I LOVE My 1923 Model T Ford! And am enjoying Your FANTASTIC Video's! I also listen to 1920's and 1930's music. Especially in My garage working on the 1920's Cars! So You as are a man after my heart playing this AWESOME music with your wonderful videos!
1. Aermore. 2. Rocky Mountain brakes. 3. Ruckstell 2-speed axle. 4. Dipstick. 5. Grease nipples. 6. Door seals. 7. Sealed ball bearing hub. 8. Float-A-Ford shock absorbers. 9. Electric fuel pump. 10. Timkin tapered roller bearings. 11. Scissor jack. 12. Jack stands. 13. Mirrors. 14. Suicide doors. 15. Turn signals w/hazard position on stalk. 16. Moto-meter. 17. Spotlight. 18. Brake lights. 19. Oil filter screen w/ magnet. 20. Klaxon horn. These are what I want. The original horn will still be there, but the Klaxon will be for if that isn't enough. The Aermore will be for if neither of the horns work for some reason.
The rear main thrust wears on the front end due to the clutch spring hauling back on the crank when the clutch is released. May I respectfully suggest you put the shim on the front end of the cap so the magneto clearance remains in specs. I think your method in ingenious. I have done this repair job a few times but don’t advertise it. I build up the babbit surface on the front of the cap and machine it down to proper width. It’s crude but works fine. Model T respond well to such things. When I babbit model T’s I put a bronze thrust on the front of the rear cap and it solves the problem permanently.
Hi Oliver thanks for this Video, can jou tel ne wäre you her this Lifter cap or Hand you Fix Thema by yourself? Please tell me how I can get them or fis them . Thanks Jorg from Germany Mai: pedalo55@gmx.de
Sorry for my delay here. Crankshaft end play, when excessive, begins to cause fly wheel parts, mostly magnets, coils, etc, to begin hitting each other as tolerances are set very close for the magneto to work properly. End play caught early will save a lot of repair and problems, but correction is problematic. My scheme outlined in this video is a takeoff of similar fixes found. Best simply do an external end play measurement as described, it will tell you all thats needed as to your next step.
All I ask is, show me your restored 1925 T Coupe or any antique auto you restored before adding negative complaints on what I have laid out here on RU-vid. All told over 20 k bucks, four years of my time, and a lot of effort and sweat. Ok? This was a first and last for me. I figure I did a pretty good job on it overall. Got a lot of enjoyment on the project too.
Decent comments and nice slides. I had the NEW T. In late 1925 the 1926 was a bit wider, the coil box was moved to the top of the engine, and the wheels were changed to 21". It also had the gas tank moved to the cowl so there was rarely a hill too steep to climb. My motometer seemed to work. If it wasn't right, the steam would let me know when the engine was hot. Mine was among the last without a headlight to fender cross bar. I did add an antique STOP lite in the middle of the spare tire with the word STOP to warn people behind that I was slowing from a high speed to maybe a stopped position. I also added chrome bumpers and brackets just in case! The only other differences, I repaired the wood wheels, stained them, and painted the removeable rims bright red with wide white wall tires. Henry would have rolled over in his grave seeing my T. Other than those beauty changes, we drove several hundred miles, I got permission to step over the ropes, and took photos of the 15 millionth T so I could make my own interior exactly original. Instead of horse hair or Spanish Moss, I used foam. I used to be called Model T.
It was good to see this nice video. My 1940 Opel Kadett ( then already in the GM Group), has the same valve layout. I have twice a 1.1 litre engine to restore. Regards from the Battle of the Bulge area, Belgium
Actually, it is the same car. And it was sold. I'm 79 now. Any future significant repair on the car was my reason to pass it on. Hope it fell into good hands. When these type of sales take place with certain antique dealership's, one does not know the buyer. And I dont. But likely the car is in hands that appreciate it and will take care of it.
No wonder the Model A was such a hit in 1928. I own a '31 Slant with many modern upgrades from the original, making it easier,safer & a better car all round to drive!
I like your video and love the music. For some reason a lot of the text in your dialogue bubbles was cut off at the edges, so I couldn’t read it. I’m very interested in improving the brakes on my Model T, so I’m watching very carefully.
Did you have a noise when driving of the crank shifting through block? My 26 just started. If I go in reverse I get a noise when it shifts one way then only does it once again when going forward. I may try this to fix it. Thanks for the video
Max, you have an excellent ear for the tunes used. I have this neat little collection of period music, much of which does fall into the time of the car and it's production. Problem is though, its older stuff, scratchy, nicks in the records, and such. So I used the ones similar and I bet your the only fella out there who spotted it. You have a great ear. Tom
For all those costumer there are looking rear brakes for Ford model T..Rocky Mountain Brakes. You can contact Bud Williams president at 1(951) 440-1451 or send E-mail at Budwilliams@Rockymtnbrakes.com
You know, i looked at the Rocky Mountain brake system, and worthy it is, the simple concern for me was expense and does this setup more represent the period add on brakes available at the time. So i chose these as they matched my needs. I looked at a neat hydraulic set up with disc brakes, but they clearly fell out of the period thing, but i bet they can stop that little car on a dime. Thanks though for the info. Tom
And this. There is the purest among us who follows the original intent on the original design. For my US Constitution, i totally agree. On my 25 T, well I get a little leeway. I am not a purest. We have a fellow show up at our mothly cruise in's with a 1911 touring that has been in his family for near 80 years. Neat little car as it has all the rust holes, patch parts screwed down, old gas headlites with Harbor Freight freebie flashlites to get home with at nite, and every possible rot and ruin a car as this can have. But it's beautiful. Character all over the place. Here is original at its peak. The owner followed his heart. I followed mine. Both cars are neat. We are both happy.
I chose to use air driven staples as opposed to hammer and tack to speed up the process of the installation. It afforded good wood penetration and ease of physical fabric stretch with a free hand as it went along. The images show wrinkle free fabric under proper tension as well. This was my first top replacement on an antique T. The use of the walkway about the car was badly needed. Any other approach would have resulted in a much less quality repair.
Fabric was the result of visiting every store in the area to see what was on hand. Several looks later the material was spotted in a literal pile of bolts upon the floor and was exactly what was needed. I had help choosing as well. Here locally i recall it was a Joanna fabric store. The original gray striped interior was all to be replaced including all cardboard backs. I wanted brown striped and this is the result. I had the seats upholstered by a car club member in that business. My talents did not reach that far.
After near one hundred years, as wood will do, cracks, splits, and penetrations from hundreds of tacks used at every top replacement, gives a fella time to consider alternatives. A great assortment of glues, epoxies, and fillers, line the shelves of many stores. The technique used here to repair the wood throughout the car proved exactly right. The use of the Loctite and the nice round tooth pick on the top revealed that this was it as to a real fix to wood restore on this T. The picks also allowed a small tack hammer to drive them lightly into position and fill all the space within any crack found. More wood the better thing. The glue used was not a gel type as wicking into the repair was essential so the free flowing type was used.
I think it's needed to reply on a few thoughts left by folk as a comment on the video presentations offered on my 25 T. I belong to a local antique auto club in my area. Membership in the 50's and all with a huge range of car types. Each have distinctive touches and all are departures from the original. None compete against the car or its owner. All reflect personal ownership pride and desire. And all look great. So its a personal choice every time. Ok?
Adding accessories or other changes was most people did right after the bought a T. Eventually some of the accessories were offered at Ford dealers. The T was a bare bones car, and things like mirrors were added to make driving easier. The T was designed in flat Michigan. The brakes on a T are not up to the task of mountain driving in Colorado, so better brakes were designed.
The neat thing about restorations, old cars, whatever, each of us have diverse views on the utility, safety, use and comfort, of the end product. This being my one and only restore, I liked being able to stop the T, the extra brakes, i am able to tell the teen behind me im gonna turn here, the turn signals, and if going uphill and i forgot to fill the tank, i got a fuel pump to save the day. All in all, worthwhile stuff. Tom
I saw the felt filter for the oil some back. Since engine and transmission share the same oil, its a two for one thing. Truth be told it is a partial filter as much of the oil is kicked about inside the transmission and misses the felt. But it is a neat idea. I thought it best to not apply it here on this car. What happens when the felt fills up with gunk? Floor out, tranny cover off, replace, put it back together. Thought it un needed. Tom
The toothpicks were a godsend as an idea but the use of a good fast acting glue, Loctite here, sets the base repair such that it can be treated much as the original wood. Saved a ton both in time and money on this one.
On the music. Much of what is on hand came from antique dealer folk who had or offered for sale a compilation cd or such. If they sounded right, they were ok with me. If you detect one out of place, your older than me. Lol Anyway, they helped set the mood for the videos. All I wanted anyway. Tom
The only fellow one has to satisfy is the one who owns it. Thats me. Old cars always have add ons. Like a fuel pump. Not period but it works. Turn signals. The look is old. At 77 i qualify too. Add ons? I got a new heart valve. Am I an original? No. The T represents history and looks good too. Aimed for that one. Got it too. Tom
I had a co-worker at the shop where I worked who had a totally stock Ford model T, and it was so original they used his car at auto shows to check the authenticity of other entrants. He drove it to work in the summer, never over 15mph, and after he died his son took it over. My favorite gadget was a pulley you attached to the rear wheel with the car jacked up. With a belt you could run a water pump, a saw or a generator just like they did with steam engines.
I bought a 1926 Model T with the lower part of rear fender cut off. With a large hole in the water jacket, all it was used for was stationary engine on a farm.
@@modeladenny1218 Yes I've actually worked on several model-T engines over the years that were used for pumping water and the like. Because they used a magneto instead of a battery, you just added modern anti-freeze and they could be left untended until needed.
@@bullettube9863 Mine came from Lincoln, Neb. I believe it came with no anti-freeze and back then many didn't know about it. The running gear was like new inside and out. But the rest showed it had been kept outside.
@@modeladenny1218 Back then people put a solution of 50/50 alcohol and water in their cars during the winter. This was impossible to do during Prohibition, which is why they either made the alcohol poisonous or bought the very expensive new glycol based antifreeze. My grand-father was a mechanic and was able to get alcohol for the town's two police cars so they turned a blind eye to him supplying other people!
@@bullettube9863 From what I was told many people just drained the water at night and refilled with water when driving. My T had so few miles on it the Ford script on the valves looked like new while the rest of the car looked as if it had been sand blasted and left in the weather. The metal was so thick it didn't matter that it had surface rust. I recently learned that southern Illinois was the worse state for Moonshine and crime of all states. Yet we only see and hear about mountain states. An Illinois Model T would be easy to keep from freezing. Plus you could drink what was left.
I think if you made this patent you would have the best gas mileage Model T ever made! pdfpiw.uspto.gov/.piw?Docid=04177779&homeurl=http%3A%2F%2Fpatft.uspto.gov%2Fnetacgi%2Fnph-Parser%3FSect1%3DPTO1%2526Sect2%3DHITOFF%2526d%3DPALL%2526p%3D1%2526u%3D%25252Fnetahtml%25252FPTO%25252Fsrchnum.htm%2526r%3D1%2526f%3DG%2526l%3D50%2526s1%3D4,177,779.PN.%2526OS%3DPN%2F4,177,779%2526RS%3DPN%2F4,177,779&PageNum=&Rtype=&SectionNum=&idkey=NONE&Input=View+first+page
