra 4000s into brand new solid oak doors, with varying thicknesses between 42mm and 64mm, as well as redrilling one door to 32mm where a colleague had inadvertently drilled the door at 29mm and couldn't figure out how to safely redrill to 32mm. This has always been a twitchy sort of job to do because you only have 6 to 7mm of timber between the hole and the face of the door, so even a couple of degrees out and you risk drilling out the side of the door - not a good idea with £2k plus doors! On chipboard core doors and softwood doors I find I can use a heavy cordless drill (Makita DHP481/DHP484) without problems - solid oak doors are somewhat harder to do and I'm happier with a corded drill on the 29 and 32mm holes Well done Souber for a great piece of kit!
Glad to have helped you in your problem. However, the closers you mentioned were not Perko's but would have been the Astra Closer. Samuel Heath would have something to say about that as they make the Perko closer.
Hi Phil Agreed, that Cordless drills have improved. The requirement is a drill with 2500-3000rpm. Only a few Cordless Drills can do this. So, if you have a cordless which can do those speeds that might be acceptable. But, it must have a 13mm Chuck and not be too heavy. Heavy Drills can cause operating difficulties.
J'aurais bien bien aimer connaître le noms de l'appareil que vous avez utilisés. J'ai voulu me servir d'une affleureuse pour faire ce genre de travaux mais pas suffisament profond avec les fraises.
You would have to use an Offset Housing kit. That would work on Frames up to 95mm wide. Over 95mm width you'd need longer clamp screws. But it's all quite possible.
Cutting the face plate part made me wince a bit, I could imagine it chewing up the timber. That kind of put me off. Imagine it messing a expensive oak door up. Cut the inside for the mortice lock I would like one if it cuts the time down.
@@SouberTools I'm sorry if I touched a nerve, but it wasn't intended as a slagging off reply. I was just saying stating the sound from the cutting sounded rough. And yes I agree. That's a fair amount sold. But a 120.000 is a drop in the ocean to how many tradesmen there is out there world wide. Just saying.
@@xxyxnxwxaxx9724 There are techniques for doing perfect faceplates. There are also ways to mess it up. I won't focus on the various do's and don'ts as I will start to get into a lesson on training and that will take hours.
