Welcome to the FiveAble® channel. I have used the name FiveAble® online for years. It has a few meanings to me. Initially it was a hexadecimal code, 5A, I looked for when I was a mainframe programmer in the mid to late 1990s. Daily, I dealt with IBM's Advanced Function Presentation (AFP) print stream data and 5A, or 01011010 in binary, were the first two hex characters of each line of valid AFP data. During debugging I knew if 5A was missing at the beginning of a line of AFP output then the data was corrupt. From there I started using FiveAble® as an online name on IRC, Internet Relay Chat, and with a non-profit community WiFi project I helped run in Columbus Georgia called ColumbusFreenet.org. My identity as FiveAble® has grown to include Instagram, Twitter and Tumblr as well as here on RU-vid and Google+. Aside from the geeky reasons FiveAble® has meaning to me, FiveAble® stands out as an exclamation of success. Simply put: If it's worthy of a high five, it's Fiveable®!
Thanks bro this helped me out so much .. my trucks been down all week . I found this video took it off cleaned it up an the truck started right away.. u saved me so much $ thankyou
Hi, I'm glad you were able to get your truck going again by cleaning the contacts inside your switch. I tried cleaning mine but the contacts were a little too far gone. Thanks for letting me know my video helped you! I really appreciate it!
im having alge issuse AGAIN this year. pool hasnt even been used this year and its starting to form. 1. is it not recamended to use cotton balls on small basket?2. should the water actually smell like clorine? wiyh my mix of chemicals i can barley smell clorine.3. my flow from return isnt very strong , I dont have leaks. could it be the cotton balls?
Are you using actual cotton balls or "filter balls" made specifically for swimming pool filters? I wouldn’t use cotton balls in any of the baskets. I have seen someone mention putting filter balls made for pool filters in the skimmer basket but I have never needed to do that with a properly functioning sand filter. Don’t worry about not smelling chlorine, that’s actually a good thing. If the water is correctly sanitized you shouldn’t smell the chlorine in your pool. A strong chlorine smell indicates the water has a high level of combined chlorine, or chloramines, (basically used chlorine) which needs to be refreshed by shocking the pool. There are a lot of videos about it. As for the slow return, this can cause problems with a salt pool like inadequate filtration and low chlorine production. Both would promote algae growth. If your gauge shows low pressure and your pump sounds weird, debris might have clogged the pump impeller which will prevent the pump from working properly.
You are amazing! Thanks for spending the time to share this repair! It totally worked for me. Your communication is stop on. I could not be happier when I saw the chlorinator working again. I would have not known to look at this exact welding if you did not record it. You just save us our summer pool fun this season. It is very hard to find a skillful pool repairman in my area. One thing I did different I went to the master breaker and switched off the 100Amp breaker feeding the pool panel and waited an hour to give time for any capacitor to discharge. I videoed my repair and will share it with all the credits going to you. Thanks again!
I’m glad it worked for you too! I agree about shutting off the power feed to the pool panel from the master breaker panel. That’s the best way to work on it. Unfortunately RU-vid does not allow updates to posted video footage other than trimming bits out with the web interface. The best I could do without losing the comment history, which people also find helpful, was add warnings in description. Thanks for the credit in future video! I hope you get lots of views. I made my No Cell Power video on a whim and filmed it on the fly. I’m so glad I did. The video has helped lot of people a save a ton of money over the years!
Yes, thank you so much! It really helps. Just after I fixed the ‘No Cell Power’ problem following your video, now I’m facing the ‘Pool Bridge Comm’ error and the Check System light is in Red. Anything I can do to resolve it? Thanks
@davidcai6573, I checked with the guy I know who does professional board repairs on these systems. Here is what he said: "That message shows up when the main board is looking for another digital communication component, like variable speed pump or chemical controller (ORP) . But most likely it is that the pump breaker is tripped. " Let me know if you get it going again! Thanks!
We did change the circuit board and the lightbulb is still FAST blinking. The control opener doesn't work, the remote control doesn't work nor does the keypad. We really were hoping to fix ourselves. Any other advice?
Have you checked the alignment of the sensors at the bottom of the garage door? My sensors have a green LED light on the side that lights up when the alignment is good and nothing is blocking the line of sight between the two. If the light on the sensors will not come on the wiring might be bad. Make sure the sensor wires are connected to the correct quick connect terminals on the back of the controller. Also make sure the terminal is contacting the copper wire. Depending on how much insulation has been stripped from the end of the wire, It is possible to insert the wire too far and the terminal will clamp down on the insulation instead of the copper wire and prevent a connection. I'm assuming you have reprogrammed all your wireless remotes and keypad, if it is also wireless, to work with the new control board. The control board is the part that stores the programmed codes. If you have a Chamberlain LiftMaster operner and need a copy of the manual you can download is from their website: support.chamberlaingroup.com/
Thanks SO much for your video. I appreciate the step by step. It gave me the confidence to try to fix it, and it was a success! Saved me big bucks! It seems like some kind of defect given the amount of people who have used your video! Thank you again!😊
Hi @victoriamarie4570, I agree, as common as this problem is, it definitely seems like a design, or manufacturing, defect. I'm glad you found my video helpful and you were able to fix your board yourself! Thanks sharing your success here in the comments!
Thank you Sir! After watching England lose to Spain I just completed this same fix on my Hayward pool system and it worked a treat…the relay solder joint was burned out and you could smell it from the moment I opened the controller cabinet…once it was re-soldered the error message was cleared. Thanks for such an informative video!
I can’t thank you enough for making this video! I had the exact same issue, same control panel, everything was identical. I picked up a soldering iron and some solder this morning at Canadian Tire for around $40.00. I followed all of your steps in the fix process and it worked perfectly. The local pool store “Pioneer Pools, Barrie, ON” had 1 replacement board in stock at a ridiculous price of $1700.00. I was dreading having to go purchase it and I am so glad I didn’t have to thanks to you and this video! Much appreciated!!!😊
Hi @DanielDoyle-n3k, Thanks for leaving a comment and sharing your success! It helps others see that this repair works and saves a lot of money. By the way, the solder repair in the video has been working great since I filmed the repair. April 2024, my salt cell died. I went to my local store and was quoted around $1800.00 for a replacement T-15 cell which is also ridiculous! I wonder if these prices are for a complete board and cell swap? Anyway, seven years ago the same pool store told me they couldn't warranty a new salt cell unless both the cell and the control board were replaced at the same time. Against their advice, I found a new cell for approximately $400.00 and it lasted until this April. This year I was also able to find a replacement cell for 1/3 of what the pool store quoted me. Hopefully this new cell will also last a very long time. Note: I did have to have the clock module replaced on my board but that was an unrelated problem. If you ever need more complicated board repair work done, I have found a professional service I use that repairs these boards. Their repairs come with a 3 year warranty and prices are very reasonable. Thanks, Tom FiveAble
Hey @gthom126, That’s great news! I’m glad you found my video and it helped you save money by fixing your board yourself! Thanks for sharing your success here in the comments!
Before you do this, There is a 20 amp fuse on the right my hand side of the board when you take the front metal plate off. Check to make sure this is not blown. The first time I cleaned my cell I forgot to unplug the cell and I blew the fuse.
Sounds like it might be a different problem. Are you getting any trouble codes (check engine light)? Could be fuel delivery related, like a bad pump relay, fuel pump motor, or fuel filter.
... Only on S/V70s released after 1998 does that system work. Previously, that light only turns off via the handheld device connected to the OBD. Resign yourselves.
My panel is about 13 years old and suddenly got that No Power to Cell message. This little fix took at most 10 minutes (should have plugged in soldiering iron at the beginning to save a few minutes) and everything looks to be working fine now. Thanks!!!
Any idea where to start with possible lightning damage? Both of my garage door openers stopped working about 3-4 days after a lightning strike took out a bunch of electronics in my house.
That's a bummer. We had some serious lightning in our area yesterday and I was worried about getting hit here. Sorry to hear that happened to you. Here are the things that come to mind that I would check. You said the openers worked for a few days before stopping. I'm guessing the outlets are okay but I'm going to give you some info about GFI outlets just in case. Have you checked to see if the outlets the openers are plugged into are still working properly? If not, and you have tried the breaker on the main panel, there might be an outlet with a GFI breaker on the circuit that is faulty or tripped. GFI protected outlets are the ones with Test and Reset buttons. If the GFI breaker has tripped, it will take out all the outlets on that loop. Since the GFI protection is much more sensitive than regular breakers, the main panel breaker for that loop might not have tripped. If you find one you think is on the same loop, push the test button, and then the reset button, on the outlet, to see if it restores power. If it keeps clicking then the GFI outlet has probably gone bad and needs to be replaced. If the outlets are good then maybe the control boards got zapped. There is a GFI outlet for my washing machine. If your washer went out too, maybe you'll get lucky and find it's the GFI outlet. Now back to the opener. On my opener, the power supply is part of the board I replaced in the video. I'm pretty sure there aren't any user replaceable fuses inside the unit. To make sure, I went back and checked the photos I took of the wiring when I had the unit apart, no fuses. On my opener model, the power supply is part of the board I replaced. Again, no fuses where the power cord comes in or on the control board assembly. It’s just a guess but you might be able to replace the control board assembly like I did in the video and get it going again. If you decide to give it a try I would double check the return policy before you buy two boards and try replacing one first.
@@fiveable it has power to the transfomer on the board. I will check if the 22v side has power. If the board is bad, I will just be getting new openers as they are 22 years old and only cost $100 more to replace the whole opener.
@@spidergoose891 Sorry if the GFI info was way too basic. It’s hard to know where to start with little background info. Unfortunately the power supply modules were never sold separately even though they are simple to swap out. I would probably replace the openers too. According to other comments, the price of replacement boards has gone up considerably since I made the video. Plus these days you can get openers with wifi connectivity and cameras built in.
@@spidergoose891 $100 more for a new unit isn’t bad. If you haven’t ever replaced the plastic gears inside that would probably be the next problem with the opener. Last time I got a set they were $30 and they were kind of a pain to replace because you have to mess with the chain. Wouldn’t be surprised if the gear kit is $50 now and that’s 1/2 the $100 difference.
@@fiveable No problem. Better to start simple if you're unsure of someone's knowledge or skill. I checked today, and it's about $150 for the board or $250-300 for the whole thing.
I'm no solder expert. In fact, I've only soldered one other thing many years ago. But, I pulled out the old soldering iron and did exactly what you said. I TOTALLY worked! Thank you for saving me and others money and frustration.
I got them at a local auto parts store but if you aren’t in a hurry you can find them cheaper online. Be sure the get the correct type for your vehicle and rims. There are few variations. You can also buy them from the parts counter at a dealership.
WOW, WOW WOW, I am not a repairman, I followed your instructions to the letter, everything worked perfectly it's incredible I saved so much money and time, thank you, thank you, continue to help us. 👍😉
Hello, thanks for the video, I had problems starting my car and I found this video and it worked very well to change the part and from several attempts I already start my car.
Apparently not! I looked the 41DB002-02 on the official LiftMaster website and this is what I found: ( www.liftmaster.com/receiver-logic-board-315mhz/p/041DB002-2 ) "041DB002-2 RECEIVER LOGIC BOARD, 315MHz - DISCONTINUED This product is discontinued and is no longer available. There is no compatible replacement for this product. 041DB002-2 is a discontinued 315MHz Receiver Logic Board. Commonly used with 1/2 HP LiftMaster® and Chamberlain® Belt Drive Garage Door Openers; manufactured 2005 to 2015 only. The unit will feature a purple learn button. Please locate your model number and refer to the owner's manual for troubleshooting and support."
I successfully replaced mine. But upon testing there was twice I got no crank. But it's now better than before when I had to turn the knob more than 10 times.
Thanks for leaving a comment and letting me know the ignitions switch didn't completely resolve your starting troubles. Sounds like the switch was only part of the problem. Hopefully it's not the starter solenoid but it could be if you are getting a click with no crank. In case you missed it, there is some additional information at the end of the video showing what I checked and fixed before I replaced the ignition switch. There is also a starter relay that could potentially be a problem and would be an easy repair. First off, make sure your battery is strong (load test, not just voltage check) and the connections and cables are good end to end. Once, on another car, one of the leads from the battery had a corroded section under the insulation midway through the cable that wasn't visible on the outside. It took me a long time to find it because I wasn't testing voltage drop from one end to the other. When you figure it out, feel free to drop an update in the comments. I'm sure someone else will find the information useful.
@ZEUSTHEGODD no, the contacts inside my switch were burned. Using the key wouldn’t have made any difference. Zero starting issues with my Armada after replacing the ignition switch.
I ran across another valuable piece of information in another video, can’t find it now or I’d post the link. When adding salt to the pool, TURN OFF SALT SYSTEM for 24 hours or it will burn out your PCB. I am assuming this is why that circuit is a common problem. I do dissolve the salt in the pool then run pump 24 hours, but was not turning off the chlorinator. I’m thinking mine burned out, got no cell power 2 message, after I added salt. Hope others find this comment useful.
I have a friend who professionally repairs these boards and also works for a company in Florida that builds and maintains a large client base of pools. I’ll ask him about it. One thing he has mentioned is that he sees the bad pin connection problem more often on controllers in southern facing panel boxes that get hit by a lot of direct sunlight as opposed to ones mounted on the shady side of a building.
I added the link below. Also, googled if you turn off chlorinator after adding salt and found a number of sources instructing to do so. However, the video I posted specifically states it will/can affect the PCB.
You are correct! I asked the friend I mentioned above and here is his reply: “As a matter off fact - it is right to turn off the generator for the next 24hrs after adding salt. Here is why: The salt makes the water more conductive. The salt get poured into the pool and falls on the bottom. When it slowly desolves and the solution reaches the main drain ( or get sucked into the pool cleaner) it almost shortens out the control board. The board shuts off and displays „high salt“. There is a note in the owners manual to shut it off.”
Should not matter much as long as it has a range of 0-60 PSI and the threaded end is 1/4”NPT. Other pressure ranges will work but 0-60 PSI is probably the best operating range to use for readability and accuracy on a 2” dial. Lots of gauge options pop up on Amazon with a search for “pool sand filter gauge”. Current price range is around $9 for a cheap one or $25 for a Hayward. I picked mine up from a local pool store for around $7.95.
@@fiveable I changed it today. Turned off the pump and clorinator and did the work. When I took the gauge off some water came out though. I should have needed to close the filter as well? All good now but my gauge marks 1 and it’s making a strange noise. What could be the issue
@ss_websurfer filter setting shouldn’t matter. Is your pump located on the ground at a lower level than the filter like mine? Sounds like you might still have some air in the system. Make sure the pump is primed. The way mine is set up I didn’t need to prime my pump and the air was pushed out when I started the circulation pump back up.
@@fiveable it’s the second week I have the pool. Complete noob here. There’s no weird sound anymore and I was reading my gauge wrong… there is 10 PSI now. I have an above ground pool. Pump and filter are next to each other in a level below the pool.
@@ss_websurfer I understand. I was in the same boat when I got started with my pool. Stick with it. You’ll get the hang of it in no time. The noise could have been the pump until it got good flow again. The water probably came out where the gauge mounts because the water level of your pool is higher than where the gauge mounts. In my case the water level is lower so mine pulled air in instead. I’m guessing you have a replaceable filter instead of a sand filter. If that is the case I would recommend looking up a video on how to replace or maintain that style of filter. Not that you need to replace the filter but because there might be good information about valve settings and priming the pump if needed.
The icon which looks like a cross section of tire casing with an exclamation point in it is for the Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS). First check pressure in all tires including spare. Some, but not all, spares have TPMS sensors in the valve stem. If all tires have the correct pressure and the light still stays on after driving a few minutes, then at least one of the TPMS sensors has gone bad. The most common reason is the battery in the sensor has died. It’s best to get a tire shop to replace them since the tire has to be removed on one side so the valve stem & sensor can be swapped out. Also, new sensors either have to clone the id of the old sensor or the new sensor code needs to be added to the TPMS settings in the car’s computer. As for the check engine light, if it stays on after starting the vehicle then you need to get an ODB-II (ODB2) scan tool to read the trouble codes. It might be something simple like a cylinder misfire due to bad ignition coil, but without a code to point you in the right direction it is hard to tell what’s causing the code. Try using a scan tool to clear all DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) and see if they come back. You might get lucky if it was a one time problem that isn’t happening all the time, but the odds are there is something that needs attention.
Great video! We have the same issue: the lights and the door don't work. But the "learn" button flashes a slow yellow. Do you think it could still be the same issue? We did have lightening strike which impacted other things in the house, too :(
Not sure what that particular light code means, but you can probably find a PDF copy of the manual for your specific model on the support site. If you send me your opener details, make and model number, I will look the code up for you. support.chamberlaingroup.com
i am having this issue but i actually witnessed that when i tried to power the salt cell on through the control panel some smoke came out from the board. before i invest in a solder and open up the board i wanted to ask if it might be a fuse instead (because of the smoke) and if so what i should do in that case.
Safety First: Before removing the sub-panel cover, turn the power off at the main breaker that feeds the whole pool sub-panel. That’s the safest way to work on it. I doubt it is a fuse. They don’t typically smoke and on a board like that if they go it is usually because of a problem that needs to be resolved. You might pull the board out like in the video first to visually inspect the solder connections. If it is a minor problem with the pin connection, re-soldering the pin might be all you need. If the pin connection is good it could be a bad relay or capacitor. For a better view of my board images are available on my support webpage: fiveable.com/support If your problem is more than just the pin solder connection I can recommend a professional service that will repair the board and give a 3 year warranty for a fraction of what a whole new board will cost. I have used this service myself for a clock replacement and have been extremely happy with their work. See link at the bottom of the support page.
@@fiveable i am awaiting delivery of my soldering kit but when i checked the rear of the motherboard there was some dark almost burnt looking area on the board directly adjacent to the discolored pin. could this mean more extensive damage to the board or is it consistent with this issue in the video. i wish i could send an image
@@jawfurr if the connection has lost most of the solder it will definitely look discolored. It could also give off smoke from electrical arching. Since you have ordered a soldering kit, it’s worth trying to solder it. For a better connection, scrape some of the blue/green coating off the copper metal trace that pertains to that pin. This will allow you to connect the pin to the trace beyond the burned area. Make sure to only solder the trace and relay pin that go together. Again, you can see an image of the board and re-soldered connection on my support webpage: www.fiveable.com/support. The triangle connection was done by the service with link at bottom and shows the shape of the trace for relay pin that usually needs to be repaired. Are you in the USA? HaflerUSA can replace relays and other parts but I don’t think they will ship outside of the country. I’m not currently compensated by or affiliated with HaflerUSA. I share their information because I have gotten great service from them with my own board the in the past.
I got your photo. The connection that is bad on your board is the same as in the video. Your connection definitely needs to be re-soldered. Luckily the trace on the board doesn’t look like it is in bad shape. I believe in your case re-soldering should be fairly straightforward and will not require scraping the blue coating off to get a good connection again. Please let me know how it works out. Hopefully you will be up and running again soon!
