This is a practice watch that I wear every day, the parts are not all original it's a frankenwatch from donor movements, and some parts are worn out of spec. This is far better than what it was when I started. It's just my hobby.
What would be the reason my 11 36 pours all its oil out after being shut down. Will run fine as long as it's got gas but when it dies or turns off the oil pours out.
Maybe the bottom half of the engine has a crack in it, when it's running the cover that goes over the valves behind the carburetor has a small diaphragm that makes the crankcase a negative pressure as it removes vapors and any blow by from the piston when the engine is stopped there's no vacuum in the crank case allowing the oil to leak out through a crack or a hole in the bottom of the sump, this is a possibility or it could be a stripped broken oil drain plug on the side.
I think the cheaper models had a regular dipstick but if you got the one with all the bells and whistles self-propel etc it had more options I do know that a lot of these have been Frankenstein over the years because they're like Legos you can interchange parts very easily.
To tell you the truth that oil minder funnel is a pain in the butt I would rather just have a dipstick to easily check the oil once you put the cap on that oil minder you can't get it off unless you almost break it every time but they are cool and fit the machines classy look
That lever mechanism that goes from the carburetor linkage to the starter release lever is exceedingly hard to find most of them were discarded when the crank start broke and you couldn't get the spring and they converted them to pull start.
@@sabbath7081 Yeah. Ours broke and my dad converted it to pull with rhe one that would have been on it. We had several terraced levels to our front yard and its light weight and front drive was perfect. Ours didn't have the guard in the rear for toe protection. He would have gotten it in '66 or '67.
@@bigblocklawyer My other one is like the one you used to have no factory tow guard and the handle is a little more rounded but basically the same mower it has the crank start but the engine is incredibly worn out but it's still has tons of power.
That unit is neat. Back when we built our appliance's instead of having Asia build them all and we serviced them. When thing's had style and we took pride in what we made.
It doesn't race like that anymore either I put the vein governor linkage in a different hole and it's much more stable now, I have to figure out what's wrong in the gearbox because when it's driving forward it skips every revolution of the gearbox hopefully I can figure it out, I'm currently using an old 69 wheel horse with a plow on it driveway but it snows. Thanks for watching
What's crazy is it runs that well and the engine is completely whooped all out of tolerances The rod bearing the piston and the upper crankshaft bearing and the exhaust valve clearance are way over the limit. When I used to use this regularly 20 years ago it was whooped then and it started on the first pull, or crank before the crank starter spring broke. second or third revolution of the engine it would fire up with all it's power. I used to spin it over a few times with the ignition off, just to get the oil up because I knew it would instantly fire up with no oil up in the engine.
Just saw a cold spot very similar to this in the wall of someone’s basement. I was servicing their furnace and noticed it. Tempted to try and get it but lady is kind of a grump lol
@@sabbath7081 im sure i did too im just on so many platforms and seen so much stuff that its hard to remember anything in particular without looking it up and finding it again
This is the first one I've ever seen with the rear shield on it. I believe it's a 1969 because I have a 68 and it has a crank start. This one also has a quick fold handle you pull up a lever and the handle folds over My other one has a bolted handle .
@@sabbath7081 hi I guess Mines is a 68 because it's the same color with a crank start. Turns over. I paid 11.00 dollars for it. Like to learn more about them.
@@darnelljohnson3771 I'm not 100% sure but I think Tecumseh carried the crank start as an option longer than Briggs and Stratton did in the '60s so maybe you can get them either way depending on how they were sold? I'm not sure I'm not old enough to remember that stuff I just know of different models and some have cranks and some have recoils. I do know that the recoil start ones have a compression release on the cam and the crank starts do not so if you put a recoil start on a crank start model you'll hit the compression stroke and pick the mower right up off the ground unless you pull slow till the top dead center and then pull.
@@darnelljohnson3771 I will say that this is an impossible engine to get a rebuild on if your block is damaged there are none out there if you have an original block with the bottom outlet exhaust do not blow it up be very careful it's unobtainable
I have two of them this one and one that says carrier both of them the motors stopped spinning so I went to a regular wall plug intermatic with set pins I tried to take one of them apart and it seems like a pain in the butt to do anything with.
@@sabbath7081 the new Intermatic timers are annoying to take apart but the motor is the same in the new ones as these old ones. I bet the gear in the motors in the old ones broke that's usually what happens.
No this one is the four horse I do have that six horse one in my other video of it blowing on a sidewalk and yes that six horse block is hard to find I know exactly what you're talking about.
Sears has done that for some time now, J.C. Penny used to put there name on brands like RCA Toro and others too, you would look at something and say that's a .......wait J.C. Penny? Same with Montgomery Ward etc.
What is the power consumption and the cooling capacity of this unit? You should get a fin comb to straighten the condenser coils, and maybe some thick metal mesh go protect them. What a beautiful design!
I just used a bullet piercing valveon the suction line, not recommended, I purged the line before I screwed it to the Schrader valve and added untill the super heat was close, but the proper way is through the process tube evacuate then weigh the new charge in, crimp and re braze the tube shut.
