Join me on my journey to take a mall crawler Land Rover LR4 and turn it into a reliable off-road and overland vehicle, oh it has to do double duty as the family hauler as well.
You named 5 countries that drive on the left (steering wheel on the RH side of the car) Just for info there are 76 counties that drive on the left not just the 5 you mentioned plus 'a couple of outlying islands'
Do you drop the vehicle before tightening the caps completely? Doesn’t the bar twist after lowering? I thought all suspension parts had to be under load before final tightening. Just wondering
Hey there, I just found your channel after buying a LR4 last month... Man, your videos are great! Awesome camera angles; explanations perfect for my level (not a mechanics); lots of tips to pick up along the way and some cool humor on top of everything! I think you have a good receipe, keep at it! Cheers from Canada!
Hi. That is not the filler plug. I made the same mistake. I believe that it is a locating axle. The filler plug looks like a filler plug, and is a short tapered thread. It is also an 8mm Allen . It is small and so easy to miss, but it is also much easier to get to and is located on the rear of the diff casing. I just hope that by removing it I have not let something drop, but all seems OK
I think you're right- the actual(?) filler plug is visible at 6:30 adjacent to the black splash cover, on a small plinth on the side of the case toward the rear. It sits completely flush with the case, and in this case is caked with mud. That is above the exhaust and appears to be slightly easier to access.
Great job and great diy. Can you please send me the link to the arm puller you used? I’m having trouble removing mine. I used every tool available on Amazon but no luck. They’re baked in 😢
Strictly speaking no. But I always err on the side of safety and use them. If you’re in a bind then you can lift the vehicle from the center of the front crossmember (have a look in the manual about jacking points) and remove both front tires and slide them under the chassis as a safety precaution. Again I’d only use this in an emergency. Invest in a good set of axle stands. They’ll pay you back many times over.
Hi. The Land Rover plugs have thread seal applied already, Taft us the blue or white stuff you see painted on the threads. I used normal ptfe thread tape available from any hardware store. When you apply this remember there’s a right and wrong way. You want to put the tape on in the direction that you’re screwing in the thread. So if you hold the plug and move the tape around the tape moved in a clockwise direction.
i just changed the front struts, lower and upper arms, ball joints and sway links on my TDV8 2008 L322 (300K kms), what a difference it made! still, I forgot about the bushings! now there is that knock you were talking about, next job after the rear shocks, the rear has started to make a horrible noise recently and i noticed the dampers were leaking oil!
Hello .,I have 2012 RRS supercharged. my radiator fan is always running very very loudly , but the engine temperature gauge remains on quarter whereas outside temperature gauge is showing around 20 degrees Celsius more than the actual temperature. It’s giving P0526 code(cooling fan speed sensor circuit). It happened during 2000 kilometres trip . Thanks in advance.
Start with checking the control fuse, then relay and finally the connections to the fan. If all of these are ok then you’re probably looking at a new fan. Also try switching off the ac / climate control as this can override the fan controller to run. If the fan stops and returns to normal then get the refrigerant charge checked. You could be low. Good luck.
They do, always default to the instructions from LR if available. Remember that the type of plug dictates the torque. Square head and recessed hex head are different.
Thanks for your great video. That is the next job i Need to do on my l322. A few weeks ago i changed pur the coupling rods but Not the bushings…🙈. I‘m still learning 🤷♂️ All the best from Austria
Hey mate - you quote 1.3 L of the oil - my D4 workshop manual quotes '1.5L plus or. minus 2%'... Is there a model change or something we all need to be aware of (D4, 2016 MY TDV6 with 8 speed ZF auto transmission in my case). Cheers.
Thanks for commenting. I’ll double check my info. But if your manual states something different then I’d go with that. The basic principles remain the same though.
To take a break from drum brakes that are doing my head in, I thought I'd accomplish something easy, to boost my flagging self confidence: I'll change the bushes at the front. One side is already up ready to change discs/pads. Two 10mm bolts; what could be easier. I have new wobble extensions that are going to validate my decision to buy them. The more the bolt is coming away the fighter it is, and I'm doing a bit on one bolt then the other to prevent any strain. They're both out 1/2" , one looks slightly angled... There's a strain somewhere... Maybe I have to take The new struts off, that have a sneaky plate t'other side requiring an extremely slim 17mm spanner... which I learned sloooowly when I was taking the old ones off. Then I find you. "Pre-loading", you say. So I just have to jack the other side up to the same height? I'll try that! Thanks for the clue. I can sleep soundly tonight.
Funny you should say that. I’ve the lifeguard 8 on the shelf ready to go. Just need the filter pan and I’m ready to go. Time is in short supply right now so hopefully I’ll get it done soon.
Is your ARB the active type ? I have a 2008 RRS tdv8 that sounds like an old metal framed bed when I go over a slight bump . These seem to need replacing every 6 or 7 thousand miles in my experience, great video thanks
The anti toll bar is not active sadly. 6-7k mikes is not very long. At least they’re cheap enough. Maybe a poly bush would be better in the active installation. It’s something to look into. Great dog by the way. I grew up with old English sheepdogs.
Nope. Only when you replace the motor. Then it’s just a function test. Every time you start the engine the locking diff motor goes through a full lock unlock calibration. That’s the clicking you can hear from the rear.
I ordered them from landrover Paramus. They had the cheapest price out of everywhere I tried. They make sure a difference to the wind noise in the cabin it’s hard to explain but for me well worth the cost.
Land Rover actually made a tsb for these vehicles and there was a revision to cover the holes at top and bottom to keep water from trickling down into the vehicle I believe your was modified u seem to have now undone the modification
Thank you for the support of the channel and comment. The new A trim pieces that we re-installed had foam gasketing around the locating dowels, both top and bottom in addition to the foam blocks at the bottom. Without these dowels the trim piece can move up and down about 1 cm, hence their requirement for a tight fit. Also of note is the much heavier gaskets provided by the original Land Rover Clips as opposed to the aftermarket ones commonly available. If you could provide the TSB number you're referencing then I'd be happy to post it here for the community.
@@wrenchnroverin222 Javaune might be referring to TSB #LA-501-006. I came across it when trying to research water ingress in my '06 LR3. By the way, great video.. easy to follow along and understand. Thanks for posting. Looking to replace my cowl to see if that helps with the water ingress.
Thanks for your video I have tried everything to get mine off a 2011 Lr4 so was hoping you had some suggestions ? Here is my video hoping it’s clear enough but it even freaking broke my pneumatic tool. Very frustrated at this point. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-arFxN7Jfq2E.html I have contemplated cutting the dang thing off and buying a new pulley and fan clutch assembly.
Hate to break this to you. But you’re trying to tighten the fan clutch onto the pulley. It’s a normal direction thread, not a left handed one. Also it’s easier if you support the pulley with either a large flat bladed screwdriver, although I’d not recommend that as you can slip easily. I rented the tools for the job from o’rileys, good luck! If you’re still having problems then reach out again.
@@wrenchnroverin222 Thanks I appreciate the reply, but I am super confused the service manual says it is a Left hand thread, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rsS7eWJkgyo.html but you are not the first person to tell me I'm tightening it. Just trying to confirm as I broke a second tool. And I did order the actual pully holder part number from amazon shown in this service manual. Please check out the video above showing the manual pages. Am I reading it incorrectly?
@@kevincollman7137 this is the first instance that the manual is wrong, that I have found. So don’t beat yourself up over this. There’s a lot of videos of people struggling out there, which is part of the reason I put this one up.
With regards to the tools, I borrowed them from O’rileys. It’s such an infrequent job that I didn’t see the need in purchasing something special. But that was just my circumstance.
Nice work again bud , just a quick 2 minute watch. Im looking forward to break in work tonight . Give it the appropriate appreciation it deserves. Keep them coming . Check out LR Time you will probabably love it . Its a German couple and their content is smashing . They run Disco 3 and a Disco 4 . Why not we're all landrover nuts . Great quality content from you again keep them coming !
Just found you and subbed immediately I'm a landrover nut . I have a late 2013 l320 Sport . A total DIY approach when I can . Keep the videos coming top class stuff . From Manchester 🇬🇧
That’s great to hear. These are totally diy’able with the right info. Thanks for subscribing. I’ve a series I’m putting together about the coolant system cross over pipe replacement which covers all the belts, water pump, intake valve inspection and supercharger inspection. So look out for that. It’s basically the same for any of the supercharged V6 or V8 petrol/gas engines that are in the range rovers/land rovers/Jaguars