Here you will find the latest tips and tricks using 3M's Commercial Graphics products,as well as video's showcasing our latest products. Also check out our favourite videos, you'll see our customers showing off their skills using our products.
Really works! 2 hours soaking and just peeled off. Some residual glue came off easily with isopropyl. Thanks for the tip…the stained old film was driving us mad!
Thanks for the positive feedback! 😊 We're glad you found the demonstration helpful. The cold stretch technique is a game-changer for vinyl vehicle wraps, making the application process smoother and more precise.
Was working with 10yr old frosted film, first try after soaking for 3 hours didn't work and it would instantly break when trying to peal instead of coming off. Then I soaked it for 24 hours and used a glass scrapper and it came off perfectly. Thank you!
You said post heat ASAP, saw another expert say wait from 30 min to 12 hours, if post heat too fast and heat a small trapped air bubble it could burst threw the vinyl ?
I tried this and it worked well to take off the frosting however the adhesive was left on the window. If this happens to you then put more dish soap/water onto the adhesive and put the plastic back up for a few hours, then use a window scraper and it comes right off. Thank you!
We just did this and the film came off great after 3 hours of soaking, but the adhesive is still on the window strong. Should we repeat this again or try something else?
With the post heat should I go from the center of the object to its edge or start at the edge of the object and move to the center? Or does it not matter, just post heat it.
3M = Billion $ Corporation & HQ Products <(mostly)…. I’m going to assume this video was NOT given the “green light “ by headquarters over here in the US…..
Has anyone ever used that product to edge seal a new vinyl top on a classic car? I have some areas of the install where I’m concerned that moisture could begin to breakdown the adhesive and cause the vinyl grain top to lift. Thanks for the video.
When getting the temperature up to temperature. Does getting it up to temperature even briefly enough or should we hold it there for a few seconds to ensure it’s reach temperature? Example. We hold both together as a unit and we go down the vinyl, once the vinyl hits let’s say 100, can we move on or should we pull the heat gun away to ensure it’s retained the temperature due to no additional heat being added to the surface?
Brilliant! Worked a treat, I left for 2 hours and super easy. Thank you for this great tip, last time I removed film I didn't look for expert advice first - it was a struggle and a half, never again.
I have a camaro with flat matte hood wrap but the hood got some stubborn water spots ,can I use the meguiars natural shine wipes on the hood to hide the spots, I understand that it will make it more shiny and I'm ok with that, my concern is would the meguiars wipes hurt the wrap ?
Stretching the distortion over the surface area of the mirror is much more important than leaving the tension at the edge. I'd post heat the first option over the second for results. Cold stretching is important with hoods and large surfaces but means nothing with compound curves. The limitations of the film are highlighted here. 2D and 3D collide in these instances. Stretch for consistency at the edges of the mirror. The less tension the better. Make sure the tension is at least a quarter inch past the cut point.
