I have a Grady Canyon 306 and find it to be a battle wagon. Great in the slop, comfortable and feels like a safe ride. All around great experience and great boat.
Nice presentation. I have the the same exact boat with the 200 HP OB though it is a 2021. Going on my 4th season and it is is an awesome boat and handles really well. Excellent speed and pickup. Though may I suggest that you show a few more of its best selling features 1) The very large area in the engine compartment when you open up the rear seat which is even bigger than the Sea Ray's in this size range. We actually keep the port a potty back there with a privacy curtain and makes a long boat outing even better. Even with that in there we have room to store our deflated 3 person tube and a few other items. 2) The bow wind block that goes with the bow filler cushion which allows a backrest for a 3rd or 4th person in the bow also not available in many boats this size. Makes an entire day even more comfortable.
Wow! Haven't seen anything like those shades. The dishwasher is perfect size for camping. The high ceilings make it feel different from an RV for sure. That top spot looks fun.
Would have been good timing to review the H6 beside the H4. There is so few vids on it and none of the H6 running. The H4 has tons of content available. 👍
Incorrect for buckling. After boot is on elevate the toe, grip the liner behind your calf, pull up on the liner as you tap the heel of the boot on the floor helping to drive your heel into the heel pocket of the liner. Keep the toe elevated after to insure your foot doesn't slide forward out of the heel pocket. With boot toe elevated buckle the instep buckle first then the toe, then the ankle and finally the shin buckle. This will insure your foot is held in place and aligned within the boot. Don't tighten the power strap completely until you are starting your run. Allow the trip to and up the lift to warm the inside of the liner with your body heat to let the liner soften and conform to your foot shape. ALWAYS OVERLOOKED is the importance of a FOOTBED! If you do not use at least a trim to fit footbed you will NEVER get a consistent fit and comfort from your boots. When buying or working with a current boot seek out a qualified boot fitter for a footbed. Prices range from $35 on up based on your budget and performance needs. The more you use the equipment the more comfort and performance you will obtain by upgrading the type of footbed you will use. A proper footbed is where attaining a proper boot fit starts! Then you are ready to try on boots to find something that accomadates your foot. Footbed First, then the boot.
Getting your heel in the back of the boot is the most important part. The method outlined in the video helps most skiers achieve that. Everyone has different methods of how they get ready but for 95%+ of skiers what is shown in the video will help them get their heel in the back of the boot with and major improvement from bottom up or top down buckling. Getting the heel in the back of the boot will improve both comfort and control.
Very, very novice skier here. I couldn’t figure out why I was falling over all the time after we got back on the slopes after lunch. Turns out I’d forgotten to do my boots back up. No more shots with lunch!
Been skiing for decades. Now now my old bindings are not going to work with the boots I just ordered :(. Great info though and new bindings on the way :)
Yeah, it's been around for a while but not all shops will mention this important detail. Grip Walk boots must have Grip Walk bindings to the binding to function properly.
Different Ski conditions can dictate how tight you want your boots. For groomers having them a little looser isn't going to hurt anything but getting them tighter and decreasing the volume in the boot will give you more control which you can feel more in varying conditions or when you really want to send it.
I'm on board with most of what you are saying. I feel, however, you've missed the most important thing about comfortable ski boots, which is DRY! If you want warm feet, you have to have dry boots, dry socks, and dry feet. I carry a hand towel and fresh ski socks in my boot bag. When I put my boots on, everything is dry. This also means throughly drying my boots overnight. I can pull my liners out. We couldn't do that with my wife's, but a boot dryer works fine. However, you can not buckle up the boots while they are drying. Leaving the boots buckled will likely make them a little easier to put on, but to me, retightening after a couple of warm-up runs is preferable and perhaps safer.
Agree with top buckles first. My process is power strap as tight as possible, top two buckles not tight, flex boot a few times to lever heel back into place, tighten top two buckles, re-tighten power strap, do bottom buckles, just tight enough to seal out snow. A good boot fitter making your boots fit your feet is essential if your feet don't match the "standard" boot last.
Depends on how you ski for the day. Conditions dictate how much volume you want to take out of the boot for the day and how tight you want to get them, it's much easier with the tool and not all ski buckles are the same. Some have easier grips and some are sharper or harder to close with gloves on.
No, it's a response to the explosion in touring popularity and al just makes walking in them way easier and safer on slippery terrain (like a wet ski lodge floor). Also, if your bindings are even remotely new, they will accommodate Gripwalk and all other soles under the MNC umbrella.
Cant agree on this : why? I have custom fitted boots,if l buckle them as you suggest, l can't get into them, l leave them unbuckled =all good when l start season
These are custom fitted boots in the video. I try to keep my boots warm until I’m going to put them on which makes them much easier to get into and more comfortable.
Thank you so much for this video! I recently bought new boots, and the shop mistakingly did not notice that the GripWalk shoe did not work with the alpine binding I had on my skis (and neither did I). I could have had a serious ski accident, if I would not have come across this video and double checked with the shop. Thank you!!
Great tips. I might have to pay more attention to the last one as I noticed that the equipment rented out is kind of old and I'm planning on buying a modern boot
Some pros will tell you to redo the top buckle after the rest of the boot is buckled. They buckle it up, then unbuckle the top, then tighten the powerstrap UNDER the top buckle (to the extent it fits), then rebuckle the top.
@@huckmart2017 Same. YOu really should be checking your boots every hour or so. I check mine after every couple of runs. They definitely loosen - but your feet will also considerably swell. These tips are all aimed at beginners. If my DIN settings were slightly wrong i'd break my legs.
@@buckspath Doesn't make any sense. Top buckle should be at maximum - its critical - that's why the power strap is above it. It provides the leverage to allow the top buckle to be done up a second time. IF the power strap is below the top buckle then nothing is holding the very top of the boot tongue and you get movement. Maybe you ski slow.
Elevate toe and pull up on the liner behind the calf. Tap heel on floor to drive heel into heel pocket of the liner. With the boot toe elevated and heel on floor buckle the instep, toe, ankle, then shin buckles. This will insure you foot stays aligned and secure in the liner and not move forward out of the heel pocket.
