@@Ryan-cd9pm Hi, this electric handbrake isn’t really electric, it’s just got a motor that pulls the cable exactly like you would if you had a handle to pull up. And it’s still got the old manual type callipers. I’m not sure why they only did a half arsed job on it. If you have this type then it’s exactly as I did in the video and you can easily tell by seeing if you have pulling cables going to the brakes, or electric wiring to the calipers , but if you have electric callipers then you have to put them in service mode, or disconnect the cable plug at the caliper and apply 12 volts to the caliper and the motor will wind the piston back for you . There’s lots of videos on doing this on VW Audis etc. when you start the job have the handbrake off when you turn the ignition off. That way the pads won’t be wound up tight against the discs and you can simply unplug the wires and drive the piston back with 12 volts from a battery charger or a spare battery. You reverse the polarity to change the piston direction out or in.

@@thpxs0554 thanks, I followed your video and got it done, only thing I was confused about was the piston didn't get resistance when winding back, it just kept going and going, wasnt sure why. Otherwise your video helped 🙂

@@Ryan-cd9pm glad it helped, the resistance comes from the rubber seal in the bore and the grip of the dust gaiter on the piston, I think there’s a long threaded bar inside that the piston screws along as you turn it ( there is on all the VWs I did a few years ago ) . Maybe the bar was rotating with the piston, you have to apply pressure with a G-cramp and wind it with grips or the proper tool is better . The pip on the piston that engages with the pad stops the piston rotating, and the bar screw gets rotated with each handbrake operation and drives the piston out .

Hi, not the length. Only the orientation of the end so it pops on to the pin without a twisting tension in it ( or it’ll pop off again very soon after).

Im just sat with my car now, centre console out, how do i get linkage off back of gear knob? Does all that come out too? ​@@thpxs0554

@@thpxs0554 it popped off a week later, so on the gearbox end (once its on the gearknob end) you can turn it 2 ways, 1s tight and 1s not as tight, i wanna be turning it the way that isnt as tight?

@@geecee123 It won’t make any difference cos it’s only half a turn at most . It’s not threaded as far as I remember but half a turn wouldn’t matter even if it were . So long as it drops on the pin without needing to be twisted at all.

@@danielcarr5167 I’m not sure I understand what you mean, is it the radiator un dear the bonnet at the front of the car or the the heater radiator like in the video.

@@thomasrussell382 thanks, make sure the pip on the piston lines up with the cut out on the back of the pad and make sure the pads can be pressed in with your fingers not a hammer, and you should be good to go. The main issue is the pads keep getting stuck in the sliders and wearing away very fast

Hi, the translator is not very good but I think I understand you, You can not open it any other way except by using the cable, you can press the solenoid as I did in the video or possibly lift the little lever at the other end of the cable where the cable attaches. If you have a fault that’s inside the lock mechanism and the door won’t open I can’t really advise you. Maybe use a drill to destroy the lock until you can pull it to pieces. I did that once on a Volkswagen door that had a failed lock. If you have removed the lock and a replacement is expensive or not obtainable then I would drill the rivets out and see if it’s repairable. And possibly reassemble it with screws instead. But here in England they are cheap to get. There were lots on EBay from China. Hope this is useful.

@@user-ue2hp1pc6h yes, I re-mot’d my car in the summer to save sorting it out in January.

@@mikejames-e1z Hi, it means to check for continuity, it’s an old fashioned phrase from before test meters had a bleeper on them to indicate continuity. We used to use a battery and bulb or battery and buzzer .

The cause of the whole thing was eventually found to be a bare wire intermittently shorting down by the gear linkage, and blowing the 40amp fuse at the battery, the fuse my mate said had continuity with a DVOM (but couldn’t pass enough current to light a test bulb) it would be ok for days or weeks until it eventually became permanent, the original cause was due to a clutch change a few years before and the loom not fitted back correctly. We couldn’t find that short because it wasn’t there when we were testing, but then the driver noticed it sometimes happened as he pressed the clutch and changed gear. The whole thing was a pain in the arse due to Christmas week and him moving out and having to leave it on the drive with the new owner of the house.

I did clean them, even if you change the stainless calliper inserts the pads are too tight, I’ve done too many to count now, if you have to tap them in then they’re too tight to slide back off the disc, and after 40 years and hundreds of pad changes don’t you think I know how to clean the carrier and shims.

You might be able to just screw it in with a big set of grips. That’s how we used to do them before the tools were easily available. Maybe use a G cramp to push on it

Thanks, it’s still working fine,

Thanks, this crappy little video seems to have helped a lot of people.

Hi, it’s a 6 speed, try taking out the battery tray. 3 bolts I think, 2 under the battery and one outside the tray by the suspension strut, there’s a relay of some sort clipped to the tray as well. That should really help. Assuming you have the same engine and box,

Did all that. No way was that e18 going in there. I spent hours swearing at the thing. I even used you gear selection idea and no joy.

@@azimuth2142 did you get it in the end? My e18 is a 3/8 drive, so it’s not much bigger than the drive peg. Maybe put a torx or a hex back in instead. It was fiddly and I would have taken a hose off if I hadn’t got the socket in. But I don’t think the whole job was more than an hour.

I was using half inch, it was my only option as I've no adapters.

@@azimuth2142 that’ll be the issue I’m sure, it was tricky with 3/8. Is it all done

The steel pipe does come out, if I remember it’s got 2x torx at the manifold end in to plastic. The pipe has a slight extension from the flange so that it locates in the manifold. I’ve never seen one blocked on a petrol car and you could push a piece of cycle cable down it when the EGR is off but I’d be amazed if it were blocked unless your car burns a huge amount of oil. I’ve found that just turning the EGR around and plugging it back in (you may need to extend the wiring or buy a new plug with the 5 wires and just solder in to the original loom. This was the ecu thinks the EGR is connected and working and even if it were jammed open it wouldn’t matter cos it’s back to front so it can’t pollute the intake at the wrong time, but you must have an EGR that’s electrically ok, even if the plunger is jammed. But as I said in the video the cheap EGRs are rubbish

Hi, luckily you’re door is open making it easy to do. Remove the plastic door trim then go to 3:15 and 5:22 in the video. At 3:15 you see me reach in and release the lock and at 5:22 I show you what I did more clearly with the lock off the car. You basically push the operating solenoid and it pulls the cable and unlocks the catch.

@@thpxs0554 Thanks man! Keep up the good work!🙌🏻

Hi, it’s not my Toilet, I was doing it for a customer. It was installed when he bought the house. From an engineering point of view it’s got lots of potential to cause problems but in practice they seem to be mostly trouble free. If fitted correctly. There’s a big metal frame fixed to the wall and it all hangs off that. But I’d certainly recommend an additional isolator close by. One that’s easy to get to and to replace as well. I can’t comment on the other 2 makes other than I’ve fitted Grohe shower units and they’ve been completely reliable. Never called back yet

@@thpxs0554 thanks for the reply, reason why I was asking is because a lot of bathroom salesman try there best to promote this brand selling a trouble free German made cistern with metal flush plate, I never got roped in but I can see how they could be quite appealing if non the wiser, they can easily set u back around 350-400 quid. Thanks anyway mate much appreciated

It could be a faulty cap or it could be a genuine over pressure and the cap is working and doing its job correctly. The prime suspect if it’s over pressuring will be the thermostat, they can fail on all cars and cause overheating . You can just replace it or you can test yours in a pan of near boiling water to see if it opens right up. If it’s failed then you can cut the guts out of it and put it back in ( I think the sealing ring needs the rim of the stat in order to fit properly, hence I cut the guts out of them and put the frame back in , this will get you out of trouble until you get a new one, but if it’s still overheating then it could be a failed water pump, if the heater still gets hot then the water pump is ok. If it doesn’t get hot and you don’t have an air lock then the pump is suspect but it’s a pain to get off and it’s easier to test for a failed head gasket before you start pulling it apart. Basic head gasket checks are …. Does it have bubbles coming up into the bottle if you remove the cap and look in when it’s cold preferably. Is it misfiring, especially from a cold start. Then it runs ok after a few seconds .I’d remove the spark plugs and check the compressions, if you don’t have a compression tester you can at least look at the plugs and see if one of them is noticeably cleaner, due to being washed by coolant from a faulty head gasket. Also look down the plug holes and shine a torch if you need to so you can see if you have a much cleaner piston in one cylinder. If you look down the plug holes in the morning before you first start it you may see coolant on the piston that’s leaked in overnight. Sorry I can’t give you a simple answer, several things can cause your symptoms and guessing just wastes time and money. If you buy a bottle of head gasket detector fluid and put some in the bottle and run it you’ll know immediately if the gasket has failed cos I’ll change colour from the combustion gasses, which may be the easiest and quickest way to eliminate or confirm the head gasket before you do anything else at all. Especially if you’re not confident dong several checks removing things

@@thpxs0554 Thanks for that. Yeah what makes me think it isn't gasket failure is it just runs too well. No lumpiness or pinking at all, and no loss of horse power. The heating is fine so it's not the pump. But I've had problems with expansion tank caps before. It just gets stuck and the plug and yellow cap separate I have to pour boiling water on it to get it out. That cap is fairly new after it happened before. But whatever it is it just keeps pissing all the water out of the little overflow pipe. So I guess the next thing would be to check the thermostat. That I can do I've, done it before.

Thanks, some of my crappy unedited videos have turned out useful. 👍

Hi, it’s supposed to stop the water so you can change the fill valve but if yours is stuck then you’ll need to go further back maybe to the main stop valve. If it’s fed from a loft tank then you can simply push a bung into the tank out let pipe, bungs are available usually in pairs. Or just stuff a rag in the pipe, make sure you can get it out again. If it’s mains fed and you can’t find the main valve then you have a couple of choices, buy a freeze kit and freeze the pipe and fit a new isolator somewhere convenient, (or just change the fill valve while the pipe is frozen ) , this only works if you can stop all water flow through the pipe or it won’t freeze, so it’s no good if the fill valve is constantly running, you’ll never freeze moving water. The other option is to turn on all the taps fed from the mains and then change the fill valve while it’s running, turning on all the taps will reduce the amount of water coming out of the fill valve hose but it’s really not that much anyway even if you left it at full mains flow. The water will on,y flow into the toilet bowl so there’s no panic if it goes a bit wrong and you have to take some extra time, you won’t get flooded. And in a desperate emergency where you have water blowing out all over the place you can crush the pipe down with a hammer or pliers somewhere close by and then you’ll have time to assess the situation. A squashed pipe is easier to fix than a flooded house. P

Salut Je ne parle pas francais mais Je pense que tu dis que as change les balais de charbon mais maintenant ca fait beaucoup de bruit et ne demarre pas. So vous etes sur que le probleme vient du demarreur alors je de remplacerais simplement,ils ne sont pas vraiment concus pour etre repares comme les anciens . Je verifierais egalement les dents du volant au cas ou elles seraient endommagees,car cela pourrait etre le probleme a l origine du bruit. J’ espere que cela a du sens. J’ai utilise une application de traduction.

Merci j'ai très bien compris le sens de la réponse je vais le redemonté et rejeté un oeil j'en ai déjà démonté et réparé ça a toujours fonctionné on verra bien en tout cas merci encore

C'est ok l'ami en fait la fourchette n'était pas bien situé tout fonctionne

Hi, it’s much more likely to be a wiring issue unless someone has spilled a can of coke or coffee on to the BCM ( very common). So as a very quick check is the cup holder by the steering wheel wet, did a drink get knocked over even weeks ago. Take absolutely nothing for granted and don’t assume anything unless you’ve checked. Test the fuses on the battery, the strap fuses. Get a 12 volt bulb and holder and connect one side to negative. Then use the other wire to test each side of each fuse. Our local expert said he fixes more faults with a test bulb than any other bit of kit. Once you’ve established they’re all good, have a really good close look at the loom going by the gearbox, they can get worn through especially if it’s had a clutch and the loom got moved about, see if it’s rubbed against the gear linkage, if it’s definitely all good, then go to the fuse box in the engine bay and have a very close look at everything in there, there’s a big blue plug on some of them and they usually get corroded and the wires can rot, they may look ok but when you pull them gently they come away in your fingers. Open the plug and if it’s green and gungy then that’s prime suspect. You may need a small mirror. You’ll need to get underneath anyway to check the loom so you can also check under the fuse box while you’re there, is there any water in the fuse box, any condensation, scuttle drains are a terrible design and can channel water upon to the engine. The comms link from the ECU is a twisted pair of wires, it could be broken one or both legs, or shorted to earth or to battery , or the feed or ground to the BCM could be faulty. If the lights and windows work then the BCM is less likely to be faulty as it’s carrying out its other functions. My bet is corrosion in the fuse box or rubbed loom

@@thpxs0554 fantastic reply thank you so much. I've discovered it had a clutch not that long ago. So I will check the wiring loom above the gearbox first. The battery is dead so I've got another one to put on. The central locking works but I haven't checked the windows or indicators yet. I've got a test bulb and will follow your instructions to check fuses etc. Again thank you for your detailed reply and I will update this video comments to ensure it may help others. Top man!

Update, battery in and won't start still. All fuses at battery location good. Still immobiliser light doesn't illuminate at all. All bcm functions work, no water at bcm but haven't removed it yet. Scanned ecu and bcm and getting strange codes with my generic scanner, so ordered genuine opcom arriving Tuesday. Tomorrow will be pulling ecu and wiring to check for breaks and corrosion. I think I will find something here. Too many codes to be anything but a wiring issue.........

@@thpxs0554 another update. I've pulled out ecu and fuse box wiring, all looks very good to be fair, no signed of damage or green gunk anywhere I'm so surprised how clean and tidy it is. No signs of water damage. I've tested the can network from the ecu plug with ecu disconnected and got 120ohms as expected. The ecu can pins have 120 across the as well, so plugged back together will be 60 ohms as can is 2x120 resistance in parallel =60ohm. All fuses and relays are good. Tested nearly every component wiring from plug to ecu end plug all good except the turbo pressure solenoid pin 2 beige to ecu terminal C pin G1 was 84 ohms. But this won't stop it starting (may have boost control codes if driven under load etc). So moving forward the bcm isn't wet and all the control work as normal. The only thing still bugging me is I haven't seen the immobiliser led light on dash ever come on!!?? So has it had a immobiliser delete? Idk. But when I scanned the module with my generic scanner it said, engine immobiliser active =no. Immobiliser light extinguished =yes. So I take it that means the engine is ready to start? Gearbox wiring loom looks good and tracing the cables it's mainly the powers from the battery fuses etc and if they rub through the fuses blow, so I don't believe my issue is there. Today I'm putting it back together and sticking back on the large OEM battery fully charged. Before I was using a spare smaller battery and cranking speed was only 125rpm. What is the minimum crank rpm to inject fuel on these? VW Audi is around 225-250rpm. Ive got an idea the previous owner ran out of fuel, cranked until battery was crap and then call rac and they tried also and towed it away. She put fuel in but cranked and no start and sold it. Never had a strong battery and fuel since to start. Even the fuel gauge doesn't read a bar yet, however the priming build is hard and I have fuel and fuel pressure on live data. Any answers to the questions above would be great mate pls.

@@thpxs0554 OK so I've reassembled all wiring and found no faults. Have go opcom now and scanned ecu, camshaft signal missing, now have confirmed the camshaft isn't turning. So I've got a big problem. Chain snapped or sprocket sheared. Probably engine is toast. Will be striping it out beginning of April when I get my workshop unit and have the lift installed. Will likely opt for a reconditioned engine....... The immobiliser light led still doesn't work but the bcm was happy and the ecu had immobiliser signal ="okay". So I think it's got a bypass already.

The first thing is go to the battery and check the strap fuses on the battery. I think they’re 40 amp. Use a bulb not a meter, one side to negative the other to each end of the fuses, if it lights one side but not the other then that’s your first fault. Then you need to find why it blew. If they’re all good then the next common issue is the BCM gets wet. From tea and coke etc spilled over from the cup holder. It’s very common. You may be able to get your fingers in between the steering column and the trim and feel if it’s wet in there where the BCM sits. The coms is via a CAN circuit which is a twisted pair from the ecu to the BCM. It’ll probably be shorted to earth or to battery or to its other half or worn through and disconnected but that’s less likely as it would have played up while it was rubbing over the weeks.. so it’ll probably test ok for continuity but may also test shorted to ground or another wire and losing the data signal. The most common place is round the gearbox, by the gear linkage worn through. Then look in the fuse box under the bonnet for corrosion under the fuses and relays. Then get the plugs off the ECU and BCM ( total bastard of a job ) so you can buzz them out end to end once you’ve identified the CAN pair. Lastly suspect the BCM or ECU as faulty. Most faults are feed and ground failures due to corrosion or rubbing. My other video shows the wiring ( for this particular van, maybe not yours) and shows getting the ecu out. But that’s not until you look for the fuses and rubbed wiring and corroded plug in the fuse box. Until you establish the comms link there’s no way to see if there’s another issue. I’d appreciate it if you sort it let me know.

Hi, just turn it around and see if it suddenly runs fine, the light will come on ( if not already on) because the wiring won’t reach if you turn it around, but that’ll eliminate or confirm the EGR is faulty. You could also check the pipe to the manifold is actually sealed at the manifold end, it’s just a couple of screws, the EGRs don’t seem to be much good, so if yours is running rough but the light is off then your valve may be electrically fine but just jammed with carbon and needs a good clean. If yours is electrically good then you could just extend the wires on the plug to reach round and plug it back it back in in the reversed position, then your light should stay off . I’d go for a second hand original rather than a cheap copy off eBay. Same for the 5 wire wide band O2 sensors on these, I’ve been sent well off track by a new one being faulty out the box for £80 . A £13 second hand one fixed the issue. Cos the new VW part was £200.

@@thpxs0554 thanks for the reply 🙏 👍 ,will let you know how it goes

@@thpxs0554 the pipe from egr to throttle body has been blanked off with a sealed gasket, Could it be the trottle body that needs replacing

I was thinking maybe the seals have gone or the clamps have failed?

It’s almost certainly heater related. It’ll only take you 2 minutes to get the plastic trims out of the way and have a look, it quite likely to be the matrix itself leaking. The thing is, even if it’s just the O rings, it’s the same amount of work to find out and change them as it is to just fit a new matrix, and these corsas always have degrading heaters over time, so if it were me I’d just fit a new one from Coolparts and mine came with the O rings, which are definitely specials, they’re very very thin. But if your heater works ok and it is just the seals then put some quality RTV sealer round them and clamp them up again, my guess is the matrix is leaking due to corrosion. Very common

@@thpxs0554 thanks mate really appreciate it it was an easy fix because of this video and I did it my self

I put a smear of RTV on those O rings as well now. They’re so thin and don’t always come with the matrix

@@thpxs0554 RTV does that help to seal the joints, because I still have a slight grip on one about every 20 seconds , but once the engine gets up to temperature it stops. I was thinking about using some of that radweld, but I don't really like to use that stuff. I will try to reseat the joint, it kills my neck because of the position you have to be in to fix it lol, Thanks again for posting this video for others to see,

Wiring loom shorting to the gear selector blowing 40 amp strap fuse.on battery Damaged original ecu,

Sounds like the handbrake is stuck. It may be fully electric and not a hybrid electric with cables. It could just be a broken wire not allowing the current to release the brake or a failed handbrake motor in the calliper. You should be able to remove the plug and apply 12 volts from a battery to see if it unwinds, ( you will have to reverse the polarity if turns the wrong way) if that doesn’t work then you can usually unscrew the holding bolts and the motor comes off. That’ll free up the wheel. Tight pads aren’t enough to seize the wheel. I’m sure it’s handbrake related

is a electric with cables . like the one in the video. the rims are very rusty as just bought the car . if i marked the handbrake cable underneath then applied the parking brake it should move by how much? cheers@@thpxs0554

i have marked the handbrake cable and both moved about 8mm so not the cable stuck . i have tried to remove the caliper but the 13mm vibration thing is rusted out and i don't have a 18 open spanner . looking inside i can see the piston is out about 9mm and the back of the pads is destroyed by rust .so most likely the piston is stuck to it . @@thpxs0554

i couldn't get the caliper off as the 18 head was rusted too bad. so took the caliper bracket off with everything attached the problem was rusted pad to the disc . it will move now so taking to garage for new pads . cheers@@thpxs0554

It may bleed itself if you fill it very slowly. Best to fill it up and see if the heater is getting warm after a few minutes, do that before you fit the plastic trim over the matrix. You can feel it getting hot with your hand. If it doesn’t get hot then you have air in the heater and you’ll have to get it out. At 7:17 you can see how I got the air out. But usually they just fill ok. If you get a whooshing noise when you start it up then you e got air in it even if it’s getting warm.

@@thpxs0554 nice one bud

Hi, I can’t remember for sure but I think it’s either torx T25 or T27. You can buy them as a screwdriver or as swappable bits in in a set. They’re dead cheap. Or you can often use a straight screwdriver and it’ll get them out. Thanks for the comment .

Merci pour votre gentil commentaire. J’espere que cela vous a aide