We are a family that cosplays together. We all have our role to play in the selection and creation of each cosplay, while the kids (mostly Courtney) is the model 99.9% of the time. We are also available for commissions. For more cosplay goodness visit our website at Cosplay4UsAll.com. You can also "Like" us at Facebook.com/Cosplay4UsAll
Thanks for the tutorial! I'm not planning on any cosplay, but rather dyeing some of those giant UTZ cheeseball containers yellow and turning them into lego-man-head-themed storage containers for legos pieces. Was wondering if they could still be transparent, so as to see what's in them, and it looks like they can indeed be made so. 👍
Not sure about the specific one that they used in the video, but you can get metal wash basins as Home Depot. You could maybe also use a metal trash can (although the height may lead to faster water cooling). Seeing them in person might help with finding the right size. You could even take a sample piece with you to make sure it will fit.
Thank you so much for this. It's the best video of its kind on the internet. I am dyeing a protogen visor for my child's halloween costume tomorrow. I know I can get Rit DyeMore graphite locally. Unfortunately there don't seem to be any local vendors of iDye Poly in black. What issues are people reporting with Rit? Also, my first attempt to do this failed last night... the visor deformed and curled up. I note that yours remained perfectly formed. I assume this happened because I was heating the dye pot directly and failed to remove the pot from the burner. (I shut off the burner, but the residual heat from the coil probably made the water near the bottom of the pot too warm?) I plan to re-try this tonight with a new visor. Do you have any advice for me to keep the visor from curling and get the best possible results with Rit dyemore liquid dye?
I can't comment on the Rit dye. The only thing I know is that the idye poly is formulated specifically for plastics (ie polyester etc). As for the deforming, sounds like you definitely had the great too high! Make sure you get the water high, as the dye directions state, but then you MUST cool it down before putting in the visor. So remove from the great source and allow to cEool to right below the deformation temp of the plastic you're using (you can Google it, if it's not PETG). Let it soak but be sure to keep swishing it around or you'll likely get dye spots on the plastic. Good luck and Happy Halloween 🎃!
after you cut those pieces out of petg sheets , are you able to do anything with the remaining petg that you cut away? Trying to figure out how to reuse it or whatever.
@@Cosplay4usall I just happened to see a video of a 5 x 5 inch dental vacuum former for creating a form of 3d scanned teeth. Maybe a nearby dentist wants to try it instead of throwing it out.
@@Cosplay4usall I might try nailing the petg strips to the inside of my shed's posts too because I have seen mice climbing wood when I open the door. I don't think they can climb smooth plastic nailed to the beams.
No we haven't. I know some people have attempted it, using this method, but I don't know the results. I'd imagine you'd need a higher temp water, since the malleable point of plex is likely higher than PETG.
Great video! If dying a clear piece of plastic with an Orange dye, will the soak/rinsing/repeat method cause that plastic to turn more of an opaque Orange or will remain transparent no matter how many times you soak it?
You could leave it, just don't let it sit still for long or the dye might leave splotches of uneven color. Just swish, swish, swish. We often rinsed and resoaked because we needed to warm up the water (which activates the dye and opens the pores of the plastic) and to check the color progress.
Hello! What would be the best approach for giving a petg domed lens a slightly chrome finish? My friend tried the "spray chrome in the inner surface" method, but due to the increase of humidity in the mask, when he touched the lenses he accidentally wiped off the paint. My friend recommended me to simply spray the front of those back lenses (think of the build as outer PETG lenses and inner painted PETG lenses with a fabric mesh sandwiched in between), but from my understanding the shiny effect only appears on the opposite side of where you've sprayed, while the sprayed surface retains some visibility. I was thinking of using a chrome dye for a pot (if those even exist), or to apply a clear antifog film like the ones used for mirrors in the inner surface of the sprayed lens, if that won't ruin the way the chrome reflects. What do you think? What dye type should i be looking for? Because i might even try to paint the petg white.
Hello! You seem very knowledgeable, and I require help making this tunic, except that the fabric I have is 15" wide Japanese kimono fabric. I am trying to produce as little waste as possible. I already understand how to pleat the fabric, and I realize I need to sew lengths of cloth selvedge to selvedge to get my desired width...but it is the yoke that is stumping me. I do have a reproduction tunic based off the original but I would really hate to pick it apart to examine the construction for fear that I would not be able to put it back together! Would you kindly DM me so that I could ask my questions without the trouble of an overly long comment thread? Thank you in advance!
Another effective trick is if you have smaller light yellowish white nylon plastic parts that you want solid black, just get a container and use 100% acetone and add a tone of the iDye Poly and maybe heat it up by using hot water and well ventilation and that works the best.
As long as it's not got a safety coating on the acrylic, it should work. Find out the deformation temperature for the acrylic you're using, and make the water just a bit cooler when you dye it.
@@Cosplay4usall clarify "safety coating." And I don't know if I'll be able to find out the deformation temperature; it's for a totally different type of product. But, it says it's "impact resistant," and appears to be fairly thick, so I don't think it would deform under heat easily. But I figure if I stay within the 140º range, like you guys used, it 𝘴𝘩𝘰𝘶𝘭𝘥 be fine. *crosses fingers*
@@JustASouthernGuy79 safety coating like what you might find on a visor for a motorcycle helmet, or safety glasses. If it has a coating on it, the dye can't penetrate the plastic. I would start at the 140 degrees and if it's not working, add some hotter water and get the temp up a bit. If it looks like the dye is being repelled from the plastic (it's not taking color and/or appears to just bead off) then it has a safety coating and you won't be able to dye it.
Bro why tf is everyone so damn rude it legit doesn’t matter what gender you are, what race you are, it doesn’t just let them do them… There’s an actual female pyramid head. I swear some people are so fucking brain dead
Thanks so much for the video, I was looking all over for information on dying PETG. What type of plastic polish do you use? I can't find info on that online.
@@Cosplay4usall I just went to the page and the download links for the Noble Six armor are no longer available ... you don't know if their creator has saved them or uploaded them to some other site ... I also want to do it :"(
Grommets should not have been used. Finishing the holes by hand would have been the method.Box pleats should come together and buttress against one another, there was no walking slit as the primary piece was a solid. Otherwise, nice work.
Thanks! To glue the pieces of foam together, we used CA (aka Super Glue). In other places (like the lights) we used hot glue. Some builders also use contact cement.
@Cosplay4UsAll Cool video. I read in the comments that RU-vid took your sound away. Bummer! If you would be so kind to update your title or description to collectively over time, save the world years of time checking their settings. :D
