Did you not use the 370 diff? I know they have the wheel speed sensors attached to them already, maybe this is the 8.8 option? What front wheel hubs are you using ill go back and try and see what you did for the fronts I think I will have to do that.
@@automotivemindset would i be able to use their cross member to keep the front end in line when replacing the frame rails? I wasnt sure how well their products lined up with oem ones. my car doesnt have a front cross member
@@TaxFraudSpecialist idk If I would rely on that. I would make your own jig attached to each mounting spot on the frame rails and then maybe to where the door brackets bolt up to or some other mounting spot other than the rails so you have another point of reference. The front crossmember didn't line up 100% and had to be pulled to the frame rail.
@DAT240Z72 I've seen videos of the front ends of these cars flexing while racing, if it doesn't support the sway bar I believe it will add some rigidity to that area. Check out my earlier videos of the internal frame bracket, fixing that first I feel is a must. It was extremely rusty.
@@lycanguianos I'm using the stock manifolds but will be modifying them. I'm mocking things up currently and will be back to the exhaust soon. I will make a video on this.
@greezyzgurage i made a video removing the r200 differential, it wasn't too hard. It was more of a fun progress video and not really a instructional video though. I can make a video about installing the super 8.8 if you'd like.
I will be using a modified harness from a 2016 gt mustang, anything left over from the datsun side of things like the headlights will be tied into the mustang harness.
mine had the same issue with the hatch, the bumpers that go in the drip rail area corrected the offset of the gaps for me, however I would still prefer to go and add a second one
I always thought a 68-69 510 rear quarter panel marker light would look good. It's small and round, almost like the roadster. They aren't big and bulky like the 70-on marker lights.
@@automotivemindset @automotivemindset 68-69 only. They changed in 70. I call them cherry lights. But ya, small, round, not bulky. A Datsun oem product... If you can find them.
I got these from zcardepot zcardepot.com/collections/sheet-metal/products/floor-pan-reinforcement-sheet-metal-240z?srsltid=AfmBOopeyQHjZM7OC4mVrpufbmP50qcrGNkSoxAqo0yDwrSsaazP_Qbl
I fitted the KFVintage L&R rear quarters to HS30-00211 here in Australia (Customers car). They required some work (not quite to the same extent as the issues in the video) but compared to the originals, these were a godsend! I would definitely use them again. Regardless I did give Gerson at KFVintage some constructive feedback on them. I also believe that not everyone fitting them has the skills to rectify the issues (mostly Americans as far as I can tell from socials...), and furthermore that the Z they are fitting them to doesn't have the other chassis problems making them more challenging to fit... Furthermore, If you are think that the KFVintage panels will fit like an OEM panel, you have rocks in your head.
I have a 69 2 door 510. Ive used a few of their panels. They all had to be worked in some shape or form to fit right. The way i see it is ya, they needed to be worked, yathey aren't cheap, but finding panels is a pain. Specially good panels. Im grateful someone makes panels for these old Datsuns. So it is better than nothing. I do think his prices are a bit out of reach for most. Specially after you include shipping. Either way. Love the progress on your z.
Hello, never change a quarter panel when car is mounted in the rotisseri... Jig it and level up with laser. There will always be problem with aftermarket parts. But its also very important to check measurements on that old car, from old damages and repairs.
Before I started any work on this car I took measurements. The car was then braced and then work was performed. I understand aftermarket parts have their issues, this video points out these issues with these specific panels.
to add to this, I ordered firewall panels from them, and where the firewall curves down by the frame rail is legit like 2 inches off (on the driver side). I'm gonna have to use some self tappers to bend the metal down and get it tight
Yikes, I got lucky and didn't have to repair my firewall. I was told from KF that other people don't have problems like I had and of course blamed it on the car.
@Tonydude280 if you are truly interested I can send you pictures and videos of the terrible quality before it's even attempted to be installed on the car, wrong dimensions, the holes drilled in the wrong spots, corrosion, etc etc. This is all stuff that can be seen before any work is done.
Thanks for the video, was 1 month away from purchasing panels from them, not the quarter panels, but floor, rocker, firewall and maybe the hatch slam… did you find any major issues with any other pieces from Klassic Fab?
Not a problem. I've done the hatch slam panel, the rockers, the floors, inner wheel wells, the battery apron area, some framing pieces and most of it wasn't too bad. It's the quarters that required the most work. The rockers had to be modified slightly to get everything to line up, it needed trimmed and move down. The floors were great, no issues there. The hatch slam panel was good, no issues. The inner wheel wells didn't line up the best and required work. Another guy commented on the video stating the same thing. Customer support with KF was good at first and then I was told that it's esentially my fault and these quarters fit like oem and no one else has issues.
I would like to point out that the rockers don't exactly meet up with the 1/4 and I'm unsure if this is a 1/4 issue or the rocker panel. You can see the gap on the top of the rocker in the video. The rocker I know is 100% in the correct spot as I had the originals and took about 100 measurements and my oem fenders line up with the mounting points on the rocker. I will have to fabricate up a piece down the road to fill in this gap.
Check out @TaxFraudSpecialist's comment. He has a review on the firewall. I can't comment on the firewall replacement from KF. I made my own panel for the repair I had to do on my firewall.
@@automotivemindset Remember that even HAVING sheetmetal for Z cars was non existant until very recently. The price for everything will be significantly higher than a '67 mustang.......much bigger market. The "picky eater" mentality with old Datsuns will kill you. NOTHING on these cars is throw it on, fire and forget. I just finished a 240Z, nothing just went together, everything fought me. Just the way they are.
@conniemclaughlin3156 I couldn't agree more, this video was made to state these things for people that are interested in getting into these cars. The more info out there, the better. I wish I had a video like this before I made any purchases.
Did you have any issues with the inner wheel wells fitting? I got mine into recently and it looks like the radius of the flange that you weld to the inner is off quite a bit.
Yeah they were a little bit off, I remember having to pry one side to get everything to line up. Wait until you get to the quarter panels. They are much worse, the 1/4 panel window holes are off, the flange at the bottom is too long where it touches the rocker and pushes the panel out too far. It's also flared away from the car. The rear flange had to be cut because it was too long and wouldn't allow the quarter to be positioned properly. The holes for the 1/4 emblem/badge are off too. I will have to reweld and drill new holes for it. Tons of work and according to kfvintage no one has this problem.
To be specific I still had my tires on and used a block of wood and a prybar off of the tire to push it in place where I wanted along with using clamps to hold it in place.
@@automotivemindset Thanks for the insight. I found that my inner wheel well arc did not at all match the arc of the existing wheel well and when I compared it to the quarter panel (just laying on the ground) it did not match with it either. I think I have been able to force it into place and will have to make a relief cut in the flange. Will be interesting to see how the quarter panel goes on once I get to that point. Will be a little while though. Your car is looking good. Hopefully I'll be able to get mine to that point soon!
@dustinarnold5452 good luck! I hope you have a better experience with the 1/4 panel. I was working on the car last night and noticed I also have to cut the rear flange on the passenger side and extend the metal because it's too short. I also found that they drilled the holes in the wrong spot so the 1/4 emblem will not fit. I will have to weld up these holes and redrill them.
@@automotivemindset that seems fair, considering everything included and the fact it runs on the crate. I am about about done with my current project car and looking to get into a different one. Which would be a 240 Z, which has been a dream of mine since I was a teen. I am currently looking at a F150 5.0 block or a 2.3 eco-boost from pick n pull most likely. Plus a Ford control pack obviously. I’m looking to be under 5K installed. But I won’t be looking at doing the dash and steering wheel as of yet, but very slick!
@@automotivemindset I admire your determination! I look forward to seeing it come to fruition. But for me, that is entirely too much of an undertaking since I’m without an at home garage! I rent space in a nearby town for my projects.
hi friend, im running into an issue where i took off both the inner and outer rocker panels, now its hard to tell how to line up the new panels. I think something may have warped? any advice would be appreciated
@@automotivemindset I unfortunately did not (dumb mistake I know). Do you think it would be possible to build from the trans tunnel out toward the rocker panels using kf vintage rear floor and firewall panels? thats the only thing I can really think of right now
@@TaxFraudSpecialist it's hard telling what to do because you don't know where the chassis actually moved to. I think your best best would be to get it on a frame machine to realign everything.
What's your reason for going with that fuel tank instead of the OEM tank? I will say it looks great and it's awesome it doesn't get in the way of the Apex rear suspension. I'm waiting on my Apex kit to be delivered. I haven't done my fuel system research yet but figured it must be possible to get a drop in filter in the OEM tank to run the 2JZ. But the way, check your local welding supply store for dry ice if you need it in the future. Great install!
It was a tank I was familiar with, I already had one in my 67 mustang and the dimensions fit and I love the way the tank looks. It was something I could use that would clear the apex suspension and it sits up nice and tight for me to be able to run a dual exhaust without it looking like your typical fuel cell that doesn't look like it belongs.
@automotivemindset good to know. Price looks reasonable. If I can't make my stock 280z tank work I might go with that or something similar. Keep up the good work on the vids!
@BLOKgarage another guy i talked to said he was planning on using a 71-72 challenger tank, the fuel neck is on the correct side and you'd still be able to use a fuel tank strap similar to stock. I wanted mine tucked up as much as I could though. Something else to consider when you do yours
Thank you. I coated the inside of the frame rails with steel-it before I welded them on. I did use some internal frame coating inside the half inch hole to cover the backsides of the welds though.
Hell yeah man, getting stuff done! We're at a pretty similar spot with our S30s. That first section you cut out, what even is the point of the outer panel? I have to replace one side soon. I'm just not sure why nissan added that there.
You know I caught myself asking the same question. Maybe during testing they found it was a high stress area and decided to double plate it. Tying in the fender apron to the frame rail twice.
@automotivemindset yeah that could be. When I get there in a few videos I might see if it's worth strengthening it even further with some thicker plate or something.
I’ve been restoring cars for over 50 yrs and even at one time had my own shop . I enjoy your attention to detail and your welding skills are amazing! Looking forward to the final results!
Im currently working on and almost finished with installing the frame connectors. I bought a 68 mustang 10 years ago and learned everything I know from working on that car. Thanks for watching!
I currently don't have an update on this specifically. I'm restoring the car completely so it will be a minute before I get back to this point. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much I have been wondering on how to do this but every other video just shows small patchs or just shows it already done without explaining anything
