Hello everyone this is my new RU-vid channel! I'm just an average Joe making DIY howto videos that could save you money around the house on your howto projects & repairs. Why pay someone else when you can do it yourself I always say. This is the place to be if you want to learn how to use your hands getting down & dirty saving those dollar bills from falling out of your pocket & landing in someone else's hands! You will see that if an average Joe (that's me) can do it then you can too. In fact I won't ever post a howto video on my channel that I think you CAN'T do. You heard right. I just happen to think that you can do everything I can do, if you just take your time & put your mind to it. Grab a bowl of popcorn or that cup of "Joe" & spend a spell with me for some hands on learning & possibly some entertainment along the way. I never know what I'm going to say next as whenever I get ready to do a howto DIY project I just whip out my video camera & go for it. Come join me! VideoJoe
Great video Joe, thank you. This is certainly a proper way to drill into the pan without hitting any pipes or wires. For AC units that do come with a hole in the pan, it is very complicated to know where that hole is located exactly, as they advertise photos of all sides but never photos of the pan (on the websites), and it is not in the owner's manuals either. So there is no way to know in advance where the hole will be located. It matters to me as i wanted to put a window unit into a wall, just like you do in this video. My actual AC is a "Midea" brand and the hole in the pan is in the middle (so in the wall), so it is a problem with water being drained into the wall instead of outside. I found a way to divert it but I still ordered a proper 'through the wall' unit from LG. Not sure why the wall units are always more expensive than the similar window units.
Not sure why either. Thanks for your message & I have lots more AC wall install videos like this for more learning. Just go to my main RU-vid channel page then click on playlists & scroll down to AC. Thanks!
Yes you could use one of those but I didn't have one back then plus if there is a stray wire next to the box you won't feel it as you swiftly cut right through it with your tool! That's another reason why I use the hacksaw trick. Thanks for stopping by!
I have this same exact unit. There is a soft black foam in the celing of the unit where the air comes out. Remove this because it collects moisture and will mold and mildew.
I have this same exact unit. There is a soft black foam in the celing of the unit where the air comes out. Remove this because it collects moisture and will mold and mildew.
A conscientious electrician? A rarity! I have one of these miserable old timey tiny metal boxes. My electrician wired up a gfci outlet in said box, knowing that a box extender would have to go in . Guess what? My novice understanding realized later that box extenders wouldn't fit in the little metal box. I mean the little metal box is small than the boxes sold today. Plus, the wiring is so tight in the little metal box to begin with. Why wouldn't my electrician think ahead when I told him the wall covering would have the outlet to deep? Why couldn't he put a modern plastic box in when the studs were bare? He said "oh no that metal box is just fine." Now it's my problem. Plus, he twisted all the ground wires together in said little metal box and this box is close to the kitchen sink. As I said, the wires are balled up real tight in this box. I'm beyond aggravated, but thank you for this video. I know what to do. Edit: Oh, you have a 2x6 wall and a plastic box. Lucky me, I have 2x4 walls and a metal box.
tried to install these because I failed a fire inspection. They screwed on fine but they were causing my door to hit the frame on the latch side.( not even close to closing) They are much fatter than the original hinges. So I had to put the original ones back in. Do I need to chisel or route out the hinge side frame to give these more room?
That's weird as all the ones I've ever seen are the same size as the existing door hinges. Measure the existing door hinges you have then remove one hinge & take to the hardware store & match up to the spring loaded hinges you want. I just recently purchased some from The Home Depot and they were the same size as the 4 inch hinges I had on the garage door going into a Condo. Check it out & let me know. You shouldn't have to mortise out the hinges any deeper as you had explained.....
HUh.....I thought I gave some good advice here. I ended up drinking lots of water that night then took a hot bath then in the middle of the night I passed it. I was lucky I guess & I have never had another one. This was the first one & hopefully the last & I heard the first one you get is generally the smallest so I was lucky it went right through. On the other hand if you have had them before then each time you get another one they can be bigger than the last so which obviously is not what you want of course......did you pass your stone? Is it the first one you've ever had?
I used LG's for years in Maui & they always seemed to work good for the owners I installed them for. <Most of them went in vacation condos & they would work really good for 3 to 5 years before acting up since they were pretty much on year round being in Maui & all. Yes I have heard about not putting them on their side but for the little amount I did I have never had an issue. Now if I was storing them in a garage for long periods of time before installing them for different customers then yes I would not store on the side. Thanks for stopping by with your message...
A little plastic nozzle that will not move at all,,,? Please explain further.....did you get it removed? I have other kitchen faucet videos to assist but not sure what you are referring to exactly......a plastic nozzle for where the main water comes in from the wall to go up to your kitchen faucet? No valve there? Now sure why there would not be a valve there but you could turn off the main water to the entire house to then remove the faucet & install the new one then turn the main water back on as a thought.....? Or when you have the main house water off you can then decide if you want to have a valve installed for under the sink.....?
@@videojoeshows So asked around a bit and what it was is the valve it's just broken, so yes I would have to crawl under the house and shut the water off, thank you tho, how much do you think a faucet like this would cost?
@@ZanManBip09 A faucet like that might cost around $150 or so maybe a tad less depending. I just put one in for my Auntie which was a little different than this one which I call a waterfall style in that it looks like an upside down "J" so to speak. Look around at The Home Depot or Lowes & you should be able to find something affordable. I have other faucet videos for more learning. Just go to my main RU-vid channel page then click on playlists & scroll down to plumbing & there should be others in there. I would recommend you replacing that broken water valve with a new one. Take a picture of your existing conditions then show the pic to a sales person in the plumbing department & they should be able to give you some suggestions for what parts you might need. Good luck & let me know how you do!
you may need to retitle this video. you cover dripper/bubbler parts, where, and which ones to use. There is no instruction on how to even install the drip line into the water source
Well I wasn't sure how to title this but I still thought I gave lots of info for how to go about getting ready to install bubblers. If you want to learn more then of course I have a ton of drip irrigation videos on my channel to show you how to attach a small line to an existing larger main line. Just go to my main RU-vid channel page then click on playlists & scroll down to drip irrigation or landscaping or something like that to find them all. Thanks for stopping by & good luck with your drip irrigation....YOU can do it!
I guess I was thinking by explaining to you how to clean it rather than actually going through the cleaning process you would still get the idea for what to do. Thanks for stopping by!
I have more wall mount AC unit videos for removing & installing etc. for more learning if you'd care to take a look. Go to my main RU-vid channel page then click on playlists & scroll down to AC. Thanks!
You could wrap the damaged plastic with duct tape or they also have foil tape specifically for duct pipe that is silver then you remove the backing piece & use that...kind of pricey though so lots of times you can use duct tape to wrap too. If your existing hvac outer plastic is really flaky all over in an area you could take some thin insulation & use that to wrap kind of like how they would cover metal fittings & do it that way too. Thanks again for stopping by & good luck with your repairs. You can do it!
Well you could change the entire fixture but the existing fixture will probably have a small type of ballast that could also be bad & if you remove the ballast you could take that to the hardware store & match it up to get a new one then replace that & that's my guess for why your new lamp(s) is not working. That might be easier to replace rather than having to remove the entire light fixture but replacing the fixture with a new one is an option as well. Hoppe this assists you & let me know what you end up doing. Thanks & thanks again for stopping by!
I'm sorry not sure the exact style name for this American Standard faucet. I have more videos of this project I did & maybe the preview video for this repair has the cartridge number on it or on this video somewhere...? If you can't find it then go to my main RU-vid channel page then click on playlists & scroll down to plumbing repairs & this entire project should be in those videos to where you can find the cartridge part number....it should be on this part one video or a previous video that might be a project preview of this repair & I might show the cartridge number on that one not sure as this was many years ago! Thanks for stopping by & good luck & let me know how you do. Make sure you watch all the parts so you can learn more for how to do it yourself...
Good idea....unfortunately it was in the middle of the night as I recall & I had to figure out something right then & there since another vacation renter was coming & checking in the next day with no heat gun available....thanks for the suggestion for sure!
Thanks for your message. I have lots of vides for sagging doors & how to fix them for more learning. Go to my main RU-vid channel page then click on playlists & scroll down to doors & they will be in there...make today great!
6:35 are you being funny? 20A breakers DO NOT MEAN that you have the correct gauge cable through your walls. Yikes! You should definitely check, as opposed to assuming. Also, backstabbing is excruciatingly bad; terminal screws are the right way to affix wiring to receptacles.
It is allowed by code to put multiple general use 15amp outlets on a 20amp circuit. The captive metal washer you were looking for is common on commercial grade receptacles and I think is the best method by allowing a straight wire to be attached in a secure manner.
I would respectfully disagree with your statement as I am explaining to you how to go about adding power for a couch sectional that may be in the middle of your room. I also made videos of this entire project & you can find all the videos by going to my main RU-vid channel page then clicking on playlists & scrolling down to electrical & all the videos will be in there. Good luck & thanks for stopping by!
What if it's the opposite and the latch side is rubbing? I have non bolt hinges and can't adjust. I'm thinking cutting the latch side or making the hinge cutouts deeper.
I have lots of sagging door videos that can assist you for sure. Go to my main RU-vid channel page then click on playlists & scroll down to doors & they will be in there. Let me know how you do....thanks for stopping by!
Sorry you didn't think so. I made a few slat wall painting videos of this project & if you want to see others we did then go to my main RU-vid channel page then click on playlists & scroll down to helping a youtube subscriber & you will find them all in there. Thanks for your message,,,,
Haha she just recently turned 88 & I drive down to stay with her a week or more at a time every few weeks to drive her around on errands & do honeydo list things for her around the house & take her over to her sister's house to work on puzzles!
Haha you like that? It blended right in too since the walls were a grayish color plus the light didn't shine in our eyes going up & down the stairs. Thanks for checking out this video. Look at all the stuff you are learning!
With the tall ceilings I could put them vertical & in the lower ceiling area horizontal & so they didn't look all samey. I liked the fact they could also dim so of course I had to make sure they were on dimmer switches....even the ones that were on 3way light switches there are some dimmer switches you can buy that you can make them either single pole (for just one light fixture) or 3 way (for two light switch locations for same light fixture(s) so that's what I did in two locations I got the dimmer switches & wired them for 3way. Now some LED light fixtures may not work on dimmers at least when they first came out with LED & maybe now all LED light fixtures will work on dimmer switches but not sure so check your light fixture box to see if they are dimmable & if you have questions then ask a sales person in the electrical department......then you can control the brightness of your lights if you want to dim them. I like to put dimmer switches in the bathroom for the main light in there & you can adjust the dimmer switch where you want it then in the middle of the night you can just flip the paddle to on & the light is already dim so you don't have to squint at 2am!
At about 15:10 you mentioned 3 ways to connect the wires. There are only two, around the screws or backstabbing, sliding a straight wire under the screw is NOT an option. Backstabbing, while legal, is not recommended so don't do that. You shouldn't really be using those cheap residential grade receptacles anyway, use a commercial grade, much better in every way and not very expensive. If you want a Leviton brand, get part number BR15 or CBR15. The CR15 is side wire only. The letter B means back wire option where the straight wire is clamped under a plate when the screw is tightened. It's a very good connection. All brands of commercial or "spec grade" receptacles have this feature.
do you have any kitchen appliances that are true 20A.. such that it has a 20A male plug end on the cord? No.. that's why it's not necessary to install 20A receptacles and GFCI in residential.
Very interesting because years ago when I first started out in Residential we use to put 20 amp outlets above kitchen counter in the backsplash area & always used a 20 amp circuit & 12 gauge wiring for those circuits....thanks for your input!
Kitchen and baths are still wired in 12 wire and code is 20A but it’s perfectly acceptable to use a 15A receptacle. Unless you stepped up to a spec grade or hospital grade receptacle you’ll find most 15&20A receptacles are constructed the same internally with only the face being able to accept a 20A plug on a 20A.
Hmmmm I always thought I had to install a 20 amp duplex outlet if it was on a 20 amp circuit such as the kitchen area.....but you are saying it's ok not too?
A 15A outlet is rated for 15A, with a 20A pass through. That is to say that the 20A circuit is in continuance throughout the circuit, however the receptacle itself (the contacts) are rated for 15A continuosly. Any single appliance with a 15A plug will not normally draw more than 80% of 15A, or 12A. The total circuit draw (multiple appliances - same circuit) can be 20A before the breaker trips. A 20A breaker used with 12awg wire can feed multiple 15A outlets, one example is the kitchen. The reasoning is so that today's demanding appliances, which draw more current, can be used with a 20A breaker without the worry of nuisance tripping. If more than a total of 20A were to be drawn from the circuit, the breaker will trip. It should be noted that any circuit that is intended to be 20A must use a 20A recepticle. If the appliance were using 15A, it will be safe with the 20A breaker ( @ 80% = 16A). If it were to short, it will trip the 20A breaker just as it would a 15A breaker. A 15A receptacle can take 20A for a short time with no problem. The receptacle is overrated, otherwise it would blow up upon a short. A short circuit in actuality can be hundreds of amps in a very short duration. The breaker and receptacle are rated as "Time overcurrent" meaning it can take a lot of current for extremely short durations, and will trip on lesser currents that occur for a longer time. An example one can relate to (refer to chart): Joe plugs in two electric heaters in his family room. Everything works fine until 20-100 seconds later the breaker trips! Joe overloaded his 20A circuit, by drawing 40A! The breaker will allow this overload for a short time. If the overload were bigger, say 60A the breaker would trip faster from 10-35 seconds. If the trip was due to a direct short, the breaker will trip Immediately. Breakers actually have a "Load characteristic curve" that you can tell when it will trip in time vs current.
Literally took nine minutes before you got to "Get the right color." I feel like you could deeply and accurately cover this entire subject in about nine minutes.
You could be right & I have 3 or 4 shorter videos of everything I show here but I thought I would put them altogether for a longer one if anyone was interested in watching a longer video so thought I would put it out there. Thanks for your input!
