Thank you for being here. I have been working in an automotive industry since 2003 and Master Technician. In 2016, I started to write numerous automotive blog and automotive related articles. I love to share my knowledge and help others.
My goal here is to share with you the repairs procedures and diagnostic techniques I have acquired for many years ago. Every day when I walk into the shop, there is always something new to learn and in my opinion you will never stop learning.
I'm currently building a new blog, please visit my blog at autorepairprocedures.com/
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My car is a ecoboost 2018 crank but no turn on. Do you think is crank sensor? No codes Nee battery checked all fuses. Do i need to use an alignment tool for the sensor ?
That was awesome my friend, I’m glad my video had helped you out. It’s my pleasure. Yep, I have to agree the electrical plug is hard to get it out. Best part was you had it done on the Starbucks parking plot…just awesome.
If you want to struggle a$$ sh!!t then don’t remove the bolts. Do what as you see fit. I’m here to help people. If you don’t appreciate go somewhere else.
@@autorepairprocedures Ass shit🤣...Clever coming from a guy who can barely speak English. That's probably the first two words that you learned in English. There is no struggle in removing the switch from the side of the seat. If you're here to help people then do just that. No need to make them do extra unnecessary steps.
Very helpful! Is this bushing threaded? My bolt does not want to come out of the metal cylinder from the bushing that came off the bushing. Also what kind of lubricant did you use? Is there anywhere to buy this set of bolts for the knuckle bushing mounting to shock? Thank you and God Bless!
Hi friend, thanks for the comment. Bushing is not threaded. For your case, you have to cut the bolt and replace with new bolt and shock. If you live to the United States you can find bolt from hardware stores.
I just had some mechanics put some motor mounts in and did some work on underneath my car and the same thing happened by this video. I did it myself. Thank you so much respect😢😂😂😂😅❤
I would check corrosion at the battery and all the grounds wires. Is your transmission shift harsh or slight delay shifting into different gears? If so, I would check the transmission fluid, check for burnt smell or metallic materials. I would start here first.
Ya know you don't have to remove the oil pan to get the cam out on those, i just did a 2019 newer style like that and i got the oil pump popped forward enough to get the chain off the sprocket and just marked everything up with grease pen.
I have a 2010 chevy malibu 2.4L just today it started to shake and it doesn’t want to accelerate very well and its hard to brake and it has “engine reduced power” and the code that giving me is p2135 should i just replace the throttle body?
Fuel pressure sensor is usually on the fuel tank. On some makes and models can be access the fuel pressure at fuel access door. But most of the time fuel tank has to drop of the fuel tank to access this sensor.
Fobbed off by 4 garages saying "they couldn't hear anything" and this is exactly what's wrong. It's like they couldn't be bothered to simply tighten something Thanks for the video
I have a g37s I changed ground terminal one day and everything works except some of the indicator lights and gauges. But cars starts and runs normal giving out that code and battery circuit sensor. It has to be a fuse or relay but can’t find problem
Hello, After using an ODB , this is what showed up P1715 [0x1715] SSB Inductive Signature Malfunction SSB Inductive Signature Malfunction Status: Validated fault present at time of request, Validated fault has been present during this drive cycle Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you
Thank you for that explanation of the wire diagram. But i have to ask what helpful tips or procedure to fix the issue. You repeaded p0882 code over a handful of time along with saying battery corroded...im just confused.
Dang, fixed the high idle rpm and fuel vacuum in a 5 minute job and had a way to verify the removed part was defective. Good tutorial! Only a $10 fix in the end
I changed my terminals and recharge battery but my gauges and indicators not working as if cluster is dead checked fused and relays everything is functioning properly tho just don’t show on dash and my clock nor my a/c illuminate and security beep when doors open ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-b3KOXrJXccs.htmlsi=oO3Xzf4400546ZlB
The Infiniti common problem is cluster. But I would check for code. Don’t go to AutoZone for code scan, because they have generic scan tool. You need to have full functional scan tool, such as dealer scan tool or independent shop. I’m 100% your vehicle will have code. Don’t just put part in it. CHECK FOR CODE FIRST.
Thanks for the video, was helpful. We were able to do it without removing the top airbox components. Instead just remove the one bolt on the horn. Might have to reach a little from the left to pull the tension pulley, but I hate removing that airbox as it can be a pita to get it lined up with the throttle body intake again. Also didn't have to go underneath to put the bolts back on. If you leave the bolt that is on the fork side of the alternator attached to the block you can just set the new alternator on top of it, put the top bolt in and then its lined up for the last bottom bolt.
my car is nissan serena c25, i got code U1000 on BCM and U1001 on ECM. When i turned the acc on, the fan running in high speed and the headlamp also on.. what do you suggest?
Sorry to hear that friend. First I would check all fuses. And if your fuse blown for whatever circuit they are in, then figure out what kind of components are include in that circuit. After that you put a new fuse in to see if the new fuse is blown or not. If it is, I would start to figure what component causes a short. I know it is hard to understand, your electrical skill needs to be advanced to do this kind of short tracing and figuring things out.
