@@HalfAssBuilt thank you for answering thank thank God is running good I am happy for you I have been worried about my 2006 bmw M5 the number 9 and number 2 Number 9 connecting rod bearings you only see cooper top and bottom and number 2 just the top connecting rod bearing you can see the cooper and my mechanic said it was fine but he didn't offer me to change the pumps he changed the vanos pressure line but he said crankshaft was ok but don't know where that metal went so what do you think
@jidana3194 the metal was most likely collected in the filter and could have been broken down to very small I'm currently on my second set of bearings on my m5 and they are at 120k miles roughly since the last change
Without fuel and just some minor weight reduction oh and no passenger sear it was about 3535 lbs I'm actually shooting to reduce it quite a bit more soon but I want to wait until I get sub 2 at buttonwillow with the current setup which is mainly just the weight reduction. I'm on stock calipers and rotors all it really needs is pads they did a fantastic job with the stock layout.
Hey man nice content, it’s hard to find a lot of track info on these cars. I’m just wondering how the driving experience compares to other cars you’ve taken on track. Thanks!
Thanks man. Yeah everytime I go to the track I'm pretty much the only one with one so it's hard for me to baseline my driving. Also I haven't taken too many other cars on track hoping to change that soon and try to get to where I can experience different cars. But compared to my e60 m5 that I have tracked it's definitely an improvement the shorter wheelbase helps with feel and turn in also makes it snapper. Compared to my friends e92 m3 we probably have about the same lateral grip at higher speeds but there is also a variation in alignment settings I'm maxed out on negative of stock. But I also have more wear and mileage on my suspension components then his does. Our acceleration is about the same up to about 90mph then then m6 pulls quite a bit ( I am going to be looking into my VANOS and changing the o rings soon to help on the response time of that system I think its giving me a little lag at the moment ) but mine is stock where his is decatted and a dct if I were to have no cats that would change that quite a bit. Compared to my e46 m3 which is done up a bit the m6 handles pretty damn well. Also the steering feel is sharper and more defined on it compared to the e46. The power difference is of course substantial between the two the m6 walks away from it. The car is pretty damn capable and pretty awesome to drive once I actually start modifying it it will be interesting
I know this isn't going to be the most comparative of data but here is a link to the data of my PB which had traffic at Buttonwillow I could have probably got low 2 maybe sub 2 that day if the traffic wasn't around also if I had slept more lol I think I had 2 hours of sleep that day www.racebox.pro/webapp/session/65b585095265acb80e45a80a
I think if you can even compare the on track feel to an e9x or e46 that’s already a win considering you have a v10 howling under the hood! I like the idea of taking something unconventional out there too. Thanks for the reply, I’m looking forward to more of your videos.
@philly9403 yeah haha it's a sleeper budget track car since you can get them pretty damn cheap and they are made for being abused and the v10 is a lot of fun on track. I love driving it on track. Also a note for comparison sake my buddy @MonroviaAlignment took my e46 m3 and m6 out on the same day and actually preferred the e63 although I think with my steering feel being spruce up with new tie rods and steering guibo he might have been a little bit more closer to the e46 maybe but he did get a better time in the m6 around Streets of Willow which that track has less bias towards hp cars and more bias towards better handling. Also to not the m6 has no fueling issues and can handle gs on a low tank without any fuel starvation.
lose the cart, tripping over hoses gets old and dangerous. i removed the wheels and hung the cart on the wall. all you need to reach over the top is one 10 foot hose ext and a 3/8 to 3/8 threaded coupler. both available on amazon for less than $50.
Yeah I have been meaning to do this for a while and haven't really had the chance to doing so well I guess I have put it lower on my priority list but I definitely should get to doing it that way I can move jacks around and so on easier.
I'm 71, I have cancer, heart failure and bad knees. If I can do it anyone can. I jackhammered 10x13 feet of concrete out (took me 2 months) paid a kid to load it all into a trailer. Installed rebar and ordered 3 yds 40K psi concrete. $700. 4 to 7 inch deep. I unloaded the lift and installed it on my own with no problem at all. my car hit the celing so i removed the foam panels and converted the joist to scissor style using the wood i removed. Been using it a couple months , its great to have, a bit pricey but ...no regrets.
Your'e a bad ass haha I was definitely lucky my house came with the correct thickness well a bit greater than the amount. I have been really lucky with all the cars that I work with and the ceiling height I have been able to lift them to where it maxes out and about 1 inch of clearance still exists then I lower it to the locks after. After about 3 years of use its been pretty awesome. I have done quite a bit of rod bearings jobs and clutch jobs this thing has made me hate working on the floor especially when I am inspecting a car after a track day. The only issue I have been having is if I load the car slightly off center it will lift one side more than the other and the only way to fix it and get it back in sync is to go to the max position and then lower.
It could be it would probably have to be two to three pieces i am thinking of designing replacements and if I can 3d print one I'll probably share that file it would definitely have to be made out of something like abs just due to the heat it sees
For swapping the injectors I would probably say do about 4 on off cycles with the key switch I'll also look and see if there is a prime function for the pump if you want to use ista. I would recommend changing your fuel filter at the same time if you haven't already
Awesome video brother . Simply awesome! Close to a quarter of a million miles on this E60 M5!!!!! S85 owner here: E60 m5 and E64 M6. Thank you for sharing all this knowledge!
It's actually past a quarter now I did most of the filming a while ago just put the video together recently she's about to be at 256k miles soon haha. Thanks for ordering the O-Rings from me I greatly appreciate it
Yeah I could have done more but I think it just being able to hold the set point cam position is already such a huge improvement. Also you better get sub 2:06 on the 6th
I'll try I'm getting my M6 prepped back for track duty so I'm going to be documenting some of the maintenance I'm going to be doing to it so I should have a couple more coming
I bought it with about 179k miles on it did all the maintenance myself but I've only spent about 1200 or so on the engine maybe probably a bit lower. Bought a new SMG pump as well and changed the seals got that from MLR that helped me know that that won't fail unexpectedly just due to age.
Sorry for the late reply I'm still sitting at the same weight actually planning on removing more stuff soon I added the passenger seat to give rides in so if anything I'm heavier again
That's a interesting combination. I consider myself a BMW guy. But I also love the S13. I am really stoked about your project. Hopefully everything works out in your favour. I wann hear that S62 engine.😍
Engine seemed to be original and I did the rod bearings and fluids. Other than that just brake pads and tires. I did clean the radiator out a lot of the fins were clogged
Actually posted a video of it documenting the parts as I removed them or in groups kind of. But it's Race seat installed No passenger Passenger door card removed Trunk interior removed Muffler delete H6 battery instead of h8 Rear seats removed I think that's about it might be missing something
Yeah if he's had Rod bearings done and throttle actuators cleaned or replaced he's good. My buddy tracks his no problem haha they're built for this reason
@rwense1 on my m6 yeah on my m5 I swapped it with one with the similar miles because mine failed due to a fuel injector locking open at street speeds haha.
Incredible mileage, finally showing the world how solid of a car these V10's are and how truly underrated they are. But if you know, you know. Hey fun fact. Cristiano Ronaldo used to have one haha
Yeah I definitely want to show that these cars are way more reliable compared to what a lot of people think I have a manual E60 M5 as well that I'm approaching 229k miles only thing it's mainly having an issue is the vanos solenoid quality but I'm planning on cleaning those and changing the o-rings and seeing if they can be repaired instead of replaced will be doing a video on that soon
I've been loving them. I'm probably going to give g-lok a try next. But the xp20 pads in the front have handled everything I've thrown at them while I was using my Nexen SUR4Gs. They are very loud for the street but for the track they are awesome I would estimate my car at about 3700 or so and maybe 3900 plus with me in it. On autoclub which is pretty hard on the brakes turn 3 I never had fear of fade I would enter at about 130 or so mph and hard on the brakes to 40mph. Definitely good pads
I'm not sure I'd be comfortable trusting those concrete anchors to prevent the posts from pulling out toward the car. I know not even some of the taller ones have supports between the tops and I haven't seen any reports of failures so I'm probably just overthinking it.
The plus side about this being shorter is the leverage is not as great considering it doesn't go as far up but yeah you get used to it. To get the anchors to slide out would take a pretty high force and most likely more of an impact force rather than a steady load
I have the exact same expansion joints in my garage, and need to install mine exactly where you have yours. Even though im dreading doing it, I'm leaning towards cutting and pouring footings instead. Any issues/sketchiness with yours right on the 4 corners
So mine just cracked recently I read another manual from bendpak for their 7k 2 post and it says 6 inches minim distance from any control joint or Crack I'm actually going to drop new anchors in and probably shift about 1 foot away from the crack. I wish I knew the spacing thing earlier. My floor thickness is about 5.5 inches and it lasted a bit over a year before it cracked and I've used the lift a ton.
Sorry for the late reply my original distance was 132 inches outside to outside edge was able to left my x5 e70 with it with decent room to open the doors not a lot of room but not no room
I think all concrete anchors need to be a lot farther from concrete crack control joints. Check your torque frequently, I hope you don't have any problems with this in the future.
well sir you jinxed me I actually found a hairline crack today. But yeah you are correct. I looked into the distance from a control joint and it doesn't specify on the this lifts manual the distance but on another it says a minimum of 6 inches should be the distance I had mine at around 3.5 inches. It lasted about a year and some change but I recently left a car on there for an extended amount of time thinking it would be no issue and whelp. Lesson learned I guess.
@@HalfAssBuilt Shoot, sorry to hear that. There are fixes but they require quite a bit of work, saw concrete, dig undercut to key in and thicken, drill for rebar pins, there's good information on YT. You could hang plumb bobs from the ceiling close to your post to see if they tilt inwards with weight raised up. Best to fix it though. I am researching installation info for my used lift, I have lot's of challenges, cracked uneven concrete that I know is too thin but no budget for replacement, also a long honey-do list ahead of this. Good luck.
I didn't know the concrete thickness exactly but I guessed it by the depth of control joint I think I estimated about 6 inches. I was pretty sure since the garage I have seemed to built pretty solid at least floor wise I assumed it was a pretty good psi. So far it's actually been pretty good I've lifted my x5 about 5k lbs and left it up for about a week or two
@Shane and Laurie Brown no problem I know their minimum rating for the floor is not too crazy it's a 4.25" steel bar reinforced with 3000psi compression strength
@@HalfAssBuilt That's some mileage on stock components. I'm hoping to make it to a track day in my 08 M5 6MT. Just had the dampers replaced and the "thrust arm" bushings in the front end, plus Vanos pump, rod bearings, and a host of other minor things.
@@computiNATEor what was the reason for replacing the vanos pump did it fail? Also yeah of course the pads are nor original nor the Rotors but those were oem. I would suggest replacing your injectors and your fuel filter possibly
@@HalfAssBuilt The car is actually at a shop now, and they found metallic flakes in the oil. The engine wasn’t knocking though, so I am being hyper aggressive. I have a vanos pump, main engine oil pump, and rod bearings all being replaced right now. Yes! I am in SoCal. Fullerton, to be exact
question I'm thinking of buying this lift. I would like Savoy according to you it can fit in my garage I have just 134 inches wide from wall to wall thank you
Great video. Looking to add one to my shop soon. Wanting to mount the pump assembly on the wall and trying to find out the dimensions of the plate where the pump and flow block mount. Tried contacting the manufacturer and they are unable to provide that information.
Great Video, my MaxJax (Bendpak Version) actually came with covers for the auto locking mechanisms that hide all of the springs etc. How much fluid did u need after all? Thanks
