Expression of a hobby regarding blades and my journey within the hobby. Within the Channel I intend to review and recommend to Buy/Barrow/or Avoid the knife based on my observation and experience with the knife. This channel was created to have discussions with people regarding knives and I will continue to evolve reviews to include information that can be related to.
Since my favourite locking mechanisms are the axis lock or variations of it tip down is not an option. That said ive experimented with standard sized blades and find deployment of the bkade more natural tip up and also closing the knife and returning it to the pocket isbmire natural.
i am a tip up guy, because of the deployment. what is the quickest way a folding knife can be deployed? emerson wave. it literally cannot be quicker than "already open when it's taken out". and emerson wave requires what type of carry? exactly. tip up.
Hey brother, not sure if it's been mentioned but I think your test would be improved by using a little block or table to lay the Lyman level on as you pull it, and also a block, vise or stopper that's fastened onto the table that you but the body of the knife against so that as it gets pulled it's not your wrist or fingers producing any sort of resistance or counterforce
always wanted one but missed out until i found one in the storage room of my knife dealer (old stock, his last one, he didn't even know it was there😂) ended up paying $30 for a brand new 1760 bw. and i agree on the action, the first 50 flicks were a mess, after a bit of oil it started to smoothen out pretty fast and runs really smooth now. thank you for the interesting additional infos, always eager to hear some knife history.
Yeah I can see that as an option for the model, the main thing for me is I want a blade that isn't recurved. Granted that is the 710 but there can be a slight modification.
For the price I wish they had titanium scales vs aluminum or lower the price for aluminum and offer a higher priced ti scale version. Love the design it’s gorgeous
I can see that, some of the natural grades for aluminum do very well. I don't believe there would be a lower price variant unless they do a molded handle like the Bugout.
Hi, how are you? I watched your videos comparing the different types of oils to use on knives and found them very interesting. Due to the country I live in, I don't have access to specific oils, so I only use mineral oil. One question I have is whether I should apply mineral oil to the blade and internal mechanisms of the knife. I know it protects against rust but at the same time it attracts a lot of dirt, especially from pockets. When I asked Civivi about this, since I have one of their knives, they responded that the knife should always have a thin layer of oil, whereas Kershaw, which I also own a knife from, said it's best not to apply any oil at all because, according to them, it causes more rust than not using oils. So, I've seen that there's no consensus. The last question I have is if you know if there is any problem with leaving mineral oil in contact with micarta and G10.
Thank you for watching that video that took a long time and not many took the time to watch it. In general if they are using ceramic bearings and detent balls it is not needed. When you really break it down it depends on your conditions you use your knife in. If the knife is older and is using steel bearings or detent balls I would recommend oil or sometimes grease for detent ball and between washers. There is normally a break in for knives and the oil could help with the smoothness until that point. Also if there is debris on the path you don't really need to take the knife apart you could just do a drop of oil. I haven't seen an issue but it is an oil that doesn't dry out like some other oil so it will keep the micarta fabrics oiled. I personally use a lubricant on my knives and don't take them apart as much as some others.
@@BladeBanter Thank you very much for the response, yesterday Benchmade responded to me and it has been 2 weeks since I sent the email to them. I believe they are trying to convince people to buy their proprietary oil, as I received the most absurd response among all the companies. He told me that mineral oil is known to corrode ferrous materials, I have proof that this was said here. This information is not found anywhere, only they have access to this information.
@@CorruptionManXinteresting haven't heard of that i did locate an article that references this but I haven't looked into it very long. blog.engineeredfluids.com/mineral-oil-corrosive-sulfur-impacts-on-immersed-electronics?hs_amp=true
@@BladeBanter Yes, I've seen this and other articles that talk about negative impacts of mineral oil. But they always mention proprietary mineral oils that have more chemical additives in their composition, not pure pharmacy-grade mineral oil. However, the study you sent talks about the possibility of contaminants in pure mineral oil leading to corrosion. Anyway, I won't take any more of your time; I'll continue using mineral oil since many people use it. I just find it funny that there isn't a consensus among the manufacturers themselves. Again, I appreciate your attention in answering my questions.
@@CorruptionManX oh no problem I enjoy researching things and I do want to revisit the test but I want to find something more, scientific I guess where each lubricant would be fresh and could test it short term and longer term. I was almost thinking like an engine crank shaft that a electric motor would be attached at the front. Could run some cycles back and forth at slow speeds. The disconnect to manually measure resistance. Or if each had their own there would be a small motor that didn't have enough power to move the arm for direct metal to metal and a counter to see which "fails" first. I think in general some oil or lubricant is better than raw material to reduce moisture. Just my thought
I used to have one of the these, a blue one over here in Australia. I unfortunately lost it when I had people over to help me move house. Do you guys know a sneaky squirrel way of being able to import another one at all? They are really difficult to get through customs and I don't want to spend that much money just for it to get confiscated. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Craig.
Thanks Zach put in your video showing the springs. I was going to include the part with Jon but heard some music in the background so decided against it.
I bought The Livewire nothing to brag about ,Sense i havent Gotten my Proof Strike i can't Compare But The Gen3 Combat Trodoon Mycrotech with Dual springs is My last otf Purchase.The switch is hard to open on The other Microtech's The livewire i can open The Dualspring is super eaisy . Old age makes a Difference .
I wanted the wood but got the g10 for $25 with light detent to just try it. Afraid I would drop it carrying it daily and wood would break also. It looks cool though, for $25 I’ll be carrying it for EDC for sure.great steel for that price and nice blade shape. Pretty sure the cutting surface is straight so will be easily sharpened
I own the original and dlc. I know there are more complainers than fans of the Narrows. At the end of the day if you love it and can afford it so be it. If you hate it and can/can't afford it, so spend your money somewhere else. As collectors we have all types of models right? You made a good video breaking down everything. From the patents, paying their workers and the list goes on. The uniqueness of the Narrows also adds to the price just like any other product out there that has its own uniqueness. I own Kershaw, Spyderco, Microtech, Vero, Benchmade, Sparrow and some others. Do you, and i'll do me? 😂
Yup that's how it goes with the hobby there are knives for everyone. Appreciate the comment on the video. Haven't heard of Sparrow knives will look that up.
I calculated from this data how manufacturer brands deviated (on average) from the average HRC for each steel. This perhaps will offer some indication of whether those brands lean towards harder or softer heat treats: Artisan Cutlery 2.1 Ganzo 1.7 Bark River 1.5 Hinderer 1.3 Honey Badger 1.3 Chris Reeve 1.2 Vosteed 1.2 Kershaw 0.8 Protech 0.6 WE 0.6 Rike 0.6 Spyderco 0.5 Chaves 0.3 Civivi 0.3 Cold Steel 0.3 Real Steel 0.3 Massdrop 0.3 BRS 0.2 LT Wright 0.2 Byrd 0.1 Petrified Fish 0.1 Benchmade 0 CJRB 0 Ferrum Forge 0 Reate -0.1 TRM -0.1 Twosun -0.1 Drop -0.2 ESEE -0.2 Microtech -0.2 QSP -0.3 Buck -0.4 CRKT -0.4 Manly -0.4 ZT -0.4 Ruike -0.5 James -0.7 Viper -0.7 Bestech -0.8 Ka Bar -0.8 Steel Will -0.8 Tuyaknife -0.8 Fox -1 Kubey -1.1 Strider -1.1 Kizer -1.3 Boker -1.5 Lionsteel -1.6 Hogue -1.7 Morakniv -1.7 Ontario -1.8 MKM -2.2 I discarded all brands that fraudulently advertised steels and all rows with missing steel ID or HRC data. Its not too surprising Ka Bar, Mora and Ontario run soft given they're mostly doing outdoor fixed blades. Reputations of Chris Reeve, Protech, and Spyderco are earned. I was surprised that Kershaw distinguished itself from CRKT, and WE/Civivi distinguished itself from Kizer. And the reputation for softer heat treats of Italian knifemakers MKM, Lionsteel, Fox and Viper were fully supported. I need to look into Ganzo.
Thanks for being honest! My recommendation is put the knife away, it will become a collectible once the market forces lead the company to the natural conclusion.
Nice, I didn't realize I was that low in the number system. There is a lot of work that was done and just hope they can figure out how to get it dialed in.
TAME THE TWANG !!! so simple ... disassemble knife. Take q-tip, remove cotton from one end. tuck that into the inside of the spring. Doesn't take much to dampen the vibration of the unsprung spring. Someone should tell Medford before they embarrass themselves with a Twangy OTF first time out. They are already using MT OTF designs as most everyone does these days. Curious MT never solved the twang either ... just takes a tuft of cotton : )
Nice I'll see how it comes back as they agreed it should not sound like that. Also my need to order their bit to open the knife up too. The internals are not the Microtech mechanism. Just hope they can dial it in.
I have a couple dozen OTFs…microtechs, guardian tacticals, bokers, kershaw, lightning, clones…for $600 I’m not impressed…it looks like a cheap Recon 40 knockoff.
Thanks for the input as I know the internals are different, but will see how it is when it comes back as they agreed that it should not make that sound.
This is why I spent $1500 on HAWK OTF, zero blade play and works every time. They should stick to the style of knives he builds best, I get wanting to expand your line of offerings but they should have thought this through a little more.
If it hasn’t been said here, Greg indicated that the ends of the springs will be vulcanized so they don’t have spring-ring in the production run. You’re looking at a proof strike, so don’t get too wrapped up in the minutia just yet.
For the price point, there should be NO issues! I would much rather own (and do) a Microtech. Just my opinion, but Medford knives have always been overpriced.
Yeah I got in early to support the work the team does there as there is a lot invested in time and expense. Hope it gets ironed out on this next trip in.
Do waste money on an OTF that makes a noise like that and $600 price tag. When you can buy 3 better knifes that open just as fast but silent or mostly silent.
