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Hi. I have a 2005 5.3L automatic 4x4 Yukon with 223,000 miles. It holds 6 qts of oil. I changed oil (10w30 conventional) and filter (walmart brand base filter) before a 6,500 mile mostly intestate trip from CO mountains to Mid-Atlantic to South and then back up to CO mountains. In the first 4,000 miles of trip Yukon burned 1.75 quarts of oil. Before making the last 2,500 miles of trip (uphill to CO) I added .75 quart MMO (conventional formula) to bring level to Full. It burned none in 2,500 miles to and around CO before I changed the oil/filter. So it went from burning 1.75 qts in 4,000 miles mostly downhill driving to not burning any in the next 2,500 miles of uphill and mountain driving. On the trip I averaged between 16.8 and 18.1 mpg, checked by gallons and miles tracking and compared to vehicles MPG gauge. The computer was very close, always within .1 to .2 mpg. Can someone explain this dynamic? I'm going to test it again on another 3,500 mile road trip soon to South and back to CO again. If I have to add a quart I'm going to add 1 qt MMO to see if it stops the consumption again.
I use to do this on the VW every oil change. It does help to an extent but it won't complete stop cabon build up on valves. You will still need to go in there and do a physical cleaning also.
OMG!! i m a woman and my engine light kept coming up after service. I pulled the ECU fuse in and out, and GONE was the engine light!! Thanks man! Life saver!! It was so anoying that the fuse light kept coming on 😊 I have a Renault Clio Estate 2013, ecu in place 29!
I’ll never use this product ever again….. chemical guys all purpose cleaner is way better …. Y’all will thank me spiritually…. Cuz I used this gunk Bs and after rinsing it off it layered EVERYTHING after and made my engine look even worse… I was pissed …. All purpose cleaner is way better .trust me……
I'm no fluid expert, but odds of that small amount of oil between the two lines at the end probably doesn't contaminate the clean oil much at all. When they want to charge 85 for a simple oil change, I'd go this route for a couple rounds and then bring it in.
old mechanic here try coating plugs in baking soda then cover with white vinegar watch the nasty boil off works good after that shot of brake cleaner reuse till ya get new plugs or till they foul out again hopefully helps someone works good on anything
Make sure to keep the reservoir topped off as you do this as not to introduce ait pockets. Best to jack the front tires up first and don't do it too fast or go all the way to lock and bang the wheel hard or it'll make a mess. Smooth back and forth motions will move the fluid through the system. Make sure to use the right fluid too. Lots of brands take brake fluid and not a generic power steering fluid.
Did you have any codes before cleaning the injector i have p303 I swap the coils change spark clean the port injectors but did not remove the direct injectors for cleaning I don’t want to mess out with the high pressure injectors
You can manually articulate an electric TB plate, just be careful doing so. Do it slowly, and don't force the extreme position on either end. I've never had issues after cleaning my Ram 5.7 Hemi TB like that every time. I actually always remove it for a cleaning because it is easier to work on. It sits right on top of the engine up front so it is easy to remove. 4 bolts and an electrical connector. Never had any problems.
