Vehicle diagnostic garage based in Thrapston, Northamptonshire, UK. Diagnosing and fixing cars is our passion, hopefully sharing some videos will help you sort out your car problems.
Hi, I get this error P0299 after around 20-30 mins of motorway driving. Never within city or sometimes it comes on one way journey but while coming back when I was doing 2500 RPM then it didn't come for 80-90 miles whole journey. I am not sure what's the issue. Recently got my exhaust pressure sensor replaced. also cleaned my MAF, my maf readings are bit odd but I still feel if maf was bad it wouldn't wait for that long to give error, any ideas? Also one more point I don't see any limp modes i could still drive well with a good turbo boost over 2.5k rpm and it goes all the way to the 4k also. Once I restart the engine the error goes away.
@@IshanSingh-wh7gk Hi and thanks for watching my video. As P0299 is an under boost fault it’s worth getting a smoke test done to check for any leaks on the boost/intake system. A telltale sign of slight leaking is the pipe or joint may be slightly oily. Also on this engine take the pipe off as shown in the video and make sure the flap isn’t loose, so when it changes position it’s sealing correctly. Hope this helps. Regards Charlie
@@Autofanas777 Hi 👋 thanks for watching my video. I would start with checking the fuse and make sure the drivers door registers when it’s open and closed too and the seat back is properly latched. If you have access to a diagnostic tester there may be a fault code stored which will help narrow down the fault. Could be a failed extender, hope this helps Charlie
Hi there. I know this video was a few years back but hoping you can remember. I'm just about to tackle this exact fault in the next few days. Will the dead drivers door switches spring into life as soon as the faulty rear door module is unplugged? Or not until the new one is plugged in? Wondering if the Lin bus is wanting all modules connected to start working. Thanks in advance.
Hi Brian Yes I’m pretty sure when you disconnect the faulty rear door module, the Lin bus stops being pulled down and the front door should work. Hope this helps Charlie
I have loss of power. DPF an SCBS light on dashboard. After being cleared by a DPF clean specialist.. Still sluggish but will eventually get up to speed.. I've had a recent oil change. Any ideas? An exhaust gas temp sensor has been mentioned as a cause. DPF is clean with low soot content.
Hi It’s worth starting with a code scan so you have some fault codes. Sometimes if the DPF is still blocked it can give a temperature sensor fault as not enough gas is passing meaning the temperature is too low. For the time it takes it’s worth checking the turbo valve in the video . Many thanks Charlie
Hello is it possible to fix just like what’s in your video, or the whole turbo needs to be removed? I have ordered the replace flap and bolt off eBay. Is there still possibility for the bolt to fall off at all?
hello, I want some advice, I have a mazda cx5 2013 and I have problems with the turbine, it runs in lag between "1300-2000"rpm and sometimes it doesn't run at all and I get the error "P2262" (turbo charger pressure not detected Mechanical). I specify that I changed the wastegate on it, I think it is from Actuator? . thank you.
Hi buddy, i have a issue with my window switch, memory seat buttons, and also the driver side seat buttons. The driver side seat buttons only moves a notch were it should be a continuous movement when any button is pressed and held to the desired position. The diver side window switch only work for the drivers mirror. However when i hit the driver window switch or open the door all the functions work. Do you think its a module issue? At night the window switch lights dont light up unless i smack the side it open the door.. lights on all works well, light off and above issue present.
Hi With your issue changing when the door is open, first place I would look is the door aperture wiring loom. If you have a broken wire in that loom it Will give you those symptoms. Hope this helps
@brownsautomotive7102 thanks.. when i posted that message, the next day i took the door card off, thinking it will be the door lock latch actuator based on another video i saw. But i also remember you saying if the door card is off just check the plugs and the door module for any dirt etc.. and boom... the plug was loose (left side). All sorted now.
Another excellent video, i had exactly the same issue, i did replace the front module with a used one but still no luck checked the rear door module, and it wasn't corroded but after spraying switch cleaner on the terminals all started working again, the only thing that still does not work is the electric folding mirrors, swapped the front door module back to the original and the front window was starting and stopping i could feel the relays in the module clicking on and off, so i fitted back the used replacement module i got and all was fine again, module has exactly the same numbers on it, just mirrors dont fold - have you any suggestions, or do you think the used module isn't coded for folding mirrors?
Hi By testing the system and knowing how the LIN bus system works, corrupted signal was still present with the front switch removed meaning it has to be further back on the RH Lin bus circuit. Hope this helps
Hi, I have the same problem. I retrieved the bigger side of the rivet, I guess the smaller parts will be at the intercooler inlet (hopefully to big though to make their way through there). Do you think it is safe to drive the cat like this until the problem is fixed? I'm not sure what this flap does to be hones...
Hi The other part will be at the intercooler, not too bad a job to get out. The flap changes the airflow between the small and the larger turbo, it will log a fault code and may run in a safe (limp) mode
Hi Yes most of them do have a twin turbocharger set up, I’m not aware of the same issue with these but it’s possible. Worth starting with basics first like a high pressure smoke test and maybe worth cleaning the boost sensor. Hope this helps you. Many thanks
@@brownsgarageltd cheers for the reply. The 1.5 is a single turbo. Ive had another look at IDS and the actual MAP is lower than the MAP demand, which I'm assuming is the reason for the P0299 code. Question now is what's causing lower pressure
Good video. Question again ..I've had huge jobs done turbo kit head gasket rockers cams etc . After 2 other sensors replaced it pulls well . Only thing that annoys me is I get some mooing at mostly lower revs (lower speed driving ) motorway not noticed . Any ideas ? Cars been a pain
Thanks 🙏 That’s a really difficult problem to help with, but I will try ! Firstly can you hear it when stationary, if no this rules out only engine related rotational noises. A boost leak can make an unusual noise but normally worse under load. And brackets or pipes that are loose, poorly routed or catching the body or subframe can cause random low speed noises. I’ve had plastic air ducting causing an annoying noise in the past. Lastly does the noise remain or change if you press the clutch or put the car in neutral so rolling. If it remains then it could be a wheel bearing or bad tyre 🛞 Hope this helps
@@brownsgarageltd hi thanks for you're reply all good info. I've not depressed the clutched when this happens but I'll try this 4 sure . It's not consistent with the revs etc so if I went faster the noise don't necessarily get louder or worst . One thing that was done some time ago was a mechanic pit a cable tie around intake port they'd said back then it vibrated. The cable tie is not there atm and wondering if its the cause . I guess I could try ruling it out by replicating with a new cable tie I have plenty there . I felt the air duct recently I guess it's not as rigid as I'd prefer but not overly loose either. I guess I could try the cable tie just maybe it's resonating slightly. I'll get back to you on this . Thank you . I knew it not be the actual filter itself I put a new filter in yesterday old 1 was a bit grubby .
@@brownsgarageltd problem is noose only wjrn moving I'd have to get Mrs to maybe video it if microphone picks it up . I have a mechanics stethoscope but that's pointless with this as it don't make a noise when stationary . Mine has 2 solenoids 1 is 34+ vat other is 80ish+vat
Hello, do you have any idea why my seat belt presenter for my A207 (Cabriolet) has this issue? 1) Passenger enter car, close the door, it extended. But went back in after less then 10 seconds, 2) Pressing the extend button on the middle of the aircon vent only extends the driver side, but passenger extender does not extend. 3) it should be extended for 1 minute before retracting in if seatbeat is not being worn. but my went back in not within the time.
Firstly I would check the seat belt warning is working ok, sometimes the buckle or wiring under the seat can cause a problem, I have changed passenger seat occupancy pads too but this fault normally puts the airbag light on. Hope this helps
@@brownsgarageltd hey, thank you so much for your reply. i do not know where to start diagnosis. because its strange. I suspect the occupancy pads too, but theres is no airbag light. i do not think buckle could cause that to happen though.
@@brownsgarageltd i have used my XENTRY and scan. under the Rear Control Module SG-FOND-> left extender it shows "POWER CONSUMPTION OF COMPONENT A10" is 0.000A whereas my right extender shows 92mA
I have a similar issue with the second turbo. I have power till 3000rpm. After 3000rpm, there is a lack of power? No lights on the dash or anything. Driving me crazy! Any ideas?
Try having a look at the changeover valve, make sure the flap is in place and seating properly. If that looks ok, try and find someone to check for any stored fault codes and start with a smoke test to check for any intake leaks. Hope this helps
Great video. Had the same issue with my 2.2 Mazda 3. Ordered the parts and changed the small turbo valve without having to remove the whole assembly. Bit fiddly but well worth it. Think your video saved me over 2K !!
@@andrewharris3380 Thanks Andrew. I got complete turbo replaced under goodwill from Mazda. Only had 85k Miles with fsh. Can you post the part number just in case it happens again?
Mine had a little squeal sound which I thought was a belt. On shutting down it did a little high pitched sigh. There was acceleration hesitancy, idle revs up and down and check engine light reading lean. Wish I'd watched this before taking it in, mechanic swapped out the PCV and the car is SO much better now!!
Thanks for this, being trying to find out what's up with mine for a bit, idle fault occurred the same time as the flexi on the exhaust failed so i thought that was the reason for lean fuel codes, problem persisted after new exhaust, you were spot on though, diaphragm almost completely torn all the way round. You're a gent.
Hi, i have mazda 6 2.2D, 2014, 83000km. Recently we experienced sudden loss of power accompanied with whistling sound (link to video belo) when accelerating (but it only maxed at 80kph or so). Brought to Mazda, they reported P0299 and P0236 code, telling us to change whole turbocharger (they quoted AUD 7000 + 10hrs manpower!!). Do you think it's having similar problem as yours in this video? We haven't tried opening the turbo up on our own. Really appreciate it!! Video of whistling sound: ru-vid.comxVnDGiyWS28?feature=share
Hi Yes that is the same problem and the video I posted, the changeover valve that fails is part of the complete turbocharger. However you may be able to get a turbo company to repair yours, worth a couple of calls. Hope this helps Charlie
Hi Yes you can do that with a good diagnostic tool or you can do it manually. With each window hold the button down until the window reaches the lower stop, hold for a second then do the same going up. If successful the one touch opening will work. Hope this helps Charlie
After my extender got stuck out I pushed it back in but its not worked since have done some Google research and reading comments on this vid I pulled fuse number 50 in the boot left it out for 2 mins and 2 hours later it seems to be working again my car is a 2013 e class coupe old shape just a tip that may help someone who is stuck
Hi Have a look at the teeth on the extending arm to make sure none are missing. Try moving it around in case it’s jammed and push it back in with light to medium pressure so you don’t break anything. Failing that either take it back to whoever fitted it or if you fitted yourself you may need to take it to bits to see what’s happened. Hope this helps Charlie
@@brownsgarageltd thanx for the reply I gently pushed it back in flush and from now on will click my seat belt in before turning the ignition the extender good but so temperamental
@@brownsgarageltd my e class coupe is a 2013 do you know which fuse is for the seat belt extender just want to try pulling it for 30 secs tried number 15 but the pass side one still works si I'm thinking it's a different fuse ?
Very useful thank you. My memory seat buttons are not working on the passenger door, door lock/unlock buttons are ok. Does that switch pack connect to the door control unit as well? It’s diagnosed through the seat control unit and there are errors relating to the individual buttons. Driver side is fine.
Hi Mark The easiest way to be 100% is to take the door card off and follow the wires from the seat switch pack and see if they run to the door module. Sometimes the switch packs are interchangeable so you could try the drivers side in the passenger. Hope this helps
My Audi A3 not idling properly took it to 6 mechanics nothing worked also when my car is on it just turns off and battery light pops up even tho I changed my battery a month ago. So when I take my foot of the throttle the engine shuts off car runs perfectly fine so only those two problems
Hi It’s worth checking the pcv and diverter valve, depending what engine you have. The valves can stick too, or you could have an air or vacuum leak. Take it to a specialist would be my advise.
In your case you would need to start from the beginning with diagnosis, check for any fault codes, smoke test for any air leaks, make sure the delete you fitted is still secure.
@@giovannimora9134 if that is accompanied by a loss of coolant then you have a issue with coolant leaking internally. Normally the smoke would be there when u Rev too.! Your idle issue could be sticking valves, to check this you would need to do a cylinder leakage test. Or remove the inlet manifold and have a look for carbon build up
@@nicksjamesnj hi mate Sorry for the delay, I’ve finally got the current warranty part number from a friend at Mazda for you. Part number SHY1 1370 ZB The last letter B will change as time goes on and they supersede the part. Comes complete with a brand new turbo and all the gaskets. Hope this helps Charlie
Hello, I have a Cx5 ,175hp 2014. I read all the comment from this video and i have the same problem like some people from here. I have low power at low rpm( under2500) but i have no error on diagnosis test. In my town we have bad mechanics, 1 of them told me to buy another EGR. What could be the problem? What it need to be checked first?
Hi May be worth taking a few bits off to check the changeover valve isn’t loose or fallen off ! This would normally give a fault code but still worth checking. Also check all the vacuum pipes and any other pipes for leaks, smoke test if you can. Hope this helps Charlie
Same problem as you. Lack of power under 2500, suddenly kicks in when closing to 3000, second turbo taking over. But no fault codes. Did you ever find out what it was?
Yes no problem, the earliest I have is Monday the 7th June onwards. I would need the registration number to order the parts. It’s probably better to message the details. Many thanks Charlie
hi. i had the same problem. i replaced that valve ( i fixed. i placed a new bolt with the nut and solder that nut so it will not come off. i left small gap between that lid and nut so that lid is not solid. it can wiggle so when it shut it can adjust) it took me 6 h to replace that valve. very sh...t access and many things to disassemble. my question is that i still got low air pressure on map sensor under 3000rpm. i didn’t found that pin. is it possible that this pin blocking intercooler?? i don’t think so because when it goes over 3000rpm pressure is ok but you know better so im asking? another thing what i noticed that my i-eloop stop working very often and i read that is happening when dpf is burning out but this happens to often. so maybe dpf is blocked and that make it all problems. i don’t get any errors codes. also someone advised me to swap boost solenoid to check if that is not a problem. pls advise me. regards
Hi Rafal Try checking the differential pressure reading, or exhaust pressure before the DPF. This should give you an idea if it’s blocked. Secondly if the valve repair is not operating as the original, so shutting off one port properly you will get a low map sensor reading. From memory these have 2 EGR valves, smoke test these if possible and make sure they are not stuck slightly open, or dirty as this will also cause low air pressure. You are right the pin will not block the intercooler. Hope this helps Charlie
@@brownsgarageltd thanks for your message. i think that this valve is ok. i don’t know how to check this. i have used original valve so i could replace it and see if this change anything but i don’t really want to spend so many hours to take it out and put it back again . and if that not gone change anything i will have to put that modified one back again. i will not take a risk to damage another turbo. this valve is very risky. about egr. a whole air intake was cleaned in mazda. everything. shame that i can’t show the pictures. what about dpf. do you know what reading i should have or what readings mean that is blocked . and the last thing because you didn’t mention nothing about boost solenoid. regards
That's why I traded my cx5. My diverted valve broke twice.. and it took 2 weeks of argument until Mazda accepted the valve was not fit for purpose. But they don't have an upgrade yet.
Holy cow! look at that hey... So naturally the reason I'm here is that I've had my CX5 GT Diesel 2.2 engine replaced after blowing all four injectors, intake manifold clogging with engine soot and blocked oil system. It's a bit of a story, but in the end the engine got replaced with the new KF version. They bolted on all of the old external parts, including the turbo, despite my anger that it wasn't also replaced. The problem is that I get very low boost on acceleration. Torque app is telling me about 3.5PSI max.... occasionally I'll get a second surge on acceleration I didn't ask for. And Fuel economy I can't get under 7.0 liters per hundred. Prior to the problems, I would regularly sit around 5.8 Litres per hundred. My thoughts are that since the engine practically siezed the first time. The Turbo is also shot as well... but I can't get the dealer to spend the time to inspect their work claiming it's a new engine and 'let it run in'... Would you know what the normal Boost pressure range of these engines are? Is 3.5PSI sounding low? There is definitely huge lag in acceleration and it'll tend to change gears long before it spools the turbo...
Hi Wow that’s a lot of work, if your engine had an oil supply problem and almost seized that will not have done the turbo any good. Always worth having the turbo tested when an engine is changed. The bypass valve is fairly easy to check yourself. Hope you get it sorted 👍
