@thomasgimenez5169 All but 2 of my brushless motors are being used by my other vehicles. The main reason I'm doing it is to see if the factory Traxxas ESC can handle the 390. I wound myself to 12 or 13 turns. It's been a while, so I don't remember the count. I am going to use one of the brushless motors in my Mini T eventually.
I have 4 of these (buy one get one free sale) The Toe & Camber on everyone was a disaster, a cross eyed Peter Puffer could have done a better job than whatever camp assembled them. Adjusted the Toe, and camber -1, installed an MJX mini gyro, have to admit, its just as much fun as my 1/6 , 1/8, 1/10 RCs. My first Car the JRX in the mid 80s. Enjoy
@thomasgimenez5169 Yes... I was able to make that skid plate, install it, and test it all on the same day vs. waiting a week for delivery. Plus, it's more durable than the plastic bumper that I do have on one of my other mini Ts.
Rears only... I ended up using the wheel hexes from the Wltoys and another wheel hex on the front side to act as a washer and cap with the factory lock nut. Fronts... No modifications are needed. The wheels only need to go on far eno so the lock nut has a couple of threads stick out.
Yeah after watching this video. I can say its the ground that they run on. On the place i run my cars on is asphalt and i have defined seen the wear that the arms get from a 2-3 in drop from my flagstonepatio onto the asphalt. If anything and jf i could recommend another rc car better suited to the racing would be a Arma Mojave Grom. Same price as the mini b/t, but built for bashing and would probably be better for your needs. Also the tires and such get worn out a lot quicker on road than carpet
See the test performed to show how easily they get damaged...and how to fix it so it's highly unlikely to happen again for free. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WzbBsIJXK-Q.htmlsi=3TTqmfIXo_O88SrR
I had forgotten that I had adjusted the preloading on the springs. I set the front for maximum stiffness and the rear for maximum softness. Sorry about the crap video. Between 2 cameras I had over 40 minutes of footage. About one half of it has my daughter in it. It took a long time to cut and paste small sections of video in a effort to remove most of her. All editing was all done on a cellphone. Ouch.
Ive had my mini b and mini t not break anything and theyre both brushless. The only thing that has happened is that my brother used his as a basher and the exact same thing happened with the arms. Since these little cars arent really meant for bashing those parts werent made to get used like that. If anything recing is what these ones are for. Otherwise if you want a basher, the Grom line from Arma is a good line for bashers, the granite and grom are better for bashing than these and I'm pretty sure you van see that by their designs.
Also since these are 2wd cars and tiny, they don't have much air control on jumps. If they had more wheel mass and better motors they might probably be able to control the car in the air more, but it depends really
And yeah these are designed for racing not bashing. Look up some videos or the mini t/b racing on track and they are pretty cool. Also runtime might be because of driving style. I have like 4 650 mha batteries and was driving oval racing at my house and they all had similar times. Around 110 laps around my makeshift track. So it's probably just throttle control and how much you use. As for tires there are aftermarket tires you can get that will perform better on dirt. The brushless minis come with step pin tires that grip a lot better on dirt and will backflip from 0 on asphalt with the car
@katiektentvods I got these to put around on the driveway, mostly with my daughter. I built 4 ramps made from a single 2x4 and 11 inch ramp. The ramp height is 4.75" Nothing, in my opinion, for a car that maybe hits 10mph. Waterproof electronics suggests more than carpet racing along with the box photo running over dirt. In the owners manual, I did not find anything that said ... Please limit to carpet racing or damage be a result. However... Without spending one penny. I modified the factory suspension to get much more suspension travel and ride height gains. I set the preloads on the rear to soft and the opposite on the front. The car now handles like it should. This modification should be a factory setting from the factory with the recommendations. But hey...I'm not an overpaid desk jockey engineer. I just use logic. I appreciate your comment.
@katiektentvods Excellent!!! I will be doing a comparison test tomorrow . Stock vs. modified stock. I'm going to throw a coat of paint down in the chassis and compare.
@@116andsmallerrc2Yeah that sounds good. Just getting my input from what I've experienced. Soon I'll be building a small track and hopefully have people join in. So because of that I'll end up doing this and more. But I'm guessing mainly installing front bumpers since those have saved my cars from hitting posts going at max speed. But yeah it's cool that you modified the one to fit your needs. I'll probably upload some videos on my other RU-vid channel called @katieetent about some RC stuff if it ever interests you. Soon I'll post my little oval race that I did. And you'll be able to see the ground, which is basically what made my brother have the same issue that you did too. And thanks for the reply :D
Really. Did you watch my entire video? By chance, did you look at the ramps I built? Did you happen to notice the terrain? Guessing by your sweet answer. I would guess you watch 30 seconds of CNN and call yourself well informed.
@116andsmallerrc2 I'm not normally the type to be like "you're driving it wrong, it's not meant for that!", but it kinda applies here unfortunately. The Mini B and Mini T are carpet buggies, meant for a track. They aren't really bashers you can send off a jump like that. I will say that the arm design isn't the greatest, but when you're jumping a buggy meant for a carpet track like that, things are gonna break. It might just not be the truck for you, which is totally fine
@gom4ngo745 I would argue a bad design to begin with. My daughter's buggy had a similar issue... I know her skill level is not the same as mine. After I made a slight modification, her vehicle has taken many direct hits to the curbs and is still fine. On my truggy... Raising up the ride height to about 1.5 inches from 1.0 inches for maximum suspension travel. I set the front preloads for maximum stiffness and doing the exact opposite on the rear... The car handles much better, and this was a zero cost modification.
@@116andsmallerrc2dude, that's a horrible setup! Generally, you want your rear suspension to be stiffer than the front, not the way you have it. Also, "maximum suspension travel" is gonna raise your center of gravity, making it more prone to flipping. I'll give you this, the arms on the Mini B and T are kind of poorly designed, but you do have some serious setup issues
Here's the thing. I have both of the 1/18ths. What I noticed is that my buggy, with a Dynamite brushless AIO and a 2s breaks 10x more than the truck. The truck is 3s Ebay setup and takes WAY HEAVIER beatings than the buggy. I believe the QC was handled differently when they first released.
@@116andsmallerrc2 First failure happened to the buggy within a week or so of purchase. Front A-arms easily replaced by RPM. The trucks first failure was the servo saver/horn. The buggy has had all these issues along with screws shearing from the transmission shock tower and then servo mount. Ironically the truck was significantly heavier. I believe that perhaps the extra weight encourages the plastics to bend rather than shear.
@MatMabee Good information. You are probably correct on the heavy vehicle, making the plastic bend easier. This weekend, I am going to perform a small test with the two vehicles you saw there. I will put a coat of paint on the bottom of them and run them over a few jumps.
Very nice. The last time I raced was in the 80s. My 1st car was a grasshopper, and then the 2nd was an RC 10. A night and day difference. Many years later, I have come back to it after spending lots of money on RC helicopters.
yes the fitment of the suspension balls is normal, even on the 1/10 scale. this is so they can rotate, there is no socket as much as there is a tubular hole fitted to a ball so it can pivot.
Mounted the rear Scx24 rear hinge on the outside of the body to get the wheels centered. It’s covered by a spare tire carrier. Velcro on front . I found just the Racent body for sale online.
Awesome bro, Do you think this car needs a suspension upgrade or the stock suspension is already good enough? I'm thinking to buy one of these and make a rally stage course.
Sort of... It is a 1/25 scale plastic model kit by AMT. Tower hobbies and Amazon had the same kit. It might be the same vendor for all I know. It is custom in a way. I cut the ..what I am going to call the upper chassis I half. This part has all 4 wheel fender flares together as one part. Kinda like a chassis. Then, I extended it visually to match the wheel base of my vehicle under full spring compression. Lowest ride height. To help hide the seam, I made a toolbox / storage box. This proved useful for the all in one esc. Some custom paint that you do not see yet is still in the works. Mostly because I'm very busy at work. Another video I hope to get made Sunday. Tomorrow. For further details.
This set up allows for use if the original jeep body as well and could give you a performance advantage with the battery up front. No wires had to be cut and extended.
Nice head to head comparison. There are many knock off companies that do deliver on body detailing and lighting. However, many of them are lacking in the electronics and mechanical areas. Axial has a tremendous advantage here in it's after market support. The upgrade for motors, gears, axles, shocks, etc are endless. And while some of the upgrades may work with the knock off, many of them just wont. I think they are both good choices depending on where you want to go with the hobby. Cheers, I subbed.
Thank you for all the kind words. I agree with the electronics and mechanical bits sometimes being less than satisfactory. I wish I had a deadbolt to compare it against for the shorter wheel base. Either way, I did get that one to intentionally modify. The very first thing will be the body. I got a 1934 Ford truck model kit in 1/25 scale. Too short. So, it will need to be cut stretched and modified to fit the chassis. Stay tuned.
"Racent." Is the value priced rc I could not think of at the time. As of right now based upon what I'm seeing...it is a better value for the money. No physical driving has been done yet.
I think, that the place where the suspension to the frame would break when the car have a load and go a bit rough roads, I'd add some reinforcement to it like a thick wire or something a bit sturdy enough and durable for it.
Let me add some clarification to the links on the differential. Most RC cars come set up at ride height with full extension. However, if you look at a monster truck, the front differential and rear differential links are parallel to the chassis, meaning there are flat and level for the most part. The drive shafts are at their smallest points. So, zero degrees to the horizon sitting still. Most of us RC enthusiasts will be setting up our links and / or drive shafts for full extension to make room for compression. The drive shaft is getting smaller.
Is this a joke? _Put thin metal sheet on edge of straight piece of timber, then tap gently with a hammer._ Brilliant! 😄 You delivered it very, _very_ dry. 👏 I was genuinely convinced for a while, that it was serious.
It would be really weird, if you somehow thought your neighbour was some sort of reference,@@116andsmallerrc2. Maybe allow for the average video viewer, having a competence level somewhat above "smashing metal with rock on concrete stairs". 🙄
