My name is Phil, and I love sharing what I know with you all! I take it apart so you don't have to! =)
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It's the link capacitor. As the inverter switches there are large current pulses, this acts like a local reservoir because there is substantial inductance in the battery loop, so the current just isn't there when it's needed. It's likely a polypropylene film capacitor, not electrolytic, it should last the life of the car. See: industrial.panasonic.com/ww/products-pt/automotive-film-cap/custom-made-xEV
They say that in EU and China V2L is possible , but not in North America ? What is the difference? I remember your video of inverter and the fact that inverter only could convert DC to AC in one direction. Do you know if EU inverters are different. Elon said that in EU and China they only needed to do at software update to fix V2L. Any idea
They say that in EU and China V2L is possible , but not in North America ? What is the difference? I remember your video of inverter and the fact that inverter only could convert DC to AC in one direction. Do you know if EU inverters are different. Elon said that in EU and China they only needed to do at software update to fix V2L. Any idea
It's possible in all Teslas, but will require an expensive external DC to AC inverter. (Subject to Tesla's will). No Tesla model except the Cybertruck can export AC natively. Period. This may change in the future, but as of today (October 2024), the hardware is definitely not capable of generating AC. All Tesla models, even the Cybertruck state in the vehicle warranty that using the vehicle for stationary storage voids your battery warranty. So even if you hack it in as I have done, you risk losing your battery warranty. (I have salvage vehicles, so my warranty is already void)
They say that in EU and China V2L is possible , but not in North America ? What is the difference? I remember your video of inverter and the fact that inverter only could convert DC to AC in one direction. Do you know if EU inverters are different. Elon said that in EU and China they only needed to do at software update to fix V2L. Any idea ?
It's possible in all Teslas, but will require an expensive external DC to AC inverter. (Subject to Tesla's will). No Tesla model except the Cybertruck can export AC natively. Period. This may change in the future, but as of today (October 2024), the hardware is definitely not capable of generating AC. All Tesla models, even the Cybertruck state in the vehicle warranty that using the vehicle for stationary storage voids your battery warranty. So even if you hack it in as I have done, you risk losing your battery warranty. (I have salvage vehicles, so my warranty is already void)
Yes, but you need a ToolBox3 subscription to program the immobilizer (rear only) and perform the resolver calibration (both) as this information is stored in the inverter, and is unique for each drive unit. Alternatively if you are capable of board-level work, you can swap the serial EEPROM from the bad inverter and all that information will move with it. (Needs to be an identical inverter)
I appreciate the video, you’re correct. I opened 2 batteries and they didn’t get any charge. In toolbox when I try to reset the battery it says that the CONTACTORS are open. If I put a new battery it’ll also die. Do you think it would work with a 13.5V transformer? Thank you. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hello! I appreciate the video. While in toolbox, I tried resetting error codes but it says there’s insufficient power. I tried resetting the 12V battery in order to solve this issue but it says “CONTACTORS OPEN” Please help me with this issue, thank you. 🙏
This kind of diagnosis goes beyond something I can do in a casual youtube comment, please email me and I can help you diagnose the car if you like. My email can be found in my channel's "about" page under "contact". (Using a browser)
Thanks for the video. Unfortunately, I've had to replace my 12v battery twice now. Once at 3 years and again 18 months later. Tesla reps gave me no info on how to prolong the life of these batteries. I wish I new how to make it last longer. It is frustrating.
I read an article 7-8 years ago about ev and it is said that tesla is in front than other car firms 50 years ahead at least in ev car tech. but last month article says bmw passed tesla selling ev car first time . I wonder tesla power train-pover drive unit is still leader for the best engine in the market? how about bmw drive unit ? I remember also mercedes put money about 50 billion dolars to research and development dept. but I think mercedes did not success as expected thank you for video
Thanks, Great content. Of the teardowns you mentioned in this video, I would like to know if you did actually make video for the EPAS1/2 system and Valve body. My preference would be for advanced content on your channel!
No, I have not yet made any EPAS videos, and there is no valve body, it's all electromechanical. Unfortunately I don't have enough subscribership to support full-time content, so I've had to give it less priority.
Do you know how to use it to test ABS wheel speed sensors? I got a bunch of alerts that are apparently common when one is bad. Many systems were deactivated including Full Self Driving/Autopilot.
@@Ingineerix all of the wiring is good. One had questionable ohms so I replaced it but the problem persists. I still have to test one but haven't gotten around to it. All 4 are about $400.
Thanks Great Video! I am about to purchase a 2018 M3LR from private. I am taking it to a Tesla SC to check for a pre-buying inspection- what do you suggest they specifically check - BMS_029, PCS, etc. Thank you
I have vcfront_a192, vcfront_182, vcfront_a402 in my 2020 model3 (battery is 4 years old) After going into the service mode low voltage screen I don't have VCFRONT_a192, just VCFRONT_a182, VCFRONT_a402, VCFRONT_a407, and VCFRONT_a371. the 12V battery reading voltage between 12.59 to 12.62 current between -0.39 to 0.04 PCS - HV battery contractors closed - DCDC support status active voltage target: 12.63V output voltage: 12:58 to 12.60 output current: 19 - 20.20A Do I just need a new 12V or new VCFront since the HV battery contractors closed?
@@Ingineerix Thanks for the answer! My situation is very bad, and the official Tesla repair and replacement price is $3200, which is a robbery because it is not an imported product and is not worth that high price...
I have a Model 3 with a acid battery. Is it a good idea to put a charger like a ctek mxs 7.0 on it from time to time. Or is it better just to let the car take care of the battery. (im on 254.000km in 4 years. And on the org. 12v battery)
Clearly the car is doing a good job taking care of it. Adding in a charger while the car is still connected will confuse VCfront (which controls 12v charging) and is likely to cause issues. 4 years is a good run, I'd probably replace it by year 5 just to be sure, it's cheap insurance.
@@Ingineerix I did just put in a tesla service for a new battery. It is easy to switch self. but the total cost is so low, so ill just let them put a new one in. Thank for good informative videos.
This is an awesome video, man. Thanks so much for the info. I was always curious about those. I rebuild and restore older, carbureted cars. Never messed with an EV.
Great video. I have a question on pre-charge circuit. Normally there is a pre-charge relay plus an appropriately rated resistor connected in parallel to battery contactor to allow slow build up of voltage in the HV system. But in this video you mentioned that PCS with DCDC bring up the HV system slowly to Pack voltage. Is Tesla using a different approach to pre-charge compared to other EVs? Thanks
Yes, I have other videos that detail this. They started doing it on the Model 3 in 2017, now it's on all models. The DC-DC converter in the PCS that normally provides support for the 12v system is simply reversed for a few hundred microseconds, it takes 12v and boosts it back to HV pack voltage on the HV bus and that accomplishes precharge. Software only, since the DC-DC converter section has synchronous rectification for efficiency anyway. No precharge relay or resistor to fail, so lower cost and more reliability!
Has Tesla ever upgraded the software on the lead acid battery BMS? I heard a rumor there was an upgrade in 2022? so batteries after that should last longer.
They have updated the charging code many times, but the main improvement in 2022 was refinement of sleep. Now the cars sleep faster and stay asleep longer with less 12v battery discharge, so less cycling.
Hello from Sweden! I don't know if you are able to help me a bit but I hope you can give me some guidance maybe 🙂 My Tesla model S p85 (2013-14) just started acting up and I'm going to try to make this as short as I can but still give as much information I can🙂 It started last week when I drove 150 miles straight and pulled up to a supercharger and it charged fine at +-120kw to full and after it was "fully charged" at ~ 95% I returned to the car but on my way I got a message in my app that the car couldn't charge and when I tried to start the car it wouldn't let me drive and it blocked the charging port. Got toed to a dealer and the car drove it self of the tow truck..the dealer change the 12v battery that had a date on it ( 12-06-04 ) and the car was fine for another 2.30 hour drive but died again as soon as I left the car... called the dealer and he told me to pull the 12v for a while and I did this several times but the car still wouldn't go in drive or charge... called a new tow truck and when he came and tried to put the car in drive it did and it charged fine...🤷🏼♂️ he recommended me to keep going to my destination due to the late hour and I did.. Drove the car 4-5 times and charged two times at our hotel there and 3 days later we drove home but the car still died 2 times on the way home and every time I disconnected the 12v battery and it took 1-2 hours with that every time before the car jumped into life again.. Have driven the car 5 days after that but 3 days again I took the car and drove for 2min but forgot something at home and drove back and when I got back to the car it didn't let me drive away yet again... did notice my fans in the front run at almost max when I hade the door open so I let the car be for 5-10 min and I could drive away... I get the same error messages every time ( BMS_w036_sw_HVIL / BMS_f008_HW_HVIL )
The 2013's have a problem with the HV connectors on the DC-DC converter lose their HVIL or it becomes intermittent. Chose those first, sometimes it can also be the pack rapidmates (either HV or data) becoming loose.
@@Ingineerix will check it this weekend... when I take it in the morning to work at it sat all night it drives just fine and after 8 hours of work it works too... it's "cold" in the morning " 16c degrees " and it sits in the shadow at work "22c degrees " but when I come home at it sits 5 min into the sun the car won't drive and it shows no temp in the dash and the AC shuts off after 2-4 min... if I wait 5-10 min it usually starts and I can drive away 🤷🏼♂️the fans always got on to full in the front for a while so I'm thinking maybe I have a temp sensors fault maybe? Or is it that some connector may flex when it gets hot
BONJOUR j ai acheté un tesla pour faire un proto !! ou je compte me servir des unités avant arriere !! de tesla modele 3 !! ce computer n est plus la !!!volé Puis je monter un autre d occasion? EST T' IL INDISPENSABLE POUR FAIRE ROULER LA 🤔🤠VOITURE !!merci beaucoup charlie de france!!
L'ordinateur est associé au numéro VIN de la voiture, vous ne pouvez donc pas simplement utiliser celui d'une autre voiture. Le plus gros problème est que le contrôleur de sécurité verra le nouveau numéro VIN et vous ne pourrez alors pas obtenir l'autorisation de démarrer la voiture. Seule Tesla peut remplacer correctement un ordinateur de bord.
@@Ingineerix a oui ok mais alors pourquoi cette piece est dispo dans des sites (ovoko) par exemple ? Et serais t il possible de le faire modifier par vous?
@@lambo723 Désolé, je ne peux pas encore faire les ordinateurs AMD. Seul Tesla peut en remarier un. Vous pouvez en acheter d'occasion toute la journée, mais ils ne peuvent pas être utilisés dans une autre voiture. Si vous regardez combien sont réellement vendus, ils ne se vendent tout simplement pas.
@@Ingineerix - I would love to hear your thoughts on the 2024 Model 3 Performance 4D2 units leaking oil. My 2 week old '24 M3P (US version) with less than 370 miles on it is leaking fluid. It appears to be coming from the drive shaft seals. I also have a very strong odor from the car that smells like sulfur or "rotten eggs". I'm not sure that smell is related to any gearbox fluids. I have service scheduled in 3 weeks.
I just had this clock spring ribbon come flying out due to me forgetting to disconnect the plug before removing the steering wheel. Insane length and I’m unsure if I’m going to be able to spool it back in correctly. What an absolute headache I’ve made for myself.
A guy selling a 2014 model s rwd needing ine of these with 130k. Car wont start. Is it worth it? What am i looking at if i get a used on or rebuild the one in it?
Model S will not need a Model 3 drive unit. I'm happy to consult and give you an estimate on what it would take to fix, drop me a direct email, contact info is in my channel's "about" tab. (From a full browser)
Hey Phil I have a question for you unrelated to this video but I don't know how else to contact you. My question is regarding a DC battery and a superconductor. As the goal of the electrons is to move from either side of the seperator, like cathode to anode or anode to cathode, and we use a circuit to create a load along the way, what if you connected a superconductor between positive and negative terminals on a battery? Would the electrons immediately populate the anode from cathode (or vice versa) and the battery would then be discharged? As the superconductor has no resistance therefore no heat, would we see a fireworks display or not? Thanks, Simon
If you are getting a CHG_f012_hwFastChargeDriver code that prevents supercharging, could it be a bad bms board chip signal to the FC contactors? The code is - The fast charger FC contactor drive circuit has shorted to ground while the contactors are requesting to be closed. Seems like it is a chip that drives the mosfet that triggers the FC contactors went bad. Changed onboard chargers on the 2013 MS85 and it charges at home perfectly fine. No other problems with the car.Thanks for this over view.
Yes, this is an internal fault on the BMS board. It's a charge pump driver, not contactors. If you were in the contactor box, it's possible you damaged something while you were in there. You'll need to use Tesla Toolbox to clone the BMS and then install a used one. I would not attempt board-level repair on this board. The FC contactors are not driven by the BMS, they are controlled by the on-board charger, they are not in the battery pack, they are in the HV JB under the back seat. The BMS code has nothing to do with these.
@@Ingineerix toolbox2.1 seems to want a CAN connection to the PT bus to clone the bms. Would using toolbox 3 be the best way to clone the bms? I can’t imagine it’s cloned through the CANbus.
Unfortunately Tesla does not allow customers to order parts online, you have to be a repair shop and sign up for a commercial account to do that. But they did make the parts catalog (minus prices) available online for free: epc.tesla.com/ Put in your VIN and you can locate any part, then take the part # and go to your nearest Tesla Service Center and they will let you buy or order it.
Thanks for these informative videos. I just had a question hopefully you can help me with. In case of replacing a HV component like pyro fuse, will it be possible to accidentally short/damage the 12V battery? And if that lead to other aux components' failures like AC system, doors,...? Thank you in advance!
If you are replacing a Pyro, the 12v battery is probably end-of-life from sitting dead. Lead-Acid batteries IMMEDIATELY begin to irreversibly sulfate when they are discharged deeply. If you have a car with a 12v battery that sat dead, just replace it! They can have shorted cells which can emit dangerous sulfuric acid fumes and even be a fire risk when the HV system is re-enabled, and the PCS tries to recharge them.
@@Ingineerix thank you very much. In the scenario that my 12V battery is nearly dead, but replaced the pyro fuse before that, would that be causing any issue with AC systems? Since after I replace the pyro fuse, my AC just stopped working along with the 12V replace battery alert popped up
@@Cathyscake Yes, it may load shed because the 12v is dead. I do not recommend you leave that bad 12v in there, in rare cases they have caught on fire, and if it vents sulfuric acid, that could cause damage.
