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Just from memory the L20B cylinder heads were designed with larger ports - more important was were the water jackets sat in the head. The L20 heads gad the water jacket signicantly up in the head allow much larger ports when worked. The down side with these heads was the combustion chambers were decompressioned. There are 2 heads to get head 1 is a 1600 SSS head (not sold in Aus) head 2 is the L20B head off an LPG car the did - they were not decompression heads. The decompression was done in the combustion chamber.
Thanks for the video. I have such a tiny crack in my radiator that only leaks when the engine is pumping hot. Will give this a go otherwise looks like I'll be replacing a radiator haha
They'll end up out the top of the block. I think the l16. Has smaller mains too. I've heard about l18 cranks being put in l16 blocks with a lot of machining and custom pistons and rods.
No. The L16 is 2.886 stroke L18 is 3.071. The piston would almost put the top ring out the block at tdc also the pin height is the same for L16/18 @1.50
Yeah mate. It died a few months back when it ingested some water, I should have done an autopsy for RU-vid. It had been a bit down on power due to low compression, wasn't noticeable once you were over 2k rpm, I assumed it was leaking between 2 and 3 but on pulling the head off I discovered a couple of huge gouges in number 1 due to it seizing a couple of times due to overheating. Overall It worked fantastically, if I were to have pulled the head off and seen that damage in the beginning, I'd have ended up doing a full rebuild but was it turned out, for a few dollars we got satisfactory performance for a few more years.
V912 is a replacement head, there was 2 versions.. one version was a copy of the sss 219 head with 38mm ports U67 is 200b V91 is bluebird A87 in America is open chamber, these ones don't have "made in Japan" on the side
Nice clean simple build. I picked up my first 180B last year. In Japan. 1975 610 1800SSS. Trying to keep to a budget on it because my 240 zed, hakosuka, and daily Stagea 260RS have been taking up most pf my car budget! Went fully tapped coilovers on those cars. R200 lsd in hakosuka and Z. Z also has billet rear adjustable arms/billet r200 mount. I have r31 japan market GTST front struts and wanting to do the same as you have. Reperch and spring it vs making another set of coilovers. But Id have to find some 610 top spring tops. P/o did some weird coilover spring unto 610 stock struts and put adjustable camber plates and tossed the original 610 tops. Car is a mess and still sorting it out. Nice to see the appreciation for the 180b over there. They didnt get as popular as the 1600 in Japan. Not many left nor does one see them at most car meets. But there is a small resurgence of interest in them lately.
The electrolysis bath isn't great on hardened steel stuff, you can get hydrogen cracking and whatnot, so best not to use it on engine/brake steering parts Also, the larger the parts you're derusting, the larger your sacrificial parts need to be, if you can make them as close to the same size as you can, it works better. Otherwise you need to keep cleaning off the sacrificial part often cos once it attracts all the stuff off your parts it loses effectiveness. It works somewhat in a line-of-sight fashion as well, so if you can hang a bunch more sacrificial bits all around the parts and link them together with wire you'll find it will work a lot better for you. What was the go with BOC and the gas?
Forgot to mention, if your soda solution is a bit rich it will trip the charger out when it draws too much amperage. When that happens I just take some of it out (chuck it in bottles for later) and top it back up with water until it's happy.
