Hey Guys!! My one goal is to take you away from your busy stressful lives for just a few minutes. .Where i try to make you laugh and or Shock you .Or you can just sit back and take a journey with me throughout my day. Either way i hope you guys Enjoy!
Oh haven't had enough of me yet Well you can always,
Seems you’re mainly addressing Diesel Engines. What would be of interest in this conversation is the ‘claimed’ benefit of the EGR removal/blocking. Wouldn’t a custom designed Camshaft , maybe different Spark-Plug heat range,be much more beneficial? In my ,admittedly, limited experience tinkering with cars, seemingly simple, cheap and advertised “Miracles” they hardly ever deliver and many times have unintended consequences.
03 Jetta WAGON 1.9 TDI ALH REMOVE AND CLEAN THE INTAKE CLEAN AND LEAVE THE EGR IN PLACE , REMOVE ALL COOLANT FIXTURES AND REROUTE 1 HEATER CORE LINE WITH STRAGHT 5/8-3/4 LINE REMOVE THE EXHAUST AND INSTALL A BLOCKER PLATE DISCONECT THE VAC HOSE TO THE EGR, NO BLOCKER PLATE FOR THE EGR IS NEEDED I USE A ROSS-TECH TUNE ECU TO MAX NUMBER {OFF ROAD USE ONLY }FOR EGR ,NO CODES WILL SHOW YOU HAVE TO LEAVE THE EGR IN PLACE SO THE ANTI SHUTTER VALVE CLOSES ON SHUT DOWN AND IF YOU GET A RUN AWAY IT SHOULD CLOSE AND STOP IT....... THE ENGINE NOW HAS FULL FILTERED AIR NO MORE BLACK SNOT ,IF THESE ALH TDI WILL LAST FOR 1 MILLION MILES WITH A EGR WONDER HOW LONG THEY WOULD LAST IF THEY NEVER HAD ONE ON TO BEGIN WITH , I TOOK THE INTAKE OFF AND THE HOLE WAS ABOUT 3/8 OF AN INCH DIAMETER . WTF!!!!!!!! EGR GONE ............
I think most diesels would benefit from an egr delete or remap. But we need independent lab tests to say for sure. Each engine is different and the argument won’t be settled by anecdotal evidence.
I have a late 2013 GXL. Just a week short of the warranty expiring, on time and mileage, the centre diff light came on during cold starts. Once warm, stop the motor, restart and light went away. But whilst the centre diff light was on it was not possible to engage low range or cruise control. Took it to the dealer (Perth northern suburbs), left car in the carpark with engine still running and centre diff light on and told them the problem, hoping they would plug in diagnostic gear before shutting it down. I then went home, got a call several hours later saying they could find no issue ! They suggested I come and pick the car up. Fronted the dest and the "service advisor" said there was no issue !! I then asked how I was supposed to engage cruise control or low range if the centre diff light was on ? He suggested I just disconnect the centre diff light !!!!!! I KID YOU NOT !! I then drove immediately to another Toyota shop under the same dealership, explained the issue and left the car with them. Within 30 minutes the service manager called and told me they had identified the issue and it was a faulty actuator in the gear box, a $3000 part apparently which would take up to 6 weeks to arrive after permission was sought from Toyota head office to carry out the work. Fortunately the part arrived within a weeks and the warranty work was duly carried out. Since then I habitually weekly engage low range and move backwards and forwards in my driveway if not 4WDing for a while. Love this car, 255K km so far.
Very helpful vid thank you. I’m looking at purchasing year models between 2016 to 2019. So they will all have dpf. Any particular year I should avoid? Or anything to look for? Any other tips will be highly appreciated
When you use full throttle that’s when the most amount fuel is being injected into the cylinder so causing the most heat the egr is closed. So how does blanking them cause the piston to crack from heat.
Not sure where this bloke is getting his info from maybe it’s based on seeing hilux’s that have been flogged to death by poor maintenance. The 3.0 1KD is a pretty good engine which is why there are still plenty of them on the road the engine is known to do upwards 600k but it’s down to maintenance and how you drive it. The injectors were never an issue it was a design fault with weak pistons which would crack under high temps usually caused by towing or improper tuning this however seems to be less of an issue with later model n70s and it’s sort of luck if the draw not all suffer from this issue majority don’t. As for the 2tr-fe 2.7 petrol it was a far cry from the practically bulletproof 3rz in the previous generation and it was only offered in 2wd variants they aren’t bad motors great engine for city runabouts for tradies and fleet buyers. Now the 4.0 v6 petrol it was far from bulletproof as you describe it had issues with head gaskets blowing in the earlier models and it’s extremely sensitive to oil changes if you miss a service more than likely it’ll start causing you issues other than that they were pretty good aside from drinking more than an islander. 14L/100km is pitiful which is why they never sold well. Otherwise decent video mate
Old video i know but ill answer the temp issue. Trucks do not have throttle body what happens is your throttle body is closing promoting egr circulation if you block the egr and your throttle body is closing airflow decreases temps rise.... pretty simple.
Pressure top end is not pressure lower end? One man blaming catch can had old engine replaced pcv, but never cleaned solid crust carbon from behind valve. New larger lines may help.
Glad you mentioned the 3 musts, correct size catchcan, correctly fitted & correctly maintained. I have just watched the vid from Berrima Diesel (on a 200 ser) and they mentioned these same 3 musts. As far as I'm concerned listening to experts that only deal with the one thing (in this case diesel engines) is a must also not the people that are trying to make money from lies.
Glad you picked up on, it's their words not mine. I'm not a mechanic by any stretch but will listen to the experts that make sense before mates/keyboard warriors anyday. And I certainly agree with that's all they do all day, everyday, is work on diesels. Thumbs up, mate.
my egr is on or off, deleting the hose so it doesnt work and blocking plate still get a fault code which in Delphi system retards my injector timing, how would I fix this on a Terracan 2.9 CRD.....my intake was a little blocked so cleaned
Hi maté really enjoyed the video, I’m currently looking at a 2008 with 130km and also a 2013 with 190km which one would be the better car? I would like the lower km one but there seems to be a few issues with them, do you know anything about the 2013? Cheers
The engine is designed to completely close the egr when adding more gas, it opens it only when you are cruising. Why would it be a problem for the engine not to get smoke at low revs, it certainly cools then, it heats up only when you press the gas and then it certainly closes the egr! There's not much logic in that...
1kd i removed for some time but the turbo starts spinning fast and squealing sound start over 120km but again that speed egr should be closed . But i think the intake is high leaving the ecu to open vnt more wider .
What a load of bolloxx environment turning to crap turn off your telly stop believing the bullet. All the components added to modern cars are so they fail and cost you money.
Hey mate this is an un-related question to this video, but i wanted to seek your advice on weather or not i should go through with financing a 2009 Hilux, Auto diesel, 335,029ks, $20k ?
@@Measuretwicelad plenty of issues with the Y62 also The paint flakes off , the viscous fan issues , the transmissions are prone to failure and don’t get me started on HMB and IRS suspension 😂
I think the main issue with catch cans is overlooked. On the car is a PCV valve to govern presure. On some catch cans is another. The catch can with a PCV valve requires the PCV valve on the vehicle to be removed on install. You can not run two PCV valves.
Simple solution to diesel issues is dont own one. Supposed bad diesel has cost me 6 injectors in the last 15 months on my BT50. Try and argue the toss with Bosch that if it was shit fuel why didnt all four shit the tin at the same time. Fitted a .5 micron polishing filter and will see how it goes. The lesson for me was I should have drained my tank when the first 4 were done. I am in the market for a tow rig but I change cars like my jocks and I am tired of wasting money but at around $3k for a full decarbon of a 200 series its just another cost impost. I have a mate who is a Toyota fan boy who will hear nothing against God even when I remind him about 8 injectors and a dusted turbo.... Probably a petrol V8 Cruiser this time around (new petrol 80 in 1997, TD 100, 2 V8 200 series TD and 1 Petrol V8) but it can be a crap shoot either way
We picked up our 300LC in Feb 2024. There's been a knocking, rattling noise coming from under the left hand side since day one. Sounds like you've run over a piece of something that's hit up under the car. It's worse on undulating bitumen (haven't taken it off road yet.. only a bit of unsealed road to get back home, about 11ks). Dealer is trying to work it out but they don't seem to have a clue. Anyone's input on this problem would be great!
Update on the knocking noise in our 300 series. Turns out that when the dealer fitted the bull bar, one of the workshop 'technicians' dropped a large bolt which went down somewhere between the body and the chassis. ..... and the guy didn't think it was important to mention what had happened!! This bolt was rattling around causing the noise. We were ready to sell the car because we were so frustrated that nobody at the dealership could find the problem, and it was so loud. Anyway, problem sorted at last.
Hey mate, I’m wanting to get one for my territory, it’s a 2.7 v6 diesel. Would you recommend something other than flashlube? Cheers Good to find that issue before it caused any major issues on your cruiser
Oil pickup is simple maintenance and as long as you change seats every 40k its fine, cracked pistons are caused by towing, chips and tunes and poor injectors, changing the scv from the short body to long body will solve that issue
Mine a 1997 model Pajero/Shogun Mitsubishi EGR may engine knock at 3k rpm that is why I delete it but not totally but this model have a solenoid valve I that vacuums the EGR actuator I just add switch to the solenoid valve if I want the EGR activated for a cooler combustion.
Anything interfering with the highly sophisticated Air fuel ratio to lessen its best or cleanest combustion does not make emissions better and destroys the desired life expectancy of the engine. It is government sabotage. To make their agenda look like it's working. When it is doing the exact opposite.
Look at all the dirt in your intake manifold and you know EGR is totally stupid. Had it cleaned, EGR blanked, ECU remaped on a 2016 3.2l Ford. Works like a charm, no raise in engine temperature, no fault code, awesome torque and power.
Thanks Have unfilter housing on my motorbike and didn't know how to replace the foam inserts, yellow and green. Although my actual filter us different size, shape, procedure still the same Good video, thanks
I have a Pajero Dakar 2013 3.2, DIESEL, it has already been done two decarbonizations and it presented Error P2413, EGR dirty, the mechanic advised me to replace it because it has been used for ten years, but it is very expensive, I decided to isolate the EGR, it presented error P0299 (Turbine or air sensor) but everything is perfect, this error had never appeared before isolating, The car didn't lose power.
I dont think there is any problems with new lc 300 3.5 tt engine. I myself have driven my 2022 Gr Sport for 111k kms so far with 0 issues. Apparently most people faced issues with turbos because they clearly havent read the manual of the car which says,” if you drove on a speed of 100km/h or above you must idle the car for 2mins before shutting down the engine.” Secondly, most engine issues are due to the fact that people think that this generation of Land Cruisers is the same as old where you pour any type of oil and you are good to go and they basically change oil without even looking at recommended oil by OEM. Just use the recommended OEM oil and idle the car when needed u wont face any issues with the LC300! Literally 0 issues.
Your oil quote is not valid, we are all getting our new LC300's serviced under Toyota - because we have to, in order to keep warranty. So we aren't changing the oil, they are.
@@VFNVFNVFN im not sure what the warranty rules in your country’s dealership. Here in the UAE, you can buy the car without service contract except for the first oil change which is mandatory. Otherwise, you can service your car anywhere you want.
