This channel has grown over the years. I am a single dad who likes to do a bit of my own work to save money. I have quite a few videos here for my journey in fixing and maintaining my beloved 2009 Volvo S60, which I've currently passed on to my oldest daughter. I also have videos for my 2015 Volvo, and the 2004 Toyota Matrix I got for my youngest daughter. I also have videos for some items around the house, such as installing the new water softener for the house, and replacing the rollers on my Samsung dryer.
I also do product reviews. If you have anything you would like an HONEST review for, please let me know. You send it to me, I'll test it, and I'll make a video on my thoughts, good AND bad (so be prepared).
Thanks for watching guys, and let me know if you have any ideas for things you would like to see.
Don't forget to check out my other channel too! Relic Man Floyd Metal Detecting ru-vid.com/show-UCfuxrGESNiCdoXeNqfxyiag
Hi. I have XC40 and i cannot even start my car, can this be because of this secondary battery, i thought it is only for start/stop function not for the first start/turn on the car.
I don't think so. Normally the auxiliary battery is only there to provide power to components of the car like the radio, lights, and fans when the start/stop is active. It isn't involved in the starting of the vehicle. Measure voltage on your 2nd battery. It should be around 12.6+ normally, maybe 12.4. If so, then it's probably just fine.
Just did this repair on my 2004 Vibe today. The symptoms were as stated in this video- front end rattle over small bumps. I lifted one side at a time, but used a second jack under the A-arm to equalize the swaybar, and that works fine (wasn't under tension or dangerous in any way). I replaced the stock units with the beefier Moog offerings which have grease fittings so you can at least try to maintain them. The rattle went away completely after replacement.
On top of this. A paper out of MIT in 2005 proposed replacing the standard oil ring with a 'Low Tension Oil Control Ring. Most manufacturers went with this only to find that the expected benefits such as lower engine friction leading to better economy and reduced hamrful emissions, only lasted for about 50,000 kms or until the oil ring got choked with unburned carbon. This dragged more oil up into the combustion chamber greatly exacerbating the problem. From what I can gather, most manufacturers redesigned the oil rings and a better solution introduced in 2016 engines. But imagine all those poor people who were unaware of these problems and paid in full. A bigger scam than Volkswagen emissions.
My partners Volvo V40 suffered the same problem with the oil rings in the T4 engine. However here in Australia, Volvo's Customer Service are exceedingly unhelpful, even though the Australian Consumer Law (ACL) say that they should fix it for free. Volvo Customer Service, here in Australia, have an unfortunate reputation. So I took my problem to two government bodies, the ACCC and ACT Fair Trading. Volvo stonewalled them too. An excuse was that they provided the parts and so my partner should pay for labour. "Besides", they said, "the car had done 114,000 kms". They chose to ignore that we had been complaining about excessive oil use from 40,000 kms. And there was a settled Class Action in the US leading to them extending the warranties. ACL even describes this very thing as a Major Fault. "No it isn't!", says Volvo. Sounds like Monty Python. The upshot is now that we go to court. We are encouraged by the ACCC and ACT Fair Trading.
Why would you need drilled and slotted rotors in the rear if you're not drifting or drive in a way that uses the e-brake. Weight shouldn't be a concern in a xc60 right?
Wow, here I am doing my XC70s pcv job at 211k miles wondering how the hell my intercooler hose could have developed a 2 inch tear in the underside of the mid-section of the hose and then this video shows up in my feed. I have no idea how these P2 cars manage to run effortlessly with a collapsed lung
Question, if I can ignore the message every single day that would be okay right? I mean like there are no warning message or annoying beeping tones right?
@@FloydNashFixItDad thank you so much for your reply 🙏🙏 Im now using volvo s90 t8 2019, the rear lights are only partially LEDs, the rear indicators and back up lights, including rear foglight are halogen bulbs.. But the resistor like in this video looks very complicated to install (for me myself), So if I can ignore the light bulb error message every single day then I think I should be good to go 😆😆🙏🙏
Why is it that these Volvo's have a "service port" that let's Volvo service Tech's check oil with a dip stick and not the owner? Blue dyed hair 20 year Olds, that's why. 10k between oil changes? Not me!
I don't agree that it has anything to do with youth or hair color. Plenty of my kids friends (college age) dye their hair but also have used cars (broke azz college kids after all), and know how to check their oil. It's the parents that are the reason manufacturers aren't putting a way to check the oil on modern cars. They are more interested in taking selfies it seems, than in knowing how anything works. I know one lady that never checked her oil, ignored the warning lights on the dash, and ended up with a seized engine. Her kids warned her too! Either way, I still don't like it. I want my dipstick.
I have the same oil burning issue, however Volvo stated that I was outside the extended warranty and not willing to replace the pistons. I love the car however, this will be my last Volvo since they refuse to fix the engine.
My 2000 V70 is a totally different animal, but is silky smooth from idle to redline. I can be near full throttle in 4th gear at 1700 rpm and it's just purring along with no discernable vibration. It does have quite a high idle though, at 850 rpm. If it ever drops below 850 for any reason (as it can just before coming to stop after downshifting to 1st) it does start vibrating quite harshly, but beyond 850 - just marvelous driving. Miraculously my engine burns no oil, although the timing cover is seeping and will need to be addressed soon. The issues I'm having with this car are a lack of power at high rpm (4500+) where the engine just doesn't seem to breath well, and I have a little vibration at 70-75 mph that feels like a bent wheel but it's not bad enough to worry about right now. I would love to get 200k miles out of my V70 but I don't know if the automatic transmission will get there.
I think the 2000 and 2001 were the ones with potential transmission issues. Just keep the fluid changed, and filter if it has one and that should help some. If you're pulling hard everywhere else but in the 4500+ range, then you could just have worn spark plugs. Weak coil packs could cause troubles but less likely. Fuel injectors that have a poor spray pattern could cause troubles too, and explain some low RPM vibration. Clogged exhaust, like a partially clogged Catalytic converter could also cause issues by creating a restriction. That will definitely rob power. Hopefully you can get it figured out. My 2009 2.5 was also silky smooth. I loved the way that engine sounded.
@@FloydNashFixItDad Here's the thing though. The spark plugs were replaced with genuine OEM plugs 20k miles ago, and that didn't improve or make things worse. I had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced 15k miles ago, no change. I had the fuel injectors forcibly cleaned at the same time, no change. I had the catalytic converter inspected by 3 different shops, all 3 said it had no restriction. The fact that it runs as smoothly as it does with no error codes tells me to leave the coil packs alone. The moment one starts acting up, they're all getting replaced. I actually did clean the MAF sensor at one point, and that did make a difference, but only below 2500 rpm. I've essentially given up trying to find the issue. I know something's wrong with it, the shops I've taken it to agree that something's wrong with it, but until it gets diagnosably worse, it'll stay wrong. As for the transmission, it has no filter but the fluid was changed at 32k and 65k, and I already have the fluid to change it again at 97k, which I will reach in about 6-8 months.
I initially bought some Detroit Axle rotors from eBay and then I returned them and bought some Max Brakes- smooth rotors…. I was gonna go with the slotted/drilled, but I don’t go very far. I went with the smooth😊
I don’t know maybe you can help me with this question, but I don’t get the black covered rotors?? isn’t that black film gonna just peel off in the long run?😮
Cheaper isn't always better in brakes, but I don't think expensive is better either. I also really like Raybestos for rotors. They make coated rotors that are excellent in the midwest where we salt our roads.
So far so good. I got no advice on when to change the oil afterwards so about 2000 miles I decided I didn't feel good about waiting any longer after a major service. I can't get the 0W-20 Volvo Spec Castrol oil in the US, so I ordered the oil change kit from FCP Euro that uses the LiquiMoly Volvo Spec 0W-20. I'm on about 4,500 on that oil change, with 500 to go before I will change it. I don't like to go the 10,000 miles Volvo sets for these cars. I feel that's too much. With 4,500 miles on this oil change, so far it still says oil level is OK. I check weekly just as a precaution. I am going to take a sample of the oil when I change it and send it off to be analyzed to see if they have any indication of wear. I love this car and hope to have it a long time, but I am looking for a backup vehicle as well, just in case!
@@FloydNashFixItDad Amazing success story! On mine a 2012 S60 T4 with the B4164T engine oil consumption has gone in the last 15,000 Km (from 115,000 Km to 130,000 Km) to 1 liter per 1,000 Km. Here, in Costa Rica where I live, we are orphan Volvo owner's. There's not even a parts breakdown for this 1.6 liter Ford Sigma Europe engine! Worse, no extended warranties, no service recalls, no nothing! So I wanted to know if to embark in this process of replacing pistons and rings was going to be a total waste of money. Perhaps not. On my dad's 1990 Toyota Corolla I had a "ring job" performed because the punny little 1.3 liter engine was smoking oil. The ring job was performed and it eliminated the smoke but not the oil consumption. Which in a non catalist vehicle was no problem. But not on my Volvo! It will certainly kill the catalyst in no time. On the tropics, the dealer recommended SAE 10W/30. I started using it and replacing the oil every 5,000 Km or 6 months and filter every 10,000 Km or yearly. I imported the filter from Europe a MANN W7008. Then at 90,000 Km of ownership the engine started developing all kinds of oil leaks. The valve advance solenoids, the oil-gas separator, then the thermostat housing, then a Y contraption that delivers water to somewhere, etc. I even had it replaced on my means and on my research the core of the turbo. As the intercooler piping was seeping motor oil. This turbo core part that costed a song, but the labor to replace it was hefty! The punny little Costarican market knows and punishes these otherwise sound vehicles! At 120,000 Km I started using SAE 15W/40 to no avail as it has the same rate of consumption of 1 liter per 1,000 Km. Tomorrow I will have a customer of my printing shop bring a boroscope to check the cylinder sleeves for scratches. If all is well, I will import the pistons and rings from England and find a reputable tech to perform the job and keep the Volvo for some 10 years more, I hope. When new, these S60's costed here in Costa Rica US$60,000. I bought mine in 2016 for US$26,000 with 52,000 Km on the odometer. Today, as is, where is, it will bring short of $5,000. There are quite a few with transmission issues. The MPS6 is the same Ford Powershift only with the wet clutch. I had mine overhauled after two weeks of the warranty expiring. Luckily with the mention of the phrase "hidden defect" struck a chord in the service department and they agreed to split the US$4,000 invoice... This transmission, a double clutch has been quite problematic on a mountainous country with stop and go traffic! On the other hand, my 1995 GMC Jimmy SLS with 350,000 Km burns gas, ok but oil consumption is negligible at 1/2 quart per 5,000 Km. It's a good example of American iron! Thanks for your input!
My back brake pad started grinding my rotor and last time I did brakes was on my 98 Tahoe, which was so easy to do.. I’m watching this video because I have an S60 now and this video looks very helpful. Thank you.
Just picked up on your video which is very good, you're correct on the BMS but slightly incorrect on the two batteries locations for European Volvos, also the hidden battery on your car is the booster start/stop battery, the one in the engine bay is your main auxiliary battery, it takes a boost from the hidden battery. With European cars the main battery is located in the engine bay just like yours , however the booster start /stop battery is located behind the front bumper hidden down low on the passenger side wheel arch, an absolute nightmare to change, as the whole front bumper must be removed to access the booster start/ stop battery , it is the ONLY way to get access to the start/stop booster battery, many owners this side of the pond have spent ages removing the inner wheel arch thinking theres access to the battery only to find theres no access, the whole front bumper must come off. Whoever at Volvo designed this on the European model needs sacking !!!!!! Also any time after changing any of the batteries or doing a charge the BMS should be reset and the car left standing for a good 12 hours or so.
I have 2016 XC60 T5 2.5 which received the piston ring replacement under warranty in Apr/May this year. It now runs great, no issues with driving at all. However, when I park the car after driving almost any distance, a loud popping sound occurs roughly every 30 seconds or so for 5 - 10 minutes. It also does that when I first start driving for the first few miles, though not as noticeable as when it's parked in the garage. I've put about 2K miles on it since the piston ring replacement 2 months ago. I took it back to the dealer who contacted Volvo engineering. Volvo engineering told them they were aware of the problem, that it's due to the material used in the piston ring replacement, that they are working on a fix, but that they don't presently have one. My car can't be the only T5 with this problem if it's due to the materials used and I've like to know if anyone else is experiencing this. Thanks!
The hissing souns is the turbo boost pressure control solenoid. How do I know? Because I broke mine on accident somehow. The hissing sound is the sound coming out of the loose hose which acts as input to the solenoid. $90 brand new, the plastic cracks easily on the nipple for the hose.
For those that are wondering, first of all, there are two part numbers for the XC70 - 31261371 and 31261372. In the parts catalog these called either an intercooler pipe or a charge air pipe. Typically, you can acquire a genuine one for about $66.00 to $84.00 - Personally, I would've purchased a genuine hose, but NOT at "stealership" prices.
That clips makes factory assembly faster and more accurate. The employee has 45 seconds on average to install each part before another rolls into the process station
@jiangyi7617 certainly. That would probably only be a temporary fix though. If it won't hold adequate charge a battery charger can't fix that. Eventually it'll get worse
From what I find online it should be near the fuel filler neck in the rear right of the car. The filter I believe has the inlet and outlet on the same end of the filter.
I just followed these instructions to repair my sub. Plugged in in and no buzzing 5 minutes later I heard a Pop and the new caps I installed just exploded. I installed them with the stickers matched up as per the old ones and matched the ratings. Any idea what could have went wrong? Thanks
My dad found the chinese version of those pumps for $12 so we bough many just because we couldn't Believe how cheap they were, it actually blows my mind how they can do it so cheap, the bearings are actually ceramic bushings! Only issue we have found so far is, the power cord stinks, and the pump cover were the water inlet goes into the impeller is not well made so there is water recirculation within the pump making it lose some pressure but still not bad for $12, full metal construction and all.
