Props. This is an excellent video. My only complaint is the fluid level was a bit of a worry as I bought a kit with 1 litre (1036ml indicated) But, 93mm from the top works a treat and is less than 500ml. If I might add a suggestion- electrical tape wound around the stanchion makes for an excellent, no damage seal driver with less risk of screwdriver damage. Many thanks!
quick tip: if the damper rod keeps "falling" into the fork leg before you can get the top cap screwed on to it, tie a piece of dental floss or thin string to the rod... and you'll be able to pull it up through the spring/spacer.... cheers
After watching a few vids about making a home made spring compressing tool, yours is way the simplest and to the point. It’s worth watching just for that. Everyone will have opinion on some of the strip / build you have filmed but hey....you did a good job
Is that any chance to explain about the oil weight? I am kind of confused. I am 147 pounds and I don’t know what oil to use and if it’s change the quantity of oil in the fork.
boa,tarde,tenho cbr2006/2007 quanto ml vai de oleo em cada bengala da mu inha moto uns fala 466 da bengala do ano 2006/2007,outro falam 517 cada bengala ml,mas 517ml é do ano 2008, qual é o serto meu,amigo
Hi Simon Loko. In the service manual, it shows that in order to remove the lower bolt, you need to have a special tool called "fork damper holder" (so that the damper will be hold in place when you unscrew the lower bolt). In your video you don't use such a tool. I do not understand whether this tool is necessary. What do you think?
Hi, great video. Just about to change seals and oil on my 929 forks. What was the width of the slot in the metal plate you placed between the plastic sleeve and the lock nuts? Cheers. Paul
I suppose the reason you strip it completely is to get the oil level right when assembling? I'd prefer to keep the cartridge intact but I think for accuracy you need to strip the innards, this vid saved me £130 so good work bud.
A lot of times people will replace the bushing(s) inside because if a leak is left long enough they are allowed to run more dry than normal and will rub off their coating. It's kind of like replacing a water pump on some cars when you also do the timing belt. It's easier to get to while you are in there and the part itself is pretty cheap so why risk you having to take everything a part again later?
Hey my friend, I have a technical question, I have a 2004 1000RR and my left fork seal was leaking real bad and one day I noticed after riding that the bottom part or lower part if the left fork came out of the piece that is bolted to the wheel and same part that the caliper is bolted to? The fork itself looks to have threads or ridges on the bottom end. I wonder if the oil leaking fork oil caused it to slip out? I was able to hit the front brakes hard at 10mph and it popped back in. What's your knowledge of this? Thank you..
Very informative, but you're missing a very important factor. The amount of oil you pour in is not really a factor. It's the oil height that is crucial, It should be 93mm from the top with the spring out and the fork fully compressed, (2008-2010 model 1000rr) That is very important and crucial to your fork working properly.
I have Honda CBR 1000 F , but Im wondering how many ml of Oil ,should I put in the fireblade front fork. Is it the the same amount you put in your honda cbr 1000rr ?
Hi, anyone have dimension of the upper and lower feflon coated fork bushings? can anyone confirm that it's OD 47mm x ID 43mm x height 15mm & OD 43mm x ID 41mm x height 20mm?
+hundo1000 very much appreciated good sir : ) that was the reason i made it if i could only spare one person from all the research i did. surprisingly allot of people find my hands helpful
+jregz25 i went to my garage and found the tool i took the caliper and measured the thickness it reads out 8 mm. the ones i used was 1 with fine thread and one not the one with the fine thread went through the hole easily the other one was snug you can use something else maybe if you find a bolt that has no threads on the tip would be perfect as long the outer diameter of the bolt is no more than 8 mm it will go in. sry for my grammar.
you can just pop the top cap and take the lower bolt off and pulled the cartridge I have done it there is nothing restricting the cartridge once the lower bolt is and screwed it slides right out then you can disassemble the shock normally saves a lot of time
didn't skip the bleeding. no reason to skip the bleeding .. its fun! skipping it would mean you leaving old oil in the cartridge where its needed most and you can't pout the exact amount of new oil cause you don't know exactly how much is in the cartridge and if the cartridge is empty you cannot fit all the oil quantity in the tube. what i am showing on 14:14 could be skipped if for some reason you managed to fit all the oil quantity in the tube but you gonna have to do it after, the hard way (jumping up and down on your bike) not fun.. :)
I added 1 16 ounce bottle of 10 weight suspension oil to each shock and by working the innards of the shock and turning it upside down and wiping it with a rag and spraying it off with WD-40 it was very clean no issues did this to my bike about a year ago no leaks:-)
i am fine is strange i can take easy 110 volts on both hands standing on tile floor with normal shoes 220 is a bit hard but its not that i like it or somthing ..... fortunatly i can take it ... nobody tries 110 volt please....