@@jennyanimal9046 seems like it would work. Just glue it with construction adhesive, caulk all the seams, a good coat of paint and it should be good. Good Luck!
I just did the same thing today, looks like the same table as I have one side came off easy but the other side is all messed up a lot of the wood came up so I have a lot of bondo on now I’m going to try to lay wood veneer on next week , keep my fingers crossed
I actually found your channel by looking up reviews on the jasper round circle jig & then seen your beautiful clocks😊 Question though are you still using the jasper jig to make your round circles, or did you go back to using what you was? I'm wondering if it's worth buying the jig to make my circles & absolutely love the colored stained clock, do you happen to remember what stains you used? Also new subscriber here😁
@@gigiscustomwoodsigns5471 Hi! So when if I do need a large circle, the jasper jig is my best option. In some cases, I might still make a simple handmade jig. I will say that a hand made jig is just as good if you will only be making a small number of items or if your circles will always be the same size. The colors were Varathane barn red, dark walnut, vintage aqua, and weathered grey. Thanks for watching!
COUPLE OF SHORTCUT for using a spacer block. 1. USE 2 short ones. Add a CLEAT to hold it down (I haven't done this - various options - simplest is a couple sharp screws installed thru the board. TAP IT DOWN on one end - do the same on the other end. You might just shoot a couple finish nails thru into the workpiece. 2. MAKE A ZERO CLEARANCE BASE This shows the weakness of this design - rendering it USELESS. I'm going to see if I can think up something here, or something better. I'm back - so considreing that the height of that unit is taking an inch off your depth of cut (making ripping 2x4's a problem ?) and this setup time which is rediculous - I'm going with a couple of cheap, thin DIY zero-clearance guides using a 1/4" base - so both problems eliminated PLUS the tearout issue is not a problem.. WHAT ABOUT CLAMPING? I'm going to use a couple of strips of anti-slip tape on the bottom and maybe add a couple of 5# weights on top if ever I need it. NO CLAMPS. It's also possible to use a thin plastic strip as an edge that can be replaced. I haven't found the material yet - it would probably be self-adhesive on a roll. LOL - I realized I have a warehouse full of the stuff - it's for vacuum forming. I'm not sure where to get a small amount but it will wind into something easy to ship. Gluing it will take a plastic adhesive.
Quick call Bob Vila from this Old House. He'll call Norm and the boys. And what the heck we'll get home Depot to sponsor you to replace the whole deck on doing a new show
Hi! Well the jig has a "universal" hole system which should attach to most bit not all routers. The jig comes with a few kinds of bolts also with the idea that most routers will have corresponding holes to the jig. So if you have a router that fits the jig, you just line up the holes and use the provided bolts to attach.
Thanks. Is your router model the R1631/R1631G? Only reason that I ask is because this is the model that I have but … my holes don’t align on the jig🥴. I’ve had it for about a year now and I’m just getting around to using it
Awesome video! Lol, I kinda found this out on accident. I turned a purple heart pen and it was all brown when i finished, so i threw it in the car (on the dash), came back a few hours later and was like "whoa, where'd this purple pen come from?!" Thanks again, liked and sub'd 👍🏿
That's what I concluded too. The length makes that nearly impossible to handle so that was the last time I didn't just pay the lumber yard to do it for me.
Gotcha. Well I hope it works out for you. If you have a long enough flat surface, you could consider a flattening bit in a router sled. (Shimming as needed). Then you should have a flat face to send through the planer. Not sure which is easier.
Thank you very much for sharing this video as I recently purchased this planer and it clogged and you showed how easy it was to clear. Five minutes and fully operational again ...... and something to watch for. This was perfect!!!!!
This was a great video! I have a bunch of purpleheart and I have been waiting to use it. The brown dilemma has been keeping me from using it. This has inspired me to experiment! Maybe an oven would give more consistency and avoid blotchiness. I will find out!
For cutting boards, I use mineral oil to start. Then bees wax mixed with oil to maintain. For non food related, perhaps a tongue oil with added hardener.
This is a very simple way to do this but honestly i wouldnt trust this to hold 1 tote let alone 2 totes considering most of ny black totes have at least 25 to 60 pounds in each one and ur using a lag screw to go all the way thru a 2x6 cut in half so a 2x3 which everyone knows all wood 2x6s and 2x4s and 2x3s are not those exact measurments often there 1 1/2"-1 3/4" thick not 2 full inches and there 2 1/2- 2 3/4 inches for width of a 2x3 and 2x4 width is half inch shy of 4 inches being 3.l 1/2 inch and so on my point is now ur putting a lag bolt in multiple spots all the way threw the board which is only 1 1/2-3/4 inches thick making it very possible to split right in the middle and it only takes one side for a board to split and there goes not one crate but in ur case 2 crates being lets say conservative of 10 to 20 pounds so are u really gonna trust this being mounted over ur head mounted in a halfassed sort of way at tue very least id throw some heavy duty mounting adheasive in btween the board u drilled thru and the ceiling as well as filling that entire hole to give those hairline splits and cracks from the hole splintering to the next hole a fighting chance and fill it and the lag screw with some hd mounting glue or epoxy something otherwise id use another board just like the one u have on the bottom but on the top but say 3.5 to 4 inches wide screwed and glued and screw that board from the top and counter sink it or use a pan head wood mounting screw with good weight ratings now u drill ur holes on either side and ur holes are going thru the grain not thru and parallel with the grain causing splitting and severely damaging its strength 10 to 20 pound boxand more falling 1.5 to 4 ft onto ur head could kill u or make u have to wear a helmet and have help eating speaking wiping ur ass etc or if it falls on a child thats half ur hieght id expect critical harm even my way of mounting or how id do it id not trust id mount 2 ractchet straps for every 2 storage crate mounting racks having there hooks lagged right into the ceiling joists and ratcheted tight to keep crates from falling if my mounts fail in anyway
Do what you gotta do. Mine have been holding for years now. If I walked through the worked cass scenio every time I wanted to do something, I would never get anything done.
Hey thanks for this. You've given me something to think about. I might try some 1 x 4 x 16' Primed MDF Boards or Melamine boards and see now that works (13.64 at Menards). I think you're right about a router bit with a top bearing might be the way to go. That way the template can sit on top of the work piece and the reveal to be trimmed is easy to see and make as small as possible. Have to go look at how you surfaced the two faces of those boards now. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching! I'm sure there's better ways out there, this is something that I tried. With surfacing long boards, I can to the conclusion that it's well worth the price to get the lumber place to surface the long boards for you. It took me hours to do 3 or 4 boards. On my later projects, I had the lumber yard use their double sided planer and it took 5 mins. Maybe $10. They also jointed one edge for me. I guess I've concluded that I should only try to mill 4ft boards or shorter diy. Anything longer, I plan to have the lumber yard do it. Saves wear and tear on my machines too. 👍
Excellent point about the cost of the tools. And actually this project wouldn't need all of those. The price of custom closets and kitchen cabinets is insane!
