@@SamuelGarcia-ss6ti I purchased a Firearm holster drop leg strap, and a “style and craft” brand leather 3 pouch holster with a clip, both from Amazon. I was skeptical of the pouch but it is hearty leather. Clipped the pouch on the molle on the leg strap, and added some velcro straps to hold it in place so it doesnt shake and move as much while walking👍🏻
Good work on the hotstick. I see too many people here using some redneck method of testing live wires instead of the right way. So good on you for using the right tool.
That ground rod driver is also useful for concrete form stakes and there are driver bits that are for the 1 1/8 and 1 1/4 hex for air and electric jackhammers and there is a Hilti shank that is similar to the SDS max on their demo only hammers. But they easiest to drive a ground rod is with that sledge hammer target you have and s mini excavator with a plate tamper yes it takes to people but it goes in shale easy .
How old are you. You don't seem old enough to have an electrical company. Not sure where your from but here you have to be a working journeyman for over 2 years before you can even start your own. I have seen every tool on the list, but still a good video. Thanks
I am 22 years old, completed my apprenticeship requirements in North Carolina in November ‘23, and Passed my License Exam first try in January ‘24. I started Palmer Electrical in February, and just do simple residential service work while I learn to run a business🤙🏻
@@PalmerElectrical GOOD FOR YOU YOUNG MAN!! That is very admirable. Where I am you are not permitted to hold a contractor license until you have Been a full Journeyman for over 2 years. I wish you all the best in your business and career.
I hesitate to buy the cable stapler, because it multiplies the cost of stapling, but I might eventually buy one for crawlspaces. on the other side of the coin, I carry an M-18 framing nailer in the truck. it makes adding blocking a heck of a lot faster and easier.
I still have my greenleee ratchet set, but I also carry a milwaukee cordless, and I keep a pair of P&R bits in the cordless set for the pilot hole. I've also upgraded from my ratched cable cutter to an M-12 cable cutter. partly because I hit a messenger wire with my hand cutter and the M-12 was the same price.
when the ground rod hits a rock, I get a small clamp and clamp the trigger on the rotohammer, then adjust the speed control so it doesn't bounce itself off the rod and go do something else for a while. with some models, you can stick a pair of linemans pliers in the handle and hold the trigger.
your temp drop cord needs a 4S box, and a GFCI in an industrial cover. it also needs to not have the nuke and ground twisted together. then if you want to get fancy, get a chinese finger trap strain relief and set it on the panel end. and hey, presto, you have an official completely compliant temporary power installation.. I usually make them with 12-3 UF and use a 2 pole breaker and two GFCIs, though. never had an inspector complain.
that breaker finder is designed to sweep the entire panel, and adjust its own sensitivity until it zeroes in on one breaker. I've got about a 95% success rate using it.
Nice list. The only one I was unaware of was the ground rod cap...great idea. My temporary receptacle is an 1110 box/cover with a short length of BX (armored cable). The breaker finder is good but much more useful if you can find one with adjustable sensitivity. The stapler is the only item I would forego since I don't do much Loomex (Romex) work (and speaking of that, was that paper inside your cable? In Canada we only have the bare ground wire inside our non-metallic cables, aside from cabtire). I would add step bits to the list instead...very handy for steel stud work.
Most new 12/2 and 14/2 in the US has paper covering below the plastic outer sheathing, and another paper layer over the bare ground wire. Im not exactly sure of the function of the paper, myself. Thanks for your comment!
that breaker finder self adjusts. I got one last year, and i have about a 95% success rate with it. also, the paper in the cable is just to keep things from sticking together.
Klein used to make the Cat# K90-14/2 with a 90-degree tip which works great for getting up into a box to strip 14/2 NM. I believe they made one for 12/2 but I can't find it with my tools. Not must 14/2 is used any more so it doesn't get used much anymore.
Good tool suggestions. I learned some things from your video. But if you could eliminate the (unnecessary) background music, it would be much easier to hear what you are saying.
It's slow as fuck if you have a lot to do. I've got some heat guns from when I worked in a foundry (they tossed em cause the ceramic tubes had some cracks). They'll ramp up to 900F. You have a high / low setting and a high / low fan setting, and then a damper on the intake, so you can adjust actual heat. They're absolutely amazing for doing PVC. Especially on equipment where it requires a hell of a lot more than simple bends.
@ObservationofLimits I've always found heat guns more limiting. A good blanket in good condition gives me a much smoother bend, and for compound bends, i can just step it down the pipe. Addendum: I've had cold days when a heat gun just couldn't get enough heat into the pipe without scorching it.
staying prayed up and never giving up is essential. Call me crazy, but building a relationship with the Creator is incredible-it's like recognizing your parents.has helped my buisness grown Any way just subbed to get ya going a Lil 👍
Everybody raves about the M12 Surge, and if I could go back in time I'd probably start with M12 instead of M18 -- seems like a great mix of smaller, lighter, quieter, and tons of control for an impact. Between brushless and battery tech, the 12V tools of today are *remarkably* performant. Sure, it's not the all-day workhorse if you're building a deck, drilling holes for anchor bolts, or if you need to run a paddle bit through an entire house worth of studs... but if you need that then stick on M18 and go get an SDS or a right-angle boring monster. I personally have the M12 installation driver. It's pricy, but it has pulled my ass out of the fire a few times with those attachments - the clutch on it goes down to basically finger-tight on even small fasteners. I'm not using it to fix a pair of glasses or set/grub screws, but it'll handle even fine thread <1" screws no problem. Also, just a heads up, that Rapidaptor *is not* impact rated. Wera makes solid stuff, so it'll do more than it's listed for, but just a heads up, it might grenade on you unexpectedly. I just got a set of Malco extenders, and while they're pricy they're *quality*. Wera also recently dropped a ratcheting variant of their VDE blade holder (KCTool has it; 057490 837 i RA) if that's a combination of features you want; you might also look at the 'xs' line of slim insulated if you find the 'normal insulation' gets chewed up with what you do.
I have an M12 Surge Fuel driver that i keep at home for shop use. I definitely can appreciate its power, but I do need the extra umph of the m18 for the work day. I have seen the installation driver, and my initial impression has always been that its kind of gimmick-y because of the interchangeable heads. At first; I thought the same of my Wera driver and its removable shaft and bit storage. Perhaps it is worth a look though, I do have a need for delicate driving. Thank you for your comment!
