My leaky Sears 2ton jack is a 328 12041. It looks like the 12160. I can not find a seal kit for 12141. Do you think the 12160 kit would work? I hold you harmless for any opinions.
The worst fear I have about doing this? Is that you probably shouldn't be underneath the tractor when you do the initial separation of the 2 halfs? He might want to leave a couple bolts in on the top sections just in case it wanted to drop down on top of you? So you will be able to brace the sections
I have a 2011 sel awd fusion I just put 2 racks on it the first was used the second new but still went back to the same problem hard to steer please do you have any advise I put soo much money out already
Used this video to help rebuild the exact same jack. The jack originally was my grandfather's, then my dad's and now mine. I rebuilt to give to my son. 4 generations of my family will have used the jack and it holds so many memories. I used it to change oil in my first car at 16. When i touch the handle memories instantly flood back of family members long gone. Thanks for excellent video.
I have a 2010 3.0 SEL model. The dash is saying service powering steering and also service advancetrac. Steering is super hard to turn. Would I have to replace what you’re replacing??
I have a 2010 3.0 SEL model. The dash is saying service powering steering and also service advancetrac. Steering is super hard to turn. Would I have to replace what you’re replacing??
I know you posted this a year ago - but what if the check brake light is not on and it’s just an intermittent “service amtrak” with abs light that comes on randomly?
Check your wheel speed sensors. The ABS warning lights can activate the other warning lights. If you don't notice any changes in your braking system, always check the wheel speed sensors first.
Hello guys I have same problem but mine the steering wheel stops working until the lights are gone then the steering wheel gets smooth again is it going to be fixed if replace the abs control system?
Did you figure it out? i have just the abs light and traction light with “service advancetrak” only sometimes. I just spent 2k on full front brakes and calipers and hoses on a 2012 and i really hope i don’t have to put more in.
@junglehannah2 it was the wheel speed sensors in my case. I had the advance track warning going off too. Since the warning lights on my car wouldn't always come on, I figured it was the sensors going bad. If the ABS light is triggered, it will also usually trigger the TCS and track warnings as well. Always check the sensors and brake fluid first before pumping big dollars into it. If you don't notice any changes in your braking system while driving, then it's usually the sensors and or low fluids. I also have a 2012. What do you have?
@@drakecarter1780 I have a 2012 as well. I’ve noticed a slight slip on my brakes in the first couple minutes of driving, but it just got cold here (less than 30°F). Wondering if the cause of this would be cold weather on new calips/brakes? Or is that just crazy lol? Also, i feel the tiny slip sometimes when the lights are off as well.
@junglehannah2 I've been having that issue too. Just got cold here as well and I've noticed that on mine too. Just the cold I'd imagine. Get your car checked for codes to find out since wheel speed sensor is acting up. All 4 wheels have them so it's best to start there. There is also a small chance that it could be the steering angle sensor but that's less common. Luckily, wheel sensors and the steering sensors are pretty cheap and dirt cheap if you can do the repair yourself. However, if you get a code back about the ABS module going bad, that can be very expensive
On my 2010 Fusion SE 2.5, I used a torx bit T15 to remove the module. Use the thin screwdriver type T15, otherwise the socket for the bit is too thick and will make the bottom screw really hard to remove. You dont need to drain the coolant or remove the hoses, just remove the expansion tank bolts and you can move it around enough to fit your hand under to disconnect the module. I bought a used ABS module from the junkyard and used the PMI on my scan tool and it was really easy. This was for the code B1342-20
What problems where you having that it was the module? The problem I have is when I press the break pedal it sinks and vibrates any idea if it’s the pump or just module? ( already bought the part )
@Angel-Breakfxst My brakes felt off for a few months. I could feel a light brake drag at the front end of my car. It wasn't vibrating too much, but I could feel and hear a low grinding noise. I also had to press the brake pedal further down. I did a brake job and brake fluid change, and this still happened for a few months. Luckily, my dashboard lit up just like in this video. I got a code, B1342. The Ford manual said for this code, replace the ABS module. I did and my car works fine now, no brake drag or nothing.
my 2012 sel abs light and service advancetrak turned on on my way to work. car drove fine parked it and at the end of the day when i was going back home light had gone away on its own
Yes. Clear the codes first, diagnose any abs related codes first. If no other codes besides B1342, then replace the module as seen in this video. I'd check the wiring and connector first before buying a new/used abs module.
Man them clamps have caused me some real pains, stiches and the other day I had one stuck open and when I laid it in my hand it popped,and rung in my hand and that shirt hurt u no!
Thanks I have one of these and this info will be useful. The jack bleeds down unless there is a load on it. I have to pump it up in a hurry to keep it going up and once there is a load on it, no problems staying up. Could it just be something is just dirty?
I watched another rebuild video by "Dr. Joe". He had a ring in his as well, and he just knocked it out the hammer/screwdriver. I just did the same - not at all difficult. I have shelved the rebuild for now, but will get back to it later.
Information is really good. Could you please let us know what type of OBD/USB cable you bought to connect laptop to OBD port? Also could you please provide the software for windows OS?
The metal ring mentioned in my previous comment is welded in place, so to get the seal in, one must use a special hydraulic seal installation tool. This tool (around $20 or so) will deform the seal into a more compact, heart shape, so that it can be inserted down into the groove. Once it's there, you press it into the groove, all the way around, restoring the original circular shape. I've shelved this project for now, but at a later date I may get the seal installation tool to complete the job. I will have to re-order the seal kit - in frustration, I returned this ridiculously overpriced kit (Lazzar's HCRCnow), $70. Perhaps the price will come down. I'd like to restore my floor jack, but it can wait.
Perhaps the metal lip (ring) around the top of the cap can be removed? Mike's showed the top of it right after he installed the seal, and there is definitely no metal ring present. Perhaps he removed it, although I don't know why he did not mention this. Mike - did you knock the metal ring out when you knocked out the seal?
I have not been able to install the new seal in the power unit cap. You used a 1-1/4" socket to tap it into place. On my unit, there is a metal lip the reduces the diameter of the hole from 1-11/16" to 1-1/2". This lip made it difficult to remove the old seal, and now, I find it impossible to get the new seal into place. It is pretty rigid, so there is no way to deform it to get it underneath that lip. I can tell that the new seal, diameter 1-11/16" would fit perfectly -if I could get it in. I'm out of ideas on this. Anyone have any suggestions?
Nice. I’ve been offered one of these for few that’s in excellent condition except it’s broke. The fella bought it new and said it never worked correctly. He was gonna take it in for scrap but I said I’d look into a repair kit and maybe take the Jack from him.
@foxbodyt.v4364 First you would need a scan tool with the feature PMI (Programmable Module Installation). If you don't have a scan tool, you can use a laptop with a program called FORScan with an OBD2 cable. Plug in your scan tool or laptop to your car with the old module and begin the PMI, this basically copies your vin and other info. Remove the old ABS control module and replace with the new one. Finish the on screen prompts to finish the PMI, this puts your VIN and other info on your new ABS module. That's it. You will get a trouble code for wrong VIN at first because you plugged in a different module. Just clear it and you're all set.
There was portion of reprogramming skipped. Can you insert missing portion at end of clip? Also, can you identify re-programming tool and software used? Thank you.
Just feel like I should say that you did get my Sears 80s jack working again. But putting it back together. I feel like you skip video on how to put it back together. Still a good video on how to rebuild
Very thorough and detailed instructions including where you found the kit. I have this exact same Jack and although there's nothing wrong with it at this point, I'm going to order the kit just to have on hand because who knows how long it's going to be available.
