Bad job overall. You need 350 celsius to solder or you will damage the contacts trying to heat up with only 300 celsius and you sealed the contacts with some red silicone crap which will make future repairs impossible. Good job moron !
Sveiks Kristap, man tāds jautājums. Ir tāda iespēja ka man dēļ šīs kļūdas nestrādā spidometrs? 17106 - Transmission Output Speed Sensor (G195) P0722 - 35-00 - No Signal
Sveiks, cik man ir nācies saskarties ar spidometra problēmām, parasti bija aukstais lodējums uz paša spidometra plates. Piem. rezistoram viens savienojums atlecis nost no plates. Spidometru ir jāizjauc un rūpīgi jāpārskata. Ja atrodi, tad ar lodāmuru pielodē kā nākas un viss aiziet.
Sveiks, paldies par atbildi, vari ludzu iedot kontaktus facebokā vai watapā, es varetu rit viņu izskruvet un apskatities, ja kkautko nesapratišu varesi man iedot kordinates lai saprotu kur un kas man jameklē :)@@kristapspriede7758
@@kristapspriede7758 i change out mine from multitronic fwd to manual 6 speed quattro. now gearbox acting up again(grinding in 2 and 3). was thinking abaut buying a donor car with tiptronic quatrro and changing out again (i really like automatic, reason why i bought this car) but i m not sure abaut electric and what else do i need to do. mehanic is easy. tuwm for your answer. greetings from croatia
Broken wires and connection points are made from aluminium, it could be different in newer cars, you can use ordinary iron if it heats up enough and you have the right flux.
Hi Kristaps, I also have this transmission control board problem. A few wires came off and when I tried to re-solder them in place, my tin/lead solder didn't stick to the terminals!! However, after watching you re-solder them I noticed you kind of struggled a bit, but somehow you managed to get the job done with that secret flux of yours. I'm using Alum solder from Poland, supposedly for this type of job. I have a few questions for you if you don't mind answering: 1. I got a hold of 99.3% tin, 0.7% copper solder now but I still have problems on my "test" pieces of aluminum. What type of solder did you use? 2. I have tried from 240°C up to 350°C iron temperature. What temperature did you use in your iron ? 3. I also filed my test aluminum pieces. Did you use that small file you were holding in your hand for that reason, too ? I have cut small pieces of aluminum off a heat sink trying to mimic the size of the terminals where the wires are connected to. This is in order to practice. I've been able to have the solder stick to aluminum foil, but I have failed miserably to have solder stick to these small aluminum pieces. I look forward to hearing from you soon, and thanks in advance for any input you may provide. rafael.larios@gmail.com
Hi, the problem is that aluminium very fast oxidize, thats why its not soldering. Main issue is right flux, I used one made in russia, there is written on it flux for aluminium (Флюс для пайки Алюминия), For you I suggest to try different flux the soldering iron is not so important. On the market there is a lot of fluxes, but there are only few which works.
@@kristapspriede7758 thank you so much! I’ve been replacing these on Audi A4’s with the cat transmissions but I’ve been using used ones so I have 2 spare ones. I really want to try to repair it myself and this video really helped me! Thanks! I was thinking to use a dremel but wanted to be sure first. Did you heat it up with a heat gun first? Or did you just cut the edges before slowly peeling it off?
sorry you did not get what you wanted. for me this approach helped a lot. remote control button defect basically drained the battery for the car and I could not start the engine etc. after doing the actions I demonstrate in video, saved me huge trouble
Thanks for the brag video... but you didn't actually show us ANYTHING. For future reference, show us the disassembly at least. Show us the engineering mod, or the process of repair. Most of us just wanted to see the steps in and out. Congrats on your success, but it was more of a story, than a tutorial. Cheers.
Does anyone know, how to get the servo motor out and put it back again? There are PH screws that hold the servo from behind, but there is so little space so that I cannot tighten the screws. Does anyone know a solution?
Hi Everyone, Greetings! We are the ONLY manufacturer in China who can manufacture brand new aftermarket 01J CVT Transmission Control Unit for AUDI A4/A6/A8 to solve AUDI's commonly known problems of CVT transmission TCU/TCM failures. Our Advantage: 1. Sole Supplier with Competitively Low Wholesale Price 2. R&D Capabilities with Technology Patent in China 3. Brand New Control Module Can Be Programed and Pre-Configured to Fit most AUDI A4/A6/A8 Vehicles to Solve the Common AUDI‘s TCU/TCM Failure 4. On-Site Technician Training and One-Year Warranty Again, we are the only manufacturer in China who have the R&D capability to provide high quality with low price AUDI TCU/TCM even better than an OEM one. We have been successfully distributing these products in China for years and we are currently looking for a partner in your country to grow business together. Should you be interested or have any question, please email us via [amtcu.new@@t]. Looking forward to hearing from you. Thanks and Regards.
Nu ko, lai saka jāmeklē Tev nekontakts... Ir bijis, ka kontakts zūd augšpusē, kur tās gumijas pie griestiem locījuma vietā zaļais iemeties. Vēl cik atceros bija kaut kad izbeidzies pats slēdzis vākā...
hi Kristaps, thank you for the great video. In my case at the begining it was the fault code 17090, I opened the tcm and there was one conector broken, I repaired but after the instalation of the tcm came the codes p0750 and p0753. To mention that its not the first time that I'm repairing this type of connection, 01j tcm is my first. I opened one more time, and inspected again, all conections are ok, and that connection that i made was one contact to the n88 valve. I messured the connection it was ok. Do you have some idea, what was not made. p.s. I fill new oil, multi cvtm from motul.
Hi, Gor. I think it is possible that during the soldering process you overheated the connection, so it came off on the side of the chip board. I suggest recheck that. Maybe now there is bad connection.
Paldies Kristap, domāju šī vaina vai nē, bet nu esmu pārliecināts "same shit" Dažs reiz pats pārlec uz S, kaut arī selektors stāv D. Pēc kā ieliekot N sāk mirgot visi burti, aizmugurējā ieslēdzas ar triecienu, būs vien jāver vaļā!
Sveiks! Ja ir iespēja pieslēdz pie kompīša nolasi kļūdas, bet izklausās tieši tāpat kā mana problēma. Esi uzmanīgs sačakarēt tur kaut ko ir pavisam viegli. Tie alumīnija vadiņi baigi slikti lodējas. Ja, kas dod ziņu ir viens džeks, kas tieši uz šiem specializējas pameklēšu varbūt varu kontaktus atrast, ā vēl to hermētiķi nevajag iekšā smērēt.
Kristaps Priede Kļūdas nolasiju, tā teikt klasika "P0706 17090" , kāpēc hermetiķi nevajag? Kad viedo smerejāt ciet ar nodomaju "šito otreiz ārā vairs nedabūt, na nu kaut kur nepielodejās" . Ar šāda veida lodešanu esmu nodarbojies (ABS blokiem) tīri sekmīgi, bet ja ir kas profesionāli pielodē tad kontakti noderēs )))
1. Kā jau tu teici, ja kaut ko vajadzēs pārlodēt nevarēsi vairāk vaļā dabūt. 2. Hermētiķis ir uz accetona bāzes nav veselīgi skābe uz plates, oksidējās saēd alumīniju utt. skābe paliek skābe. Kad tā izdarīju pēc tam apsmadzeņoju, ka nav īsti labi tā darīt.
Hello. Do I need to drain the transmission for oil before i change the TCM? Or Can i lift the car in the back so the front tilt forward? Best Regards Lauritz
This is great. Shows what can be done with a minimum of tools and money. People don't always realize what's behind the $2k repair job at the dealership. Thank you. Great video.
Juan, did you check the main tcm connector? There is no mechanical damage on it? When you did the soldering, the alluminium wires should not touch each other. It's really tough work these wires can be easily damaged. I suggest re-check soldered wires. Sometimes they look, ok but there is no contact.
Hi, I had the same code as you and repair it by soldering the cables, but now the car does not recognize the tcm. You have some idea. I need help please
Hey Kristaps, Excellent Video. I have a question for you. I have a 2004 Audi A4 Cabriolet 3.0L CVT trany. I search and found that the TCM is in the Gearbox. I don't many small to mid range jobs and I am a DIY type of guy. Question to you is, how hard is it to get to the gearbox and remove the TCM. Thank you any feedback.
do you need to do an adaptation after repair? using vcds or similar. mine drives perfectly for 10 mins or so then starts to shudder on idle as if it does not know what gear it's supposed to be in. then lunges forward on take off. prnds flash and error for reverse lights comes up. any ideas?
For me everything worked fine without adaptation. For u I recommend to read fault codes with vcds or similar tool. If error code is similar as I mentioned on video description, then it's probably the same problem TCM is faulty.
So if you mean only TCM repair costs there was approximately 10€ for soldering flux, 5€ for epoxy glue. The soldering tin 5€, silicon is no need to use, with epoxy glue it's already hermetically sealed. But I want to draw attention to the fact that if there is different damage than this, repairing costs could be more expensive, there are some guys who do repair service starting from 120€ to 300€ per unit. Also i want to mention that when you do this repair you need to be very careful, because it is very easy to damage other elements.
