Great video quality and edition! This was a better way to see the items from the bundle set better than just pictures on a website. Just a minor thing to point out. Most people -including myself-, won't go out of our way and check an extra video buried in only-god-know-how-many-videos you have in your social media platforms just to see a deeper insight on a tool you could have said by adding an extra 10-20 seconds to the video... want your channel to grow? Offer concise and detail info in your videos. The growth in other platforms will grow alongside your main medium. Ps: I know if I would have expended the couple of moments writing this I would have found that video you were addressing when reviewing the drill but again... not many will go out of our way from one platform to another just for that. Hope your channel grows and be a big shot in the modeling community!
Thanks a lot for the great feedback! I will def keep that in mind. Feedback like this is very helpful and I wish more people would so kind to give positive feedback.
I use Mr Metal Primer myself and that one takes about 1 to 2 hours to dry. Some people tell you to let it dry overnight but who's got time for that? Not me! I expect Tamiya to have to same drying time.
I have a newbie question. Do you just wing it when it comes to applying them? I got etchings for my RE/100 Jagd Doga, but have no clue as to were to put them? It came with no booklet.
Not a newbie question! It depends a little on the set. Some sets come with a manual some don't. Depending on the brand, you can try to type it in google and look for a some webpages. They sometimes have instruction online. At Zeonmarket.com they mostly have the manual pictures at the product page. But some small PE parts like screws I just wing. Feel free to enjoy some freestyling to what you like the best!
Should've watched the conclusion. Whether it's worth buying is up to you. It's a great set for people who don't own a basic set yet or if you're building outside of your house ;).
The tools are basic tools that are a bit self-explanatory. I'm not going to show how to use a nipper, scissors, a cutting knife and sanding pads. It's a set for people who don't have any tools and want a nice basic set. Thus I'm referring to the conclusion as I tell who I would recommend this for.
The think the newer plastic hobby tools from Dspiae are their budget friendly tools. I do wonder when Dspiae will release a budget friendly airbrush and an expensive airbrush. Also Dspiae release a deburrer push knife. One side is like a chisel and the other side is a knife.
I can't entirely agree with you regarding the panel liner being replaced by your preference. I will assume that over 90% of owners of this box set will not take it outside their homes. This box is an excellent way to keep all our tools together instead of randomly left all over or a veteran user having to purchase a cosmetic makeup box or a tool/tackle box to tidy and put away our gear not too long ago. Great unboxing video!
Sorry for the late answer. I wouldn't recommend the non fogging from wiping it with a damp cloth. From my experience you'll leave residue from the cloth.
Plastic cement works by melting plastic and then drying to have the two touching plastic pieces physically fused - it won't do a thing to metal but *might* melt the underlying plastic to sink the metal in enough for a very weak grip
Sorry for the late response. The low fogging and non fogging have the same strength. The only difference is that the low fogging is a Gel type. This means you have more time to position the parts before it's stuck together. So, you should be fine. Hope this helps.
I also use gap filling black CA glue which is better for filling gaps and bubbles or cracks in resin. One can also mix gel CA with talcum powder to make a paste easier for re-scribing. Thin CA for simple contact points 2pE quick cure for most other needs 2pE slow cure for waterproof strong holds
For my 2nd MG I want to do a Char Zaku II with resin kit that makes it look like it does in Origin. Cause my first MG was Rx 78-2 Origin. I've worked with resin in 3d printing and war gamming minis so figure it not much different.
dont know how i feel about it.. you definitely lose creativity points using it. i guess if time is an issue time is an issue, i ENJOY the time i spend on kits and cant see using such things (photoetched parts are different).
These sheet can help you masking parts. You can always leave out pieces that you want to paint differently but I think it will assist you. As mentioned in the video you can also use the leftover for reverse masking which gives you a whole set of new masking options. But obviously you don't need it if you don't want it. I think for a lot of people this is a great help!
Inhaling resin dust can cause lung cancer. Use a mask and wet sand paper to keep the dust down. I actually sand resin submerged in a bucket of water! You should also wash your resin parts to remove the release agent that can cause paint to fail to stick to the resin.
Absolutely right, while wet sanding or sanding in a well ventilated area will do the job most of the time. You can actually do it underwater with the right sandpaper. It depends on your situation. But indeed, always wear a mask!
It would not stick and be easy to take off. Depending on the type of paint you use, you could create a weather effect. But then again, don't touch it after!
That's a good question. If it's a photo etch set specifically for a kit then it will almost always come with a manual or you can find it online. But at some point you start to collect left overs. These days I use photo etch freelance throughout the whole design of the kit. You can put them anywhere you think it fits, be creative!
Confusing headline. It's more "How to apply PE-Parts to a model", than HOW TO PHOTO ETCH, which makes the viewers believe how to etch metal and make self designed PE-Parts at home. Don't say, it's not possible - that's exactly what I am doing. And yes, at home.
If youre refering to plastic contact cement than i'd say no. The cement used for plastic kits melts the two plastics together to create a bond. Since PE is made of metal it won't stick or loosely stick. In theory a cheap hobby store instant adhesive would work.
I think it might do a bit better after an over night dry. I'm super interested in seeing if it makes a difference it feels as if this is the only honest review of the paint.
It might make a slight difference, but that's not how it is advertise unfortunately. They put themself as a fast painting brand so you don't have to wait. If that wasn't the case we could hop to any brand.
@@VEMODS To be honest haven't the 2.0 version but thanks for the call I want to buy this in the future but glad I didn't. But did you scratch it too hard cuz its looks like u scrubs of like a scrub sponge 😜
@@VEMODS Btw I watched other videos about this paints did you also cure for 12/24 hours. I know that u spray 2 layers but Im still open to try this paint for myself. I know that paint can be chipped out or scratch if you do it enough force I already accept that, but did you also test it with top coat. And if its to too thick the paints did u also thin with Mr Hobbby Leveling. My previous kit barbatos lupus rex HG was painted with Tamiya gloss white I did a scratch test had it makes a huge difference with flat paints and gloss/semi paint. I understand the concept of gpaint 2.0 without primer will it be ultimate solutions. Anyway its a person preference others like it other don't and thats fine. My case is Im done with priming and at color paints that why I'm curious to find out for myself if it works for me😉
You didn't mention the most important part. Washing the resin. You have to remove the mold release or the paint will peel off when you remove the masking.
