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Thanks for the video. Great ideas. I have found a guy to fold up a similar base here in Australia so am trying to basically replicate what you have done here. A couple of questions though. Are your bottom extrusions secured directly to the van floor? Catching glimpses, it appears to be on top of installed flooring which I can't work out why. I thought you would get more height going securing directly onto the floor and packing out to support the shower base. Also, how have you attached the bottom extrusions to the floor? Have you used rivnuts or plusnuts here as well as the roof? Finally, what holds the base in place? Is it simply the frame around it and or the extrusions bolting down through that front channel? Apologies for all the questions and I know I will have more.
Another reason to have a wet bath in a van is for car insurance purposes. It's extremely cheaper to insure a van as an RV than as a commercial vehicle, and the only way car insurance companies will do that is if the commercial van has a shower with running water.
Thanks for the video, and for showing how you do it! A) If you had the exercise of lightning the wood part of the shower build, what would you consider to do? B) do you see advantages in using PVC for the inner walls? Thanks for your insights!
Thanks for the video. Appreciated the content. Just thought that it could be like 4" more on the width so it would be easier to take a shower - but I'm just a keyboard warrior trying ti build my van. Again, thanks for the content!
Fair Warning for Mercedes Sprinters. I have a 2016 Mercedes 4-cylinder cargo and I have NONE of those connections under the driver seat. There is no auxilary conection, no bus connections, and not other way to tie into pretty much anytning. It turns out, these are optional components available only if the proper options were selected at the time of manufacture. Otherwise you pretty much have an undocumented and very difficult mess to deal with. This video was great BTW, it definitely game me ideas how to wire ignition.
This is an educational video. I have been watching George on Humble Road and he builds the boxes or modules in one. I like your use of the furring pieces. Can you give me your opinion on using PVC board such as Azek for the backer instead of the plywood. Im guessing it might not make a good finish board. Maybe it could be sealed or painted. Also is 24x36 large enough to move around? I was thinking about having a shower deeper on one end and tapered down.
I’m know I’m late to the party here, i liked the video. Do you happen to have a schematic I could follow? Ive a 2017 3ltr v6 diesel with a smart alternator using 400ah lithium leisure batteries and really found it hard to find anyone to wire up my 60amp renogy dcdc charger. Im not afraid to do it if i have a roadmap. Cheers
I just did mine and I would add. Don’t put the jack stands there before first removing the fender liner as it surrounds the jack point. Also the splined steering shaft is a real PITA to re install.
Excellent video. Are you sure you are connecting to the correct post? I've seen a MB diagram that says terminal 1 which is smaller and called terminal d+ is power with engine running and you connected to terminal 3 that is for ignition power.
Great video. About to do this in my 2013 Sprinter. What is the AMP rating of the Blue Sea breaker switch? Thanks. I have the 50A Renogy DC-DC Battery Charger with MPPT
I noticed your fire extinguisher ? If you care about your sensitive, expensive power system you need this fire extinguisher, yes more expensive but it's rechargeable , brand is hr3 performance maxout dry chemical car fire extinguisher, the extinguisher doesn't leave powder residue most people never heard of these extinguisher I have 2 in my overland builds I'm Not sponsored only Information well worth the money comes in different sizes 😊
I believe VanCompass lists the required tools in their install manual you can download. It's also good to have that on hand if following any vid install too, they play well together.
Sorry for the late reply, exactly what Jaime said all information is on the website. Also Van Compass usually includes a print out of the manual in the box when you receive your order.
I've watched many of these videos (some very scary) before coming to yours. This is one of the best I've seen. The use of a breaker under the seat is inspired. Also, I have been wondering why people haven't been using chassis ground. I was thinking there must be something that I was missing. Thank you for verifying. This will save me 50% of cabling money. I do have one question. I like to have my cables premade. Do you happen to remember the size of the stud on your positive connection?
What does that mean CCA.. As 4ga is 4ga... And the color is to identify that positive from the negative..Where Clear wire is identified as Grounding conductor..
@@WizzRacing CCA means Copper Cladded Aluminum. So Aluminum wire, with a coating of copper on it. Typically I have found most manufactures of CCA wire to insulate it in red or black clear insulation as shown in the video. CCA 4awg wire is the thickness of 4awg, but since it is an aluminum copper mix it can't transfer as much power. Typically it is half. So a 4awg CCA wire is equal to a 8awg copper wire.
@@THeChickmagnet0031 I get that but 4ga CCA is rated for 125 amps.. Only good reason to avoid it. As most people don't tighten the lugs once a year. I think most of the confusion is this is a hold over from Car Audio people..As OFC is more flexible. Less prone to oxidation.. But anybody doing this should be using Dialectic grease to start with..Unless you use all Aluminum. Then you need NLGI Grade 2 grease..
@@THeChickmagnet0031 It's a 125 amps for 4 hours or less.. And I bet you $10.00 you got the 55 amp off some car audio site. As 90amps is "Continuous use" Why you have to size the fuse to the application..
I have a sprinter and am currently in the process of installing two Victron DC to DC chargers. I am adding a thermostat that will automatically turn off the DC to DC chargers if my battery temp is too low since I do not have low temp sensing in my batteries. Have you ever included this feature and your thoughts rather than a dash switch?
