Thanks for the demo. Ive been squatting on the floor trying to do this. Lol. Ive seen these before and never realized how useful they can be. Great for me because I have little workspace and it stores easily.
The ground wire was fine on mine I know a lot of people talk about that. I just replaced the button for 10 bucks off of Amazon and it started working. For the video
I got a code 01793-001 “Vacuum pump v22, activation ground (GND) - upper limit exceeded” would this be the cause? I keep trying to find out what the vacuum pump even looks like but the internet keeps saying something about a brake booster i have no idea when i looked up audi a8 4.2L v8 vacuum pump this is the first video to pop up
Hello From Brazil. We have a touareg 2008 4.2 v8 with the same engine as your video. I suspect that the diafragm (inside pcv valve) is perforated, because there is a lot of air suction on oil cap and when i acelerate a lot the EPC failure warms up in painel. My doubt is: Can I substitute only the diafragm (i found the diafragm on internet) but i didnt found all pcv valve to buy. Bests reguards. Rafael
@@alexmora8841 probably im so glad you took the time to mansplain to me how to use a bed frame! Im sure with your help the internet will now be that much better!
The problem with running a ground wire direct to the metal body is that the hatch lock is always openable. It unlatches when anyone presses the button - so there is no security. My fix was to put a toggle switch on the wire going to ground. The toggle switch is mounted on the inside of the car (I put mine on the top end of the hatch's inside plastic cover). That way it is possible to lock the rear hatch. Also: t-tap wire connectors (wire splicers) make the job even easier: no need to strip wires or soldering and taping. The hard part is removing the back plastic panel. Look at RU-vid videos that show how to do that. Saves a lot of trouble.
I am so glad you enjoyed it and that you love what we do for those like yourself who are not aware of how to do this stuff on your own - please come back soon!
This is my all time favorite RU-vid diy video. Last night I installed one side and I mostly followed your instructions and it went perfectly. I found myself quoting you with a few "bams" and "chaching" "chachongs" thrown in. The "cle-tis" pins all went in with power!
WRONG WRONG!! The ground works trhu the ECM, applying direct ground ,trunk will not work properly, ypu are bypasding tbe latch system Find the real issue!!
If you do this fix, then lock your doors, wil the hatchback still open even though the doors are locked? (This is an issue I have seen in other similar quick fix ground issue fixes done this way)... According to these other videos, if you fix the harcback door open switch this way, and lock the doors, the hatch will still open with the doors locked... Is this the case with this fix? -- The fix I have seen that is permanent is to replace the passenger side door lock actuator. The ground wire for the hatchback switch runs through the door lock on the passenger side. If the passenger side door lock goes out, so does the hacthback. This video is a how to to fix the door lock actuator: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5Ke-KRg8vCA.html
This video is for a Nissan Tida, but has the same electronic path and explains how the wiring is wired through the door lock actuator on the passenger side back to the hatchback switch. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-96QvBwVMrlM.html
That’s awesome! My sons 2010 Versa hatch had stopped working. Dealership said they had no idea what was wrong but suggested a new switch $400 plus install. I googled it and found your video and ten minutes later it worked like a charm. Send me your invoice. 😀 Thanks so much!