Cool test. In the setup menus of each UPS you can adjust how sensitive they are to "bad power" and the min/max voltage to trigger the switchover. I wonder if tweaking the setup you could make this work better with multiple units?
I have often wondered how to do this, and I must say that is soooo cool! A couple of suggestions for people like me: I had a tough time hearing you most of the video. You were giving us primo information, but I just couldn't hear you. Maybe using a microphone would help this next time as it would catch information as you walked and moved along. Also, I would love to see more about the testers and tools that you used, which ones are good ones, and where I might buy them. Would love to see up close what you are doing with the items you are clipping on the end of the wire. It would also be nice to see a clear shot of the tester's screen, and to have more explanation on some of the problems that you encountered along the way. Some questions: if a line kept failing no matter how much you cut off the end, what would you do? How did you use that string to bring the wires out in the garage? My most important question: do you think all this work was worth it? Is the speed of your computers substantially better now that you can plug right into it, instead of using wireless? It would have been cool to see a before and after of you copying those files over, to see how the speed improved. Overall, THANK YOU for posting this. I am surprised more people haven't seen it. Wouldn't everyone like to have ethernet in every room?
I have links to some of the products in the video description. It's possible that there could be a break in the line somewhere in the middle of the run. If that's the case, the thing to do would be to break out the drywall and re-run a new line. I'd probably never do that and simply accept wifi. I personally prefer the dependability of ethernet. In the event I started having connectivity issues, I'd never really know if it was my modem, isp, or wifi bugging out, and having a hard line eliminates one of those as being the issue. Wifi has come a long way, but I am forever scarred by previous wifi equipment. It may not be worth it for everyone.
I was a roll tender for a few years in the early 80s. It's dirtiest, most toxic job in printing. Spent the rest of my career in the prepress department on the stripping table and Mac.
So, to reduce the water pressure (from 105 to 80), we turn the screws counterclock, correct? I have the NR3XL 15-75. Does that mean that if the water from the city comes at 130 this one can't reduce it beyond to after 75? Do I need a bigger PRV i.e 130? If there's another faucet open, the presure come down to like 40. But if I only open one bib it says 105. Am I missing something here.
