yes, and I have a diablo steel demon blade the blade they come with makes really ugly cuts on stainless. The steel demon blade has more teeth and does an ok job, but it's not perfect. They are like 95 dollar blades.
@@davidcraft4909 That’s what I’m looking 👀 for something like that , the funny thing is ! that’s how I came across your channel Sweet I’m new to welding just a rookie Just want something that’s works and by the looks of it 😀 It works good 👍
@@ElJuicePerformance If you do get one, only cut stainless with it, don't waste the expensive blade on regular steel. I have cut about 50 to 100 cuts on ss tubing and I already notice that the blade doesn't cut as smooth as it was when it was brand new.
Hey what’s up buddy just wondering would you recommend this for doing pie cut I do not have room for a band saw Just wondering. I would like to do some headers Turbo pipe please help need advice big brother ❤
Honestly, I don't have anything to compare it to. This is the only tool I have ever cut stainless tubing. In my opinion it works ok or good enough for me.
NEVER use sand unless in a well-ventilated area nowhere near other people and wearing an appropriate mask. Using regular sand otherwise will give you silicosis, a very deadly disease
Yeah, I know. I was outside, ventilation is atleast half way good. I also use a respirator most of the time. Well, after making that video and trying some abrasives that don't contain silica or atleast not as much as sand. I do not recommend using play sand. Not just because of silica, but also it clumps and actually sucks compared to slag and glass beads. Thanks for watching and that is good advice.
@davidcraft4909 I 'm going to try sand, but it needs to stay completely dry. I'm making a little oven for my welding rods, so I will use it to keep the sand dry. I also intend to process my own to get uniform sized grains. I prefer aluminum oxide, which works better and doesn't cause silicosis. I will be using regular silica sand in vapor blasting. It does a much cleaner job and does not create dangerous dust.
@@jpbonhomme5051 Honestly, the sand will stay dry enough, I had a bucket in my garage with no lid on it for over a year and it stayed dry. Now that I'm thinking about it, the first time I used it, I might have not had my in-line water separator hooked up. The second time I used it in a video and it was working a lot better, but I had changed the nozzle, hooked up my air dryer thing, I also have a shorter more rigid pickup hose.
i like the color and your lack of preparation can hellp alot of guys afraid to do things. vice grip garage shows how to rebuild motor and escape high price machining in his SBC econo build😊
Yeah, trying to make everything perfect can really stop people from making progress. I don't cut corners on the rotating assembly, but on paint, that 305 should be happy it even got paint.
3:33 "I don't really care." Spoken like a true DIY pro. Every time you under or overfill your fluids, deduct 10 points from your overall score. And, yes, we have a winner! "Oh, Dear, have you seen my owner's manual?" "Sure, Honey. I'm using it to paper train our new puppy." David, your video just made my day better.
I would suggest getting a cheap tig welder. The process is slower but tig can weld anything. It's actually very easy to learn, but it's really hard to make consistent pretty beads.
I got my ahp 203 and the 230 mig ahp also made by same owner as everlast but I’ve been running a lot off of my generator welder and works good but just make sure it doesn’t run out of gas or turn the welder off then the generator so it don’t mess up
Underrated intake manifold videos. Great job. I see you went from a 2 barrel to a 4, that’s what I’m thinking of doing, just took the 2 barrel out today and changed the distributor yesterday. I have a AVS2 that I want to install, this was before i realized I have to change in take manifold too lol, so now I either go through with it or just buy a new 2 barrel. Going through with the 4 barrel I would have to decide between a aluminum intake like an edelbrock or find a cast iron GM stock. I like the reliability and durability of the original cast iron, but I hear that the aluminum edelbrock performs better. What should I do and why? Why did you choose to go with aluminum? Hope to hear your response take care!
Well, mainly to fit the carburetor. I only run holleys or edelbrock, and they are both sqaure bores, aka 4150 flange. I wouldn't expect to gain much power from an intake, but it's supposed to be proven to add a little bit. Also, they look better. As far as reliability, I've been around lots of engines that have been running aluminum edelbrock intakes with no issues at all. The only thing that an iron intake can handle better, is if you run straight water with no anti freeze. The aluminum will rot faster than iron. You will have a hard time finding a good stock iron intake that fits a edelbrock. Most are for spread bore q jets.
I just removed my carburetor and there are 4 bolts sticking out of the intake manifold pointing upwards where the carb gets attached to. How do I take these out? On of them broke, how do I take that one out?
@scoobydooby6180 I would have to see it to give the best advice. But if it's broken flush, then drill a small hole in it, and use a bolt extractor. Or weld a nut to it if possible. Or drill it out and use a heli-coil.
@@davidcraft4909 for sure, thank you. I think it won’t matter much in the end because I’m deciding to go through with switch the intake manifold so that’ll just fix the issue right then and there
I have built hundreds of small block Chevrolets over the years, and I think I can say with confidence that the 416's are superior to the 801's. In fact, the 416 is probably the best 'stock' head you put on a 307. I have built several 307's with these heads and mild to moderate cams and they absolutely scream. I love em!
Turn the fan away, seen that it had blown the gases away a few times, when you end a tack/weld and it sparkles, thats when you know you have porosity in it, other than that awesome work. Keep it up and have fun with it.
@davidcraft4909 I've been a welder since 1997, welded many types, but I'm about to try aluminum stick for the first time on a golf cart frame. So we all can learn new things.
Im so glad you showed the 2wd nature of having a front ratchet. I was worried that ANY inequality of torque on the wheel side would activate it. Glad to see that in 2wd the steering is still 'normal'
Honestly, I'm not going to lie. I almost don't like it during more casual easy trail riding. You will most likely be keeping both hands on the wheel. Because as long as you have it in 4wd there will always be some sort of tension between the front and back. Mine is full time locked in the back and I have no idea if those effects it. But I'm just saying you will be fighting the steering wheel a lot more over easy light off-roading if in 4wd, but it will definitely go through more stuff, anyway thanks for watching. It's really not that bad, but very noticeable.
So, David? There are two primary oddities about an SBC- one is that they will run no matter where you put number one on the cap as long as the wires are in the correct order. & 2:- for some reason they always run best when you have #1 in the factory location. This is when the rotor button & it's conductor literally point towards cyl. #1 on T.D.C on the compression stroke. And, as you route the plug wires, make sure that #5 & #7 do NOT touch or overlap. I have ended up using the second shortest wire of a set for nearly a straight run directly to #5 from it's tower on the cap & whichever one is long enough to go CW, around the back of the dist, over to #7. Reason being I cannot tell you how many times I have seen no-spark-no-start SBC's that have/had wires #5 & #7 either intertwined, crossing one-another, or ran alongside of one another looking like an N gauge railroad track. "Every" one of them needed an ignition module, w/out exception. I won't even run them in a wire loom next to one another. We didn't ever encounter this peculiar oddity until '74 when Chevy began using HEI ign. systems. My guess would be their proximities to each other aren't overly conducive to allowing a sufficient dwell angle within degrees of rotation of the rotor button between two successive discharge incidents of the coil secondary windings. And, that wheeze-oh-five exhaust manifold on the passenger side must go. Shop around & find you a set of long-tube Hooker headers or just replace it with a 350 manifold if you plan on keeping it then use those dead-soft aluminum gaskets (maybe ebay?) for both the flanges and the collectors as they do not come loose once properly tightened
I do normally put the #1 in the correct position. And, I usually watch the 2 valves on #1 stay closed as it approaches TDC on the balancer. It was just a lot faster to pull the cap and do the method where you watch it blow out a paper towel ball. I also usually use a timing light. This engine is missing the timing tab. I'm not done with it, there is a lot of things to go through.
One important part you forgot is that bc it's a Chevy, it will run decently if the thing cranks evenly on each cylinder. If you ran it before you parked it with the distributor that far retarded that is absolutely why it seemed worn out to you. The engine actually sounds "very" healthy to me; at least given the dist is so retarded it barely runs. When you turn the distributor CCW, stop moving it when the coil cover is square with the firewall or like even with the back of the engine and see how it runs then.
I will eventually get to the timing. My goal was to just get it started that day. If you move all the wires over one space, then having the distributor in that position it could be way advanced. Well thanks for watching.
@wacoldestv1704 I don't know if I told the whole story in the vid. But mine was losing a quart or more on the way to work. About 15 miles away. Thanks for watching.
Very entertaining. I was searching for whether you could use an electric motor to spin the turbine in the turbo but I saw your video and decided to stick through the whole thing. Had to drop a sub but could you explain why an electric motor wouldn’t work?
Firstly in MY experinces over the last 40 years VHT is Piss Poor product. Doing little of what it claims.. period. Beyond that : I Suggest using Regular Paints (not any claiming 'Hi Heat') Simply because Engines don't normally exceed temps that normal paints can tolerate . Consequently normal temp paints are... Very Effective... indicators that you have Seriously overheated the engine. As in Idiot Proof evidence . Masking that instant read evidence potential with a more heat tolerant paint is NOT a good thing IMO.
That is a good idea, but I think it is kind of obvious if you have overheating issues because of other tell tail signs. For example, if your engine temp gauge shows more than your thermostat temp, or if the radiator cap blows steam out. thanks for watching.
Practice makes perfect, well that's it,,,, at 65 still tweekin' bolts,,, oxy acethls,,, stick weld 2.5/1.2mm,,, gasless,,, & JBWeld,,, difficult is stainless steel!!!...
I have coolant in my 3rd spark plug port. No other issues. Could it be the intake manifold gasket? Or do i need to pull the heads? I didn't run it hot. 95 gmc. 350.
I apologize for the late response, but if you have water in a cylinder it's more than likely a head gasket or cracked head. That's just my opinion. Water only flows across the very front of the intake. I would say it's not very likely that it's coming from the intake.
Unfortunately you have to paint a iron manifold or it will rust. But the paint hinders the heat dissipation. If it were a aluminum manifold you would leave it natural because aluminum soaks heat faster than iron.
I agree, if it was aluminum, I wouldn't paint it. I'm just messing around with the idea of painting heads and intakes to make them look like they are aluminum.
I painted engines for decades without a primer, recently I have started using primer, both gave excellent results. Just do a light basecoat without a primer and follow up with several light coats with a little time in-between.
What’s going on brother.. had a question. I have the same carb running on my 70 Impala sitting on a 350 crate motor..how many vacuum lines are usually connected to the carb? What are the important lines that can cause the car to stall when on drive gear?
There is a line for the vacuum advance, pcv, and brake booster if it has one. Also if it has a th400 there is a line to the modulator. As far as what would make it stall in drive. The carbs idle circuits might be clogged, or maybe you have a vacuum leak.
@@davidcraft4909 rite on brother thank you. Ya it seems to idle fine when I go to start it up but once I change gears it’ll stall…(shut off). runs good on the freeway but whn i come to a stop light it stalls.. can’t tell if its a vacuum leak or just bad carb.
To add to that. Ignition timing cab also affect it. Also assuming that car is not your daily. If it sits for months at a time the gas can get water in it and cause idling problems. If it randomly pops when you start it up that's probably water in the gas.
Well, I never use primer, but I would say that if someone did and used a better-quality paint. It would probably last longer and not fade as quick. I'm not building a show car, so I'm good with no primer.
There is a guy who does mostly Mopar stuff on RU-vid. I dont remember his name. He suggests useing a blowtorch on the block to remove all oil in the pores of the block. You can see the color change on the block once the oil is burned off. It looked like it worked very well. He didn't use primer. Just a blowtorch.
Yeah, I've seen that video and he kind of goes all out on painting his engine. I'm sure his method is better than just using a spray can, so if my engine fades fast, then maybe the next one I will paint like in that video.
It can probably be used on anything, as long as you have a way to fill the pump with oil. Sometimes, pumps have to be primed to work. But I would say that if an engine has to be primed, there is probably something wrong with the oiling system. As far as I know it should pickup the oil on its own. Mine is a half way worn out engine that didn't run for years, so maybe the oil pump is not working at 100%.
I used this on my Hartley Brake calipers. 1st coat took off the clear coat, second coat took off the paint and primer. Just had to use a wire brush to get all the left overs off. Saved me hours of sanding all the little concave crevasses on the caliper.
Yeah that is the whole point of using paint remover or sand blasting. because its a lot of work to hand sand everything. thanks for watching and commenting.
You need a good cam to wake up the 305, it has small heads and valves. Boost is great turbo will be nice. I used Vortech centrifugal blower with good success on a dog 350. Have Fun, Dennis
