Join me on my journey into Scale Racing. I started a little over a year ago with racing and have pushed all the way up to Open/Intermediate.. It's been one wild ride!!
Nitro is the Glory but I had to sell my Ebuggy to pay the bills!
Great footage man. What would you say that track surface is? Any sand mixed in? I like how, even on a race day, it's still loose enough to kick up roost and get rough, yet it's not dusty dry. Seems like with the straight-up clay tracks, like my local one here in North Alabama -- if there's a loose layer on top, it's either wet (clumpy, sticks to the arms, but no real roost) or dry (dusty clouds of roost. Clogged air filter type of shit where you feel like you need a shower afterwards lol). I get why they blow the loose stuff off the top, which helps with consistency and lap times, but I'm an MX dork that loves seeing some roost haha
@@cbh148 I'm definitely no expert, but I'm going to assume that this is very similar to a straight clay mix. Because when we get a lot of rain, it seems to hold moisture for a good amount of time. I may be wrong here, maybe someone that represents the track can chime in? The track does groove up and get dusty, but it won't happen until the wintertime when the rain slows down.
@@acecapone8086 When she's set up right, she's crazy fast. But get one little thing wrong on the setup and the thing is uncontrollable. Once I get it, where I want it, I'll do a video and give up the setup sheet for it.
@@gainsrc nice bro for sure. I race a team associated pro 2 and I just recently got a pro 4. I got third place with my pro 2 while racing against three 4wd teknos. Needless to say I was pretty cool with the way that came out. Those teknos are a weapon! I'm thinking about grabbing the SL version.
@@acecapone8086 If you're running on 10th scale size tracks, it is perfect. I would not recommend running it on an 8th scale size track. Its way too fragile for the bigger jumps.
I just came a crossed your channel and checking out a few vids 💯 I apologize if you are already using some of these strategies but, some items to consider: - Screws/bolts are inexpensive and can cause expensive issues. I always suggest replacing all engine mount bolts (top and bottom) each and every time you take the engine out Reason being from experience, threads stretch, loc tight fails due to heat and debris or thread are not clean enough, etc (mount inner threads may need to be chased and cleaned at times too). As I’m sure you know, it’s possible to strip head hex’s too which leads to other unwanted issues These are just some additional options to try if the engine and/or mount continues to move. Use some 220 grit paper on the chassis plate, mounts and engine flanges. That just helps with some flange to mount grip. Clean everything each time you reassemble and if blue loctite isn’t enough, move up to orange. Everything above are just some thoughts to consider. - It’s awesome you are sharing your adventure with everyone. Our hobby has some great people in it. 🩷 Thanks for the vid
@@a2rc All of your suggestions are absolutely fantastic And greatly appreciated! I ran both of my nitro cars last Sunday and coincidentally after changing up my Race prep and Pre-race inspection managed to get into both A mains and make it through the whole day without a single flame out or catastrophic failure. This is a huge win in my book! Hopefully I can find some time later this week to put a video together.
@@gainsrc That's Great to hear! There is no bad day when running Nitro but, it's always a bit better when you don't break anything lol. Looking forward to your vid from the weekend.
@@gainsrc I’m hoping everything runs smooth I did some practice last Sunday and the tunes were a little off but could be an air leak somewhere and my bearings definitely need some love😂😂 I was feeling pretty fast though!
Hearing you say about stripping the gears curiosity was killing the cat for me and thinking it’s gotta be the mesh. I hate having to remove the whole motor mount from the chassis, especially when my gear mesh is set right I rather go the route of having to remove the cooling head if needed just so I can remove the engine from the mount and drop it back in without having to reset the gear mesh.
Love the reds 521 i have 3 of them run great crazy power. Ive still struggle to get a nice single stage idle with the carb but they never flame out on 100° outdoor 30 min mains
A local that I run with got one of these 521s for practice to keep the hours off his fancier Reds engine (721 I think?). I can't hang with him even with his "practice" engine, and I think he just ended up racing and doing everything with it because it's been so solid.
I had 2 of the old Mach .26 V2's and I ran close to 8 gallons through each and about 5 or 6 through a piston and sleeve. They ate worn pretty well lol.
How does the new Mach 2 hold up. I just pulled my Sportwerks Mayhems out after 20 years. They have the Mach .26 V2 from 2004. Pretty good engines. But I hear the new Mach engines are built by someone else now. I was thinking about buying a new Mach engine for my Mayhem. But I just haven't pulled the trigger from uncertainty lol.
@gainsrc cool deal. Thank you. I don't know which engine you are running. I am running the .26 in my buggy. The engine from 20 years ago is pretty powerful. Like you said tho, even that one isn't as powerful as better engines. I've seen .21's that'd brat the breaks off this .26. But I'm not looking to spend $400 to a $1000 for an engine either. I'm not competing anymore so I really don't need a full race spec Adam Drake broken in of a house payment either roflmfao
@gainsrc There are definitely worse ways lol. I am doing. Ls3 swap in a 03'Crown Vic Police. It's a project with my grandkids. We'll, I really wouldn't say uts a worse way lol. More expensive maybe. By multipliers lol. Cool so that was a .21 and she ran that good? Cool deal. I may go that way. .26 are nitro gusslers lol
been looking to get back into rc racing im wanting to get a truggy do you think the dynamite .21 mach 2 engine would be good enough for a truggy ? and those servos that you have in the video, do you think they would be fine in a truggy?
While they will absolutely work as a budget option, I'm going to recommend going with a stronger motor and a servo with a higher torque rating for the Truggy. Reds 521s or OS Max and for steering servo your going to want something that has a good 1 year warranty and 400oz in of torque. Truggys eat steering servos especially if your racing.
@@SantosDolores-b8s Agradezco que se tome el tiempo de hacer un comentario. Acabo de saber que no entiendo muy bien el español y que me resulta muy difícil traducirlo.
In 2 stroke tuning the gap between the piston top and bottom side of head is called the "squish" (because we squish something like solder or clay in there to measure). Raising the compression by having a small squish gap can bring a motor alive but also needs higher octane fuel to avoid detonation, runs hotter etc. As an old 2 stroke tuner, I have a feeling a nitro is in my future ;) Lovin the vids brother!
@@gainsrc After our conversation at Lake Park I've just installed a sensored system in my ebuggy. XErun G3. Just now installed it. It's running in reverse and I only have the old style LED program card tho. Damn.
I appreciate the feedback. It's pretty difficult to please everybody all the time with non copyrighted background music. In fact, it's Incredibly hard finding any decent, Non-copyrighted music..
I have a REDS 721 Gen4, and I runs much better on 30% with a 0.1mm head shim added. Hot weather I use TS4 plug and 8.0 restrictor. Also the new carb from the 721 has awesome feel and mileage while being easy to tune. CARB SET CG3 GEN1 3.5CC S SERIES BUGGY/GT; SKU ER210146
@@rccoachwenger The team manager for reds down here in the southeast has said lots of good things about that new 3 needle carb.. Is this "the" Coach Wenger?
You've probably already figured this out by now but I just found your channel and I'm burning through it. I had something very similar happen to my SH engine last month (and they likely make the Dynamite engine as well). I was doing the same method as you regarding using elastic hair bands as a fail safe throttle return by replacing the grub screw of the throttle linkage with a longer screw to hook the band onto. What I figured out was that ^that^ caused it to be pulling the throttle slide closed, but doing so in a way that imparted an angle on the slide against the inner bore of the carb where it resides. This happens because the servo pulls the ball end one way, where the band on the screw pulls the opposite direction at the opposite end of the slide linkage. When everything was new, it was no issue as the slide was held so concentric to the carb that it couldn't snag or jam. But after 6 gallons, it finally started to bite in a bit. I fixed it by simply switching to hooking the hairbands around the ball, where the servo linkage snaps onto. Doesn't cause it to come unsnapped, and removes the moment arm bending loading from the slide. Back to smooth as butter w/o buying or replacing anything.
Somehow I didn't get a notification for this comment. So my apologies on the delayed response. You are 100% correct and that was what caused the issue. The Dynamite engine is an incredible value and I will have some more videos coming on it soon.
@@gainsrc Awesome bro, subscribed! I’m in north Alabama but gotta get down to Florida to hit some RC and MX tracks sometime. You guys got it awesome down there.
@@cbh148 Much appreciated💯 Hopefully I'll have some more 8th scale content here pretty Soon... Going racing at Lake Park RC this weekend if the weather holds.
Last Xmas, I bought my buddy a used Tekno 2.0 on ebay that came w/ one of these Dynamite Mach 2's that had not been run yet. It ended up being a solid engine and accelerated down the front straight just as fast as my $170 SH PT21AO, both of us running the same Dynamite 053 pipe. He eventually had it lock up due to something in the top end, almost like detonation but the piston didn't have pitting, yet the sleeve/piston had 1 big scratch where something jammed in there and snagged a transfer port a bit, although the filter was a-ok so it didn't suck dirt. Think he was at about 2 or 3 gallons on it by that point. I'd buy one now if they were in stock. Presumably, the turbo head button from several other .21 engines will fit since I haven't had a standard plug in a number of years.
@@cbh148 It's a solid SH based engine. Carb definitely is the weak-point. I plan on using it as a tester to attempt modding butfor the first time but that will be down the line..
