Didn’t insulate as this was an insurance job and has to go back like for like unless the customer wants to pay for it and in this case they didn’t want to.
Good clear video, well explained. I am about to do another one and wanted a refresher. However I remember using an extended pole on the roller so I could stand up while putting on the adhesive
Really helpful, cheers. Any advice on how to stick and seal the rubber to a vertical brick surface that is next to the roof? My flat roof butts against a taller brick wall. Thanks again.
What brand do you use because I’m confused as lots of videos of different brands show varying techniques, please can you give me an idea of what to charge per metre square for Labour only and Labour and materials so I have an idea?
Hi I noticed you used a primer on the bricks presumably this is for a key and to even up suction and do you have to use a primer on all block and brick substrates? Can you also spray that base coat rather than hand apply and just flatten off?
@@rdword2345 The edge adhesive is stronger as the manufacturer advises it, as for the type of adhesive I can’t remember but I’m sure that I showed it in the video
I’m concerned that the walls have been primed more than once by a previous plasterer who let the customer down and it’s making the top coat hang? It’s like the moisture is sitting behind the silicon and making it slide/fold on itself??
@@worklife4221 so you don't have to keep getting up and walk around the glue around the edges.. I'm not picking... I just asked if there was a reason you started at the rolled up rubber end rather than work back towards it...
@@mervmervalot2296 I do it that way so that I can roll the adhesive onto a bigger area as rather than kneeling on the rubber , but I do it the other way as well
Very helpful Video, a tip though for potential users, PVA the top surface of your Boards to seal (These Boards are very porous) and paint the edges, and left to dry, anything will do as long as It's oil based.
I was told by a rep for the supplier of the rubber roof system that PVA can have a reaction to the adhesive and therefore is not recommended although sounds a good idea, not sure how true this is though.
Absolutely rubbish about the notch trowel have been doing eifs here in the states 25 years and not once has a company Total us to do that ,over foam cement board or hard surface background,
the speedskim finish on the basecoat, is it enough key for the topcoat? good job btw. I done some k rending years ago in London, been out of the loop for a while but got my first silicon job coming up
Yes the speedskim does the job just get it as flat and smooth as possible cause if you don’t it will show when finish is put on, hope all goes well for you
It’s the ox speed skim and we find them so much better than a darby they have sort of taken over the Darby in the plastering trade now with the different lengths and interchangeable blades
That job is a credit to you and George. Such a large area and evenness of your application is outstanding. Can you tell me what size aggregate was in the top coat?
The top coat comes pre mixed in tubs to whatever colour that you want, as for the aggregate it is only 1-2mm thick all of the work is done in the base coat getting it flat and smooth
@@ipfishing1466Many thanks. I was interested to see George’s featheredge. It has a flexible blade. I thought they were rigid. Any idea as to what it’s called?
am from the UK bud a tip get a good black back then put all mixed mortar in it like a cake piping gun cut corner off or when you have 5 mins use plastic bottle cut to shape and super glue it then wrap elec tape around it that's what I used for some time gets filled quickly when working out side full brick job I put 3 to 4 drops of fairy in a cup of water and add it to the mix at beginning comes out so nice
Hi mate, I'm having an extension built with new 350 cavity walls, the existing is 330 but I want a flush finish, I'm having the new wall d&d obviously but how do I make up the 20mm discrepancy on the existing wall, would you fix another piece of plasterboard to the wall first, ( glued or screwed?) then just d&d the whole lot new and old and line completely flush, be interested to hear your thoughts mate, cheers 👍🏻
I would probably d&d some 9.5mm plasterboard to existing to bring it flush with the new wall and then d&d over the lot, the only reason for using 9.5mm is purely to give it a bit more adhesive when sticking rather than the dots of adhesive being to thin. Hope this helps
Can you go over Silicon render? Just had a guy do the render on the front of my house. Claimed it's good stuff, it will look better than next door, sounded like he knew what he was doing. I later realised he used the float to apply the render and didn't finish it off properly. Some bits look like a child was spreading Nutella on a slice of bread. Does it all need to come off again, or can it somehow be sanded down and gone over again? Or will it need to all come off and start again?
